Is this still the record for AGM?

RoachGirlRen

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It is preferable, particularly when they are young, that they can eat the adults' frass, yes. However, I think the CBing of giant millis would have ended long ago if they needed it until maturity; most are sold pretty young and seem to fair OK. So, I'm thinking as long as they were able to eat some to establish gut flora when young, it shouldn't be an issue. I would suspect that feeding leaf mulch will help you success, plenty of beneficial bacteria found in that plus great for a developing exo.
 

Travis K

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I don't think I can get ahold of Oak leaves, but I have plenty organic maple leaves. Is maple OK?
 

RoachGirlRen

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Hmm. Oak would really be preferable, much more chitinous. I would seek as wide a variety of dried hardwood leaves as you are able (from a safe, pesticide-free location) as well as some hard wood from downed trees.
 

Travis K

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Hmm. Oak would really be preferable, much more chitinous. I would seek as wide a variety of dried hardwood leaves as you are able (from a safe, pesticide-free location) as well as some hard wood from downed trees.
Maple is a hard wood, and we(humans) drink its boiled down sap. Does any one definitively know if Maple is OK or not?

I was planing on mixing peat and Aspen chips, and actually adding a small amount of ground aspen like 1 tsp.

Also to prevent mites I was thinking of having some isopods in with them. Is that a good idea.

And yeah still wondering if that record still holds?

so many :confused: questions:? ,
 

RoachGirlRen

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I am aware that maple is a hard wood, and I am aware of maple products. I was suggesting that you feed more than one species of hardwood leaf if possible for variety. They WILL eat maple, but it isn't the same as oak because of the difference in chitin content. And chitin is very important to young 'pedes. So, if you can somehow obtain oak mulch, it may be preferable, but it surely won't be harmful to have maple in the tank. Aspen is an acceptable wood to include in the tank as well; if you can wing peat, aspen, and leaf mulch you should be pretty solid. Just aim for more peat and leaf litter than aspen if possible so they can burrow with ease.

Isopods are OK to have in with 'pedes, yes. As long as you remove old food (ie. when you feed non-leaf foods) promptly you shouldn't have too many issues with mites though.

No idea about the record though, sorry.
 
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Comatose

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RoachGirlRen

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Originally posted @ Ultimatebettas.com. I may be prejudiced since I wrote it, but I'd like to think it's a reasonably good care sheet; I did my best research-wise and have a number of happy, healthy, breeding 'pedes who can vouch for it.

Giant African Millipede
Archispirlostreptus gigas


Basic Info
Common Name(s): Giant African Millipede, Giant African Black Millipede
Scientific Name: Archispirostreptus spp, Scaphiostreptus spp. Typically, Archispirostreptus gigas
Description: A 8-12" millipede with a segmented tubular body and two sets of legs per segment. Body coloration is black with 200-300 rubicund legs. The eyes are compound and located to the anterior of the antennae, which are used for sub-terranian navigation and possess special sensory organs known as Tömösváry organs. The mandibles are weak and designed for the desiccation of rotting plant matter. Breathing pores called spiracles may be visible on the lateral surface of each segment. Male millipedes have a specially modified set of grasping legs at their seventh segment which are typicaly kept tucked to the body. This aside, the genders are identical in appearance.
Lifespan: 5-15 years, 7-10 average.
Range: Western Africa
Habitat: Sub-terranian burrows in tropical forests/sub-tropical forests
Diet: Detrivorous; decaying plant matter is the primary source of nutrition
Reproductive Habits: Giant African Millipedes reach sexual maturity at two years of age, at which point they become prolific breeders providing their living conditions are appropriate. The male attracts a mate with pheromones, then grasps the female with specially modified legs during mating, transferring sperm. The female is oviparous, creating a tunnel lined with dung in the soil in which she lays her eggs. The speed of hatching depends on temperature but averages three weeks. Neonates are only three segments in length and white. They grow rapidly, developing new segments with each shed. Over time, they develop the black coloration of adults.
Conservation Status: Stable/Non-Threatened
Captive Bred/Wild Caught: Both

Captive Care
Housing: The minimum tank or bin size for a fully grown Giant African Millipede is 20" length by 10" width - in other words, no less than double the millipede's length in at least one dimension. Floor space is more important than height, particularly if multiple millipedes are to be housed communally (they are a social species, so this is fine). However, enough depth must be provided for at least 3-4" of substrate - more if possible. The lid should have weights or clamps to prevent the millipedes from escaping (they will readily push the lids off of unlatched containers), and should be at least partially covered as opposed to screened to maintain appropriate humidity. No lighting is necessary, and is in fact discouraged as this species is sensitive to light and prefers dark/nocturnal living conditions.
Temperature: 75-85*F (24-30*C). Never lower than 70 or higher than 90. If using a heating pad, place on the SIDE of the tank, not the bottom; millipedes burrow to cool themselves, and will overheat trying to escape the warmth.
Humidity: High; 75-85% It is best to keep one side very damp and one lightly moistened to create a humidity gradient that the millipede can traverse to its comfort.
Substrate: At least three inches of moisture-holding particulate such as organic potting soil, coco fiber, peat, or leaf mulch is essential to permit burrowing and prevent dehydration. Many keepers use a combination of several of the above, with soil or coco fiber beneath a layer of peat or leaf mulch. The moist bedding often results in small, harmless springtail infestations, and may need to be dried or baked periodically (obviously with 'pedes removed) to prevent mite infestations.
Décor: Millipedes have minimal need for décor as they spend much of their time below the soil. However, they do prefer a place to escape light, so a large wooden hide is preferable. You may also wish to provide rotting hardwood logs (frozen or baked prior to placement in the tank to kill pest insects and bacteria) for nourishment and enrichment. Avoid soft woods, as many contain insecticidal oils. Also avoid any rocks that are not rooted to the floor of the aquarium, as many a tunneling millipede has been crushed by rocks placed atop the substrate.
Diet: Millipedes are detrivores, consuming rotting plant and at times animal matter in their natural habitat. In captivity, detritus must still be provided; dead, naturally fallen oak and other hardwood leaves offer essential chitin and beneficial digestive bacteria (though all leaves should be thoroughly rinsed to dislodge pest insects). Rotting hard wood serves a similar purpose. However, because captivity lacks the variety of nature, it is best to supplement this diet with an abundance of dark leafy green vegetables such as spinach, kale, collared greens, and romaine lettuce. Fruits and vegetables may also be offered, preferably on the verge of spoiling; over-ripe berries, apple, banana, and carrots are favorites. Finally, all food should be lightly dusted with reptile calcium at least weekly to promote a strong, healthy exoskeleton. PLEASE NOTE: All matter fed to millipedes should be thoroughly rinsed to prevent the accidental ingestion of pesticides. Fruits and cucumbers should be peeled.
There is some debate regarding water sources. Because giant African millipedes lose water through their breathing pores, they require high humidity and a high moisture diet. Most millipedes will gain sufficient water from appropriately dampened substrate and moistened food items. However, water can also be provided to mature specimens in the form of a shallow water dish or gel water source. Both are potential drowning hazards for neonates, however.
Breeding: In appropriate conditions with both genders present, breeding is inevitable. There is no particular science to encouraging mating; merely provide a high quality diet, appropriate living conditions, and plenty of darkness. See the above "Reproductive Habits" for details on mating. If you wish to breed, you should purchase millipedes from a reputable breeder who can sex your stock for you; breeders who do not know the difference probably also do not know enough to maintain high quality millipedes!
Health & Illness: As with all wild animals, millipedes often do not show signs of illness until it is too late. Because of this, it is important to have a good understanding of healthy, normal behavior, appearance, and habits. A healthy millipede specimen should be full-bodied with smooth, undamaged, firmly connected segments, most of its legs and both of its antennae intact, with a healthy shine and dark color to the exoskeleton. The only mites present should be large, fast moving, reddish-brown commensal mites that clean debris from the legs.
Millipedes with gaps between the segments or a soft, discolored exoskeleton are suffering from a severe and typically fatal case of hypocalcaemia. A dull or dry exoskeleton is an earmark of dehydration, as is remaining coiled on the surface constantly with minimal movement (a mechanism to retain water).* Small, slower-moving gray, black, or white mites may be parasitic. A complete absence of commensal mites does not necessarily suggest poor health, as we do not yet have a full understanding of the interaction between mite and host, but most specimens observed in the wild DO possess these "helper mites."
A healthy millipede should be active and responsive, particularly at night. It is normal for them to remain coiled when resting, or buried in the substrate when molting, but millipedes who are exceedingly lethargic may be ill. Furthermore, a millipede should react quickly to stimuli such as light and touch; a millipede who does not react to handling, a sudden bright light, or misting may very well be ill. Low temperatures and old age are another potential culprit.
The feces of a properly fed Giant African Millipede should be a well-formed, fibrous, soil-like pellet. Runny feces may indicate inadequate chitin and fiber in the diet, or an over-abundance of watery foods and fruit. The one exception is the foul smelling, highly acidic, watery discharge emitted when a millipede is frightened. This excrement is specifically designed to deter predators and is nothing to worry about.
*PLEASE NOTE: When shedding, the millipede will curl up tightly below the soil and exhibit changes in exo coloration. This is normal and the animal should not be disturbed.
Other Considerations: While millipede ownership is among the simplest of the invertebrate world, there is some chance of an allergic reaction to the noxious acidic secretion from the pores of a spooked or threatened millipedes. The average individual only develops a slight discoloration of the skin if not rinsed promptly, but sensitive individuals may have hives, burning, itching, and in some extreme cases may even become ill.
Helpful Links:
Arachnoboards
Bug Nation
 

Comatose

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:clap: Bravo...excellent care sheet!

Where do you guys usually get your oak leaves? Do you also provide bits of mulch?
 

Travis K

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Roachgirlren,

Thanks so very much for all that info and the really nice pic also.:)

Cheers,
 

RoachGirlRen

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Comatose, I get my leaves from a local state park, but really any outdoors area that is away from chemical spraying and vehicle run-off is generally safe.
 

Comatose

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So does that generally mean any leaf from a tree that isn't pine (I'm in MA)?
 

RoachGirlRen

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Some good info on hardwood trees and how to ID them can be found here. Do note that prior to natural drying, some species may have insecticidal properties, so be sure to collect only naturally fallen leaves. Oak should still be predominant as this is the best source of chitin; there are several species of oak to select from.
 

Matt K

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They dont need leaves, but they are helpful. I have now 4 generations with only the occasional leaves added and they are fine. They eat almost exclusively fresh fruit and vegetables. I have one generation that I reared with no adults in a clean enclosure, and they are fine- so the frass thing is not necessary.

If you want the most accurate and up-to-date information, go here:

http://www.angelfire.com/oh3/elytraandantenna/index.html#roaches

and order this:

Book available now!
Giant Millipedes- The Enthusiast's Handbook
Breeding manual for giant round millipedes and more.
44pp. +2 color plates. Paperback.
Author: O. McMonigle
$14.00

If you follow the book accurately, you will have millipedes practically coming out of your ears.

** Next, yes that is the current record in size forthe species. 15.2 inches.

** Last- you can find oak leaves in every state in America, though some states have differing varieties of oak trees.
 

RoachGirlRen

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Interesting info - thanks for sharing, and for the link to the book; I've heard very good things about it. Out of curiosity, do you feed all of your 'pedes like that, or just the Giant Africans? I ask because I keep a few species and have found that the Africans are the only ones that readily accept fresh foods for me. If you feed all sp. like that, may I ask what types of fruit/veg you feed?

As far as feeding leaves/not feeding leaves - To each their own, I suppose; much of the invert hobby is based on personal experience, and for every person that says one thing worked, another will say the opposite did (as exemplified in this thread!). Personally, I don't see much of a reason to not feed leaf mulch and wood to a detritivore if it is available (actually if you have a reason, I'd love to know for the sake of curiosity as this is the first I've really heard of it!). But, if it works for you, it's certainly valuable info for the community to know that multiple ways of rearing are available for this species. :)
 
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