Gigantometrus Swammerdami Care Sheet

[jadake]

I've been studying up for some time on G. Swammerdami and P. Imperator before getting my first pets. For this, I've been scanning the internet and message boards looking for as much information as I can, then I thought to try AI to see how good of a care sheet it can create. I would love to get feedback from people with actual experience and expertise on this AI-generated care sheet for its accuracy, depth, or possible lack thereof.

Gigantometrus (Heterometrus) swammerdami Care Sheet
Common Name: Giant Forest Scorpion
Scientific Name: Gigantometrus (formerly Heterometrus) swammerdami
Lifespan: 6-10 years in captivity
Size: 7-9 inches (18-23 cm), the largest scorpion species in the world
Origin: South Asia, primarily in India and Sri Lanka

Housing
Enclosure Size:
For a single adult Gigantometrus swammerdami, a 20-gallon tank or larger is recommended. This species is much larger than most scorpions, so it needs ample space to move, burrow, and explore. If housing multiple scorpions, provide at least an additional 10 gallons per scorpion.

Substrate:
Use 4-6 inches of a substrate that holds moisture well and allows for burrowing. Recommended substrate options include:

• Eco-earth (coconut fiber)
• Organic topsoil (chemical-free)
• Peat moss

Avoid sand or wood chips as these can dry out the environment or pose a hazard to the scorpion when burrowing.

Décor:
Provide plenty of hiding spots such as cork bark, flat rocks, or half logs. Gigantometrus swammerdami is an avid burrower, so be sure the substrate depth is sufficient for this behavior. You can also add live or artificial plants, which help retain humidity.

Temperature & Heating
Temperature Range:
Maintain a temperature range of 75°F to 85°F (24°C to 29°C) in the enclosure. Since scorpions are ectothermic, they rely on external sources of heat to regulate their body temperature.

Heat Mat and Thermostat:
A heat mat should be placed on the side of the enclosure rather than underneath. This prevents the scorpion from burrowing down in an attempt to escape the heat. A suitable heat mat for a 20-gallon tank would be around 8" x 12", with an adjustable thermostat to control the temperature. Recommended brands:

• Zoo Med ReptiTherm® Under Tank Heater
• Fluker’s Heat Mat

Set the thermostat to ensure that the tank doesn’t overheat. A digital thermometer placed in the enclosure will help monitor the temperature accurately.

Humidity
Ideal Humidity:
Maintain humidity levels between 75-85%, mimicking their natural tropical environments. This is crucial for the health of the scorpion and their molting process. To maintain humidity:

• Mist the enclosure regularly with dechlorinated water.
• Ensure the substrate remains slightly moist but not waterlogged.
• Provide a shallow water dish for drinking and humidity.

A hygrometer is essential for monitoring humidity levels. You can use a digital hygrometer for more precise measurements.

Lighting
Lighting Needs:
No special lighting is required as scorpions are nocturnal and prefer dim or dark environments. Avoid direct sunlight or bright artificial light as it can stress the scorpion and dry out the enclosure. If you prefer to have lighting for viewing, use a low-wattage red or blue bulb, which won’t disturb their natural behavior.

Feeding
Diet:
Gigantometrus swammerdami primarily feeds on large insects. Their diet can consist of:

• Gut-loaded crickets
• Dubia roaches
• Mealworms or superworms (occasionally)

Adult scorpions should be fed every 7-10 days, while juveniles can be fed more frequently (every 3-4 days). Offer food at night when the scorpion is most active. Remove any uneaten prey within 24 hours to prevent decay.

Water:
Provide a shallow dish of fresh, dechlorinated water. Ensure the dish is not deep enough for the scorpion to drown in. The dish should be cleaned regularly to avoid bacterial growth.

Handling
Gigantometrus swammerdami is generally less aggressive than other large scorpions but is still best left unhandled. These scorpions have a mild sting, though their large size and strong pincers can still cause discomfort. If handling is necessary, use soft-tipped tongs to gently move the scorpion during enclosure cleaning or relocation.

Handling should be kept to a minimum to avoid stressing the scorpion.

Molting
During growth, Gigantometrus swammerdami will molt, shedding their exoskeleton. Before molting, the scorpion may become lethargic and refuse food. It's important to:

• Avoid disturbing the scorpion during this period.
• Increase humidity slightly by misting more often.
• Ensure the substrate remains moist to ease the molting process.

The molting process can take several hours, and the scorpion will be vulnerable afterward. Do not offer food until they’ve fully hardened (typically 1-2 weeks post-molt).

Health Concerns
While Gigantometrus swammerdami is hardy, there are a few health concerns to watch for:

• Dehydration: Signs include a wrinkled exoskeleton or lethargy. Ensure proper humidity and provide fresh water.
• Fungal infections: Can occur if humidity levels are too high or if the substrate remains too wet. Look for white patches on the scorpion's exoskeleton.
• Mites and other parasites: Keep the enclosure clean to prevent infestations. Remove uneaten food and clean the water dish frequently.

Additional Information

• Communal housing: Although it’s possible to house multiple Gigantometrus swammerdami together, ensure they are similarly sized and that the enclosure is large enough with sufficient hiding spots. Monitor them for signs of aggression, especially after feeding.
• Species-specific needs: Do not house this species with other scorpion species, as they may become territorial or aggressive.
• Regular cleaning: Spot clean weekly by removing feces and old food items. Fully clean the enclosure every few months by replacing the substrate and wiping down the tank with a reptile-safe disinfectant.

Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling the scorpion or cleaning its enclosure to prevent the spread of any potential pathogens.

 

[jadake]

Being AI, it's definitely generic, but is it inaccurate or poor? For comparison, here is what it created for the a Pandinus Imperator care sheet:

Pandinus Imperator (Emperor Scorpion) Care Sheet
Common Name: Emperor Scorpion
Scientific Name: Pandinus imperator
Lifespan: 6-8 years in captivity
Size: 6-8 inches (15-20 cm)
Origin: West Africa (rainforests of Ghana, Togo, Sierra Leone, and Congo)

Housing
Enclosure Size:
A 10 to 20-gallon tank is sufficient for one adult Pandinus imperator. For housing multiple scorpions, provide a larger enclosure, with at least 10 gallons per additional scorpion. Ensure enough space to allow for hiding spots and natural behaviors like burrowing.

Substrate:
Pandinus imperator requires a substrate that retains moisture and allows for burrowing. Use:

• 4-6 inches of Eco-earth (coconut fiber)
• Organic topsoil (without pesticides or fertilizers)
• Peat moss

Avoid dry substrates like sand or wood chips, as they do not retain enough moisture and may cause injury during burrowing.

Décor:
Provide various hiding spots to mimic the scorpion’s natural habitat. Use:

• Cork bark
• Half logs
• Flat stones

Live or artificial plants can be added for decoration and to maintain humidity. Emperor scorpions are avid burrowers, so ensure the substrate is deep enough to encourage this behavior.

Temperature & Heating
Temperature Range:
Maintain a temperature range of 75°F to 85°F (24°C to 29°C) inside the enclosure. Emperor scorpions, like other scorpions, are ectothermic and rely on external heat to regulate their body temperature.

Heat Mat and Thermostat:
A heat mat should be placed on the side of the enclosure, not underneath, to prevent the scorpion from burrowing into a hot spot. For a 10-20 gallon tank, an 8" x 12" heat mat is suitable. Ensure temperature regulation with a thermostat set between 75°F and 85°F. Brands recommended for heating:

• Zoo Med ReptiTherm® Under Tank Heater
• Exo Terra Heat Mat

Monitor the temperature regularly using a digital thermometer placed at different points inside the enclosure to ensure consistency.

Humidity
Ideal Humidity:
Emperor scorpions need high humidity levels between 75-85% to thrive. This mirrors the tropical rainforests they come from and is vital for proper molting and hydration. To maintain this:

• Mist the enclosure regularly using dechlorinated water.
• Keep the substrate moist (but not soaked).
• Provide a shallow water dish for additional moisture.

A digital hygrometer is the best way to monitor and maintain the correct humidity level in the enclosure.

Lighting
Lighting Needs:
No special lighting is needed for Pandinus imperator, as they are nocturnal creatures that prefer low light conditions. Avoid bright light or direct sunlight, which can cause stress and dry out the enclosure. If you wish to view your scorpion at night, use a low-wattage red or blue light that won’t disrupt their natural behavior.

Feeding
Diet:
Emperor scorpions are insectivores and should be fed a diet of gut-loaded insects such as:

• Crickets
• Dubia roaches
• Mealworms or superworms (occasionally)

Juveniles will need to be fed every 2-3 days, while adults can be fed every 5-7 days. Ensure that all prey is removed after 24 hours if uneaten, as decaying food can lead to fungal growth or attract mites.

Water:
Provide a shallow dish of clean, dechlorinated water at all times. The dish should be shallow enough to prevent drowning, but large enough for the scorpion to drink from. Replace the water regularly to keep it fresh and prevent bacteria buildup.

Handling
While emperor scorpions are known for their docile nature compared to other scorpions, handling should still be done cautiously and sparingly to reduce stress. They have mild venom, similar to a bee sting, but their strong pincers can cause pain. Use:

• Soft-tipped tongs to move the scorpion when needed (such as during enclosure cleaning).

Handling should be kept to a minimum, and it’s recommended that beginners avoid frequent handling. Always handle these scorpions gently with open, flat hands if you do decide to interact directly.

Molting
Molting is a critical part of the growth cycle for Pandinus imperator. During this process, the scorpion sheds its exoskeleton and grows a new one. Signs that a scorpion is about to molt include lethargy, a refusal to eat, and a pale or dull exoskeleton. To aid in molting:

• Increase humidity in the enclosure by misting more frequently.
• Avoid disturbing the scorpion during the molting process.

Molting can take several hours, and the scorpion will be vulnerable afterward. Do not attempt to feed the scorpion for 1-2 weeks after molting to allow the new exoskeleton to harden.

Health Concerns
While generally hardy, there are a few health issues to be aware of with emperor scorpions:

• Dehydration: Symptoms include a wrinkled or shriveled exoskeleton. This is often caused by low humidity or lack of water. Increase misting and provide fresh water immediately.
• Fungal infections: These appear as white patches on the exoskeleton, often due to overly moist substrate or poor ventilation. Reduce humidity, clean the enclosure regularly, and ensure proper airflow.
• Mites: Keep the enclosure clean to avoid infestations. Remove uneaten food quickly and clean the water dish regularly.

Regularly check for signs of health issues and adjust the enclosure’s environment as needed.

Additional Information

• Communal housing: Emperor scorpions can be housed communally, but ensure there are enough hiding spots and monitor for signs of aggression. It is advisable to avoid housing different species of scorpions together.
• Enclosure cleaning: Spot clean the enclosure weekly by removing feces and leftover prey. Every few months, replace the substrate and disinfect the enclosure using reptile-safe products to prevent the buildup of bacteria or mold.

Always wash your hands thoroughly after handling the scorpion or cleaning the enclosure to prevent the spread of any potential pathogens.

 

[MorbidArachnid]

Don't use AI to generate care sheets. It does not have any experience, and is just spitting out whatever it can piece together from whatever it gets off the internet. Like on both care sheets it says Mealworms or Superworms (occasionally), why is it saying only occasionally? Maybe it found some website that says they're high in fat or something, or is averaging out thousands of care guides for reptiles where they're seen as supplemental treats. Without any actual decision making behind it, you have no idea why it's recommending the things it is. Like coco fiber, personally I really dislike coco fiber because in my experience it's either too dry or too moldy. If I was writing a care guide for either of these scorpions, I would be able to justify why I don't recommend coco fiber and leave it to the person reading it to tell if that was a good or bad reason. I could even say that people do use coco fiber, and if you do I recommend having springtails to keep mold down. (Speaking of which, there's no mention of springtails anywhere so it doesn't even give recommendations for how to combat issues like mold or mites). It also gives and exact dimension for the heat mat, but not a recommendation on wattage. There's no discussion of other possible sources of heat, such as ceramic heat emitters which can work well also. There's no anticipation of common problems with advice on how to avoid them. It also recommend things that are subjective with authority, such as them being communal or requiring a 20 gallon tank. And it falls back on strict feeding schedules when monitoring body condition is much more accurate and better. AI care guides should never be used, even for the things it recommends that are correct, such as deep burrowable substrate, not using sand or wood chips, or high humidity, these things are much better learned being read off an actual care guide written by someone with actual experience in keeping these animals. Those points are only correct because it took them off of better, more accurate care guides anyway. Or better yet, ask questions and get advice from people who have kept these animals, so you can get an opinion from someone with actual experience who can back up their recommendations or talk about common problems and mistakes.

 

[jadake]

Don't use AI to generate care sheets. It does not have any experience, and is just spitting out whatever it can piece together from whatever it gets off the internet. Like on both care sheets it says Mealworms or Superworms (occasionally), why is it saying only occasionally? Maybe it found some website that says they're high in fat or something, or is averaging out thousands of care guides for reptiles where they're seen as supplemental treats. Without any actual decision making behind it, you have no idea why it's recommending the things it is. Like coco fiber, personally I really dislike coco fiber because in my experience it's either too dry or too moldy. If I was writing a care guide for either of these scorpions, I would be able to justify why I don't recommend coco fiber and leave it to the person reading it to tell if that was a good or bad reason. I could even say that people do use coco fiber, and if you do I recommend having springtails to keep mold down. (Speaking of which, there's no mention of springtails anywhere so it doesn't even give recommendations for how to combat issues like mold or mites). It also gives and exact dimension for the heat mat, but not a recommendation on wattage. There's no discussion of other possible sources of heat, such as ceramic heat emitters which can work well also. There's no anticipation of common problems with advice on how to avoid them. It also recommend things that are subjective with authority, such as them being communal or requiring a 20 gallon tank. And it falls back on strict feeding schedules when monitoring body condition is much more accurate and better. AI care guides should never be used, even for the things it recommends that are correct, such as deep burrowable substrate, not using sand or wood chips, or high humidity, these things are much better learned being read off an actual care guide written by someone with actual experience in keeping these animals. Those points are only correct because it took them off of better, more accurate care guides anyway. Or better yet, ask questions and get advice from people who have kept these animals, so you can get an opinion from someone with actual experience who can back up their recommendations or talk about common problems and mistakes.

I love this. It reminds me a lot of writing code in Python. It'll give you something that looks reasonable, but riddled with errors.

 

[Brewser]

Is it Care or Don't Care ?
That is the question...

 

[CRX]

RE: the handling part. AI doesn't know wth its talking about. Tongs? TONGS really? If you used tongs to pick up a scorpion it would probably kill it. What the hell is it talking about? I don't really like the idea of using AI to care for animals for this reason, or the whole concept of "care sheets" in general. Most care sheets you will find online are generic crap.

I would not put my health in the hands of AI, so I would never put animals in the hands of AI either. TONGS???

 

[jadake]

RE: the handling part. AI doesn't know wth its talking about. Tongs? TONGS really? If you used tongs to pick up a scorpion it would probably kill it. What the hell is it talking about? I don't really like the idea of using AI to care for animals for this reason, or the whole concept of "care sheets" in general. Most care sheets you will find online are generic crap.

I would not put my health in the hands of AI, so I would never put animals in the hands of AI either. TONGS???

It should've said oven mitts.

Agreed though. These look very similar with minor changes and some questionable advice within.

Now, with all that said and demonstrating an untrained model is generic at best, misleading at worst, I'm curious if anyone would have interest in an LLM trained specifically on sites like this to gather the information from across the board (and other quality-ish boards), to gather meta data on the care and husbandry of animals?

 

[MorbidArachnid]

RE: the handling part. AI doesn't know wth its talking about. Tongs? TONGS really? If you used tongs to pick up a scorpion it would probably kill it. What the hell is it talking about? I don't really like the idea of using AI to care for animals for this reason, or the whole concept of "care sheets" in general. Most care sheets you will find online are generic crap.

I would not put my health in the hands of AI, so I would never put animals in the hands of AI either. TONGS???

I'm assuming it meant forceps? I've heard them called tongs on occasion. Kinda the problem though, no idea why it's saying that because it has no justification or reason.

 

[CRX]

I'm assuming it meant forceps? I've heard them called tongs on occasion. Kinda the problem though, no idea why it's saying that because it has no justification or reason.

I dont see how forceps would be any safer TBH. You're better off just gently coaxing it into a container with your hand or gently prodding it forward with a stick.

Another mistake I noticed the AI made, it recommended misting for humidity and anyone worth their salt knows misting actually does very little for humidity. It sounds like this AI scraped up a bunch of generic garbage from other probably AI sites.

Also " Every few months, replace the substrate and disinfect the enclosure " I've literally never heard of anyone doing this. Ive never replaced my scorps substrate, he has a network of burrows that he took months to make, and it would displace and kill most of the springtails in the enclosure. Its acting like a scorpion has the same care as a reptile.

 

[MorbidArachnid]

It should've said oven mitts.

Agreed though. These look very similar with minor changes and some questionable advice within.

Now, with all that said and demonstrating an untrained model is generic at best, misleading at worst, I'm curious if anyone would have interest in an LLM trained specifically on sites like this to gather the information from across the board (and other quality-ish boards), to gather meta data on the care and husbandry of animals?

No This isn't a training problem, this is a problem of fundamentally how LLM work with regards to something that is fundamentally subjective and kind of nebulous. There are definitely points of care that are more agreed upon, but looking through this forum you'll see that people with a lot of personal experience still disagree on best practices and what is or isn't required. This is to be expected, "wellness" is a really subjective metric and the animals we're talking about have largely not been studied or experimented on in any professional capacity with regards to that. You end up with many people saying what has worked for them so far, or what people think is best, but not really anything approaching "true husbandry". One of my main problems with the QA system, it tends to assume only one objectively correct answer to husbandry and shoots down any dissenting opinion to that as being incorrect. That's not how we move forward with standards of care, if someone with less experience than me can back up their reasoning behind suggesting or doing something with quality observations or evidence it's in my best interest to listen to them. Trying to boil down all of AB into some objective care guide written by a LLM will not fix this problem. Also, I think it's alright for people to disagree with each other about care practices as long as the disagreements are within "the zone of reasonable disagreement" (as in there's no enough evidence to say for sure either way and it's not provably harmful to the animal). There are some things I feel strongly about that I don't have verifiable evidence for being better, so I'm not going to go around and state it as being an objective fact. I talked about coco fiber earlier, I personally don't like it but I'm not gonna call you abusive or neglectful if you use it. Part of why I like the forum layout so much, it actually allows for discussion.

 

[MorbidArachnid]

Also... and maybe this will get me in trouble a bit with y'all...... but I don't necessarily think care guides on here are inherently more accurate than care guides else where. The same person can post a care guide here and on their website, and it's not like there's a vetting system. I can look up a care guide on an animal I've never kept before and rephrase it onto AB and it'll probably be mostly right, difference with AB is again there's more of a discussion aspect so people can respond to it and call me an idiot but you aren't going to get that from just compiling the care guides people have posted on here.

 

[jadake]

Also... and maybe this will get me in trouble a bit with y'all...... but I don't necessarily think care guides on here are inherently more accurate than care guides else where. The same person can post a care guide here and on their website, and it's not like there's a vetting system. I can look up a care guide on an animal I've never kept before and rephrase it onto AB and it'll probably be mostly right, difference with AB is again there's more of a discussion aspect so people can respond to it and call me an idiot but you aren't going to get that from just compiling the care guides people have posted on here.

You bring up a very good point. As I've been scouring the web looking for as much information as I can about scorpion care, I've noticed quite a few "care sheets" look like they just copy & paste each other with a few tweaks... someone was copying someone's homework!

This is also why it's such a challenge for someone who's a perfectionist (or maximalist?) because I'm trying to find the absolute best way to care for these animals before I purchase my first. Clearly, the "best" way is not yet known and AI doesn't know that; it's just taking what's available and repeating it as gospel truth.

I suppose the best I can do is use reason to do my best and start getting firsthand experience. I'm the type that could analyze what the best hammer is to hit a nail when I should just buy a dang hammer and start using it.

 

[darkness975]

I hate AI.

Don't handle scorpions.

Scorpions are defensive, not aggressive.