G. Pulchripes Husbandry

Stemmy101

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Apr 12, 2020
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97
Hey, all! After some consideration, I think I've finally settled on the Grammostola pulchripes as my first T. But while I wait for this whole quarantine situation to clear up, I'd like to touch up on my husbandry facts first. I have a few questions regarding basic care. For one, I plan to purchase a specimen of approximately 5.5 inches (would this be considered a juvenile for a G. pulchripes?). I was wondering if I could just house it in its permanent enclosure, as it'll probably only grow a few more inches, also so I could avoid rehousing in the future? For this, I would like to order an acrylic 30cm×20cm×15cm (I believe this is the equivalent of about 3 gallons) with cross ventilation. Is this ok, or should I opt for something larger? Additionally, is 4 inches an appropriate amount of substrate?
Also, when it comes to feeding, I think I'd like to exclusively feed mealworms and/or superworms. And occasionally a few crickets. Is this too small of a feeder for this T once it reaches adult size? At 5.5", how many mealworms should I feed at a time, and how many times a week? Once the T reaches adult size, how many should I feed at a time, and how often?
As for humidity and temperature. If I overflow the water dish once every week or two and let it dry out, would this provide sufficient humidity? Generally the temperature of my room fluctuates anywhere from 65 to 78 degrees fahrenheit. I would say most of the time the highest it gets is around 75, but occasionally it'll reach 78. This remains pretty constant all year round. Sometimes on a chilly night, it will drop a few degrees lower, however this doesn't occur too often. Is this alright for temp? I know this species is considered to be pretty hardy, but my main concern is stressing her out. The last thing I want is a stressed, unhappy T.
It'll probably be quite a while until I get everything, because of these strange times. However once I get everything, I'll try and post some pictures to ensure my setup looks accurate before I get my T. I think that pretty much sums up all my concerns. Sorry for the parade of questions lol, I would just like to be as prepared as possible.
Thank you in advance!
 

Liquifin

Laxow Legacy LLC
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5.5 inches (would this be considered a juvenile for a G. pulchripes?)
That's an adult G. pulchripes. And yes, at that size you definitely want to house into a permanent size enclosure. There are many threads on this species, so you can just find them here on the boards, since this is one of the most common beginner species in the hobby. A lot of your questions are most likely answered on here already on older threads, so best to start looking for them. :cigar:
it'll probably only grow a few more inches, also so I could avoid rehousing in the future?
At 5.5'' inches I wouldn't expect it to grow much bigger. Most will hit the 5.5''-6'' as adults, but seeing a 6''+ specimen is quite rare to see for a G. pulchripes. I've yet to see a G. pulchripes bigger than 6'' in person.
 

Stemmy101

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Joined
Apr 12, 2020
Messages
97
That's an adult G. pulchripes. And yes, at that size you definitely want to house into a permanent size enclosure. There are many threads on this species, so you can just find them here on the boards, since this is one of the most common beginner species in the hobby. A lot of your questions are most likely answered on here already on older threads, so best to start looking for them. :cigar:

At 5.5'' inches I wouldn't expect it to grow much bigger. Most will hit the 5.5''-6'' as adults, but seeing a 6''+ specimen is quite rare to see for a G. pulchripes. I've yet to see a G. pulchripes bigger than 6'' in person.
Ok, I'll search around. Sorry if that was a stupid question, I'm not really too familiar with size yet. I need to do more research lol. I think I read that G. pulchripes are typically 7-8" (probably from an inaccurate care sheet, oops) Thanks for the info!

Oh, also, @Liquifin can you tell me how big a G. Pulchripes would be to be considered a juvenile, just so I know from now on?
 

Liquifin

Laxow Legacy LLC
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Oh, also, @Liquifin can you tell me how big a G. Pulchripes would be to be considered a juvenile, just so I know from now on?
That's a simple, but tricky question at the same time. Normally a "juvenile" would be considered a tarantula past the sling stage. But there is no actual set size for a juvenile and species vary on sizes, so it's not definite. Some people say juvenile is a term for a unsexed tarantula that is past the sling stage, so that in itself makes it very confusing for people. I can't tell you a definite size that is considered a juvenile, but it's more of a instinctual thing as you get more into the hobby. As anyone gets more experienced in the hobby, it would be almost instinctual to tell what is a juvenile just by looking at it. I don't want to give exact sizes of what is a juvenile because species sizes and juvenile sizes and the definition is always "debatable". Sorry if it's complicated, but you'll understand the terms and stages of tarantulas as you get more experience with: Slings, Juveniles, Sub-adults, and (Mature) Adults
 

Stemmy101

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Apr 12, 2020
Messages
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That's a simple, but tricky question at the same time. Normally a "juvenile" would be considered a tarantula past the sling stage. But there is no actual set size for a juvenile and species vary on sizes, so it's not definite. Some people say juvenile is a term for a unsexed tarantula that is past the sling stage, so that in itself makes it very confusing for people. I can't tell you a definite size that is considered a juvenile, but it's more of a instinctual thing as you get more into the hobby. As anyone gets more experienced in the hobby, it would be almost instinctual to tell what is a juvenile just by looking at it. I don't want to give exact sizes of what is a juvenile because species sizes and juvenile sizes and the definition is always "debatable". Sorry if it's complicated, but you'll understand the terms and stages of tarantulas as you get more experience with: Slings, Juveniles, Sub-adults, and (Mature) Adults
Thank you for explaining this
 

Stemmy101

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Apr 12, 2020
Messages
97
For a new owner- a T that is 3" is a good start. Adults are harder to come buy of ANY species.
Ok, I will keep this in mind. Thank you. Also, what size enclosure would you recommend for a T around 3"?
 

cold blood

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with cross ventilation
All the recent talk of cross ventilation causes a lot of confusion...generally speaking, this isn't a requirement for all ts, just Avics and ts that are moisture dependent...for those to be kept dry, like G. pulchripes, its not required and they actually would require minimal ventilation for the most part...yours is fine with the cross venting of course though.

? Additionally, is 4 inches an appropriate amount of substrate?
How much sub is almost completely dependent on the enclosure, not the t . It needs to be deep enough to reduce fall risk....there shouldn't be a lot of room between the top and the surface of the substrate.

once it reaches adult size?
To be clear, it would already be adult size, even if its not full sized yet. Ts are considered adults when they are mature...ready to breed....this occurs at sizes sometimes as much as half of adult sizes.

At 5.5", how many mealworms should I feed at a time, and how many times a week? Once the T reaches adult size, how many should I feed at a time, and how often?
Don't over think feeding. They don't need to be fed all that much, but if you feed small prey items, you can feed more often. Pulchripes, when not in pre-molt, are generally fantastic eaters and not very picky.

As a general rule, the more recently it molted, the more (or larger) food you can feed...as it plumps, it will need less food, less often. Fat ts don't really even need to be fed.

Additionally, when you feed large prey items, you really don't need to feed all that often at all, like once or twice a month....smaller items can be fed more often....there is no hard and fast feeding rules....slow feeding schedules are no worse (or better) than heavy feeding schedules for the most part (fast growing slings excluded), healthy ts can be raised either way or anywhere in between....Don't get hung up on schedules, there's no need to be that precise or rigid.

I will say, heavy feeding schedules, lead directly to long fasting periods, and long periods of inactivity and sometimes hiding. You don't need heavy feeding schedules to maximize growth rates either.

As for humidity
Humidity isn't relevant, get he word out of your tarantula vocabulary...just keep it predominantly dry with a water dish.
and temperature
Temps can vary greatly...anything between 68 and 90 is fine...night temps can drop even lower, especially for adults.
Most will hit the 5.5''-6'' as adults,
Females certainly can reach 7", and should be expected to max out over 6".....males generally mature 4-6"
 

viper69

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Ok, I will keep this in mind. Thank you. Also, what size enclosure would you recommend for a T around 3"?
For NW Ts I use ExoTerra Breeder boxes- they stack and have two feeding doors, and a top door. Best out there for their money that are not sterilite.

3” could go with a small or medium size

That's an adult G. pulchripes. And yes, at that size you definitely want to house into a permanent size enclosure. There are many threads on this species, so you can just find them here on the boards, since this is one of the most common beginner species in the hobby. A lot of your questions are most likely answered on here already on older threads, so best to start looking for them. :cigar:

At 5.5'' inches I wouldn't expect it to grow much bigger. Most will hit the 5.5''-6'' as adults, but seeing a 6''+ specimen is quite rare to see for a G. pulchripes. I've yet to see a G. pulchripes bigger than 6'' in person.
Next time my AF stretches out I’ll measure. I think she’s over 6”. Her last molt she gained some nice mass and size.
 

Stemmy101

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Joined
Apr 12, 2020
Messages
97
I have my (about) 3" vagans and 2.5" boehmei in 8x8x8 cubes with deep sub

I also have a 2.5" albo in a 8x8x12 (has a burrow). I like the horizontal dimensions of all these tanks for the sizes of the tarantulas
Thank you, I'll keep this in mind

All the recent talk of cross ventilation causes a lot of confusion...generally speaking, this isn't a requirement for all ts, just Avics and ts that are moisture dependent...for those to be kept dry, like G. pulchripes, its not required and they actually would require minimal ventilation for the most part...yours is fine with the cross venting of course though.


How much sub is almost completely dependent on the enclosure, not the t . It needs to be deep enough to reduce fall risk....there shouldn't be a lot of room between the top and the surface of the substrate.


To be clear, it would already be adult size, even if its not full sized yet. Ts are considered adults when they are mature...ready to breed....this occurs at sizes sometimes as much as half of adult sizes.


Don't over think feeding. They don't need to be fed all that much, but if you feed small prey items, you can feed more often. Pulchripes, when not in pre-molt, are generally fantastic eaters and not very picky.

As a general rule, the more recently it molted, the more (or larger) food you can feed...as it plumps, it will need less food, less often. Fat ts don't really even need to be fed.

Additionally, when you feed large prey items, you really don't need to feed all that often at all, like once or twice a month....smaller items can be fed more often....there is no hard and fast feeding rules....slow feeding schedules are no worse (or better) than heavy feeding schedules for the most part (fast growing slings excluded), healthy ts can be raised either way or anywhere in between....Don't get hung up on schedules, there's no need to be that precise or rigid.

I will say, heavy feeding schedules, lead directly to long fasting periods, and long periods of inactivity and sometimes hiding. You don't need heavy feeding schedules to maximize growth rates either.



Humidity isn't relevant, get he word out of your tarantula vocabulary...just keep it predominantly dry with a water dish.

Temps can vary greatly...anything between 68 and 90 is fine...night temps can drop even lower, especially for adults.

Females certainly can reach 7", and should be expected to max out over 6".....males generally mature 4-6"
Thanks for your input. I'll try not to get so hung up on humidity and temperature. If I solely feed mealworms for an adult T, do you think that would be appropriate or would you recommend upgrading to, say, crickets?

For NW Ts I use ExoTerra Breeder boxes- they stack and have two feeding doors, and a top door. Best out there for their money that are not sterilite.

3” could go with a small or medium size
Ok, I'll check them out. Thanks!
 
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