theraphosa apophysis advice

tony manning

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Jan 1, 2015
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hello i am experienced with many exotic creatures and have had tarantulas in the past. i have just purchased theraphosa apophysis sling. i have never kept slings or this type of tarantula. i am looking for this long term and i want to breed them eventually. ignoring the breeding im open to advice on them in general. il put a list below on what i will be aiming for with them but please help me with anything else. (the list is copied off many different websites and adjusted.)

Type: Burrowing South America
Diet: Spiderlings eat small crickets and other small insects/worms. Adults eat crickets, other large insects, worms and small vertebrates. This species is an excellent aggressive eater and devour its prey.
Full Grown Size: 9 to 13 inches.
Temperature: Around 22degree C
Housing: Babies can live in a clear plastic/glass container with air holes nothing to big. Adults live in a 65ltr tank+ for floor space not height. Floor space is more important than height, but height should be considered as for Substrate depth.
Temperament: Semi-aggressive, they are also more notorious for kick urticating hairs which are a very strong irritant and one of the worst in the spider world.
Humidity: 75% - 80%
Substrate: 4 to 8 inches Coco Husk 80% and Organic sterilized branded peat or top soil 20%. Husk is fine by itself but the 20% difference adds a little firmness to the substrate. Springtail or tropical woodlice help to maintain but not necessary.
Decor: No decorations are really needed. Add a log, cork bark or plant pot for burrow/hide. Some natural plants can be added. Choose carefully and make sure they have zero fertilizers/chemicals on. But not needed
Growth Rate: The growth rate for this species is medium-fast. With proper heating and feeding a spiderling may attain a leg length of four inches in a year.
Water Requirements: A water Bowl can be added, some people will say not necessary. However it adds to decoration and can benefit. But its imported to keep moisture and humidity levels up.
Comments: An aggressive eating T. They don’t normally refuse a meal unless near a molt. Probably the most defensive in the Genus. They are easy to care for an hardy. As spiderlings are pink on the legs, but after it reaches about five inches the pink disappears. On the T. stirmi only the front four legs are pink.

:cool:
 
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Formerphobe

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I've never kept apophysis, but got my first stirmi sling @ ~1.5 inch legspan in July this year. I set it up immediately in a 10 gallon tank so as to minimize frequency of rehousing. It's got an average of 7 inches of substrate (blend of topsoil, potting soil, sphagnum peat, a little coconut coir, a little vermiculite and whatever else looked like dirt that I had lying around - nothing sterilized as they don't come from sterile environments), with a covered prestart burrow, a partially buried clay pot, live plants, a culture of isopods and a shallow, widemouthed water bowl. The screen top is 95% covered with plastic wrap and I placed a heat mat on the back of one end of the tank above substrate level. Temp and humidity = warm and humid. (I don't monitor numbers.)

Initially, it moved into the clay pot. That lasted about two weeks, then it dug a shallow burrow behind the pot. After it's molt in October, it moved into the pre-start burrow, started customizing it and has been there ever since. Because of it's chronically small abdomen and voracious appetite, I initially fed it 2 - 3 times per week. It's last exuvium (12/4/14) measured 3.5 inches and the actual spider is easily 4.0 inch legspan. After 3 molts in my care, it's maintaining a comfortable abdomen size (approximately same size as carapace) and I've backed off feedings to about once a week. I plan to add an earthworm culture to the habitat.

Others on here are more knowledgeable and experienced as to care and size attainable, but word has it that 13" is a 'fish tale'. Nine to 10 inch diagonal legspan is more to be expected of an adult.
 

Poec54

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I've got stirmi, juveniles to adults. Keep Theraphosa on moist substrate with cross ventilation. They are not 'swamp dwellers.' Soggy, stagnant conditions are not good. They should have a full bowl of water at all times, and they will foul it in the most disgusting ways, so you're best advised to use disposable bowls. I use 3 oz soufflé cups for adults, bought by the sleeve from restaurant supply stores; 1 oz for juveniles, and plastic bottle caps for slings. They will not drown. The genus has little drought tolerance and slings are especially prone to dehydration. I recommend using some moist long fiber sphagnum laid on top of the substrate.

Mine get 90 degrees days in the summer with 80 degree nights; in the winter 75-80 degree days and 65-70 nights. The warmer you keep them, they more they eat and the faster they grow. If you keep them on the warm side, make sure the cage doesn't dry out. I use bagged top soil, the cheap stuff without fertilizer added. I do not use any coco substrates. Hate the stuff. Although they're frequently out, Theraphosa will use retreats.

13" has been seen on an extremely rare adult male, don't expect yours to get that big. If yours get 10", be happy with that. That's a lot of spider. Apophysis are leggier than stirmi and blondi, and have a smaller body. The hairs are not 'one of the worst', they are the worst. They burn and can last a day or more. Use sealing/masking tape to remove them, before scratching. If you're doing unobtrusive maintenance/feeding, they may not kick hairs. If they do, you won't forget the experience. When transferring cages or anything disruptive you're best advised to wear gloves, long sleeves, and eye protection. Their cages are covered in hairs, intentionally, and they can easily be stirred up, even if the spider doesn't kick any off. Some people have bad reactions to handling molts. Keep the hairs away from your face and eyes. Don't rub your eyes. I use a plastic painter's/grinder's face shield when doing cage transfers with my bigger Theraphosa. Use forceps/tweezers/tong for cage maintenance, not fingers.

You've got one of the great tarantulas. Good luck, and feel free to ask questions.
 

tony manning

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Jan 1, 2015
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yea taking notes. i have such sensitive skin as well (he says like a girl) just going in my attic with the loft insulation makes me itch for days haha. will be fun.

i understand 13" is like record stuff and believe 10" to be normal

as of water quite a few people don't use water bowls from what i have read and do fine but i will do with it. going to get a custom tank made for when its bigger as i live right near custom aquaria.

i live in a cottage in the english countryside so i need to put some effort into heating control as it gets freezing this time of year in the house. but i have the equipment for that.

sounds like i have most the info right. i ordered from tarantulas bristol. they seem trustworthy and knowledgable. never ordered online before but local shops/etc are extortionate and the do overseas aswell. one person has warned me to check i haven't spent extra money and will end up with a stirmi. apparently my sling should have all pink feet were as stirmi front 4? is this true or help to recognise. i appreciate it will be hard to tell.

thanks so far
 
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Poec54

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as of water quite a few people don't use water bowls from what i have read and do fine but i will do with it.

warned me to check i haven't spent extra money and will end up with a stirmi. apparently my sling should have all pink feet were as stirmi front 4? is this true or help to recognize.
I can't imagine not giving Theraphosa water bowls. The only people that can pull that off are very experienced with spiders. No reason for you to take the risk.

Yes, apophysis has 8 pink tarsi, stirmi has 4.
 

Formerphobe

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Even if the spider never drinks from the bowl, it contributes to the humidity in the enclosure.
 

tony manning

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Jan 1, 2015
Messages
16
thanks... my Apophysis will be 3 months old. looking into what live plants to get as well.
 
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