Pls help me my spider won't eat

[Joldenra]

Ever since I got my t (a little over 2 years ago) I have been feeding him crickets. The crickets are fed with vitamin rich gelatin and high calcium cricket diet which is like crushed up cereal for crickets. My t has been doing fine until a couple months ago, he seems to have been way less interested in the joy of hunting the annoying jumpers. Allot of the times I put crickets in his cage they sit there for weeks often disturbing my sleep until they eventually die of dehydration or starvation. I've been tracking my ts interactions with them and around 90-94% of them are the crickets brush up agenst his feet and he raises them and maybe a takes a set or to back until the crickets walks away and he rest he feet back down. There is allot more cricket caucuses in his cage and he rarely eats. Tbh I dunno how he is still alive. He has molted only 2 times since I've had him. He started to do this on his last molt which was a long time ago, like 6 or seven months. I'm not sure if its because he is getting old or because ive been giving him the same food for years. I was thinking of giving him worms but they would burrow into the floor and he would never find them. I will provide a picture of his cage (yes I know that it's dirty but he absolutely hate even the slightest change in his cage) sorry for the book I wrote it's that it would rlly upset me for him to die.

 

[Andrea82]

Ever since I got my t (a little over 2 years ago) I have been feeding him crickets. The crickets are fed with vitamin rich gelatin and high calcium cricket diet which is like crushed up cereal for crickets. My t has been doing fine until a couple months ago, he seems to have been way less interested in the joy of hunting the annoying jumpers. Allot of the times I put crickets in his cage they sit there for weeks often disturbing my sleep until they eventually die of dehydration or starvation. I've been tracking my ts interactions with them and around 90-94% of them are the crickets brush up agenst his feet and he raises them and maybe a takes a set or to back until the crickets walks away and he rest he feet back down. There is allot more cricket caucuses in his cage and he rarely eats. Tbh I dunno how he is still alive. He has molted only 2 times since I've had him. He started to do this on his last molt which was a long time ago, like 6 or seven months. I'm not sure if its because he is getting old or because ive been giving him the same food for years. I was thinking of giving him worms but they would burrow into the floor and he would never find them. I will provide a picture of his cage (yes I know that it's dirty but he absolutely hate even the slightest change in his cage) sorry for the book I wrote it's that it would rlly upset me for him to die.

Sounds a lot like the male matured, can you post pictures of the pedipalps and first pair of legs?

 

[Joldenra]

Sounds a lot like the male matured, can you post pictures of the pedipalps and first pair of legs?

I think he is quite old I'm not entirely sure but I cannot handle him for every time I do he goes into hyper defence mode and attacks my fingers the people before him never handled him and it would cause too much stress to try to teach him to be nice now. Ill wait until he is at a good angle then i will try.

 

[arachnidgill]

Wow, there's a lot wrong with how you're feeding it. First off what species is it and how big? From the size in the picture you should probably only be offering 1 cricket a week. If not eaten within 24 hours it should be removed. Dead or live crickets should not be left in the enclosure for extended periods of time. Welcome to the boards, you're in the right place now.

Tarantulas do not get used to being handled nor are they recommended o be handled.

 

[Joldenra]

Wow, there's a lot wrong with how you're feeding it. First off what species is it and how big? From the size in the picture you should probably only be offering 1 cricket a week. If not eaten within 24 hours it should be removed. Dead or live crickets should not be left in the enclosure for extended periods of time. Welcome to the boards, you're in the right place now.

Thanks Dood but why can't live crickets stay for longer than a day, bacteria?

Wow, there's a lot wrong with how you're feeding it. First off what species is it and how big? From the size in the picture you should probably only be offering 1 cricket a week. If not eaten within 24 hours it should be removed. Dead or live crickets should not be left in the enclosure for extended periods of time. Welcome to the boards, you're in the right place now.

It is a chilean rose tarantula and it's about the size of my palm

 

[Greasylake]

Thanks Dood but why can't live crickets stay for longer than a day, bacteria

They disturb the spider and if they haven't been eaten after a day the spider most likely isn't going to eat it. Crickets will also eat a molting tarantula.

It is a chilean rose tarantula and it's about the size of my

Can you post a picture of just the spider? It looks pretty chunky so I have a feeling it's just eaten enough that it's not hungry anymore. These guys have super slow metabolisms, the slowest of any tarantula really, and they do just fine being fed once every two weeks. Also, is that heat lamp always on your enclosure? It needs to go right away as it can cause your tarantula to dehydrate and die.

 

[arachnidgill]

It is a chilean rose tarantula and it's about the size of my palm

For the future, tarantula size is refered to as diagonal leg span (DLS) and is measured in inches. Comparing it to hand size can be confusing as everyone has different sized hands.

Also, is that heat lamp always on your enclosure? It needs to go right away as it can cause your tarantula to dehydrate and die.

Yes I didn't notice that before, a heat lamp is not needed. T's do fine at room temperature, the heat lamp will only dehydrate your T faster and possibly even cook him. Also I would add more substrate to your enclosure, there should only be approximately 1.5 times the DLS between the substrate and the top of the enclosure to avoid injuries from falling. What kind of lid is on the tank? If it's mesh that will need addressing as well.

 

[spookyvibes]

My t has been doing fine until a couple months ago, he seems to have been way less interested in the joy of hunting the annoying jumpers.

Judging by the size of your tarantula’s abdomen, that definitely could be a sign of premolt which can last anywhere from a few days to quite a few months.

Allot of the times I put crickets in his cage they sit there for weeks often disturbing my sleep until they eventually die of dehydration or starvation.

Disturbing your sleep? Imagine, if you’re the one being disturbed, try switching places with your tarantula, who has to deal with those crickets 24/7 until they die of dehydration/starvation.

I've been tracking my ts interactions with them and around 90-94% of them are the crickets brush up agenst his feet and he raises them and maybe a takes a set or to back until the crickets walks away and he rest he feet back down.

That would indicate that he doesn’t want to eat right now, in that case you should take out the crickets instead of leaving them so long that they die. It’s no different than getting a yogurt for someone, them saying they’re not hungry, and you putting back the yogurt before it spoils.

There is allot more cricket caucuses in his cage and he rarely eats.

Then take the carcasses out?

Tbh I dunno how he is still alive.

Tarantulas, especially the species you have, can go months without eating. Mine when a full year without eating, I think I’ve even heard of one fasting for two years. Though I do have to say, with how he’s being cared for right now, I’m surprised too.

I'm not sure if its because he is getting old or because ive been giving him the same food for years

Neither, he’s probably nearing a molt or is just fasting, as this species is known to do. Unless he’s a hooked out male, he’s probably not dying of old age.

yes I know that it's dirty but he absolutely hate even the slightest change in his cage

No excuse. How he is living right now is neglectful. I cannot imagine how awful that terrarium must smell due to the crickets. Would you put a dog in a kennel and let the flooring of the kennel become caked with rotting food? Would you buy a fish and dump the entire canister of food into the water, causing the water to become discolored and smelly? I’m not saying the terrarium has to be spotless, but at least clean it to the point of being habitable. Take that poor tarantula out, get some new substrate, fill up the terrarium until there’s an appropriate amount of height (let’s say you have a 5” tarantula, an appropriate amount of height from the lid to the sub would be that x1.5, so 7.5”), provide a hide, get rid of the heat lamp, and get yourself a pair of snake feeding tongs while you’re at it, that way you can safely pick out any dead crickets to avoid letting the terrarium become that messy ever again.

Honestly, Grammostola rosea/porteri/sp. North/whichever one you have doesn't need to eat that often. Once a month is more than enough. Trying to constantly feed a tarantula that isn’t hungry is stressful for the tarantula and is not even necessary. As I said, my G. porteri went a whole year not eating. She then molted and went one more month before deciding to eat again. Also, as others have said, if your tarantula decides to molt, those crickets will not only disturb him, but also may eat him.

 

[AnimalNewbie]

There could be a lot of reasons for one it's G. Porteri which is one of the most boring spiders with possibly the slowest metabolism out of all other spiders being able to fast for up to a year or more. It could be the way your keeping it with a light constantly on it and with moss even though they like it dry and there's not enough substrate. It could have possibly matured into a mature male too show a pic of the spider

 

[Joldenra]

They disturb the spider and if they haven't been eaten after a day the spider most likely isn't going to eat it. Crickets will also eat a molting tarantula.

Can you post a picture of just the spider? It looks pretty chunky so I have a feeling it's just eaten enough that it's not hungry anymore. These guys have super slow metabolisms, the slowest of any tarantula really, and they do just fine being fed once every two weeks. Also, is that heat lamp always on your enclosure? It needs to go right away as it can cause your tarantula to dehydrate and die.

Thanks for the help I have learns that he is jjust older and I dont need to put as much crickets in there as I used to and no the lamp is not always on I just turned it on for the picture

Judging by the size of your tarantula’s abdomen, that definitely could be a sign of premolt which can last anywhere from a few days to quite a few months.

Disturbing your sleep? Imagine, if you’re the one being disturbed, try switching places with your tarantula, who has to deal with those crickets 24/7 until they die of dehydration/starvation.

That would indicate that he doesn’t want to eat right now, in that case you should take out the crickets instead of leaving them so long that they die. It’s no different than getting a yogurt for someone, them saying they’re not hungry, and you putting back the yogurt before it spoils.

Then take the carcasses out?

Tarantulas, especially the species you have, can go months without eating. Mine when a full year without eating, I think I’ve even heard of one fasting for two years. Though I do have to say, with how he’s being cared for right now, I’m surprised too.

Neither, he’s probably nearing a molt or is just fasting, as this species is known to do. Unless he’s a hooked out male, he’s probably not dying of old age.

No excuse. How he is living right now is neglectful. I cannot imagine how awful that terrarium must smell due to the crickets. Would you put a dog in a kennel and let the flooring of the kennel become caked with rotting food? Would you buy a fish and dump the entire canister of food into the water, causing the water to become discolored and smelly? I’m not saying the terrarium has to be spotless, but at least clean it to the point of being habitable. Take that poor tarantula out, get some new substrate, fill up the terrarium until there’s an appropriate amount of height (let’s say you have a 5” tarantula, an appropriate amount of height from the lid to the sub would be that x1.5, so 7.5”), provide a hide, get rid of the heat lamp, and get yourself a pair of snake feeding tongs while you’re at it, that way you can safely pick out any dead crickets to avoid letting the terrarium become that messy ever again.

Honestly, Grammostola rosea/porteri/sp. North/whichever one you have doesn't need to eat that often. Once a month is more than enough. Trying to constantly feed a tarantula that isn’t hungry is stressful for the tarantula and is not even necessary. As I said, my G. porteri went a whole year not eating. She then molted and went one more month before deciding to eat again. Also, as others have said, if your tarantula decides to molt, those crickets will not only disturb him, but also may eat him.

I have solved most of these problems and have given my spider a whole cage clean up. I realize now he doesn't eat as much as when he was growing up. And pls don't be as mean, I understand ur trying to help and what I'm doing is wrong and I have fixed it but it make me not want to come back here. Thanks for the help u have been the most informative

For the future, tarantula size is refered to as diagonal leg span (DLS) and is measured in inches. Comparing it to hand size can be confusing as everyone has different sized hands.


Yes I didn't notice that before, a heat lamp is not needed. T's do fine at room temperature, the heat lamp will only dehydrate your T faster and possibly even cook him. Also I would add more substrate to your enclosure, there should only be approximately 1.5 times the DLS between the substrate and the top of the enclosure to avoid injuries from falling. What kind of lid is on the tank? If it's mesh that will need addressing as well.

The lamp is not always on just for the picture. Here is an image of the roof, it's made of metal.

Judging by the size of your tarantula’s abdomen, that definitely could be a sign of premolt which can last anywhere from a few days to quite a few months.
Disturbing your sleep? Imagine, if you’re the one being disturbed, try switching places with your tarantula, who has to deal with those crickets 24/7 until they die of dehydration/starvation.

That would indicate that he doesn’t want to eat right now, in that case you should take out the crickets instead of leaving them so long that they die. It’s no different than getting a yogurt for someone, them saying they’re not hungry, and you putting back the yogurt before it spoils.

Then take the carcasses out?

Tarantulas, especially the species you have, can go months without eating. Mine when a full year without eating, I think I’ve even heard of one fasting for two years. Though I do have to say, with how he’s being cared for right now, I’m surprised too.

Neither, he’s probably nearing a molt or is just fasting, as this species is known to do. Unless he’s a hooked out male, he’s probably not dying of old age.

No excuse. How he is living right now is neglectful. I cannot imagine how awful that terrarium must smell due to the crickets. Would you put a dog in a kennel and let the flooring of the kennel become caked with rotting food? Would you buy a fish and dump the entire canister of food into the water, causing the water to become discolored and smelly? I’m not saying the terrarium has to be spotless, but at least clean it to the point of being habitable. Take that poor tarantula out, get some new substrate, fill up the terrarium until there’s an appropriate amount of height (let’s say you have a 5” tarantula, an appropriate amount of height from the lid to the sub would be that x1.5, so 7.5”), provide a hide, get rid of the heat lamp, and get yourself a pair of snake feeding tongs while you’re at it, that way you can safely pick out any dead crickets to avoid letting the terrarium become that messy ever again.

Honestly, Grammostola rosea/porteri/sp. North/whichever one you have doesn't need to eat that often. Once a month is more than enough. Trying to constantly feed a tarantula that isn’t hungry is stressful for the tarantula and is not even necessary. As I said, my G. porteri went a whole year not eating. She then molted and went one more month before deciding to eat again. Also, as others have said, if your tarantula decides to molt, those crickets will not only disturb him, but also may eat him.

Since u appear to know the most about this then for the future how do I get rid of the live crickets if he doesn't eat them.I do not want them all over my house. What do I do after they are out? let them free? keep them for later feeding? I'm sorry if I sound retarded I have just lost most of my knowledge since I got him this is the first time I've rlly been on forums for anything and u guys have taught me allot thanks

What kind of solid should I use for his cage and how many inches tall should it be. U guys should know

 

[AnimalNewbie]

You pick them out with tongs and then you can do whatever you want with them. The substrate should be tall enough that there is a 1.5 legspan of the spiders space between the spider and the top of the enclosure. What do you mean solid and if there are other crickets in there don't throw more in.

 

[spookyvibes]

I have solved most of these problems and have given my spider a whole cage clean up. I realize now he doesn't eat as much as when he was growing up. And pls don't be as mean, I understand ur trying to help and what I'm doing is wrong and I have fixed it but it make me not want to come back here. Thanks for the help u have been the most informative

I’m really not trying to be mean, I’m sorry if I came off that way I guess I may have gotten a bit too preachy in my post. Thank you for cleaning the enclosure, I’m sure your tarantula appreciates it.

The lamp is not always on just for the picture. Here is an image of the roof, it's made of metal.

Metal screens like that can be a danger for terrestrial tarantulas (like yours), they can actually get their claws caught on the screen and rip a leg or two off. If you can find a piece of acrylic, cut it to size, and drill some holes in it, that would eliminate that danger.

Since u appear to know the most about this then for the future how do I get rid of the live crickets if he doesn't eat them.I do not want them all over my house. What do I do after they are out? let them free? keep them for later feeding? I'm sorry if I sound retarded I have just lost most of my knowledge since I got him this is the first time I've rlly been on forums for anything and u guys have taught me allot thanks

I wouldn’t say I’m the most knowledgeable by any means, but any feeders that aren’t eaten can be saved for future feedings, but with a species like G. porteri/rosea, that may not be ideal since they don’t eat that often and crickets don’t last that long. An easy solution would be get another tarantula or two so you can give them the excess crickets, but I don’t know how ideal that would be for you. You could always get a feeder that lasts longer, like superworms or mealworms (not sure how big your tarantula is though, so I’m not sure if meal worms would be too small.)

What kind of solid should I use for his cage and how many inches tall should it be. U guys should know

You can use whatever you want as long as it doesn’t have pesticides or any other chemicals like that. Coco fiber and plain top soil are popular options. How many inches tall depends on how tall the enclosure is and how big the tarantula is.

 

[InvertAddiction]

I cringed reading your post and the picture was awful Here's a legit question.... did you do ANY research on caring for these before you got the poor thing? This just goes to show exactly how hardy this species is. I very seriously hope you take everyone's advice and USE IT!

 

[Joldenra]

I’m really not trying to be mean, I’m sorry if I came off that way I guess I may have gotten a bit too preachy in my post. Thank you for cleaning the enclosure, I’m sure your tarantula appreciates it.

Metal screens like that can be a danger for terrestrial tarantulas (like yours), they can actually get their claws caught on the screen and rip a leg or two off. If you can find a piece of acrylic, cut it to size, and drill some holes in it, that would eliminate that danger.

I wouldn’t say I’m the most knowledgeable by any means, but any feeders that aren’t eaten can be saved for future feedings, but with a species like G. porteri/rosea, that may not be ideal since they don’t eat that often and crickets don’t last that long. An easy solution would be get another tarantula or two so you can give them the excess crickets, but I don’t know how ideal that would be for you. You could always get a feeder that lasts longer, like superworms or mealworms (not sure how big your tarantula is though, so I’m not sure if meal worms would be too small.)

You can use whatever you want as long as it doesn’t have pesticides or any other chemicals like that. Coco fiber and plain top soil are popular options. How many inches tall depends on how tall the enclosure is and how big the tarantula is.

Thanks u have been a great help keep doing what you do

 

[boina]

That little spider looks fat - as in FAT . It's not a mature male @Andrea82, as mature males don't get that fat. And I very much doubt it is old, either, since - you guessed it - very old spiders don't eat well and don't get that fat either . G. rosea and related easily get 30 years old.

I don't think you need to feed him/her for the next 6 month (I'm serious), which should take care of the cricket problem for the forseeable future, too.

 

[Joldenra]

That little spider looks fat - as in FAT . It's not a mature male @Andrea82, as mature males don't get that fat. And I very much doubt it is old, either, since - you guessed it - very old spiders don't eat well and don't get that fat either . G. rosea and related easily get 30 years old.

I don't think you need to feed him/her for the next 6 month (I'm serious), which should take care of the cricket problem for the forseeable future, too.

I prob won't not feed him for six months but I definitely will feed him far less than I did

 

[cold blood]

The crickets are fed with vitamin rich gelatin and high calcium cricket diet which is like crushed up cereal for crickets

This is unnecessary. They do not have the same requirements that reptiles do...those suppliments are geared towards reptiles. Just drop in a piece of dog or cat kibble and a piece of carrot.


For the record, one or two large crickets per month is more than sufficient (15 would pretty much be a years worth of food for an adult). The more you feed, the sooner it will plump, and with a long cycle, this means a lot of fasting after it gets its fill.....there is no reason to plump them quickly. When plumped they can easily go a year or more without food.

very old spiders don't eat well and don't get that fat either

Where did you get this? Even an old t, will be just as ravenous after a molt that a young t will be. And they certainly can and do get just as fat.

My porteri is well over 30 years old, gets plenty plump and when eating, is just as motivated by food as she was 20 years ago.

 

[boina]

Where did you get this? Even an old t, will be just as ravenous after a molt that a young t will be. And they certainly can and do get just as fat.

My porteri is well over 30 years old, gets plenty plump and when eating, is just as motivated by food as she was 20 years ago.

I can't remember who told me that. I've heard it somewhere, looked at both my elderly Brachys (emilia and auratum) who don't get fat, and concluded it must be true. That was rather unscientific of me, I have to admit that, since my sample is rather small .