Harpactira Pulchripes - Questions and Discussion About Keeping This Fascinating OW Species

Sauga Bound

Arachnopeon
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I posted some pictures of my H. Pulchripes on this board recently and replies from other H. Pulchripes keepers made me realize just how useful it would be to have a thread where keepers of this species could share and discuss their experiences, because I've done extensive research and found very little from keepers documenting their experiences of caring for these increasingly popular spiders. I'd love to know the opinions of those who keep them, but there are some specific areas of inquiry I'd really like keepers to share, so that we can learn from each other and not just count on a few big names to tell us more general information in an article or YouTube video.

I started this series of questions after talking to a couple keepers who offered a portrait of a spider that was completely fossorial and had to be fed pre-killed to get it to eat reliably, while mine is more of a terrestrial webber, and a third poster shared a great shot of their girl showing of her teeth while waving with both hands, lol.

I noted that the photo highlighted the defensive traits of H. Pulchripes, which contrasts with the common "very chill" description I've heard from plenty of keepers. Besides their disposition and temperament, I also became interested in the split between fossorial vs. terrestrial webber behavior. These three cases brought together specimens along the spectrum from more defensive to more relaxed and more fossorial vs. more terrestrial. I think all of them have the potential to be spicy OW specimens under the right circumstances, but individuals seem to lean more towards one temperament than the other.

I know the photo of the H. Pulchripes in a threat display could have just been a chance pose or temper tantrum, so I want to know from keepers if theirs is spicy or mild. What behaviors have helped your form this opinion? What about those keepers who have fossorial recluses and those whose specimens are more of a terrestrial webber that is out and on display most of the time? The correlation of this data could help determine if individuals who prefer to live underground are more defensive than those that are terrestrial, vice versa, or a roughly equal mix. For example, are most terrestrial webbers more relaxed while tunnelers are more defensive? Is it the other way around, or is temperament completely unrelated to how they live and there are just as many spicy ones who prefer the fossorial existence as there are spicy terrestrials who web a lot. Also, what kinds of situations are likely to make a specimen defensive? Is it just luck of the draw or does enclosure play a role? Because I bought my H. Pulchripes very early in my tarantula keeping, I have encountered other keepers who have regaled me with horror stories, and at least as many who have echoed my own feelings about my girl, Azula - that they are a relaxed species that is to be respected, but is not nearly as defensive as an OBT.

I've come to learn that this species is a relative newcomer on the scene, who has been in North America about a decade or so, was pretty highly priced here for a while, but whose price has fallen to average during and after COVID, as NA breeders got their hands on them and increased the supply. Nonetheless, I have a hard time finding much information about these spiders from actual keepers outside some of the more prominent figures in the hobby, a few of which I've mentioned. Still, I see this species listed in the inventory of most North American breeders and sellers, but have been able to find so little discussion of their traits and husbandry by keepers on the web. Since they are like an OBT in that they can be fossorial or more like a GBB, defensive or pretty relaxed, I'm really excited to know what determines this preference and temperament.

What I find especially interesting is the utter lack of bite reports. One thing I have not encountered in my research is more than a single anecdotal account of a bite by this species, and it was communicated second-hand. Otherwise, I haven't been able to find a single story of someone's experience getting bitten by this species. That leaves me to believe bites are highly underreported, but knowing how much spider keepers like to share information about bites, I have to assume that very few people are actually being bitten. Is this just my impression or have other owners observed the same thing? Anyone been bitten by theirs?

Anyways, I'd really love to continue the discussion here among keepers of H. Pulchripes regarding your experiences. Like, how long have you had the specimen, how old are they, how big were they when you first got them, what was your enclosure design, did they act more fossorial or terrestrial, is their temperament relaxed or defensive, what and how do you mainly feed them? I'd really love to hear about anything noteworthy people have observed in their husbandry, like how long their specimen typically goes into premolt for, do they disappear to molt and resurface a few weeks later, or do you not know because yours spends all its time underground? What's their feeding response like and are they good hunters? What made you acquire this species in the first place? Did you have more than a year of experience keeping Ts before your acquired this OW species? If, like me, you bought it just a few months into your Tarantula-keeping journey, what made you think you'd be able to handle it or were you anxious about that? Was their temperament what you expected, more relaxed, or more defensive?

Anyhow, I'd really love to find a place to collect and discuss this species and create an excellent resource for keepers and researchers, because I think there simply isn't enough specific, practical information out there about them. I look forward to the two members who originally shared their experiences with me in my photo thread to contribute here, and for any other H. Pulcripes keepers - past or present - to answer as many of the questions I posed as possible, or add any other interesting information about your experience to this thread.

Thank-you to everyone who participates in this discussion. It will be excellent for our own learning and becoming better keepers, but it will also create a valuable resource that everyone who googles the species will see when they consider acquiring a specimen or already has one and wants to know about the experiences of other keepers. Ideally, this discussion can continue for years as new keepers and contributors add information about their experiences until this becomes the most thorough and useful collection of information about the Blue-Legged Golden Baboon.

Sauga
 
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cold blood

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Cool species, quite beautiful....but care is no different than any baboon. Not particularly heavy webbers....typical OW speed and venom. Not a particularly difficult t to keep.
 

Requiem4aSpleen

Arachnoknight
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That picture can be corrected in a different setup.

Baboons like cover, shrubbery, a nice hide slanted into the ground. They can then decide whether they want to use the hide as more of a terrestrial "shaded" hide. Or create a burrow with the hide being the entrance. Given 2 options like that with some foliage at the base is all you really need minus a water dish and 4-5" of sub. You could do with less if you have a good hide.

Harpactira spend time underground and above ground. They all web.

Keep it dry.

From my experience Harpactira don't spook as easily as a Pterinochilus. They also aren't as bolty.

Premolt they will just burrow in and seal the entrance and you won't see them.
 

Sauga Bound

Arachnopeon
Joined
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Cool species, quite beautiful....but care is no different than any baboon. Not particularly heavy webbers....typical OW speed and venom. Not a particularly difficult t to keep.
Thanks for your post. If you keep one, would you be willing to answer a few of the questions I listed in the OP? Because, from my research, it doesn't seem to be like other baboons, and that information is only useful to someone with significant experience keeping various baboon species. For example, it's officially classified as fossorial, but seems to enjoy living terrestrially or even semi-arboreally (to avoid controversy, I'll say Terrestrial + like Tom Moran does when describing terrestrial or even fossorial spiders like the GBB and OBT who will web up their enclosures if they are given fake plants and other anchor points.) I'm curious to know about specimens that are more fossorial, terrestrial, and everything else.

In this way, the H. Pulchripes is a lot like the OBT, which has a similar spectrum of possible living arrangements. I'm trying to find out if a particular specimen is more partial to, say, fossorial over terrestrial due to an innate preference or if the choice can be shaped by how the enclosure is set up. For example, I set mine up to live terrestrially and web up the enclosure, which she did. However, I wonder if an enclosure with only a couple inches between the top of the substrate and the lid, combined with few fake plants and anchor points for webbing and an insufficient hide encourages specimens to burrow instead. Can these tendencies be encouraged/discouraged according to how the spider is kept?

Also interesting about this species is temperament. I have heard everything from them being great first OW's and the chillest of the baboons to them being not much different than other baboons - less defensive than OBT's, for the most part, but not as chill as any NW species. I'd like to know the kind of temperaments various keepers have experienced and what they find makes their specimen defensive vs. what they find keeps them relaxed when doing enclosure maintenance. Why are there so few bite reports for the species compared to other baboon species?

I appreciate your contribution, but I'm hoping to get more detailed replies, addressing specific aspects of their husbandry. If someone does not have experience keeping baboons previously, the advice that they are about the same as other baboons to keep isn't very informative. This is important because the species is becoming such a popular first OW.

So yeah, I'd love for you to break down your experience keeping them if you're up for it. If not, no worries. Thanks for your contribution.

That picture can be corrected in a different setup.

Baboons like cover, shrubbery, a nice hide slanted into the ground. They can then decide whether they want to use the hide as more of a terrestrial "shaded" hide. Or create a burrow with the hide being the entrance. Given 2 options like that with some foliage at the base is all you really need minus a water dish and 4-5" of sub. You could do with less if you have a good hide.

Harpactira spend time underground and above ground. They all web.

Keep it dry.

From my experience Harpactira don't spook as easily as a Pterinochilus. They also aren't as bolty.

Premolt they will just burrow in and seal the entrance and you won't see them.
This is a very useful observation which suggests that how one sets up their enclosure can play an important role in how fossorial / terrestrial the specimen is. This is a question I'm eager to answer and would love to hear from keepers who have more fossorial or more terrestrial species. How did you set up your enclosure and do you think that influenced your spider's choice of living underground vs. the terrestrial + lifestyle?

Thanks for the note about their temperament relative to OBTs.
 
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cold blood

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, from my research, it doesn't seem to be like other baboons
They are like other baboons
. For example, it's officially classified as fossorial, but seems to enjoy living terrestrially or even semi-arborel
They are fossorial
semi-arboreally like a GBB
GBB is absolutely not semi arboreal, they are terrestrial.
this way, the H. Pulchripes is a lot like the OBT, which has a similar spectrum of possible living arrangements. I'm
this is just an example of being adaptable...like the obt, they can adapt to a range of conditions
I'm trying to find out if a particular specimen is more partial to, say, fossorial over terrestrial due to an innate preference or if the choice can be shaped by how the enclosure is set up.
Theyre fossorial and should be set up that way....there shouldnt be a lot of height and the same precautions should be taken as you would any fossorial or terrestrial.
However, I wonder if an enclosure without lots of headspace for the spider combined with few fake plants and anchor points for webbing and an insufficient hide encourages specimens to burrow instead.
See the above response
Can these tendencies be encouraged/discouraged according to how the spider is kept?
Sure, any adaptable species will tend to adapt to whatever they have available....but you should always give them a fossorial housing and just let them decide if they want to burrow a lot or not.
 

Requiem4aSpleen

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This is a very useful observation which suggests that how one sets up their enclosure can play an important role in how fossorial / terrestrial the specimen is. This is a question I'm eager to answer and would love to hear from keepers who have more fossorial or more terrestrial species. How did you set up your enclosure and do you think that influenced your spider's choice of living underground vs. the terrestrial + lifestyle?

Thanks for the note about their temperament relative to OBTs.
I'd say they are more opportunistic than obligate burrowers but I'm not a scientist and idc that much tbh. I just collect them and give them what they need lol
 

viper69

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I remember when they were 500$ a sling-and laughed at everyone who was crazy to pay more than 50-60$ for one
 

Sauga Bound

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I remember when they were 500$ a sling-and laughed at everyone who was crazy to pay more than 50-60$ for one
I've read about those times, when the species was new in the hobby - at least in North America. Here in Canada, where the supply is more limited, juvenile and sub-adult/adult females can still fetch prices of a couple hundred bucks if you buy from a reputed breeder. Since I first scoped mine at an exotic pet store, I only paid something like $70 for a 4" specimen. Small breeders who advertise on Kijiji and Craigslist, FB, etc. also charge less than known breeders who've been around for years, but they often have juvies for sale compared to large breeders which mostly sell slings, ime. I'm raising my first sling right now - an Avic - and I wish I could have snagged it when it was an inch bigger and past the more delicate stage in its life.
 

Ultum4Spiderz

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I remember when they were 500$ a sling-and laughed at everyone who was crazy to pay more than 50-60$ for one
I know i remember those days I couldn’t afford them . I got a $150 p Metallica sling instead and it died of dks. Despite no wc prey or anything contaminated.
 

Charliemum

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I posted some pictures of my H. Pulchripes on this board recently and replies from other H. Pulchripes keepers made me realize just how useful it would be to have a thread where keepers of this species could share and discuss their experiences, because I've done extensive research and found very little from keepers documenting their experiences of caring for these increasingly popular spiders. I'd love to know the opinions of those who keep them, but there are some specific areas of inquiry I'd really like keepers to share, so that we can learn from each other and not just count on a few big names to tell us more general information in an article or YouTube video.

I started this series of questions after talking to a couple keepers who offered a portrait of a spider that was completely fossorial and had to be fed pre-killed to get it to eat reliably, while mine is more of a terrestrial webber, and a third poster shared a great shot of their girl showing of her teeth while waving with both hands, lol.

I noted that the photo highlighted the defensive traits of H. Pulchripes, which contrasts with the common "very chill" description I've heard from plenty of keepers. Besides their disposition and temperament, I also became interested in the split between fossorial vs. terrestrial webber behavior. These three cases brought together specimens along the spectrum from more defensive to more relaxed and more fossorial vs. more terrestrial. I think all of them have the potential to be spicy OW specimens under the right circumstances, but individuals seem to lean more towards one temperament than the other.

I know the photo of the H. Pulchripes in a threat display could have just been a chance pose or temper tantrum, so I want to know from keepers if theirs is spicy or mild. What behaviors have helped your form this opinion? What about those keepers who have fossorial recluses and those whose specimens are more of a terrestrial webber that is out and on display most of the time? The correlation of this data could help determine if individuals who prefer to live underground are more defensive than those that are terrestrial, vice versa, or a roughly equal mix. For example, are most terrestrial webbers more relaxed while tunnelers are more defensive? Is it the other way around, or is temperament completely unrelated to how they live and there are just as many spicy ones who prefer the fossorial existence as there are spicy terrestrials who web a lot. Also, what kinds of situations are likely to make a specimen defensive? Is it just luck of the draw or does enclosure play a role? Because I bought my H. Pulchripes very early in my tarantula keeping, I have encountered other keepers who have regaled me with horror stories, and at least as many who have echoed my own feelings about my girl, Azula - that they are a relaxed species that is to be respected, but is not nearly as defensive as an OBT.

I've come to learn that this species is a relative newcomer on the scene, who has been in North America about a decade or so, was pretty highly priced here for a while, but whose price has fallen to average during and after COVID, as NA breeders got their hands on them and increased the supply. Nonetheless, I have a hard time finding much information about these spiders from actual keepers outside some of the more prominent figures in the hobby, a few of which I've mentioned. Still, I see this species listed in the inventory of most North American breeders and sellers, but have been able to find so little discussion of their traits and husbandry by keepers on the web. Since they are like an OBT in that they can be fossorial or more like a GBB, defensive or pretty relaxed, I'm really excited to know what determines this preference and temperament.

What I find especially interesting is the utter lack of bite reports. One thing I have not encountered in my research is more than a single anecdotal account of a bite by this species, and it was communicated second-hand. Otherwise, I haven't been able to find a single story of someone's experience getting bitten by this species. That leaves me to believe bites are highly underreported, but knowing how much spider keepers like to share information about bites, I have to assume that very few people are actually being bitten. Is this just my impression or have other owners observed the same thing? Anyone been bitten by theirs?

Anyways, I'd really love to continue the discussion here among keepers of H. Pulchripes regarding your experiences. Like, how long have you had the specimen, how old are they, how big were they when you first got them, what was your enclosure design, did they act more fossorial or terrestrial, is their temperament relaxed or defensive, what and how do you mainly feed them? I'd really love to hear about anything noteworthy people have observed in their husbandry, like how long their specimen typically goes into premolt for, do they disappear to molt and resurface a few weeks later, or do you not know because yours spends all its time underground? What's their feeding response like and are they good hunters? What made you acquire this species in the first place? Did you have more than a year of experience keeping Ts before your acquired this OW species? If, like me, you bought it just a few months into your Tarantula-keeping journey, what made you think you'd be able to handle it or were you anxious about that? Was their temperament what you expected, more relaxed, or more defensive?

Anyhow, I'd really love to find a place to collect and discuss this species and create an excellent resource for keepers and researchers, because I think there simply isn't enough specific, practical information out there about them. I look forward to the two members who originally shared their experiences with me in my photo thread to contribute here, and for any other H. Pulcripes keepers - past or present - to answer as many of the questions I posed as possible, or add any other interesting information about your experience to this thread.

Thank-you to everyone who participates in this discussion. It will be excellent for our own learning and becoming better keepers, but it will also create a valuable resource that everyone who googles the species will see when they consider acquiring a specimen or already has one and wants to know about the experiences of other keepers. Ideally, this discussion can continue for years as new keepers and contributors add information about their experiences until this becomes the most thorough and useful collection of information about the Blue-Legged Golden Baboon.

Sauga
You misunderstood me hinny I feed prekilled for safety not because she won't eat 😊. Morio/super worms are known to bite and dig when she does come out once I have gone to bed I want her to be able to find her food easy so morio gets beheaded n left at the entrance to her burrow and even though the head is gone the worm still wriggles fir hours after just doesn't burrow, the head keeps going too, pretty gross stuff tbh. But prekilled for safety not coz she won't eat live 😉.


As for gbb not being arboreal my girl never touched her sub from the 1cm dls she was when she came till her last moult, she chose to live in a web castle right at the top of her viv, which was definitely a pain when she was due a feed. Wasn't till she hit 4 inches on her last moult she put on some chunk n moved to the sub. Not to argue with cold but as I said to you on a previous thread my experience has been all t's are different even in the same sp , the more time you spend watching them the more you will see it, and whats right, true, n works for one keeper or t may not for another 😊. There are general guidelines but that's what they are guidelines, not hard rules. You have to find what works for you n the t your working with.
 

Requiem4aSpleen

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I am -but I’m not dumb

I remember when peeps dropped that same amount for P victorri

Friends- aren’t you going to get it?!!!

Me- what for? it will be 20-30$ in a few years
I wonder if the black orchid will ever be attainable. That's the problem. I say no more, i have enough. Than a year down the road you see a O sp Valhalla being sold for $50.
 

Sauga Bound

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You misunderstood me hinny I feed prekilled for safety not because she won't eat 😊. Morio/super worms are known to bite and dig when she does come out once I have gone to bed I want her to be able to find her food easy so morio gets beheaded n left at the entrance to her burrow and even though the head is gone the worm still wriggles fir hours after just doesn't burrow, the head keeps going too, pretty gross stuff tbh. But prekilled for safety not coz she won't eat live 😉.


As for gbb not being arboreal my girl never touched her sub from the 1cm dls she was when she came till her last moult, she chose to live in a web castle right at the top of her viv, which was definitely a pain when she was due a feed. Wasn't till she hit 4 inches on her last moult she put on some chunk n moved to the sub. Not to argue with cold but as I said to you on a previous thread my experience has been all t's are different even in the same sp , the more time you spend watching them the more you will see it, and whats right, true, n works for one keeper or t may not for another 😊. There are general guidelines but that's what they are guidelines, not hard rules. You have to find what works for you n the t your working with.
Yes, I realize now that you feed them superworms, which bite back. Still, I wonder why you use superworms as your main food source when you seem to have other, better options available to you. I've always heard superworms and even mealworms were fattier and have less protein than locusts, crickets, dubias, etc. What is it about superworms that you like so much?

You are absolutely right that individual specimens of the same species often have their own idiosyncrasies, which range from the minor to the significant. My GBB hasn't been an especially heavy webber thus far, but she doesn't spend too much time in the burrow I built for her when I set up the enclosure. She's webbed certain areas heavily, but looking at the enclosure from above, there's random bits of webbing here and there. I hope when she emerges from her molting burrow, she will be more intentional about her webbing.
 

Charliemum

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Yes, I realize now that you feed them superworms, which bite back. Still, I wonder why you use superworms as your main food source when you seem to have other, better options available to you. I've always heard superworms and even mealworms were fattier and have less protein than locusts, crickets, dubias, etc. What is it about superworms that you like so much?

You are absolutely right that individual specimens of the same species often have their own idiosyncrasies, which range from the minor to the significant. My GBB hasn't been an especially heavy webber thus far, but she doesn't spend too much time in the burrow I built for her when I set up the enclosure. She's webbed certain areas heavily, but looking at the enclosure from above, there's random bits of webbing here and there. I hope when she emerges from her molting burrow, she will be more intentional about her webbing.
Easy for me to keep, I can't deal with roaches they make my skin crawl, call it an irrational girly fear lol, locusts don't come in lots of sizes n usually half dead anyways, crix I already explained so mealworms n morio are what I have left as a full time option, n yes they are fatty but feeding them good food fruit veg I was told would balance them out better. Really any feeder is good aslong as its been fed with good food 🤷🏻‍♀️. That's what I was lead to believe anyways n my baby's have never complained or turned down a meal unless premoult is happening.
I did have one girl that was fussy a Euathlus truculentus af would only eat dark beetles but after some advice on ab I have managed to get her to take other feeders, she will happily take morio now. I didn't find out till months after I got her she's actually wc which explained her randomness with food.

Yes it's one of the things I love most about t's 😊, the more time I spend with them the more quirks and behaviours I notice and they aren't anything like ppl think, they are complex little beings. Don't get me wrong I know they can't feel love ect but I do believe they have behaviours we don't fully understand. It's why I say there's no experts, there is too much for one person to know, and we are all constantly learning more n better ways to keep our t's happy. Ever evolving hobby 😊.
 

Kada

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I've only a year or 2 experience with this sp. They seem pretty easy so far for me. I concur with them being fully fossorial, though they aren't too shy and do come out a lot. At least in my experience. Lots of substrate, they tunnel a lot. I also do angled cork from the bottom up to the top of the soil to let them have a hard structure for burrowing. Mine have all made turrets against said cork slabs.

Reading this thread, $500usd a pop? Yikes. I paid $5 and the breeder gave me 2 more for free. Mr. Vipers logic is sound, just wait and prices come down. Unless one has the cash or is into breeding, I can't imagine a $500 spider. But I've paid way more for snakes and lizards so I guess I can't talk haha
 

Sauga Bound

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Thanks to everyone taking time to post in this thread. I've learned a lot from old threads where multiple posters have contributed information over time to create a repository of knowledge about a particular subject. I'm hoping this can be something similar.

What I'd like to ask other keepers about is molting. I've only had my girl for a couple months, so I haven't been through the premolt/molt cycle with her until the last couple of weeks. She was out and on display 90% of the time, and was working on webbing up the enclosure and making tunnels to connect her two hides. Then, two weeks ago, she disappeared into her hide, closed the door, and I haven't seen a trace of her since. Thinking back, she had stopped showing an interest in food, which was a real hassle for me, because I would have to find the escapees and extract them from their hiding places with a baboon overseeing my work. Good thing she hasn't shown any proclivity towards defensiveness.

In my case, I can only assume she is going to emerge from her hide some time in the next couple weeks, a little bigger and brighter, with her molt in tow. Since I can't see what's going on in her hide, all I can do is assume. I keep her water dish full, smell the enclosure every morning to confirm she's still alive, and wait for her to emerge on her own time. Does this seem like the right approach? Is there anything else I should be doing? I'm reluctant to leave prekilled food for her because I don't want to traIn her to become dependent on it, but I also don't want her to starve. Her abdomen was very plump before she disappeared. She's been in there for two weeks; when should I start to worry if she still hasn't emerged?

I'd really appreciate any feedback or advice from more experienced keepers. It would also be great if keepers could mention a few things about their experiences regarding H. Pulchripes premolt/molting behavior. For example:

- How often do yours molt?
- How long does the premolt period usually last?
- Does their behavior and appearance change noticeably during premolt or not so much?
- For those who have more terrestrial specimens, do they go into seclusion for the premolt period like mine seems to be doing, or do they remain visible until they are ready to molt? For those with more fossorial specimens, is it refusing food that tells you they're in premolt, or are there other indicators as well?
- Any other relevant observations you've made regarding premolt/molt and their behavior during this time

Thanks to everyone contributing to this thread. I've already learned a lot from reading about other keepers' experiences and I think it will be a useful resource as we add to it.
 

Matt Man

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Messages
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Thanks to everyone taking time to post in this thread. I've learned a lot from old threads where multiple posters have contributed information over time to create a repository of knowledge about a particular subject. I'm hoping this can be something similar.

What I'd like to ask other keepers about is molting. I've only had my girl for a couple months, so I haven't been through the premolt/molt cycle with her until the last couple of weeks. She was out and on display 90% of the time, and was working on webbing up the enclosure and making tunnels to connect her two hides. Then, two weeks ago, she disappeared into her hide, closed the door, and I haven't seen a trace of her since. Thinking back, she had stopped showing an interest in food, which was a real hassle for me, because I would have to find the escapees and extract them from their hiding places with a baboon overseeing my work. Good thing she hasn't shown any proclivity towards defensiveness.

In my case, I can only assume she is going to emerge from her hide some time in the next couple weeks, a little bigger and brighter, with her molt in tow. Since I can't see what's going on in her hide, all I can do is assume. I keep her water dish full, smell the enclosure every morning to confirm she's still alive, and wait for her to emerge on her own time. Does this seem like the right approach? Is there anything else I should be doing? I'm reluctant to leave prekilled food for her because I don't want to traIn her to become dependent on it, but I also don't want her to starve. Her abdomen was very plump before she disappeared. She's been in there for two weeks; when should I start to worry if she still hasn't emerged?

I'd really appreciate any feedback or advice from more experienced keepers. It would also be great if keepers could mention a few things about their experiences regarding H. Pulchripes premolt/molting behavior. For example:

- How often do yours molt?
- How long does the premolt period usually last?
- Does their behavior and appearance change noticeably during premolt or not so much?
- For those who have more terrestrial specimens, do they go into seclusion for the premolt period like mine seems to be doing, or do they remain visible until they are ready to molt? For those with more fossorial specimens, is it refusing food that tells you they're in premolt, or are there other indicators as well?
- Any other relevant observations you've made regarding premolt/molt and their behavior during this time

Thanks to everyone contributing to this thread. I've already learned a lot from reading about other keepers' experiences and I think it will be a useful resource as we add to it.
Molting frequency depends more on their age than anything else. Like most Ts they molt a lot when young and slow as they age. Molting behaviors can vary from T to T even within the same species
 

cold blood

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- How often do yours molt?
- How long does the premolt period usually last?
- Does their behavior and appearance change noticeably during premolt or not so much?
- For those who have more terrestrial specimens, do they go into seclusion for the premolt period like mine seems to be doing, or do they remain visible until they are ready to molt? For those with more fossorial specimens, is it refusing food that tells you they're in premolt, or are there other indicators as well?
- Any other relevant observations you've made regarding premolt/molt and their behavior during this time
How often they molt is dependent on their size....the larger the t, the longer the cycle....adults often molt yearly, but for slow growers it could be every 4-5 years

How long pre molt lasts depends on how heavily it's fed.....all ts have a length of time they need to be physically ready to molt....feed heavy and they get plump and end up in pre molt for very long times, sometimes a year or more....feed slower and the same t may only be pre molt for a week or three.

When in pre molt, they can get reclusive or defensive....colors fade, skin darkens and in the latter stages they get a stretched out shiny look to the abdomen....the femurs also show this.

Some get reclusive and disappear, others don't, there's no hard and fast rules.

When they get fat and start refusing food, stop feeding....a fat tarantula doesn't need food.
 
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