[Beginner] Should I be worried about urticating hairs?

[PhilMcWonder]

You should've read the replies above, I already apologized about not giving the proper scientific name, I didn't even repeat the word "Fireleg" after saying it once, in the facebook group (Tarantula buy and sell) that I joined, the only Tarantula they address as Fireleg is B. Boehmei so I thought it was the same in this forum, they call other Brachypelmas as fire knee or red knee, I never thought that this forum can be strict about the namings. Sorry, I know that common names are useless but I got used to it so I'm really sorry. Thanks for answering my questions though.

Get use to that XD People on here are sticklers for scientific names... But he is right. I called my T a pink toe not knowing there were like 10 different pink toes out there.
Any time you use the common name people will always think "Mexican red Knee? WHICH ONE?!". I didn't know that until I got to this website either. You will learn all the ins and outs though

there ARE some exceptions. For example I am told that the GBB (Green Bottle Blue) Is the only tarantula in its family, so no confusion there.

 

[gregg097]

Get use to that XD People on here are sticklers for scientific names... But he is right. I called my T a pink toe not knowing there were like 10 different pink toes out there.
Any time you use the common name people will always think "Mexican red Knee? WHICH ONE?!". I didn't know that until I got to this website either. You will learn all the ins and outs though

there ARE some exceptions. For example I am told that the GBB (Green Bottle Blue) Is the only tarantula in its family, so no confusion there.

Alright, thanks!

 

[The Grym Reaper]

You should've read the replies above, I already apologized about not giving the proper scientific name

Granted, I only briefly skimmed through a few replies before posting but it bears repeating and with a full explanation for anyone else who might read this thread in future.

Thanks for answering my questions though.

No problemo

 

[Ungoliant]

So I should just wear gloves when cleaning the enclosure and use tongs when feeding them?

That's what I do.

And last question, I know I shouldn't be in a hurry to have lots of them but I find other Tarantula species beautiful like Nhandu Chromatus, Ephebopus Murinus, Grammostola Pulchra and GBB, if I gain enough experience in Tarantula caring with dociles ones, what would be your advice when I get those four species that I mentioned?

Any of those would make a good second tarantula with the exception of Ephebopus murinus, which tends to be defensive and is usually a pet hole. (As a new keeper, you'll learn more from a tarantula you regularly see.)

Grammostola pulchra is especially docile, one of my favorite species to keep. (It would make a fine first tarantula too.) The two I mentioned that have never flicked hairs at me are my two pulchras.


Nhandu chromatus is similar to Acanthoscurria geniculata in temperament and care. (They're not defensive, but they have a very enthusiastic food response, so don't put your fingers in the enclosure.) Some of their substrate should be slightly damp.

Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens is a little faster and skittish but is still beginner-friendly, especially as a second or third tarantula. It makes elaborate webbing and is kept on dry substrate with lots of anchor points for webbing.


Some beginner advice I have shared before

Enclosure

The basic setup for Brachypelma, Grammostola, and Nhandu would be similar: some substrate, a place to hide, and a water dish.

Coconut fiber (or coir) is a very common substrate. If you buy the compressed bricks, you will have to hydrate, break up, and then dry them before use. This is a hassle, so if I want coir, I usually pay extra for the loose, dry bags.

Topsoil and peat also work, and you can mix different substrates together to alter the texture and moisture retention. Just make sure whatever you get does not contain any pesticides, fertilizers, fungicides, etc.

Do not use wood chips, and do not use any furnishings made of cedar or pine. Wood chips are abrasive and unsuitable for burrowing; your tarantula could also impale itself during a fall. Cedar and pine are thought to have insecticidal properties and is known to irritate the respiratory tracts of some animals.

In most cases, there is no need to worry about temperature with these species. Any temperature that you're comfortable in while wearing normal indoor clothing is generally fine. Don't waste your money on a heating mat or heating lamp.

Bulky terrestrial species are particularly vulnerable to falls. Falls from more than a few inches, especially onto a hard surface, can rupture their abdomens, which is often lethal.

Make sure the vertical space (the distance between the top of the substrate and the bottom of the lid) does not exceed 1.5 times the tarantula's diagonal legspan. (Even terrestrial tarantulas will climb from time to time, but they're not very good climbers, so you want to limit the distance they can possibly fall.)

You should also include a hide. The best hides are light-weight (in case she undermines the hide, so it won't crush her), do not have a surface that is jagged or sharp (in case she falls onto it), and don't have a bottom, so they can dig deeper if they want. Cork is a very common hide, as it meets all of these criteria, but there are many options that will work.

Whatever you end up using as a hide, bury most of it and dig out the entrance as a starter burrow. They will excavate more space if they need it, but they don't seem to figure out that they can move substrate into a hide that's too big.

Feeding

The ideal meal size is no bigger than the tarantula's abdomen. If you have slings, you can dice mealworms or give them cricket drumsticks. (Slings will often scavenge on pre-killed prey.)

These species have slow metabolisms, so you only need to feed juveniles and adults 2-4 times a month (depending on the size of the meal). Try to avoid overfeeding, as a fat tarantula is more vulnerable to falls and may scrape its abdomen while dragging it around. (Slings, however, can be fed as much as they will eat. I generally feed mine about twice a week.)

As a new keeper, I used crickets, because I only needed a few, and they are readily available in pet stores. Now that I have a few more tarantulas (fifteen), I have been moving away from crickets, as they smell bad and don't seem to be very hardy. But for one tarantula, it's no big deal to pick up a few crickets from the pet store.

Other common feeder options include mealworms (the larvae of darkling beetles), superworms (the larvae of a bigger species), dubia roaches, and red runner roaches (smaller and faster than dubias). If you can get over the gross-out factor of roaches, they make pretty good feeders, as they don't smell as bad as crickets, are hardier, and can't jump or climb (a big plus).

If you feed mealworms or superworms, be sure to crush the head. This prevents injuries to your tarantula (they have strong mandibles) and prevents them from burrowing. You can also crush roach heads to stop them from burrowing. (Both mealworms and roaches will continue to wriggle for a long time despite having crushed heads; I think they actually die of thirst/hunger.)

Cage Maintenance

Species that can be kept on dry substrate generally have low maintenance requirements. If you see any boluses (the indigestible remains of prey) or uneaten prey, remove it. You can keep it on the same substrate for a long time; I generally only change mine when rehousing.

Get a pair of long tongs for doing your cage maintenance. It reduces the risk of bites and reduces exposure to urticating hairs. (Most New World species have a special patch of hairs on the abdomen that can be shed or flicked as a defense mechanism. If they get on your skin, they may cause an itchy rash. You don't want to get them in your eyes; that requires a trip to the doctor's office.

Wash your hands after feeding, doing enclosure maintenance, or handling the tarantula.

Handling

Handling is generally discouraged, as it risks injury/death/escape without providing any benefit to the tarantula. (Tarantulas do not enjoy being handled. At best, they tolerate it.) However, if you do choose to handle, I would limit the frequency, and I would always do so no more than a few inches above a soft surface with a catch cup handy in case it falls or bolts.

Molting

If you ever see her on her back or on her side, do not disturb her. This is perfectly normal. It means she is molting (shedding her old exoskeleton). That's a vulnerable time for tarantulas, so you don't want to risk injury by messing with her or startling her.

During pre-molt, your tarantula may refuse food. After molting, she will be hungry, but don't feed her until her fangs turn black. (Soft fangs might break.) Just keep her water dish full and leave her alone.

 

[wingedcoatl]

Once you have your first T for a while, I am like 90% certain that you will want more, and relatively soon! They are truly amazing creatures, and require very little time invested to flourish. The species you listed as potential seconds is great with the aforementioned exception of E murinus, which is a little more advanced in my opinion. They are more likely to be a defensive pet hole, and need a certain amount of humidity to thrive. If you're looking for something a little easier and are willing to accept something with stripes that are a little less dramatic, I recommend Aphonopelma seemanni.

In the event that you become serious about the hobby I heartily endorse picking up a 3rd edition copy of Stanley and Marguerite Schultz "The Tarantula Keeper's Guide." It's a little out of date, but provides a pretty sturdy foundation, and the best part is you don't have to wait on an answer from a forum or have internet access handy to reference it. It has some errata available online too that updated until 2014 at https://people.ucalgary.ca/~schultz/errata3.html. Looks like they stopped updating at that point as they prepare 4th edition.

 

[Pa Uchok]

You are getting a Brachypelma boehmei right?
Brachypelma in general are pretty chill. Some are quick to kick hairs but most are very calm.
If I recall correctly brachypelma smithi and/or Brachypelma hamorii are the ones that are prone to kick hairs a lot.
Not sure about Brachypelma boehmei though...

I'm sure that not long after I joined AB I saw a post that listed the Brachypelma spp. in order of perceived calmness. But I've never been able to find it again - did I imagine it, or does anyone else know the post I mean?

 

[The Grym Reaper]

I'm sure that not long after I joined AB I saw a post that listed the Brachypelma spp. in order of perceived calmness. But I've never been able to find it again - did I imagine it, or does anyone else know the post I mean?

Don't know about the post you mentioned but B. albopilosum are generally the calmest whereas B. auratum and B. boehmei are generally the most skittish and most prone to kicking hairs.

B. vagans have wildly varying temperaments, some people have reported having specimens that are basically Satan whereas others can be docile or skittish.

You can always end up with oddballs (My B. boehmei has never kicked hairs at me) and a tarantula's temperament can change at any time (my once "docile" B. hamorii became evil as heck after a moult, she doesn't kick hairs though).

 

[Torech Ungol]

That's what I do.



Any of those would make a good second tarantula with the exception of Ephebopus murinus, which tends to be defensive and is usually a pet hole. (As a new keeper, you'll learn more from a tarantula you regularly see.)

Grammostola pulchra is especially docile, one of my favorite species to keep. (It would make a fine first tarantula too.) The two I mentioned that have never flicked hairs at me are my two pulchras.


Nhandu chromatus is similar to Acanthoscurria geniculata in temperament and care. (They're not defensive, but they have a very enthusiastic food response, so don't put your fingers in the enclosure.) Some of their substrate should be slightly damp.

Chromatopelma cyaneopubescens is a little faster and skittish but is still beginner-friendly, especially as a second or third tarantula. It makes elaborate webbing and is kept on dry substrate with lots of anchor points for webbing.


Some beginner advice I have shared before

Enclosure

The basic setup for Brachypelma, Grammostola, and Nhandu would be similar: some substrate, a place to hide, and a water dish.

Coconut fiber (or coir) is a very common substrate. If you buy the compressed bricks, you will have to hydrate, break up, and then dry them before use. This is a hassle, so if I want coir, I usually pay extra for the loose, dry bags.

Topsoil and peat also work, and you can mix different substrates together to alter the texture and moisture retention. Just make sure whatever you get does not contain any pesticides, fertilizers, fungicides, etc.

Do not use wood chips, and do not use any furnishings made of cedar or pine. Wood chips are abrasive and unsuitable for burrowing; your tarantula could also impale itself during a fall. Cedar and pine are thought to have insecticidal properties and is known to irritate the respiratory tracts of some animals.

In most cases, there is no need to worry about temperature with these species. Any temperature that you're comfortable in while wearing normal indoor clothing is generally fine. Don't waste your money on a heating mat or heating lamp.

Bulky terrestrial species are particularly vulnerable to falls. Falls from more than a few inches, especially onto a hard surface, can rupture their abdomens, which is often lethal.

Make sure the vertical space (the distance between the top of the substrate and the bottom of the lid) does not exceed 1.5 times the tarantula's diagonal legspan. (Even terrestrial tarantulas will climb from time to time, but they're not very good climbers, so you want to limit the distance they can possibly fall.)

You should also include a hide. The best hides are light-weight (in case she undermines the hide, so it won't crush her), do not have a surface that is jagged or sharp (in case she falls onto it), and don't have a bottom, so they can dig deeper if they want. Cork is a very common hide, as it meets all of these criteria, but there are many options that will work.

Whatever you end up using as a hide, bury most of it and dig out the entrance as a starter burrow. They will excavate more space if they need it, but they don't seem to figure out that they can move substrate into a hide that's too big.

Feeding

The ideal meal size is no bigger than the tarantula's abdomen. If you have slings, you can dice mealworms or give them cricket drumsticks. (Slings will often scavenge on pre-killed prey.)

These species have slow metabolisms, so you only need to feed juveniles and adults 2-4 times a month (depending on the size of the meal). Try to avoid overfeeding, as a fat tarantula is more vulnerable to falls and may scrape its abdomen while dragging it around. (Slings, however, can be fed as much as they will eat. I generally feed mine about twice a week.)

As a new keeper, I used crickets, because I only needed a few, and they are readily available in pet stores. Now that I have a few more tarantulas (seven), I have been moving away from crickets, as they smell bad and don't seem to be very hardy. But for one tarantula, it's no big deal to pick up a few crickets from the pet store.

Other common feeder options include mealworms (the larvae of darkling beetles), superworms (the larvae of a bigger species), dubia roaches, and red runner roaches (smaller and faster than dubias). If you can get over the gross-out factor of roaches, they make pretty good feeders, as they don't smell as bad as crickets, are hardier, and can't jump or climb (a big plus).

If you feed mealworms or superworms, be sure to crush the head. This prevents injuries to your tarantula (they have strong mandibles) and prevents them from burrowing. You can also crush roach heads to stop them from burrowing. (Both mealworms and roaches will continue to wriggle for a long time despite having crushed heads; I think they actually die of thirst/hunger.)

Cage Maintenance

Species that can be kept on dry substrate generally have low maintenance requirements. If you see any boluses (the indigestible remains of prey) or uneaten prey, remove it. You can keep it on the same substrate for a long time; I generally only change mine when rehousing.

Get a pair of long tongs for doing your cage maintenance. It reduces the risk of bites and reduces exposure to urticating hairs. (Most New World species have a special patch of hairs on the abdomen that can be shed or flicked as a defense mechanism. If they get on your skin, they may cause an itchy rash. You don't want to get them in your eyes; that requires a trip to the doctor's office.

Wash your hands after feeding, doing enclosure maintenance, or handling the tarantula.

Handling

Handling is generally discouraged, as it risks injury/death/escape without providing any benefit to the tarantula. (Tarantulas do not enjoy being handled. At best, they tolerate it.) However, if you do choose to handle, I would limit the frequency, and I would always do so no more than a few inches above a soft surface with a catch cup handy in case it falls or bolts.

Molting

If you ever see her on her back or on her side, do not disturb her. This is perfectly normal. It means she is molting (shedding her old exoskeleton). That's a vulnerable time for tarantulas, so you don't want to risk injury by messing with her or startling her.

During pre-molt, your tarantula may refuse food. After molting, she will be hungry, but don't feed her until her fangs turn black. (Soft fangs might break.) Just keep her water dish full and leave her alone.

Have you stickied this somewhere that I missed? This is fantastic information, and would be a wonderful primer to which to direct new keepers. Thank you for the thought and time you put into this.

 

[Ungoliant]

Have you stickied this somewhere that I missed? This is fantastic information, and would be a wonderful primer to which to direct new keepers. Thank you for the thought and time you put into this.

No, I just have it saved as a text file.

 

[The Grym Reaper]

Nhandu chromatus is similar to Acanthoscurria geniculata in temperament and care. (They're not defensive, but they have a very enthusiastic food response, so don't put your fingers in the enclosure.)

Nhandu generally range from skittish to somewhat defensive (you're fairly likely to get threat postures/slapping from them once they realise something isn't food), Acanthoscurria are generally a bit calmer but can be a bit on the skittish side (tend to walk away once they realise something isn't food, may kick hairs if further provoked).

 

[Ungoliant]

Acanthoscurria are generally a bit calmer but can be a bit on the skittish side (tend to walk away once they realise something isn't food, may kick hairs if further provoked).

My genic has recently discovered that he can kick hairs in protest if I do anything in the enclosure but give him food.

 

[wingedcoatl]

A very good primer on keeping dry terrestrial tarantulas

Would it be worth my time to modify this document slightly, make a new thread, and invite people to expand/amend it with the goal of getting it stickied? I feel like a lot of the question threads on this site come from concerned newbies whose problems have solutions baked into basic husbandry. It might be nice to be able to point these people to a living, cohesive document that outlines basic care - and maybe a section on those "is my T sick?" questions that seem to pop up on a very regular basis.

 

[Ungoliant]

Would it be worth my time to modify this document slightly, make a new thread, and invite people to expand/amend it with the goal of getting it stickied?

Honestly, right now we have such a glut of pinned threads on this board (an entire page down before you get to current threads) that I would be reluctant to add another pin to this board without unpinning one of the existing pinned threads.

If @Arachnopets doesn't mind, I'm not opposed to replacing the thread from 2009. I'd generally prefer that stickied threads be started by a moderator, since regular members can't edit their own posts after 12-48 hours (making their pinned threads more of a time capsule with replies than a current index/resource).

 

[wingedcoatl]

Not being able to edit would certainly be an impediment to making a proper "living" document. It would be great if a mod took up that banner

 

[viper69]

Alright, thank you. I was just worried that everything in the house would have urticating hair on it and every stuffs my family touch in the house cause itchiness, I guess I was thinking too much.

There are times when urticating setae land on me and I haven't interacted with my Ts for 3 weeks. These are light structures that are carried by air currents quite easily.

 

[spiderman336]

Also, just wash your hands after you did something in the T's enclosure if you do not use gloves. Simple but effective.

Don't be like me, I forgot and then rubbed my eyes and well, it was not a good day^^

Regarding mites and mold, our resident scientist boina wrote some helpful things on the matter:

About Mold:
http://arachnoboards.com/threads/all-you-need-to-know-about-mold.313315/

and Mites:
http://arachnoboards.com/threads/all-you-need-to-know-about-mites.309211/

Wow. Really itchy eyes I suppose? Did you have to go to the dr? What they prescribe or what happened. I’m new to the hobby as well. Have a versicolor and t seladonia