Tarantula Enclosure Advice

[TBite]

Glad to be here,

I'd appreciate if a few members of whom are apart of this Forum could give their opinions on the Vivexotic Repti-Home 4-Stack Vivariums
I'm considering an upgrade for my 6+ Terrestrial Tarantulas that are currently housed in 2.5-, 5 & 10+ Gallons Aquariums.

Tarantulas

1x Striped-knee (A. Seemanni)
1x Mexican Red Knee (B.Hamorii)
1x Purple Bloom (Pamphopeteus sp Machalla)
1x Brazilian Red and White (N. Chromatus)
2x True Curly Hair (T. Albopilosus)

Specifications,

Each Enclosure - 57.5 x 37.5 x 42.1 cm

Entire Stack - 57.5 x 37.5 x 176.3 cm



Questions

- Would this be sufficient footprint for each individual tarantula?

- Would this enclosure allow for a suitable amount of substrate depth?

- Would mold present an issue?

- Is this escape proof?

 

[AlbaArachnids92]

I'll start by saying I have never seen these in person but based on the link provided:

- Yes (if anything they're too large).

- I don't think it would allow enough substrate as you'd only be able to fill it to the bottom of the sliding glass. Because of the height of the enclosure, you want a good height of substrate to mitigate any potential fall damage (roughly 1.5x DLS).

- The species mentioned can handle drier substrate well so if kept fairly dry no mould problems. With it being made for reptiles (I assume) ventilation should be ok.

- If there are any gaps bigger than the Ts carapace then an escape is possible.

 

[viper69]

Sliding glass- not good for sub depth- never a good design
There is no “true” albo nor false albo.
You didn’t mention size of your Ts
Mold- no way to tell in those pics
Sliding glass likely more difficult to move than a top that lifts.

 

[TBite]

I appreciate the current replies!

My Tarantulas Sizes,

Sub Adult | Striped-knee (A. Seemanni)
Adult | Mexican Red Knee (B.Hamorii)
Juvenile | Purple Bloom (Pamphopeteus sp Machalla)
Sub Adult | Brazilian Red and White (N. Chromatus)
Sub Adult & Juvenile | Nicaragua Curly Hair (T. Albopilosus)

Hope this helps!

SlidingDoor,

I've saw this concern present in most Reptile branded enclosure (E,g Exo Terra, Zilla & Zoomed). The Depth of substrate however can be aided by sloping substrate, which in return achieves the outcome of a more natural looking Vivarium.

 

[Dorifto]

Would this be sufficient footprint for each individual tarantula?

Yes, but you need to configure them correctly, giving enough hidint places, covers... etc.

Would this enclosure allow for a suitable amount of substrate depth?

It doesn't look ideal.

Would mold present an issue?

If that's plywood, I'd be concerned more by the stack itself. Your Ts need moisture, and wood loves to absorb it.

Is this escape proof?

From the picture, we can't tell you. If there is any gap bigger than the carapace, then No.


My recomendation being from Europe, get some glass enclosures and a good rack shelf.

 

[kingshockey]

sliding doors wont allow enough depth for atleast 2 of the ts you want to keep to burrow and the gap might allow space for crickets to get loose into your home which wont make thw wife happy at all if your married but for sure i would use those to house small reptiles in

 

[TBite]

I appreciate all the current replies & concerns.

Currently I believe we have narrowed down the following key concerns and questions,

Concerns

• Question/Concern 1 - Sliding Doors (E,g Flexibility in regards to substrate depth.)

• Question/Concern 2 - Materials used (E,g Quality & Durability.)

Answers

• Question/Concern 1 - In relations to substrate depth flexibility, I personally don't see a cause for concern after comparing multiple successful glass enclosures (E,g Exo Terra, Custom Glass Enclosure, Zoomed & Acrylic Enclosures)

If we are to compare with Exo Terra, there is roughly 4-5" (Inches of substrate depth)



If we are to compare with Custom Glass Enclosures, there is roughly the same 3-6" (Inches of substrate depth)



Whereas Modern VivExotic Repti Home provides indistinguishably similar matching amount of substrate depth. Which in-itself could always be altered to provide more as previously mentioned.



• Question/Concern 2 - In relations to materials used (E,g Quality & Durability.) Vivexotic Wood (Timber) is made from high-quality wood, the Vivexotic Repti-Home keeps your reptile’s environment well insulated with its 15mm wood boards designed to maintain the warmth produced.



Reality:







(Not Advised for Burrowing Reptiles) (Reptile care ≠ Invert Care)



The reality is, I would say from reviewing the product that the beneficial aspects from this product quite substantially outweigh the negatives & concerns that have been mentioned in detail. In relations to the concerns, they can be altered & put right fortunately. Which may not be possible with other products.

(Edited to include more relevant information)

 

[Dorifto]

Question/Concern 2 - In relations to materials used (E,g Quality & Durability.) Vivexotic Wood (Timber) is made from high-quality wood, the Vivexotic Repti-Home keeps your reptile’s environment well insulated with its 15mm wood boards designed to maintain the warmth produced.

Forget about the warmth and start thinking about moisture...

Do not believe those beautiful word gimnicks, wood will expand under moisture, and with expansion the tolerancea will change, creating gaps... Not mentioning mold and that the wood will start rotting.

Sliding doors, here you have two issues all together. Free height and ventilation. If the ventilation was on front like in my enclosures, there is no issue, you can build your enclosures to the back, creating like slope alike or two stage enclosure, the front ventilation deters the T from climbing the glass, along with a good setup. Those racks, I'm pretty sure that they only have a little hole for ventilation purposes, one, not being enough, and two it won't deter them from climbing the front glass. And here you have a big issue, the total height. If the T climbs and falls, bye bye.

So, those enclosures are SUITABLE for Ts?
NO

You can KEEP them inside, yes you can, but it's far from ideal.

 

[Dorifto]

The reality is, I would say from reviewing the product that the beneficial aspects from this product quite substantially outweigh the negatives & concerns. In relations to the concerns, they can be altered & put right fortunately. Which may not be possible with other products.

The reallity is that you are wrong, sorry.

The only way to make them work it's modding them substantially.

 

[l4nsky]

The only time I would consider wood as a suitable material for an enclosure of any size is if I built it myself and can ensure it is properly sealed or there is no way moisture can make contact with the wood. I've modified old particleboard display cases into reptile enclosures that have lasted over a decade. Anyone who's ever worked with that material knows that it's basically like the plywood version of a sponge and will soak up any moisture it stays in contact with. I wouldn't ever even think about buying a particleboard enclosure. Anyways, I digress.

For me, wood is a big negative right off the bat from a longevity standpoint. Sliding doors is another con IMO, especially sliding doors that will be at substrate level. Sure, there is the problem of the gap between them. If the tarantula has any size, it won't be able to turn and get through the gap but I can almost guarantee any feeders you offer will be able to (the enclosure also appears to have vent ventilation and cord access you'll also have to deal with). Still though, that's an easy fix using some adhesive weathergap strips in the space between the doors.

My main problem with sliding doors is substrate getting in the rails and making it difficult to open or close the enclosure. This is GREATLY amplified in an enclosure where the rails are at substrate level. Some of the tarantulas you listed will burrow extensively. Odds are, all that burrow spoil will be sent down hill and pile up in the rails of the sliding doors. You'll have to either make a substrate dam to keep it from falling into the rails (which has it's own problems) or deal with the semi-consistent maintenance needed.

Finally, the major con for me and the reason I would go another route is there is only one side to view from. Tarantulas are secretive by nature and you can't always be 100% sure a specimen will be out and on display. Being able to view the enclosure from different angles offers more options to be able to non-invasively check up on and see your specimens. You're likely not going to be able to check the status of a molt or potentially an eggsack in a tarantula's burrow in this enclosure.

IMO, the enclosures themselves are aesthetically pleasing and I'm sure many herp keepers use them with great success. Truth is though, they're not designed with invertebrates in mind and unlike other enclosures designed for herps (ex ZooMed, Exo Terra), these would require more extensive modifications to get them setup and you'll still never be able to reliably check up on the tarantula unless it's out in the open.

 

[TBite]

Thank you all for contributing to this discussion and advice!

To be honest, I'm not familiar within the field of wood & durability; which is why I agree with the following statement mentioned above.

The fact is, I believe I've been confusing Reptile & Arachnid care & after reading the latest two comments & the issue of wood has been brought up, I cannot claim otherwise. Quite frankly wood has been one of my main worries & concerns in relations to this product asides Substrate Depth & Quality Materials.

Is it possible to seal it?

Likewise as mentioned, I'm not familiar within the field of sealing and healing wood. However even if this is possible, after hearing the importance & maintenance of wood, would not be in the position to do extra work for a matter in question which is quite frankly serious, and If done, it should be done correctly.

Re-Housing

In regards to rehousing, I will continue to research a more suitable and appropriate method. As I believe this is the correct thing to do.

Thank you once again to all thread participants!

 

[Moyzie]

I got one of these today.... taking on board what has been said here.

I am going to seal it to make it watertight using safe sealant There vents at the back are not enough for my liking. So I will be adding vents on both left and right. Im also going to put a container under the soil on one side, under where i will put the water dish. The overflow of the waterdish can make the surrounding soil wet, on occasions. But any water going downwards will be enclosed within the water trap

It is my desire to build a hide / cave on side, potentially using pots / rocks / wood - natural looking and functional. Sloping with over deep at the back and shalllow at the front. Potentially different substrate towards the front to minimize fixes/ Tempted to maybe use stones and sand at the very front for an inch or so and blend this into a more traditional mix. This would surely reflect nature, but at this point its just an idea. Something i have not researched or looked into. Its just something that I do in aquariums and was thinking a similar approach could rectify the soil in the sliding doors issue .

Anyway, I got it for free, new. Maybe its not the best idea, time will tell.
If it turns out to be a worse idea than making radioactive toothpaste in the 1940s, then I can use it for something else. On other hand it could end up being centre piece

 

[Moyzie]

I got one of these today.... taking on board what has been said here.

I am going to seal it to make it watertight using safe sealant There vents at the back are not enough for my liking. So I will be adding vents on both left and right. Im also going to put a container under the soil on one side, under where i will put the water dish. The overflow of the waterdish can make the surrounding soil wet, on occasions. But any water going downwards will be enclosed within the water trap

It is my desire to build a hide / cave on side, potentially using pots / rocks / wood - natural looking and functional. Sloping with over deep at the back and shalllow at the front. Potentially different substrate towards the front to minimize fixes/ Tempted to maybe use stones and sand at the very front for an inch or so and blend this into a more traditional mix. This would surely reflect nature, but at this point its just an idea. Something i have not researched or looked into. Its just something that I do in aquariums and was thinking a similar approach could rectify the soil in the sliding doors issue .

Anyway, I got it for free, new. Maybe its not the best idea, time will tell.
If it turns out to be a worse idea than making radioactive toothpaste in the 1940s, then I can use it for something else. On other hand it could end up being centre piece

My one is black, so looks more T worthy