Haplopelma sp Bach Ma

Chilobrachyfanatic

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Hi am planning to get this sp but I can't seem to find care sheets for it. all I know its a fossorial sp. none in the internet is saying how the humidity is suppose to be and all. does anyone have a first hand experience with them? would love to know more about them and share pictures of them too!
 

cold blood

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Dont read or look at care sheets...theyre terrible.

Humidity isnt relevant to keeping ts.

Keep just like any asian fossorial...deep damp substrate.
 
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Chilobrachyfanatic

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Dont read or look fot care sheets...theyre terrible.

Humidity isnt relevant to keeping ts.

Keep just like any asian fossorial...deep damp substrate.
I’ll keep them like my C. Sp Electric Blue then thank you!

Same as any other Haplopelma from what I've gathered. Moist sub and plenty of room to dig. Care will be very close to a H. schmidti if not identical. No first hand experience here, just research, so if anyone else has any other suggestions I would take that.

Photos: http://arachnoboards.com/threads/haplopelma-sp-bach-ma.290104/
Love the pic man!! Such beaut
 
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FrDoc

Gen. 1:24-25
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If you get a sling expect a very decent growth rate. My sling’s not too shy either. It stays put even when I’m goofing around in its enclosure, just sorta moves a bit away but does not hide. They start showing color pretty quick also. You’re spot on with the move to keep it like electric blue.
 

spiderpilot

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Step father was a tunnel rat in Vietnam and claimed to have had this species while he was on tour. Claimed he kept it in a hat and I had thought it was just a crazy old vet's war story, that he made the name up. Until I had just very recently came across spiderlings listed. Ran my normal searches and I know there is information here but would have to agree that for some reason most of the online world comes up emptied handed in regards to this sp. Even though I didn't want something burrowing he kept trying to convince me to get one of these. Its not on the high end of the price range but it was not a cheap spiderling either but I ordered and received today. I KNOW im suppose to wait to feed till it settles Ive read that ten times but this must be the only industry still left on earth not run by data. Maybe its just entirely too much work but even the larger sites and breeders seem not to know when a spiderling last ate, rarely when it last molted, when it was born and so on. Its just like all these breeders know is the species and size and sometimes the instar, even those are rare. Now don't get me wrong I'm not picking on T breeders here at all because I know little of it ,but being an IT person from way back I am suprised that someone doesn't track the data. Anyways this 1" Bach Ma gave me a little threat pose flash on the re-house but no real issues. I decided to try and see if it would take a Dubia nymph because again no one really knows when this animal last ate because there is not data on that when you buy them so don't troll me but I thought I would try it. This had been within four hours of re-house. It almost immediately grabbed the dubia and went after it. It doesn't seem one bit skittish for being so little and I was suprised .Old Tarantula war story lived up to to the old vets legend.
 

cold blood

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I KNOW im suppose to wait to feed till it settles Ive read that ten times
This is absolutely not a hard and fast rule....in fact, i would call it a myth.
but even the larger sites and breeders seem not to know when a spiderling last ate
When you have hatched out a sac of spiderlings, no one on earth is going to nitpick over each one to know when it ate last.....we can't watch every sling all the time.

When you have a sac of spiderlings
rarely when it last molted,
When a sling last molted is entirely irrelevant info....first, you can look at the abdomen and get a good idea, but they are molting so quickly at this stage that just knowing the instar is more than enough info for ANY buyer....just feed the sling and dont worry about it.

Now I will say things are different with juvies and adults...some breeders, myself included, often will include the last molt date if its known.
when it was born
This would only happen if the person selling was the breeder...when you shop at an online store front, most of what they have was purchased wholesale from the breeder, so knowing the "birthdate" isnt possible...plus its not really relevant info like it would be for many other animals. Now when buying directly from a breeder, that's when you will have a better idea of the hatch date...but most dont buy directly from breeders.
I'm not picking on T breeders here at all because I know little of it ,
Your questions make that clear...lol.
I am suprised that someone doesn't track the data
Again, when you have hundreds and hundreds of slings, the amount of time needed to acquire that data would be absurd and not worth any dealer or breeders time. This data you want isn't something any experienced keeper would be concerned about...only newbies care about these irrelevant pueces of info...no offense...we were all newbies at one time:)
 

spiderpilot

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This is absolutely not a hard and fast rule....in fact, i would call it a myth.

When you have hatched out a sac of spiderlings, no one on earth is going to nitpick over each one to know when it ate last.....we can't watch every sling all the time.

When you have a sac of spiderlings
When a sling last molted is entirely irrelevant info....first, you can look at the abdomen and get a good idea, but they are molting so quickly at this stage that just knowing the instar is more than enough info for ANY buyer....just feed the sling and dont worry about it.

Now I will say things are different with juvies and adults...some breeders, myself included, often will include the last molt date if its known.

This would only happen if the person selling was the breeder...when you shop at an online store front, most of what they have was purchased wholesale from the breeder, so knowing the "birthdate" isnt possible...plus its not really relevant info like it would be for many other animals. Now when buying directly from a breeder, that's when you will have a better idea of the hatch date...but most dont buy directly from breeders.

Your questions make that clear...lol.

Again, when you have hundreds and hundreds of slings, the amount of time needed to acquire that data would be absurd and not worth any dealer or breeders time. This data you want isn't something any experienced keeper would be concerned about...only newbies care about these irrelevant pueces of info...no offense...we were all newbies at one time:)
looking at that way yeah , I figured there had to be some reason . Guess getting into this I thought it would be more exact with a few more things but Im finding out really quickly that is far from the case. I couldn't imagine dealing with hundreds of slings that just decided overnight not to consume the food. Someone trolled me on another thread because I fed C Versi slings without prekilling the prey. Sorry but if I prekilled the prey item , i would not be able to tell if the sling had consumed it and left the carcass or the bug just died off overnight . I thought my eyes were pretty good. I would never be able to tell if those tiny meals were liquified from the inside out or just died off on there own overnight. I would need a microscope. But I suppose if sling doesn't enter pre-molt , the bugs you were feeding weren't getting consumed. Hence why I picked up the back ma, for being so little its not skittish and did not bolt or cause issues. It seems to be a tiny spider with much larger spider confidence. Maybe I got into the wriong hobby but I tend to like things with a ton to learn , inherently complex . I think im right where I belong.

Make it sound so easy just feed the sling and don't worry about it. Well I thought I could feed a sling 48 hours after a molt but I was also trolled for attempting that and was told I went online bought animals and that I was trying to do the research after the fact. No I had done a ton of research but its sorting thru the good and bad because of misinformation all over the net , that takes more time . How are you supposed to learn this stuff without a live spider anyways. So much just relates to the spider with behavior, appearance of abdomen. Everytime I think I have something nailed down with spiders , with the basics the spidef says you THOUGHT you knew but try again suckerl.
 

cold blood

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I thought it would be more exact
really a large part of the issue is simply that with almost everything tarantula and tarantula keeping, there is just so much variability in everything we/tthey do.....some keepers grow things real fast, others real slowly...some individuals outgrow all siblings while others lag impossibly behind...same age but many many molts behind and a fraction of the size....

some keepers feed a lot, others sparingly, some keep things warm, others don't (I could go one and on)...you look at a juvie or adult and the wide range of its potential age will tell you just how useless age really is (size matters more). For example, a 4" B. hamorii could be as young as 2, or as old as 10 years or more. And despite all the differences in growth, temps, feeding, etc,, every one could very well result in the same, perfectly healthy, well cared for tarantula.
 

spiderpilot

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Oct 10, 2022
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Since it seems your from my home state I will ask you how long should I be waiting after a C Versicolor sling molted to 3i to attempt to feed it? Or how long till its fangs are hard enough to take prey? If your breeding are you breeding any Phormingochilus sp ? Got my first old worlds today including a 2.5 inch or over Hati Hati female. She was pretty easy to deal with but I had a good plan and I think she was just cold on the unboxing then housing. Not saying she would be easy to re-house at all but that sp seems more stubborn than defensive and bolty. My famouse last words right! Also have a 2inch Versicolor that acts like described asian arboreals and turns to face where the foot tickle came from everytime. Im very happy with super confident little Bach Ma for sure, just a little concerned about what that will build into during adulthood. Thats Ok thats what I wanted.
 

spiderpilot

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Good. She has been out pretty steadily since two days after the molt. She is much larger than her molt and her abdomen is looking pretty tiny even compared to before she molted. I will attempt to feed her tomorrow. Thanks for the straight direct answer.

really a large part of the issue is simply that with almost everything tarantula and tarantula keeping, there is just so much variability in everything we/tthey do.....some keepers grow things real fast, others real slowly...some individuals outgrow all siblings while others lag impossibly behind...same age but many many molts behind and a fraction of the size....

some keepers feed a lot, others sparingly, some keep things warm, others don't (I could go one and on)...you look at a juvie or adult and the wide range of its potential age will tell you just how useless age really is (size matters more). For example, a 4" B. hamorii could be as young as 2, or as old as 10 years or more. And despite all the differences in growth, temps, feeding, etc,, every one could very well result in the same, perfectly healthy, well cared for tarantula.
Im finding this all out very quickly, and it's all good. I agree completely with what your saying here so far.
 
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