- Joined
- Aug 18, 2004
- Messages
- 2,239
I wrote this up for a couple people and figured others might enjoy it.
A few folk have asked husbandry questions. I am no means an expert on these guys but do pride myself in sifting through husbandry knowledge and experience and determining what has worked for people, while doing my best not to spread any myths.
Blue tongues are very easy to keep. Their are various websites on the net with care info, but really a lot of people do things for their animals just because it makes them feel better, not necessarily because it is good for the animals. I won't discount other methods of care, or criticize people for giving their animals more, but no observable difference has been seen in offering them more. The needs of blue tongue skinks are very simple.
Blue tongues preferred body temperature when active is about 30C
Behavioral regulation of internal temperature in the lizard Tiliqua scincoides
, so they need a way to warm up to at least that, preferably a little more. I simply use a UTH(the ultratherms from Bean Farm that are low wattage and do not require a thermostat if set up correctly). Another good option that many prefer would be a low wattage incandescent bulb-but a few breeders have had success with setups using strictly belly heat like you would for snakes...their may be psychological benefits to overhead basking lights and that is the current trend in husbandry. I just take my animals outdoors every so often-like to the beach. At least I enjoy watching them frolic in the sand, and they do seem to enjoy exploring. Depending on room temp I may turn the heat off at night, or even not use it at all-like this time of year if the room temp gets into the 80's. Of course the heat should be placed on one side of the cage so the bluetongue can move from a warm to a cool area depending on what it wants. Watching their behavior can help you determine what they want-an animal that never goes to the heated side could be telling you the basking spot is too hot-and an animal that is glued to the warm side might appreciate the temperature a little warmer-which could be accomplished by adding a hide on the warm side to trap heat better. A digital temp gun(Lowes has one right now for $20)is also useful. These guys usually slow down during the winter...and I do not feed mine from about late october till february-march. Some people turn off the heat completely during this time, but make sure it does not get below 60 degrees for long. I personally turn on the heat at least once a week to allow the animals to warm up and make sure they are ok-in the wild this subspecies does not experience cold winters-only a dry season. First year animals can be kept up and feeding over winter but often slow down due to background temps.
Some people outline very complicated diets for blue tongues. Several of the top breeders in the US and Australia, however, keep their animals on canned dog food(a lot of folk like pedigree). People vary with how often they mix in vegetables, but I know at least one or two have kept animals over 15 years on nothing but dogfood, so it isn't necessary. I usually get the weight management flavor or any flavor that I notice extra veggies in. Babies don't like veggies and I don't see any reason to try to feed them that. I do powder the dog food with a calcium supplement with Vit D3, and most use a multivitamin as well(you could simply use extra Repashy calcium plus from the dartfrogs). Improper diet can lead to issues with MBD and deformities, so I feel it is best for new keepers to stick with the time tested dog food diet. I don't think reptiles need a Ca
ratio much higher than dogs, but I do it because everyone else does and it seems to work ok. I feed babies every few days, but adults really only need to eat once a week. People with picky bluetongues feed them too often. You can offer treats(mine like blueberries, chopped wax peppers, superworms, etc. etc.) if you like. I managed to target train one of mine using superworms.
For babies, little sweaterboxes work well. A full grown adult(and babies will be almost that size in a year) should have a cage about 3 feet in length-they can be very active so if you provide larger cages they will definitely use them. Height is a non issue. In fact, one Aussie breeder keeps his animals in cages only 6 inches high...this prevents spinal kinking from endlessly climbing the sides of the cage(most captive males have this to some minor degree-even when kept in large cages they still do this during breeding season). I use large plastic tubs with holes punched in the lids for my adults...but screen topped glass cages are better for display.
Substrate can be paper towels(for babies), aspen shavings, cypress mulch, or even just newsprint(some report issues with dry feet and staining-I think this depends on climate and husbandry methods). One long time breeder cuts pieces of astroturf to fit his cages and has great success(and zero risk of the animals swallowing stuff). Your area is fairly humid, so any of these substrates would work. In some areas where the climate is very dry the animals will get dry belly scales unless provided with a humid hide or a moisture retaining substrate like cypress mulch. I lay down a layer of paper(old school assignments), followed with aspen shavings. I provide a couple cardboard boxes or T shirts for shelter. A kleenex box with some damp shavings in it makes a great humid hide. Use a dog bowl as a water dish, the high rim keeps animals from kicking shavings into it as much. I provide meals on pieces of scrap cardboard or paper, but food dishes, paper plates, and removing animals for feeding time works for other folk. Providing a rock, brick, or similar hard rough surface allows for the nails to be naturally filed down...animals kept otherwise may require nail trimming to keep the nails from growing too long.
A final note may be appropriate on handling/personalities. Babies tend to be angry at the world and will often hiss, display their tongues, and bite at first-making new keepers worried their animal will remain like this. Don't despair! Almost all CBB animals will calm down over time-i don't know if handling them when young helps but I think so. From the animals I've seen males tend to be more exploratory and bold, but both sexes can become very tame. Even the tamest of animals will expel a puff of air when startled("huffing"). My male has been part of various educational presentations and has probably interacted with thousands of people at this point.
__________________
A few folk have asked husbandry questions. I am no means an expert on these guys but do pride myself in sifting through husbandry knowledge and experience and determining what has worked for people, while doing my best not to spread any myths.
Blue tongues are very easy to keep. Their are various websites on the net with care info, but really a lot of people do things for their animals just because it makes them feel better, not necessarily because it is good for the animals. I won't discount other methods of care, or criticize people for giving their animals more, but no observable difference has been seen in offering them more. The needs of blue tongue skinks are very simple.
Blue tongues preferred body temperature when active is about 30C
Behavioral regulation of internal temperature in the lizard Tiliqua scincoides
, so they need a way to warm up to at least that, preferably a little more. I simply use a UTH(the ultratherms from Bean Farm that are low wattage and do not require a thermostat if set up correctly). Another good option that many prefer would be a low wattage incandescent bulb-but a few breeders have had success with setups using strictly belly heat like you would for snakes...their may be psychological benefits to overhead basking lights and that is the current trend in husbandry. I just take my animals outdoors every so often-like to the beach. At least I enjoy watching them frolic in the sand, and they do seem to enjoy exploring. Depending on room temp I may turn the heat off at night, or even not use it at all-like this time of year if the room temp gets into the 80's. Of course the heat should be placed on one side of the cage so the bluetongue can move from a warm to a cool area depending on what it wants. Watching their behavior can help you determine what they want-an animal that never goes to the heated side could be telling you the basking spot is too hot-and an animal that is glued to the warm side might appreciate the temperature a little warmer-which could be accomplished by adding a hide on the warm side to trap heat better. A digital temp gun(Lowes has one right now for $20)is also useful. These guys usually slow down during the winter...and I do not feed mine from about late october till february-march. Some people turn off the heat completely during this time, but make sure it does not get below 60 degrees for long. I personally turn on the heat at least once a week to allow the animals to warm up and make sure they are ok-in the wild this subspecies does not experience cold winters-only a dry season. First year animals can be kept up and feeding over winter but often slow down due to background temps.
Some people outline very complicated diets for blue tongues. Several of the top breeders in the US and Australia, however, keep their animals on canned dog food(a lot of folk like pedigree). People vary with how often they mix in vegetables, but I know at least one or two have kept animals over 15 years on nothing but dogfood, so it isn't necessary. I usually get the weight management flavor or any flavor that I notice extra veggies in. Babies don't like veggies and I don't see any reason to try to feed them that. I do powder the dog food with a calcium supplement with Vit D3, and most use a multivitamin as well(you could simply use extra Repashy calcium plus from the dartfrogs). Improper diet can lead to issues with MBD and deformities, so I feel it is best for new keepers to stick with the time tested dog food diet. I don't think reptiles need a Ca
ratio much higher than dogs, but I do it because everyone else does and it seems to work ok. I feed babies every few days, but adults really only need to eat once a week. People with picky bluetongues feed them too often. You can offer treats(mine like blueberries, chopped wax peppers, superworms, etc. etc.) if you like. I managed to target train one of mine using superworms.For babies, little sweaterboxes work well. A full grown adult(and babies will be almost that size in a year) should have a cage about 3 feet in length-they can be very active so if you provide larger cages they will definitely use them. Height is a non issue. In fact, one Aussie breeder keeps his animals in cages only 6 inches high...this prevents spinal kinking from endlessly climbing the sides of the cage(most captive males have this to some minor degree-even when kept in large cages they still do this during breeding season). I use large plastic tubs with holes punched in the lids for my adults...but screen topped glass cages are better for display.
Substrate can be paper towels(for babies), aspen shavings, cypress mulch, or even just newsprint(some report issues with dry feet and staining-I think this depends on climate and husbandry methods). One long time breeder cuts pieces of astroturf to fit his cages and has great success(and zero risk of the animals swallowing stuff). Your area is fairly humid, so any of these substrates would work. In some areas where the climate is very dry the animals will get dry belly scales unless provided with a humid hide or a moisture retaining substrate like cypress mulch. I lay down a layer of paper(old school assignments), followed with aspen shavings. I provide a couple cardboard boxes or T shirts for shelter. A kleenex box with some damp shavings in it makes a great humid hide. Use a dog bowl as a water dish, the high rim keeps animals from kicking shavings into it as much. I provide meals on pieces of scrap cardboard or paper, but food dishes, paper plates, and removing animals for feeding time works for other folk. Providing a rock, brick, or similar hard rough surface allows for the nails to be naturally filed down...animals kept otherwise may require nail trimming to keep the nails from growing too long.
A final note may be appropriate on handling/personalities. Babies tend to be angry at the world and will often hiss, display their tongues, and bite at first-making new keepers worried their animal will remain like this. Don't despair! Almost all CBB animals will calm down over time-i don't know if handling them when young helps but I think so. From the animals I've seen males tend to be more exploratory and bold, but both sexes can become very tame. Even the tamest of animals will expel a puff of air when startled("huffing"). My male has been part of various educational presentations and has probably interacted with thousands of people at this point.
__________________
