easy 1st reptiles

[seacowst]

i want to get a pet for my self and lil brother and im looking for something easy.any idea? and no turtles!!!

 

[lizardminion]

How old are you and your brother?

 

[stingray]

I would have to say bearded dragons is one of the easiest to keep.

 

[Hayden]

But beardeds need a lot of work. I would recommend a leopard gecko, a crested gecko, a ball python, or a corn snake.

 

[satchellwk]

Either a leopard gecko, if you want a lizard, or a Kenyan sand boa, if you want a snake. Neither require UV light, both can live happily in relatively small enclosures (10 gallon aquarium is fine), neither are insanely expensive, and both are really easy to feed. All you need for either of them is an enclosure, heat pad, substrate, hide, food and water. Also, both are very docile and great for handling. I have both and absolutely love them!

 

[pitbulllady]

Snakes are going to be easier than any of the lizards, turtles or other reptiles. If you go with a native Colubrid, you don't have to worry about special heating or lighting, especially seeing that you live in FL. Most snakes eat only once per week, and poop once per week. Most will eat already-dead prey, making storage of frozen food easy. You can't go wrong with a Corn Snake, and there are a lot of morphs to choose from in captive-bred Corns, so if one color doesn't appeal to you, another probably will. You actually have some really great native snakes down in FL, including Corns, and also Yellow Rats, Gray Rats("White Oak snakes"), as well as Eastern Chain Kings, Blotched Kings, and FL Kings, all of which are first-rate beginner snakes. If you don't want a snake that eats rodents, there are several Water Snake species and Garter and Ribbon Snakes, including the bright blue Garters and Ribbons that the state is known for, and the lovely hypomelanistic FL Banded Water Snakes, if you don't mind a bit more-frequent feedings and clean up.

If you're going to go with a lizard, keep in mind that most lizards do require specialized UVB lighting and calcium supplementation. An exception are some of the nocturnal Gecko species, like the Cresteds, who do not need the UVB, but will still need specialized food. Bearded Dragons are sweet, but need large enclosures and require specialized lighting AND supplements, and they are messy, so frequent cage cleaning is a must. They also need a lot of supplemental heat, and all those bulbs and heat mats and light fixtures can get expensive. Most lizards also need to eat daily, so there's the expense with feeding involved, too. Even the lowest-maintainance lizards are more work than a medium-maintainance snake, like a Ball Python.

pitbulllady

 

[Anthony Jensen]

i defiantly agree with satchell, kenyan sand boas are awesome! and if you're planning on breeding they give live young, which is pretty awesome.

 

[Hayden]

An adult Kenyan cannot live in a ten gallon. Females reach 2-3 feet and they are thick. You need at least a 20 long. A ten isn't really even sufficient to set up a temperature gradient. Sand boas also have tendency to be squirmy and jerky, not an ideal pet, especially if where beginners and children are involved. Almost all of my sand boas have to be fed live because they are so picky; they're notoriously finicky eaters. They're also prone to shed problems. I do not recommend a KSB as a first snake at all.

 

[hamhock 74]

Crested gecko, but give them Repashy Crested Gecko mix. Baby food is one of the worst things you can feed them

 

[RS4guy]

Just PLEASE do yourself and your pet a favor and purchase a UVB light, this is one of the most widely overlooked aspects in keeping reptiles. I would vote an easy gecko, or perhaps a few anoles to start. I think beardies are hardy, but not a good choice for a first reptile IMO....

 

[pitbulllady]

Just PLEASE do yourself and your pet a favor and purchase a UVB light, this is one of the most widely overlooked aspects in keeping reptiles. I would vote an easy gecko, or perhaps a few anoles to start. I think beardies are hardy, but not a good choice for a first reptile IMO....

Snakes do not require UVB, and I've kept and bred snakes for almost 50 years now, successfully, without one single UVB light. They didn't even make those when I started keeping snakes. Not all lizards require UVB light, either. Nocturnal Geckoes, like Cresteds, aren't exposed to sunlight in the wild since they come out after the sun has gone down, so they are adapted to living without UVB. I know many breeders of Cresteds and other nocturnal species, who do not use UVB. There is a lot of new research now that shows that monitors also can do quite well without it. One of the criteria for ME listing a species as a good "beginner" species would be that it requires few extra purchases to keep it alive and healthy. Bearded Dragons are one of the species that definitely does NOT fall within that category, and they aren't as hardy as you might think for a desert species. They absolutely do need UVB, and high temperatures, and aren't forgiving when something is left out. They need daily feeding, consisting of both insects and fresh veggies, and preparing the veggies every day and disposing of uneaten portions is time consuming. It takes a lot of dedication to do that, and most novice keepers simply don't have that time or dedication. I'm a long-time keeper, like I said, but most lizards are just too much work for me. If all I had to do was stay home and care for the lizard, fine, but juggling that between work, tons of paperwork, and other animals, housework, etc. would get "old" really fast. That's why I stick to snakes and inverts. Most Colubrid snakes have few specialized requirements, become very docile and handleable, making them easy keepers. I don't know how old the OP and his "little bro" are, but I suspect that neither is of voting age, so the least expense involved in proper care of the animal, the better. It's just cheaper and easier to feed a snake one dead mouse per week than to feed a lizard live insects and fresh veggies every day, with calcium/vitamin supplements, or to buy expensive commercial food like Repashy Crested Gecko diet for daily feeding when you are a kid.

pitbulllady

 

[satchellwk]

An adult Kenyan cannot live in a ten gallon. Females reach 2-3 feet and they are thick. You need at least a 20 long. A ten isn't really even sufficient to set up a temperature gradient. Sand boas also have tendency to be squirmy and jerky, not an ideal pet, especially if where beginners and children are involved. Almost all of my sand boas have to be fed live because they are so picky; they're notoriously finicky eaters. They're also prone to shed problems. I do not recommend a KSB as a first snake at all.

I suppose I should have specified male; I agree a full-grown female would be on the cramped side in a 10 gallon. I don't know about being squirmy, though; mine is very docile when handled, as were all the ones I've handled before (ones at both breeders and in pet stores). I've also never heard of shed problems, but shouldn't be anything some warm water and a towel can't fix. Also, pickyness really depends on the individual; I know that the breeder that mine comes from sells theirs guaranteed to be either live or f/t feeders. I wold say they require more care than, say, a corn, but they still make great first snakes, and very beautiful ones at that.

 

[RS4guy]

Snakes do not require UVB, and I've kept and bred snakes for almost 50 years now, successfully, without one single UVB light. They didn't even make those when I started keeping snakes. Not all lizards require UVB light, either. Nocturnal Geckoes, like Cresteds, aren't exposed to sunlight in the wild since they come out after the sun has gone down, so they are adapted to living without UVB. I know many breeders of Cresteds and other nocturnal species, who do not use UVB. There is a lot of new research now that shows that monitors also can do quite well without it. One of the criteria for ME listing a species as a good "beginner" species would be that it requires few extra purchases to keep it alive and healthy. Bearded Dragons are one of the species that definitely does NOT fall within that category, and they aren't as hardy as you might think for a desert species. They absolutely do need UVB, and high temperatures, and aren't forgiving when something is left out. They need daily feeding, consisting of both insects and fresh veggies, and preparing the veggies every day and disposing of uneaten portions is time consuming. It takes a lot of dedication to do that, and most novice keepers simply don't have that time or dedication. I'm a long-time keeper, like I said, but most lizards are just too much work for me. If all I had to do was stay home and care for the lizard, fine, but juggling that between work, tons of paperwork, and other animals, housework, etc. would get "old" really fast. That's why I stick to snakes and inverts. Most Colubrid snakes have few specialized requirements, become very docile and handleable, making them easy keepers. I don't know how old the OP and his "little bro" are, but I suspect that neither is of voting age, so the least expense involved in proper care of the animal, the better. It's just cheaper and easier to feed a snake one dead mouse per week than to feed a lizard live insects and fresh veggies every day, with calcium/vitamin supplements, or to buy expensive commercial food like Repashy Crested Gecko diet for daily feeding when you are a kid.

pitbulllady

I wouldn't consider any snake beginner. And I know not all sp. need UVB, but many do, and it is widely overlooked. Also, I was NOT suggesting a beardie, I have one, and they are easy, but I would go with something less demanding to start.

 

[Shrike]

I wouldn't consider any snake beginner. And I know not all sp. need UVB, but many do, and it is widely overlooked. Also, I was NOT suggesting a beardie, I have one, and they are easy, but I would go with something less demanding to start.

You don't think any snake is appropriate for a beginner? Why?

 

[pitbulllady]

You don't think any snake is appropriate for a beginner? Why?

Yeah, I'm eagerly awaiting the answer to THAT myself.

Let's see, native Colubrids-need no specialized lighting or heating, just a proper enclosure, a water bowl, a ready supply of newspaper substrate, and a "hide", and a supply of appropriately-sized frozen rodents. Eat once per week, on average. Poops once per week, on average. Don't make noise. If the family goes on vacation for a week, no need to find a "snake sitter", as a snake will be just fine left alone with just its water bowl for that period of time.

Nocturnal Gecko or similar lizard-need arboreal-type set-up, should be misted every other day, a heat source, feed on expensive specialized diet and live insects, have to be fed daily, poop daily, must be handled carefully to avoid autolizing tail, CAN be vocal/noisy with some species. If you're going on vacation for say, a week, you better have someone to look after the lizard who knows what they are doing.

In terms of ease/expense of care, I can't see how a lizard is a better choice.

pitbulllady

 

[Furret]

Get a few anoles, they're great beginner herps. Once you get the hang of them, go for a leopard gecko. Then a bearded dragon or a ball python, or a corn snake. But the last three are a bit more hardy than the anoles, so like I said, try to go for some anoles first. Good luck!!

 

[Thistles]

Get a few anoles, they're great beginner herps. Once you get the hang of them, go for a leopard gecko. Then a bearded dragon or a ball python, or a corn snake. But the last three are a bit more hardy than the anoles, so like I said, try to go for some anoles first. Good luck!!

I disagree. Anoles require specialized lighting, high humidity and lots of room. They also need live insect food.

So I actually add something to this thread (or just repeat what has been said...) I would suggest a crested gecko for a starter lizard. Can't beat a reptile that eats prepackaged food! They also don't need high heat or UVB lighting.

Snakes can also be among the easiest pets out there, depending on species. Corns or kings are awesome starter pets. I am totally with pitbulllady on this one. Snakes not a beginner herp? LOL.

 

[Najakeeper]

If you are beginner and have limited time/cash, stay away from lizards.

Get a subadult corn snake and a 50 pack of appropriate size frozen rodents, which translates to a year of spending no extra cash on your pet. After a year of cornsnake experience and appropriate research, if you wanna diversify, go for it.