Stained Glass Biotope Builds

wist

Arachnopeon
Joined
May 18, 2024
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10
My pet projects are building a matching set of vivariums for my Cyriocosmus sp. I used stained glass for the backing and perforated metal sheet for ventilation. The first terrarium took me forever to make, between having bad tools, winter setting in (my 'workshop' is a table in my breezeway), and simply making mistakes as I learned. Once it's in its final position, I'll be installing a puck light on the wall to backlight the piece. Dimensions are 6"x6x"9".

The first, pictured here, is planted to replicate a Trinidad biotope and will house my Cyriocosmus elegans. It's planted with: Psygmorchis pusila, Peperomia serpens, P. rotundifolia, P. emarginella, Selaginella diffusa, S. kraussiana, generic tropical moss, and a NOID Gesneriad from a different Caribbean island, a freebie from the guy I got most of my plants from. I'll be adding springtails shortly and once I'm sure that the plants are established, I'll introduce the tarantula. Springtails will be a non-native species on account that I find the Neanura growae to be very charming and orange, but I've got a source for native isopods should I decide to add any (Nagurus cristatus). The hardscape is made from locally foraged trumpet vine branches glued together, with micaceous rock I had on hand for the stair step/eroded hillside look.

The second is a work in progress but will house a Cyriocosmus sp. tambopata and will be a Peruvian biotope with plants native to the Tambopata/Madre de Dios region. I'm looking at planting a Specklinia picta, Marcgravia sp. (possibly mini limon?), Peperomia rotundifolia, P. serpens, and more selaginella.

I primarily used iNaturalist to get a feel for what plants could be found in the locales the spiders have been seen in, as well as using photos as a base for what the general terrain looks like. Even got into studying what kind of soil certain areas of Trinidad were composed of and while I scrapped that level of reproduction, I learned that geology texts are practically written in another language. The locales I researched contain "clayey over loami, semiactive isothermic Aquic Haplustepts" soil, if anyone is interested... duckterrarium-1.png duckterrarium-2.png duckterrarium-3.png duckterrarium-4.jpg duckterrarium-5.jpg duckterrarium-6.jpg
 
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wist

Arachnopeon
Joined
May 18, 2024
Messages
10
And not a biotope, but a naturalistic-ish set up for my Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens built in a stained glass Wardian case. The case has been used for years to grow out beetle larvae, but finally repurposed to hold the spider. It's 14"x9"x10" (dropping to 8" at the front). The lid is kept open by 1/4" silicone bumpers for ventilation. All hardscape and leaves were locally foraged. Twinkleberry keeps herself tucked behind the bark in the upper left most of the time but has been steadily webbing up that corner. Should I rehouse her as she gets bigger, I'll be increasing the height for sure as she's been an active climber here. twinkleberry.jpg twinkleberry3.jpg twinkleberry-wardiancase1.jpg twinkleberry-wardiancase2.jpg
 
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fcat

Arachnoangel
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Jan 1, 2023
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880
This is your second post here and this is what you post?????

This is absolutely stunning. Lucky Ts

You posted more while I was writing this. Dopamine thief!!! But thank you for the high this morning :)
 

wist

Arachnopeon
Joined
May 18, 2024
Messages
10
Eyyyy, gotta start somewhere and all of my slings are burrowed in right now, so~

Glad the builds got a smile for you. I can't stop looking at them here! The goal with these was to build something functional for the spiders but beautiful to look at when they aren't on display (or are too small to inhabit them yet, as will be the case with the tambopata), and so far I've achieved that. Twinkleberry's enclosure was uninhabited for months while I lolligagged on fixing the lid, but it's been so pretty empty too!
 

fcat

Arachnoangel
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Eyyyy, gotta start somewhere and all of my slings are burrowed in right now, so~

Glad the builds got a smile for you. I can't stop looking at them here! The goal with these was to build something functional for the spiders but beautiful to look at when they aren't on display (or are too small to inhabit them yet, as will be the case with the tambopata), and so far I've achieved that. Twinkleberry's enclosure was uninhabited for months while I lolligagged on fixing the lid, but it's been so pretty empty too!
Edit your post and make them full size, those thumbnails are criminal
 

wist

Arachnopeon
Joined
May 18, 2024
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10
Can you not see them when you click on the images?
 

Kada

Arachnobaron
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May 17, 2023
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That looks amazing! What a fantastic idea, especially for background glass. I cna see this becoming a thing now amongst those that make their own enclosures. Well done :)
 

Glorfindel

Arachnoknight
Active Member
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Feb 15, 2024
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249
Beautiful Glasswork Enclosures along with Nice Interior Arrangement.
 
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IntermittentSygnal

Arachnotic
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Is there ventilation at the substrate level so that there is air exchange for the T? How do you keep the steel from rusting? Your glasswork is very beautiful indeed, but would any of the chemicals used in producing it affect the T?
 

wist

Arachnopeon
Joined
May 18, 2024
Messages
10
There's 1.5" screen going across the top of the enclosure, but nothing at the bottom save for whatever can seep through the door. It's far more than what the Tarantula Cribs enclosures provides. If there's a necessity for substrate-level ventilation, this is honestly the first time I'm hearing about it. The majority of enclosures I've seen don't provide it and I've not seen recommendations for it. With this tank in particular, I do want higher moisture for the plants as well as max visibility. With the way I've made this, I could place screen on the side but the way I scaped it doesn't really allow for a good substrate-level vent on account of such a steep gradient in the substrate that I've got going on. A better alternative might be setting screen in the lower door or the front catch piece, like an Exo-Terra, but that would more readily compromise integrity of the door. Anyway, just spitballing ideas at this point -- extra ventilation is entirely possible on future builds.

There's no steel in here so nothing rusts. Everything is washed very thoroughly before any substrate is added and based on my experience with the big blue Wardian case, which I've kept stock with various inverts for a few years (notably no spiders however), I've got little reason to believe that the solder will effect the T. It could but at this point, I don't know.

I'm planning on making custom enclosures for my Citharacanthus slings when they get bigger but at this point the plan is to swap to silicone and wood. A little lot cheaper to make, especially on a larger scale.
 
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IntermittentSygnal

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There's 1.5" screen going across the top of the enclosure, but nothing at the bottom save for whatever can seep through the door. It's far more than what the Tarantula Cribs enclosures provides. If there's a necessity for substrate-level ventilation, this is honestly the first time I'm hearing about it. The majority of enclosures I've seen don't provide it and I've not seen recommendations for it. With this tank in particular, I do want higher moisture for the plants as well as max visibility. With the way I've made this, I could place screen on the side but the way I scaped it doesn't really allow for a good substrate-level vent on account of such a steep gradient in the substrate that I've got going on. A better alternative might be setting screen in the lower door or the front catch piece, like an Exo-Terra, but that would more readily compromise integrity of the door. Anyway, just spitballing ideas at this point -- extra ventilation is entirely possible on future builds.

There's no steel in here so nothing rusts. Everything is washed very thoroughly before any substrate is added and based on my experience with the big blue Wardian case, which I've kept stock with various inverts for a few years (notably no spiders however), I've got little reason to believe that the solder will effect the T. It could but at this point, I don't know.

I'm planning on making custom enclosures for my Citharacanthus slings when they get bigger but at this point the plan is to swap to silicone and wood. A little lot cheaper to make, especially on a larger scale.
T-cribs do have side ventilation as well as top, although I add substrate level as well (my main complaint about his). These conversations are frequent on this site. Top only ventilation doesn’t allow for air movement, like the chimney effect that top and bottom vents do. The European glass terrariums, we in the states all wish we could get our hands on, have the same top wire perforated section, but they also have one at substrate level as well. As you noted, the ExoTerras many use here also have a substrate vent bar. Especially with moisture, not having that low vent is going to create stuffy, stagnant air that could cause your T’s demise, as well as create a haven for mold.
I am not versed in solder so can’t speak on its components, but a layer of aquarium silicone on the inside wouldn’t affect that beautiful contrast on the outside.
Your build is very beautiful and with a couple important tweaks, will be a really great home for your T.
 

wist

Arachnopeon
Joined
May 18, 2024
Messages
10
There is no issue with stagnant air here, believe me. The screen covers 1.5"x6", providing far more ventilation than something like T-cribs, which also does not provide substrate-level vents. In comparison, the holes in standard acrylic enclosures are very small and would require significant draft to cause any truly meaningful airflow. I can't compare to Exo-Terra as I've never handled one, except to say that I don't have a massive bar across my terrarium blocking the view, haha. As it is, I am misting this enclosure daily while the plants are establishing themselves and every bit of water on the walls is evaporated within a few hours; it's almost too dry in places. In contrast, a plants-only, closed glass terrarium I made has miniscule slits all the way around where the lid doesn't sit quite flush; I misted it yesterday and there is still significant water droplets on the walls. In the acrylic enclosures I've got with 'cross-ventilation' holes drilled all the way around in several rows, I get more evaporation but nothing comparable to the stained glass enclosure -- and while ventilation is likely a concern with these that should be addressed, I've never had mold despite them all being planted to some degree and everyone seems to be thriving so far.

Should airflow ever be an issue, there is a little wiggle room in the door where I can put a couple silicone bumpers to provide an additional 6"x ~1/4" vent. All that to say -- I understand the concern, but it's not needed with this particular enclosure!

I can see the benefit in adding a narrow, secondary vent at the front but that won't be happening with this enclosure. I'm planning larger, drier naturalistic set ups in the future and will be considering additional vents for those, however.
 

Arachno32

Arachnopeon
Joined
Dec 5, 2019
Messages
20
T-cribs do have side ventilation as well as top, although I add substrate level as well (my main complaint about his). These conversations are frequent on this site. Top only ventilation doesn’t allow for air movement, like the chimney effect that top and bottom vents do. The European glass terrariums, we in the states all wish we could get our hands on, have the same top wire perforated section, but they also have one at substrate level as well. As you noted, the ExoTerras many use here also have a substrate vent bar. Especially with moisture, not having that low vent is going to create stuffy, stagnant air that could cause your T’s demise, as well as create a haven for mold.
I am not versed in solder so can’t speak on its components, but a layer of aquarium silicone on the inside wouldn’t affect that beautiful contrast on the outside.
Your build is very beautiful and with a couple important tweaks, will be a really great home for your T.
Its a myth that Ts need cross ventilation, barring some species like Avics. You just need to provide a greater area of ventilation when using top only ventilation to avoid stagnant air and mold.
 

Brewser

RebAraneae
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Myth ?, Real ?, Falsehood ?, Truth ?

i kinda like good airflow
 
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IntermittentSygnal

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Not cross ventilation..
“The stack effect or chimney effect is the movement of air into and out of buildings through unsealed openings,<cut> or other containers, resulting from air buoyancy. Buoyancy occurs due to a difference in indoor-to-outdoor air density resulting from temperature and moisture differences. The result is either a positive or negative buoyancy force.<cut> The stack effect helps drive natural ventilation, air infiltration <cut>”
From Wikipedia

T-cribs Treehouse arboreal enclosures have substrate level ventilation.
 

Introvertebrate

Arachnoprince
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Dec 18, 2010
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1,265
...................I've got little reason to believe that the solder will effect the T. It could but at this point, I don't know....................
I like your enclosures and I'd like to try your stained glass technique myself sometime. If I were soldering individual glass panels together, I would use 60/40 solder, because it's the easiest to work with. 60/40 is 40% lead. I wonder if there's any possibility of the lead leaching into the substrate. @HooahArmy is our resident "impurities" export. HooahArmy, what do you think? Could the lead effect our Ts? Maybe just if it leaches into the water bowl?
 
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