ball still won't eat and losing weight

[tripleG]

okay everyone thanks for your input but you must understand that its a bit frustrating when you ask for help and are met with criticism or get talked down to like you don't know what you're doing so if you dont' have anything nice to say just keep it to yourself. Please read my entire post before replying so you don't suggest things I have already tried. I have been keeping herps over 8 years now since my public school days and have never had anyone be rude about questions and i would certainly never do that to anyone else. Any competent person knows that not everything on the internet is a reliable resource and also that not everyone has heard of everything no matter how long they have been caring for exotic pets.

i have a bit more info u requested. The snake is definetely captive bred, the temp/hum is fine, cage size more than adequate. I have tried rats and mice, both hoppers, fuzzies and pinkies, tong feeding and leaving them in a small covered enclosure for 24hrs in which its body almost touches all sides of container. I have tried dipping the pinkie in chicken broth. Rubbing the mice in Anole Shed has been suggested although its about the only thing i havn't tried it seems. I even cut open a pinkie so it could smell the blood but no luck.

The snake has Never eaten since birth approx. 4.5 months old possibly 5.5mnths and is beginning to lose some wieght and muscle strength. She has Never shed either and the skin is starting to appear wrinkly so i thought dehydration and have begun bathing it in warm water for about ten minutes each time which it seems to enjoy a bit. All substance from the egg that provided the original nutrition has been expelled a while ago. I clean the cage and water all the time and hold the specimen to test its constriction strength regurlarly. I have many pets and have never had a serious problem with any of them. The are always kept healthy and happy or i wouldn't have them. Anything else that anyone could suggest would be greatly appreciated as it is nearing the point where the snake may have to be fed a nutrional compound through a feeding syringe in order to build up strength so that it will not lose more than it gains through force-feeding. (have not force fed yet) If nothing works i may have to have her examined by a vet. Thanks for any help you can give me.

 

[sick4x4]

well could be that it was a farm raised ball...which imo is the same as a wild caught....the problems you are stating happen alot with these...people pass these off as cb when in all actuality they arnt keep any better..alot of disese's, parasites...ect.ect. u'll probablll have to force feed..to get it into a feeding mode, after a few times, you should be able to stop..also remember that they puck this up at the first few attempts..dont worry keep doing it...there also could be some other problems so a vet visit is more then likely...hope that this helps,

 

[TheDarkFinder]

Time for the vet.

It is time to get her to the vet. What was the weight when you got her compared to now?

The vet can do a examine and give you the a tube and syring. I feed kmr kitten formula cat food, I think it was a few years ago. The vet will give you the right stuff. You may want to try to force feed it. I heared "heared" that if you get the prey into the mouth some snakes will eat it. I never tried it

The bottom line is that it sounds like ibd. An you are in for a lose sorry.
thedarkfinder

 

[Anthony]

There may be somthing internally wrong with the snake. Probably the vet is in order. Best of luck

 

[nightbreed]

I notice that you say the "cage size is more than adequate" are you sure its not to big? Royals/balls can get stressed if they dont feel "snug" if you know what I mean.

 

[Thoth]

I agree with The DarkFinder sounds like it might Inclusion Body Disease (IBD).

Quarantine your ball from the rest of your snakes because it may possibly be contagious to other boids.

Also its not clear but have you tried live versus f/t prey?

 

[Mechanical-Mind]

TripleG,

I don't believe your snake has IBD. There are plenty of articles on IBD and I'm not going to regurgitate any part of them here, but the fact that it's not eating alone most certainly doesn't make me jump to say IBD, although it very well could be. That is to say, there's a myriad of other symptoms you haven't mentioned (e.g. inability to right itself, which I believe may be paramount). Additionally, there are other illnesses that could possibly lead to a snake not eating.

This part did catch my eye, though....

and hold the specimen to test its constriction strength regurlarly.

I think it would be best not to handle it at all or unless absolutely necessary; and absolutely necessary would now mean force feeding. Handling causes stress and shouldn't be done until your snake feeds on it's own multiple times.

If what you say is true, you've tried your hand at nearly all recommended techniques to get your snake on the feed by is own volition, and if it's losing weight it's time to try force feeding. Vet visits are superb if you can afford them, but I think if you're not talking about a designer morph, or even a heterozygous specimen, it may not be economical.

I have a young female regius who, like yours, wouldn't eat several months after hatching. Like you I tried multiple approaches (brown bag method, for example), but I finally succumbed to force feeding. Initially she would fight and spit it back out, and it would take multiple attempts to get her to take it. It was on the 4th force feed, with a live rat pup, that the moment the head of the prey touched the back of her throat, she clinched down on her own accord and and constricted. Two weeks after each forced feeding, I would offer a live pup and/or a live mouse hopper. If she didn't take, I would force again. After a few more forced feedings, she began eating on her own. I suppose my only reason for adding this anecdote is to assure you it does work, provided that it's performed 'correctly', and that it's very easy to do. There's no arguing that it's stressful, because it obviously is, but it is an effective method and has worked for me in the past on all but one occasion.

Again, I feel I should reiterate that there's nothing in your initial post that made IBD come to mind, although I do respect the two posts mentioning it, I respectfully disagree with them both; although, to be fair, it is something in the realm of possiblities. Balls not eating is wretchedly common, and not all young ever begin feeding for Python and other genera.

Best,
-Matt

P.S. - A word on force feeding:

Although you may be familiar with it, you may have done it a different way, so here's how it's worked for me in the past: When force feeding, I grasp the snake behind the head with my index finger on one side and thumb on the other. Gently, but firm, if that makes sense. While holding the snake behind the head, I cradle the snake's body between my forearm and torso. I then take the other hand and dip the head of a live rat pup, or other appropriately sized prey, into luke-warm water and proceed to wiggle or pry the mouth of the snake open with the head of the lubricated prey (by lifting the upper jaw first), and continue to insert it, gently, until the tip of the rat's goes just past the throat of the snake. Then press the top and bottom jaws of the snake so that it's teeth hook. Now place the snake back in it's tank and leave it alone. Come back in a few minutes and repeat if necessary. It's simple and it's straight forward. Lastly, I would suggest using rats, and never offer a mouse. The frustration of switching a ball from mouse to rat is very real, and since you WILL get your ball to feed, start it off on the right foot. Adios.

 

[kitty_b]

i had several baby balls years ago, and one was a definite problem when it came to eating. i resorted to force-feeding him a hopper mouse every week (after the vet had confirmed that there was nothing apparently wrong with the snake). i force-fed him for several months, always offering the food before attempting to feed him myself. eventually, he started eating on his own.

i also had a baby albino burmese who wouldn't eat. i forcefed him for a couple months, and he also eventually started eating on his own (he was very "lazy" and would simply slide over and ease his mouth around the f/t mouse). after about a month or two of being a lazy eater, he started striking food like a NORMAL snake.

in short, don't give up hope. with a check-up from the vet and some TLC, your baby should come around.

 

[TheDarkFinder]

TripleG,

I lost a BRB to IBD and there was no signs except for small, one scale scar on the head and regratution/refusal of food.

How do I know it was IBD. I spent $850 in vet bills finding out.

I'm not even close to expert on snakes. I'm not even up to actually owning one. My wife has two corns, but those are hers, as was the BRB. I have this thing about snakes, I do not know what it is but after a while it is "get that thing a way from me."

I hope it is not IBD but if a vet is possible it may be wise to cancel it out.

I think it is stressed and just stubborn eater. But I can not tell.

The poster is really defensive about this topic. So, I do not know.

It is nice to have someone that knows snakes here on the board.

Any way as for the topic, If I was the orignal poster, I would listen to this guy and not me.
thedarkfinder

 

[tripleG]

ball not eating

thank you so muck for evryone's advice and support. I hope it is not IBD that's causing my python not to eat because i would sincerely hate to lose a specimen as it would be my first. It really helps to know that people out there care and will do their best to help me. All your advice is appreciated. I will attempt force feeding right away and also quarantine the snake as well as refrain from handling it except when absolutely necessary. If this doesn't work after a few attempts then a visit to the vet will have to be made. Thanks again.

 

[Scorp guy]

I'll put in in my experience.

Mine stopped eating for several months as well.....

I moved it back into a 10G glass tank temporarily, and it ate..... and ate again in a week.

Good luck!

 

[Galadriel]

Have you considered, since she has NEVER eaten, that there may be a genetic defect? Also, a neonate that refuses to eat is likely to suffer damage to the kidneys and liver. No amount of meds or force feeding will help if that's the case. Coupled with the shed problems, it suggests long term problems and you should get her to a good herp vet, pronto.

 

[David_F]

....The snake is definetely captive bred...

Did one of your females produce this snake or did you get it from a breeder? If it was from a breeder (or pet shop), did you know it was a non-feeder when you bought it? Have you spoken to the breeder? Seems strange that a good breeder would sell a snake that hadn't eaten yet.

Sorry I don't have any advice on how to get the snake to eat but it sounds like the trouble started with the breeder so that's where I'd check first (well, after a vet visit).

 

[tripleG]

my poor little ball python passed away yesterday before i could get her to the vet. I have not spoken to the person who sold it to me but I've dealt with him before and never had problems. ITs really too bad and i feel terrible cause i didnt get her to the vet in time or do anything else to save her although i'm not certain i could. THanks to everyone who tried to help me out I'll make another post with a pic to see if anyone can help me identify the cause of death as soon as I can get my camera working. I've already quaratined my other pets and am in the process of re-housing them all/sanitizing their enclosures as well as the room they were kept in just in case they have become contaminated. I would hate to lose any more of my pets to diseases of any kind its just devastating to care for something so much and feel like you're totally helpless to do anything cause its too late. Thanks again to everyone who gave me advice please take a gander at my next post if you can help me ID the problem.

 

[Mushroom Spore]

I don't think pics are going to help anyone identify what was certainly an internal/psychological problem.

Sucks to lose one, I guess that's nature for you.

 

[tripleG]

i was just thinking a pick of the parasites themselves would help me find out exactly what they are so i know what i'm up against regarding my other pets. For instance, how likely is it that my entire collection will become infested the same way and what precautions i should take