Glass Enclosure Build

[ccTroi]

Hello . I want to share my custom enclosures.

I love my spiders, and I want to display them. I don’t have any prior experience with custom enclosures but seeing a full collection in glass enclosures has made me want to build them. The reason I chose glass is bc it is easier to clean, cheaper, and imo have a more attractive look and feel than acrylic. Don’t get me wrong; acrylic enclosures are equally as great for display purposes and weigh significantly less. For what I’m looking for, glass pros outweighed glass cons more than acrylic.

I love the feature of having a removable front and top because of great accessibility to the spider and for maintenance. I think a guillotine-style sliding door is synonymous to European enclosures other than being made of glass. I have yet to try a hinged door mechanism but looking forward to incorporating it to a build to see if I like it more. I mainly disliked a hinge mechanism bc the actual hinge itself on the glass is unattractive. Also, opening would require more space to accommodate the door compared to opening a guillotine front. Needless to say, both mechanisms have their pros and cons, and I would like to test each for what works best for me.

I created enclosure designs on a 3D modeling software until I was satisfied. After, I did a lot of shopping around my area for quotes for custom glass cut to size from small shops to established businesses. Everyone that’s gotten back to me charged more than what I’d like to pay for just one enclosure. This route wasn’t ideal as I want to have several dozens to display. I tried taking apart aquarium tanks for their glass panes bc this is very cost-effective. I hated it and would never do it again bc the time and effort in taking apart tanks isn't worth it. I settled for buying large glass panes and cutting them myself to size in which I don’t have any prior experience before this. “Cutting” glass is interesting. It took me quite some time to get the hang of it, and I’m still learning but feel confident doing it. Also, shopping around for the other materials was very time consuming as I had to create models for every piece on software to see if they are appropriate.

Terrestrial enclosure 12” length by 10” depth by 10” height. Floor space of 12” by 10” looks perfect for Brachypelma spp. (my full-grown B. hamorii would do great in this) and other similarly sized terrestrials. I think OBT and GBB would also be perfect in this. The 10” height looks too tall, but this opinion will surely change as I plan to incorporate a slanted substrate layout that is shallower at the foreground. I’m still deciding on whether I should include a foam background. I’d like to build an 8” tall enclosure to see if I like it more.

Arboreal enclosure 8” length by 10” depth by 12” height. I recently attached the black guides for the removable front and top and allowing the silicone to cure. I’m pleased with the 10” depth seeing it built in person compared to the design on software. This will allow me to incorporate a foam background and/or position a cork bark piece at a lower incline without compromising floor space. The 12” height looks perfect. The majority of aboreals I plan to keep will be Asian spiders so a 12” height is more ideal than my initial design of 10”. I’ll likely build a 10” height in the future just to see if I like it. I’m designing a bigger enclosure for larger spiders but won’t start cutting glass until I see how my P. rufilata or P. ornata specimens would do in the original dimensions when full-grown.

Two 8” by 10” by 12” enclosures are being built right now. These are slightly modified from the first arboreal enclosure but looks similar. Recently attached the vents and small glass pieces. I was motivated by the first that I was eager to make more. Significantly less mistakes than first enclosure (squares, glass dimensions, and silicone placement). I can build at most four more of these enclosures before having to order more glass though I'm most likely going to hop on the software to create a new design and build that.

This has been very fun, satisfying, and fulfilling esp since I have a greater appreciation for the hobby compared to before when I briefly left. The designs I settled for aren't permanent, and I plan to experiment in future enclosures. Something about creating it yourself from scratch is very, very rewarding.

 

[viper69]

I have both- cleaning glass is king.

Why did you need software for this??

Foam takes up more space.

Remember rufi’s are quite large, consider going taller and wider. Not necessary, but would be useful during husbandry

 

[BoyFromLA]

I plan to experiment in future enclosures.

Awww how nice of you. My Poecilotheria rufilata will be very happy.

 

[ccTroi]

I have both- cleaning glass is king.

Why did you need software for this??

Foam takes up more space.

Remember rufi’s are quite large, consider going taller and wider. Not necessary, but would be useful during husbandry

I used software for accurate measurements for when I cut the glass as I'm certain I would make mistakes if by hand. Seeing it in 3D was also helpful. The other materials (angles, channels, perforated metal) weren't bought until last week, and there were so many to choose from that I had to model them on software to see if they are appropriate and would fit. I had in mind styrofoam and carving it to a tree trunk placed at a corner. I plan to look up prices for it and see where I can get the best deal. I have in mind 10x12x15" if I find I'm struggling with 8x10x12".

 

[ccTroi]

My take on a fossorial enclosure inspired by Guy Tansley.

Dimensions are 4” width by 10” depth by 12” height. Front and back vents are 1/2” length with 1/16” holes and 1” length with 1/8” holes, respectively.

Countless checks for squares were done throughout the build. Measure twice, cut once philosophy. Project was put on hold for a week for the rest of materials to arrive.

Metals and plastics came in this week. I had to cut the metals to size which saves a lot of money for more enclosures. I used a Dremel rotary tool with a metal cutting wheel to cut the metals to size. There weren’t sparks flying as the metal was aluminum, but I still wore safety equipment. I didn’t grind the rough cut edges as they will be covered with black angles (see finished pictures below). Re: plastic tracks, I used the Dremel with a plastic cutting wheel at first. After the first cut, I switched to using a hacksaw which was far easier and quicker. I sanded the ends of the tracks after.

The front and back upper glass pieces were installed with the metal vents. Allowed the silicone to cure for the plastic track installment the next day.

Enclosure is looking good so far.

Front and side/rear view, respectively.

Total of five fossorial enclosures were made.

This enclosure design is intended for fossorial tarantulas esp for obligate burrowers known to be “pet holes.” The 10” depth and 12” height allows for plenty of substrate for the spider to burrow. Additionally, the large amount of substrate will aid in moisture retention which will help to maintain humidity. Front lower vent allows for air circulation even in the burrow (hot and humid air exits through the rear upper vent, pulling in dry and cooler air through the front lower vent; thanks @l4nsky uwu). The 4” width is ample space for the biggest of females to turn around and maneuver in. This allows for visibility to the most reclusive “pet holes.” However, I regularly “tickle” my fossorial tarantulas to gauge feeding response, so this feature is an extra benefit. In other words, I’m content with just seeing legs through burrow entrances (or nothing at all).

I’m very pleased with how this turned out. In the future, I plan to try a 5” width design that is shorter. Seeing it next to my 10” height terrestrial enclosure, I’m considering modifying this fossorial enclosure that is 4” width by 10” depth by 10” height. I can easily scale this enclosure down to house terrestrials and smaller tarantulas as well. Overall, I really like the narrow design bc it is aesthetically appealing and very space-efficient. Guy Tansley uses this design in an arboreal setup. I would like to try housing one of my own in this and see how I like it.

 

[Albireo Wulfbooper]

These would also make fantastic amblypygi enclosures!

 

[alvin889]

My take on a fossorial enclosure inspired by Guy Tansley.

Dimensions are 4” width by 10” depth by 12” height. Front and back vents are 1/2” length with 1/16” holes and 1” length with 1/8” holes, respectively.

View attachment 385565 View attachment 385564 View attachment 385566 Countless checks for squares were done throughout the build. Measure twice, cut once philosophy. Project was put on hold for a week for the rest of materials to arrive.

View attachment 385569 Metals and plastics came in this week. I had to cut the metals to size which saves a lot of money for more enclosures. I used a Dremel rotary tool with a metal cutting wheel to cut the metals to size. There weren’t sparks flying as the metal was aluminum, but I still wore safety equipment. I didn’t grind the rough cut edges as they will be covered with black angles (see finished pictures below). Re: plastic tracks, I used the Dremel with a plastic cutting wheel at first. After the first cut, I switched to using a hacksaw which was far easier and quicker. I sanded the ends of the tracks after.

View attachment 385575 View attachment 385576 The front and back upper glass pieces were installed with the metal vents. Allowed the silicone to cure for the plastic track installment the next day.

View attachment 385570 Enclosure is looking good so far.

View attachment 385571 View attachment 385573 Front and side/rear view, respectively.

View attachment 385574 Total of five fossorial enclosures were made.

This enclosure design is intended for fossorial tarantulas esp for obligate burrowers known to be “pet holes.” The 10” depth and 12” height allows for plenty of substrate for the spider to burrow. Additionally, the large amount of substrate will aid in moisture retention which will help to maintain humidity. Front lower vent allows for air circulation even in the burrow (hot and humid air exits through the rear upper vent, pulling in dry and cooler air through the front lower vent; thanks @l4nsky uwu). The 4” width is ample space for the biggest of females to turn around and maneuver in. This allows for visibility to the most reclusive “pet holes.” However, I regularly “tickle” my fossorial tarantulas to gauge feeding response, so this feature is an extra benefit. In other words, I’m content with just seeing legs through burrow entrances (or nothing at all).

I’m very pleased with how this turned out. In the future, I plan to try a 5” width design that is shorter. Seeing it next to my 10” height terrestrial enclosure, I’m considering modifying this fossorial enclosure that is 4” width by 10” depth by 10” height. I can easily scale this enclosure down to house terrestrials and smaller tarantulas as well. Overall, I really like the narrow design bc it is aesthetically appealing and very space-efficient. Guy Tansley uses this design in an arboreal setup. I would like to try housing one of my own in this and see how I like it.

Hey! do you by chance have the actual dimensions that you used to make these? I'm trying to place an order with a glass shop and I'm slightly worried about missing a piece of glass or not correctly accounting for the thickness.

Thanks!

 

[ccTroi]

Hey! do you by chance have the actual dimensions that you used to make these? I'm trying to place an order with a glass shop and I'm slightly worried about missing a piece of glass or not correctly accounting for the thickness.

Thanks!

Hey! Sorry for getting back so late. The overall dimensions of the fossorial enclosure was 4” width by 10” depth by 12” height made of 1/8" glass. The dimensions for the glass pieces are:

- bottom: (1) 9 3/4" by 4"​

- side: (2) 9 3/4" by 11 7/8"​

- back a: (1) 10 1/4" by 4"​

- front a: (1) 10 1/4" by 4"​

- back b: (1) 4" by 3/4"​

- front b: (1) 4" by 1"​

- top*: (1) 10" by 3 9/16"​

I purchased 48" by 12" glass panes from an established glass company, and I cut each glass pieces to size. I had no prior experience in making custom enclosures let alone cutting glass. That means, if I can do you it, then you can do it, too .You save a lot more (and in turn can make more enclosures!) this route compared to getting the pieces custom cut. Looking back, there are many things I would change to make it better. I plan to make more in the future when my schedule clears up. Hope this helps.

 

[The Snark]

had no prior experience in making custom enclosures let alone cutting glass. That means, if I can do you it, then you can do it, too

I'm wondering how hard the learning curve was.
I got thrown into the deep end cold turkey once, getting a job in a glass production warehouse. Never worked with glass before in my life. I figure if I had held that job for a year I might have learned enough to ask stupid questions. A world unto itself.

 

[ccTroi]

I'm wondering how hard the learning curve was.
I got thrown into the deep end cold turkey once, getting a job in a glass production warehouse. Never worked with glass before in my life. I figure if I had held that job for a year I might have learned enough to ask stupid questions. A world unto itself.

I didn't think the learning curve was a problem for me. It was easy to pick up but certainly there is a lot of improvement I can do on my end. Cutting the glass was very easy after you get the hang of it. The tedious part of glass cutting is taking into account the thickness of glass cutter, the ruler, and having to sand the sharp edges. I still have the problem of the glass' cut edge not being completely square - this poses a problem during assembly. Keeping the sides square throughout the silicone process was a challenge, though I have an idea of creating a jig to help keep every square in the future for when I order more glass. I watched countless YouTube videos of other keepers building glass enclosures, other people cutting glass, and other people siliconing glass. It does feel very rewarding when you reach the end-product.

Big box home improvement stores such as Home Depot sell 3/32" think glass panes. I would never use 3/32" thickness for large enclosures. I experimented on them for an enclosure with the same design concept as the above fossorial enclosure in this thread but at a smaller scale. In particular, I built a handful of 7 3/16" x 4" x 6 3/4" LWH from the 3/32" glass that functioned perfectly. I think this is a great alternative. Additionally, I think they are suitable for burrowers and webbers that don't get bigger than 7".

 

[Introvertebrate]

.............The tedious part of glass cutting is taking into account the thickness of glass cutter, the ruler, and having to sand the sharp edges.............

Do you have details on the sanding? Did you sand by hand?

 

[ccTroi]

Do you have details on the sanding? Did you sand by hand?

The sanding process was simple. I only sanded them to make sure there weren't any sharp edges after the cut. I did sand by hand using 100 grit. I would wear gloves, goggles, and a mask when sanding the edges. Wipe the glass with towel and alcohol after the sanding process. Clean as you go because there may be tiny glass shards that might hurt you or others.

 

[The Snark]

A trick I learned after I got out of working with glass. Buy a table saw and a good shop vacuum. The table saw can be as cheap as they come as long as it has a miter attachment and fence that can be clamped square. The table becomes your work surface, the fence what you use to make square cuts. The edge of the table where you break the glass off cleanly. And the bonus: Grind the teeth off the saw blade or just replace with a flat metal disc. Glue sand paper to the side of the blade, attach the vacuum to the saw - sander and using the miter, sand the edges flat, clean and square.
The process of accurately cutting four square sides for a box becomes the work of less than a minute. Tilt the glass up slightly when running against the sanding 'blade' for any bevel you desire.

 

[The Snark]

@ccTroi By chance I happened by a shop down an alley here in Chiang Mai area. About 8 employees. Their total equipment, a large layout table covered with a carpet, a few squares, some handheld power sanders and a table saw. If anyone wonders what the factories are like where all those terrariums comes from, there you go. Several hundred cranked out every day.
What was fun to watch was the people with the silicone glue. Obviously takes some practice. Perfect thin beads squirted out in seconds where I spent all day in our bathroom trying to make a clean bead around the bathtub.

@ccTroi I took my jeep in to have the front windows replaced with one single sheet. Flat of course. Figuring it was going to be an all day nightmare and cost a fortune. Wandered off and got a cup of coffee then came back. Jeep was done. Double layer sandwiched safety glass neatly installed. $35.