Dumb ball python feeding question

David_F

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I just got a hatchling ball python a few weeks ago and was curious about what size feeder to give her. I've done searches on numerous sites but, of course, everyone says "feed an appropriate size mouse or rat". I kind of figured as much. Anywho, I started her on f/t hopper mice as recommended by the shop. It did leave a decent size lump but within 36-48 hours she'd defecate (not much substance, mostly urates) and even before that she seemed to be out looking for food. I'm thinking of moving her to rats but wanted to find out what a good size for her would be.

Thanks for any advice.
 

chris73

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I would stick with the smaller feeders and offer 2 meals (spread apart) every 10 days for a growing Ball. The food items should leave a noticable (but small) lump in the animal. Be more thankful your hatchling is feeding! That can be the hardest part with baby Balls! Once started they will always be hungry, but I'm not into power feeding. It takes me 3 years to grow my Ball's to full size, but they are all very healthy. Ball's are still my favorite species and I wish you luck with yours.
 

David_F

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Thanks for the info, Chris. I was afraid I was under-feeding her as I tend to do with the other snakes I've had. :eek:

I got lucky with her. She was a non-feeder when I got her but she took f/t right off the bat. The last BP I had (about ten years ago) was a pain in the ass to get to eat.
 

chris73

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IMO, as long as the animal in not noticably thin, you are not underfeeding. I think slow growth is fine. As long as the feeders are high quality (feed a nutrient rich diet) your animal will be healthy.
 

Beardo

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I would get your BP onto rats ASAP. Mice may be fine for a while, but once it becomes too large for the biggest mice, you'll wish you'd switched it over sooner. The longer you wait, the harder it gets to switch them.
 

David_F

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What size rats would you recommend? I'll probably try to get her to take something bigger than a hopper mouse at her next feeding to see how she handles it but don't want to go too big.

Thanks
 

bengerno

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My adult female doesn't eat nothing since october (when I bought her), I tried frozen and living mice/rats..nothing happened, but when I took a hopper mouse in her box, she ate it immediately :)
So I think size of the food doesn't matter If you give her enough. :D
For a hatchling BP hopper mouse is enough, or same size rat babies.
 

Beardo

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Go with either a crawler/fuzzy rat or a small rat pup.
 

greenfiremajick

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Isn't that the truth?? What's the record for4 a ball off food?? Something like 22 months, isn't it??


T


chris73 said:
I would stick with the smaller feeders and offer 2 meals (spread apart) every 10 days for a growing Ball. The food items should leave a noticable (but small) lump in the animal. Be more thankful your hatchling is feeding! That can be the hardest part with baby Balls! Once started they will always be hungry, but I'm not into power feeding. It takes me 3 years to grow my Ball's to full size, but they are all very healthy. Ball's are still my favorite species and I wish you luck with yours.
 

Ishkabibble

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David F, remember a real important rule for selecting feeder size for your snake. It should not be bigger than the largest girth that your snake currently is. I have 3 balls that are different sizes. I feed my 4 footer an adult rat every 10 days, the 2 footer an adult mouse every 7-10 days depending on her behavior, and a hatchling I rescued from a pet store, a pinky every 7 days. It may be a little on the small size, but it wouldn't eat for the store, so I'm easing it into eating. This poor snake was such bad shape, I had to tube feed it for two weeks just to gets its strength up so it could eat solid food. It was dehydrated so I explained how to rehydrate it, but they chose to soak it in Gatorade instead (it must have been based on some sort of osmosis rehydration theory I haven't heard of). So the fact it's still alive is amazing. Just remember the girth rule, watch your snakes habits and you'll catch on soon enough. Good luck, let us know if you have anymore questions.
 

David_F

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Just a bit of an update.

Thanks for all the info and suggestions everyone. "She" is actually a he. I guess when he was popped it was done improperly or whatever. Either way, I'm happy with him. On the next feeding day after my original post I fed him a very small adult mouse and it caused no problems. I've decided to stick with hopper mice for now until I get some rats though. Hopefully I'll be able to get some pics soon.

Thanks again.
 

Jmadson13

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How is the temperature? most ball pythons won't feed readily if allowed to drop below 80 degrees even at night. I've found a mid 90 hot end with a cooler end low 80's to be perfect. I'd also recommend switching to ratpups whenever possible. Balls are otherwise finicky eaters but it should'nt be that big of a problem when they're young. Sexually mature males on the otherhand, well all I can say is be ready for the long haul when this guy gets bigger.
 

David_F

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brigebane said:
How is the temperature? most ball pythons won't feed readily if allowed to drop below 80 degrees even at night. I've found a mid 90 hot end with a cooler end low 80's to be perfect. I'd also recommend switching to ratpups whenever possible. Balls are otherwise finicky eaters but it should'nt be that big of a problem when they're young. Sexually mature males on the otherhand, well all I can say is be ready for the long haul when this guy gets bigger.
Thanks. Temps are great and he's feeding just fine. Actually, he'd probably eat every day if I threw a mouse in. He's been a glutton so far. :D
 

Beardo

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brigebane said:
How is the temperature? most ball pythons won't feed readily if allowed to drop below 80 degrees even at night. I've found a mid 90 hot end with a cooler end low 80's to be perfect. I'd also recommend switching to ratpups whenever possible. Balls are otherwise finicky eaters but it should'nt be that big of a problem when they're young. Sexually mature males on the otherhand, well all I can say is be ready for the long haul when this guy gets bigger.
Say what? Mid 90's on the hot end? Do you have any knowledge of Ball Pythons' natural behavior or environment? Just because it is 95 in Ghana, doesn't mean thats what you should keep your snake at. Ball Pythons are seclusive snakes who dwell underground 90% of the time. I've talked to several people who field collect Ball Pythons and they don't find them anywhere near temps of 95....they are in animal burrows or other underground cooler spots.

An ideal temperature gradient for a Ball Python is 78-86. To say that a BP won't eat if the temps drop below 80 is just rediculous. Maybe you have a problem with finicky eaters because you're cooking your snakes. :?
 

Jmadson13

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DavidBeard said:
Say what? Mid 90's on the hot end? Do you have any knowledge of Ball Pythons' natural behavior or environment? Just because it is 95 in Ghana, doesn't mean thats what you should keep your snake at. Ball Pythons are seclusive snakes who dwell underground 90% of the time. I've talked to several people who field collect Ball Pythons and they don't find them anywhere near temps of 95....they are in animal burrows or other underground cooler spots.

An ideal temperature gradient for a Ball Python is 78-86. To say that a BP won't eat if the temps drop below 80 is just rediculous. Maybe you have a problem with finicky eaters because you're cooking your snakes. :?
I personally havn't had any problems with finickyness in my balls and associated that with high temperatures. A hot spot of 90-93 has been perfectly adequate as long as they have been allowed to escape to the cooler end of the tank. This hasn't hampered the snakes in any way. I was just stating that at cool temperatures, anything below 78-80 ball pythons won't be interested in food.
 

Beardo

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I was just stating that at cool temperatures, anything below 78-80 ball pythons won't be interested in food.
Well, this is a false statement.
 

Jmadson13

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Well we all have different opinions.I'm sorry if I stepped on any toes. I've had no problems caring for my snakes however and don't enjoy the presumption that I'm just blowing smoke instead of offering advice
 
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