Getting a bp very soon:)

SamuraiSid

Arachnodemon
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Messages
758
If all goes to plan, Ill be buying a Ball Python tomorrow and picking him up Friday (after getting everything set-up and more research.) Based upon the copious amount of misinformation Im asking for a little clarification. I know a lot of stuff will be personal preference, but for my first snake, Im looking to keep things stupid simple until I get experience.



All I really know about the snake in question is that its available at my lps and in my budget. Its about a foot long, but I couldnt tell for certain and the employee on duty didnt know squat and was scared to handle it. They have 2, both the same size. Are there any differences between genders I should be aware of, like temperment, etc?? And do you think its possible for a noob to sex by sight? I dont necessarily trust them to be accurate.... Ive bought a couple MF tarantulas that turned out to be juvie males.




Enclosure:
I have read that you should not use aquariums and that there are special racks designed for caring for snakes. I think this is where people pass personal preference as necessary care, but as a noob Ill bring it up anyways. I have a couple empty aquariums, including two 20gs and Im getting a cheap 40g sometime early next week from a guy who used to keep corn snakes. In a pinch Im thinking an aquarium will be sufficient, but maybe a shoebox would be better? OR is an aquarium just fine? I will not be buying a "Snake specific enclosure", but might down the road if I get a couple more;) (I honestly hope Bp's be as addictive as T's)
Also, what size should I aim for in an enclosure?

Heating:
Ive heard a variety of different things from different people. Please feel free to share your how you heat your bp. Im thinking to stay away from heat rocks, and to use a lamp/reflector attached to a thermostat would be ideal? I guess this wouldnt work in a shoebox set-up, but would in an aquarium. Id keep it at one end of the enclosure for a heat gradient.

Feeding:
In regards to live vs. frozen/thawed, Im not interested in hearing about the morality issue. Other than that what are the pro's and con's of each side of this debate? Im under the impression that the snakes are currently feeding on live prey and that it will take some "training" them to take thawed mice.


Substrate:
Heard the best thing is cypress mulch. I have no idea where to get this, so Ill probably have to buy something at the lps, like a jungle floor substrate type. For the life of me I cant remember the brand name, but theyve got a couple different types of substrate thats common. I dont want to use printless newspaper for aesthetic reasons.

Thanks in advance:)
 

lizardminion

Arachnolord
Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Messages
626
Ball pythons are ridiculously easy and amazing reptiles. You definitely will get addicted to them. Ever since month two with my first python, I've been dying to get me another one. I find my python living sufficiently on a simple substrate of (black and white only) newspaper. I find this better as opposed to mulch. (Although it is a good idea to invest a moisturizing substrate depending on your local average humidity) I find frozen rodents only necessary in larger snake collections, of which I lack, and I'm assuming you lack too. Frozen rodents are mainly for easy storage and cheaper prices, but people like them for many other reasons as well. I simple feed freshly killed. Aside from morality concerns, live is mainly frowned upon due to the risk involved for the snake. Anything being preyed upon is obviously frightened, or otherwise stressed out. The mice are going to fight for their life and will do whatever it takes to injure the snake, usually by biting it during constriction. Although the situations vary, most cases aren't lethal as far as the snake is concerned, but minor injuries may leave scars, while severe injuries will leave scars, may lead to infection, and may be life threatening. Plus the pain of a bite is generally, simply unpleasant for the snake, I'm sure. Killing the mice yourself before feeding it to the snake is my preferred option of choice. Its as safe as frozen/thawed, but almost as natural as live mice. (Providing is was killed seconds/minutes before feeding and still retains heat and scent) Just feed using your hand (careful with this one!) or tongs by adding an extra wriggle to make it seem ever so close to the living thing. Non-toxic methods of mice euthanasia can be as peaceful and complicated as CO^2 chambers, or if your moral for mice is a bit lower, a bag and a hard object. Now as far as heat is concerned, in a terrarium setting, you could use a heat lamp(s) to keep the ambient temperature warm and provide basking light. (No UV required.) However, you may also require a heat pad/tape depending on how well the lights are working for you. I, personally, may need one of my own for the coming winter months. Although a thermostat, I believe, isn't needed for heat lamps as I have never heard of them having temp spikes, they are a must if you choose to use heat tape or heat pads. I currently keep my 2ft ball python in a 20 gallon long terrarium with a clasping lid, all either it is a bit over sized for him. Generally, enclosure side can be summed up to this formula: L=2/3(s) x W=1/2(s), s representing the length of the python. A ball python anywhere from 1ft to 2ft long can be started off in 10gal tank. Larger snakes obviously need larger tanks. Most ball pythons never end up out-growing a 20gal "long" but there have been numerous exceptions to this rule. There are no reliable ways of distinguishing a female ball python from male just by glancing alone, however, the accurate method for sexing is either by probing or by popping the hemipenes(small snakes only). Get an experienced keeper to demonstrate and assist you in the process instead of taking matters into your own hands and risking injury to your snake.
I believe I covered everything. If you have any more questions or if I left out anything, feel free to ask. :) If you don't get addicted, then these aren't the pets for you. ;)

-Ryan
 

freedumbdclxvi

Arachnoprince
Joined
May 28, 2012
Messages
1,421
I have had no issues using an aquarium for my bp. Right now, he is in a 20L and I will be moving him to a 30 sometime soon. I have used the tree fern sub for him, and it seems to work quite well. That and a large water dish keep humidity levels high. (Plus he likes soaking in the dish.) As for food, I feed him a live African soft fur mouse on a weekly basis (occasionally skipping a week). I have tried frozen, and he didn't respond for around 6 months. I know I *could* have held out, but I chose not to. As for lighting, I give him a light for a warm basking spot, and a night time light just to keep temps a bit warmer. Overall, they are quite easy going and able to be handled. I imagine I will eventually get a second.
 

SamuraiSid

Arachnodemon
Joined
Sep 30, 2010
Messages
758
Sorry if this is hard to understand, Im one the wifes laptop and I hate typing on this thing.

Thanks for the help. Im certain I wont have any issues what so ever with my bp, but being my first reptile Im a little nervous and want to make sure I get it right. I paid for him and to be picked up on Friday:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D In terms of addictive, Ive went back twice to look at him and, the had a young black Kingsnake I really want as well. First thing first, though LOL.

So, Ive got an aquarium thats 12"x24"x12" and that will be sufficient for him for now. Substrate will be a lot of left over stuf Ive got for my T's, including exo-terra brick moss, peat and coco chunks. Its very similar to what they have him on now, and I like it aesthetically. Plus the manager seems decently knowledgeable and said she hasnt had any mold issues on this substrate.

For heating, Im gonna go with an incandecent bulb or two, but would like some help to know if I need to pay the lps prices, or if I can just hit up a hardware store.

Ive got a $35 gift card (came with the purchase of the snake) so Ill be using that up. Some things I was pricing out include a Ceramic reflector (or ceramic light bulb holder... not sure what they are really called:sarcasm:), 75w basking bulb and a large exo-terra cave.

My thoughts are that Id like to have an incandescent white light for day time heating, and then one of those moonlights for night viewing/ heating, so I also want two reflectors( (not sure if that is the right word as the one Im looking at is ceramic and isnt meant to reflect UV).

While it will be economical for me to just buy some lamps from Wally world, and sit them on top of the screen, and then add a regular 75w incandescdent, and then the second one will house an exo-terra 50w moonlight, im guessing this will do the same thing, or should I go with a basking bulb?

Other than that Ill probably add a manzanita branch/ drift wood under the day light bulb to give the bp the opportunity to get closer to the bulb if it feels it is needed.

For the hide, I dont really have a problem with the exo terra caves, but my budget was just for the snake (I kept in mind the fre $35 gift card), so cheap-o options are best until christmas. Ive seen a pic of someone just using an upside down cardboard box. Can it really be that simple?

Ill be adding a water dish large enough for it to coil and soak in, and probably a fake plant somewhere too.



Based on the wifes allergies and the possibility that the snake wont feed, I dont want live mice in the house, so Im thinking of going frozen. Plus, I moved so the lps is a town over. Freshly killed is still on the table, but Im gonna do some more research on this and the overall feeding thing. Ive been hearing that switching food types, live to dead, mouse to rat, can be tricky, and that they sometimes throw-up there food, and just a whole wack of feeding concerns regarding bp's. Are these myths perpetuated by people who should stick to goldfish, or is there a good deal of truth to the claims? Again, I have no worries about my abilities to care for the animal, I just want accurate info from the get go. Ive also heard that I should be feeding it something equal to the diamter of the snake at its largest point.... approx. 1.25" and that at its current age, twice a week.

For feeding, can I just tong grab the mouse by the tail and shake it a bit to invoke a feeding responce? One lps employee, not the manager, tried to sell me a vibrating dish today and I almost laughed in her face. Maybe I should have? LOL.

Last question... for now;):D

With shedding, how often and is my only concern to not feed it during this time? Ive read on some care sheets that I need to add a second hide with a higher humidity so it has a place to shed comfortably, but that doesnt sound right to me... I could be wrong.

---------- Post added 11-26-2012 at 01:07 PM ----------

I have had no issues using an aquarium for my bp. Right now, he is in a 20L and I will be moving him to a 30 sometime soon. I have used the tree fern sub for him, and it seems to work quite well. That and a large water dish keep humidity levels high. (Plus he likes soaking in the dish.) As for food, I feed him a live African soft fur mouse on a weekly basis (occasionally skipping a week). I have tried frozen, and he didn't respond for around 6 months. I know I *could* have held out, but I chose not to. As for lighting, I give him a light for a warm basking spot, and a night time light just to keep temps a bit warmer. Overall, they are quite easy going and able to be handled. I imagine I will eventually get a second.
I think I will have to double check that they are using live feeders, or find out how they are currently feeding him and will do that for now, and eventually I will try to swap his food over to something more manageable for me. Thanks:)
 
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