Ball python finally!

[Elleken]

So I finally got my first ball python after years of waiting. I've researched alot about em and have a few questions just to check. I read that they are burrowing snakes and though they will thrive on newspaper it is best for them to have something like bed a beast true? I have a 20 gallon tank that I intend to fill a decent amount with that substrate put two hides on either sides and put a under cage heater under it. This seem like enough? Do they need any sort of UV lighting? It's just a baby at this point and has been eating live mice any suggestions on moving to frozen? Thanks in advance!

 

[codykrr]

first dontuse any substrate...use astroturf or newspaper....they get the stuff in there mouths andnostrils and i had one acually get a sinus infection from it. just make sure it has a big water bowl on the warm side so it creates humidity for shedding. i wouldnt use a heat mat either, mine hated it..so i switched to a heat lamp. on one side of the tank. the othr side is cool. 2 hides. one on each side(hot and cool hide) also good luck getting it to eat frozen mine still wont touch them...at all.

and these things have alot of bad sheds if humidity is low...before a shed i always soak mine for 30 min. then i put her bck in her cage. sometimes they will soak naturally sometimes they wont. they can be picky eaters to...to big or to small of feeders mine wont eat. has to be a certain size. and supply something for them to rub on like a log or rock or shedding. (i use astroturf and a log for this) there really good snakes, not for begginers imho, but definatly a must have. good luck.

and p.s. they dont need uv lighting...they prefer dark hides...and make sure the hide are just big enough for them to fit in...they like tight spots.

 

[Mushroom Spore]

I started off using astroturf/reptile carpet at first, probably for at least six months, I don't really remember how long. Hated it. That stuff NEVER gets clean, and I scrubbed it and soaked in bleach solution and everything. Urine soaks right through it and onto the glass, and every time the snake relieves itself you have to take EVERYTHING out of the tank so you can remove the carpet, clean the glass, replace with clean carpet, and put all the hides and stuff back in. Switched to aspen shavings: my snake started to burrow all over the place, and now I can spot clean with a kitty litter shovel. Aspen is very absorbent and I hardly ever have to clean the glass. You really only have to replace all the substrate when it starts smelling stale, which takes a while.

Heat lamps will seriously lower your humidity levels in the enclosure, which is bad for this species. There's no reason not to use an undertank heating pad (although you may need a dimmer or thermostat to keep it from getting TOO warm depending on brand). Heating pads also last a long time, while lamp bulbs need frequent replacing.

I agree that they don't need UV lighting, they're nocturnal and are programmed to mostly HIDE while the sun is up.

Good for you for wanting to move to frozen. Live adult mice can be nippy, but once your snake is big enough to need rats, live prey can be REALLY dangerous. You'll have to experiment to see what your individual snake needs as far as learning to eat dead prey. Some of them need it wiggled with tongs - this does not mean waving it around or making it "chase" them, that'll probably just scare your pet into not eating that day at all. Just little wounded prey animal wiggles, slowly dragging it AWAY from them.

Other times it helps to put the snake inside a shoebox with the dead prey for an hour or three (put the shoebox in the tank and lock it up to prevent escapes, obviously). Or you could cut a hole in the side of the shoebox to let the snake crawl inside, and leave the shoebox in the tank overnight. This mimics going into rodent burrows in the wild, which can flip the "oh man I want to eat that!" switch.

There's tons more advice than that out there, seems like every other owner has found something that works for their pet. If one technique doesn't work, just throw out the thawed mouse and try a different technique next time.

Don't try to feed more than once a week, don't ever offer a live meal ever again once you finally get your pet eating f/t (or you might undo all your hard work), and don't try to refreeze uneaten mice. I can't think of anything else, usually I'm more awake when I post in these threads.

 

[ballpython2]

first dontuse any substrate...use astroturf or newspaper....they get the stuff in there mouths andnostrils and i had one acually get a sinus infection from it. just make sure it has a big water bowl on the warm side so it creates humidity for shedding. i wouldnt use a heat mat either, mine hated it..so i switched to a heat lamp. on one side of the tank. the othr side is cool. 2 hides. one on each side(hot and cool hide) also good luck getting it to eat frozen mine still wont touch them...at all.

and these things have alot of bad sheds if humidity is low...before a shed i always soak mine for 30 min. then i put her bck in her cage. sometimes they will soak naturally sometimes they wont. they can be picky eaters to...to big or to small of feeders mine wont eat. has to be a certain size. and supply something for them to rub on like a log or rock or shedding. (i use astroturf and a log for this) there really good snakes, not for begginers imho, but definatly a must have. good luck.

Ball pythons aren't picky eaters at all unless it ends up being an imprint feeder. If you consider your snake only eating a certain size prey item picky to get him to eat any size mouse/rat (whatever you feed) just skip a week or more and he'll be twice as hungry and won't care what he eats. It's impossible to starve a snake cause they sometimes by choice go off of feed.

The best way to switch your snake to frozen is to thaw the prey item fully then use tongs to make it 'dance' in front of the snake (don't hit the head/face if the snake with the prey item or this could frighten him causes him not to eat) after he grabs it don't let go keep lightly pullin in the tail or leg while he constricts after a while stop let go and he should eat.

 

[Elleken]

Thanks for the help everyone. Got everything I needed today while he was in his temporary home. I say he, but in reality its yet to be sexed. Gonna pick up a thermostat to really control the temperature. This is gonna be one spoiled snake seeing as how its my only one haha.

 

[Mack&Cass]

When we got our BP last month it was on live and we didn't really have any problems moving it to frozen. We just run the mouse under hot water right before we feed it to him and he takes it every time, we still have to move it in front of him first though like others have said. I've heard of soaking it in chicken stock too, but I haven't tried that.

 

[codykrr]

ballpython....ive tried that many many times....there are picky eating snakes....im no newb when it comes to my snake keeping been doingit for 15 years. ive had tons of them. smetimes they just dont eat F/t mice....ive even tried prekilled. and nothing. no intrest...starved her for a month..nothing. only live for her. andi knowhow mice andrats arenippy bitty little creatures. but i watch and if it isnt eaten in 5 minutes is removed. i wouldnt ever do that with a ratof course. im going to have to work with her some more with prekilled...just takes time.

 

[SD_Reptiles]

They dont need any type of UV light. I would not use the cage carpet. Or put the water on the warm side. They are both breeding grounds for all kinds of funky stuff. I use unprinted packaging paper I get from the local Uhaul place. If your going to use some type of UTH make sure you get some kind of Dimmer or Thermostat. They can get well over 100 and thats way to hot for your ball. People were saying their snake never used it. Well if its to hot they wont. Get a good digital thermometer. Not one of those stick on ones for fish tanks. Or even one of those round ones sold for reptiles. They are both junk dont waste your money.

Changing to F/T good luck. I have no advice there I feed live. I did try at one time to switch all of mine over. Only one will take a F/T rat. She will eat both live or F/T. Using two hides is good I dont some of my balls dont even get a hide. I keep them all in tubs. So the whole tub is like one big hide. If you use two make sure you get two of the same hides. The snake can, if two different hides are used. Pick one it likes and only use it. So get two of the same hides.

Like said the heat lamp will dry out the cage a lot more than an UTH. Tanks are really hard to keep humidity in. Because I use paper. I have to mist to keep humidity up. Once the snake goes into shed. (turns blue) I start misting them 1 or 2 times a day until they shed. Doing this even in the winter I almost never have a bad shed. If your going to use some kind of aspen or something like that. I would think about feeding in another tank or tub. They can swallow the aspen they can get impacted. They can get it caught in their mouth and teeth.

Feed or offer food once at least once a week. Sometimes they will eat sometimes they wont. Most of mine go off food during the winter. Your new baby ball once you get the cage setup let it settle in for a week or so. Before you start handling a lot. That can cause them to not eat. After feeding let them have at least 2 days of rest before you handle. Well thats about all I have right now.

 

[ballpython2]

ballpython....ive tried that many many times....there are picky eating snakes....im no newb when it comes to my snake keeping been doingit for 15 years. ive had tons of them. smetimes they just dont eat F/t mice....ive even tried prekilled. and nothing. no intrest...starved her for a month..nothing. only live for her. andi knowhow mice andrats arenippy bitty little creatures. but i watch and if it isnt eaten in 5 minutes is removed. i wouldnt ever do that with a ratof course. im going to have to work with her some more with prekilled...just takes time.

Have you tried doing live then following it directly (two prey items in one feeding) with one that's already prekilled and/or stunned? What about FRESHLY prekilled over frozen thawed prekilled?

 

[codykrr]

im sorry ball, but you just mimiced everthingi said DIDNT work...she is just stuck on live...ive accepted that.

as for a heat bulb drying the cage....mine does fine. my water dish isntdirectly under the bulb..so no funkl, plus i give new water EVERY day....she likes to soak and poop in it. as for paper...i refrained from usingit only because i cant get unprinted, and news paper leaves dyes and inks behind on the glass in my exerience. astro turf works for me...its super cheap, ndi clean it with a garden hose on full blast with a jet sprayer...so cleaningis a breeze...plus i use a very diluted bleach mixtue to sterilize... also i have about 20 to 30 precut piecesof astroturf for my snake tanks...cheap and simple. i usally keep my warm side around 85 F, and the cool ide around 60. two dirrent hides. you can see my etup on my picture thread...

 

[SD_Reptiles]

There is nothing wrong with feeding live. I have never had a snake hurt from a rat or a mouse. I'm not saying it cant,or does not happen. I feed live here is how I do it. Anything not in shed I try to feed every week. I put the rat/mouse in the tub. By the time I get done with the last tub most have ate. If not I go back and check the ones that didn't eat. I take the rat/mouse out. So the rat/mouse is only in the tub 15 minutes or so at the most. I do one rack at a time. When that rack is done I move on to the next.

I also don't mess with the mice/rats before I feed them. I go through and pick out what I need. Put them in a tub carry them to my snake racks grab the mouse/rat put it in the cage. The less you freak out the mice/rats the better it is. If you throw in a good sized freaked out rat. There is a good chance its going to bite or scratch your snake. I will get little scratches once in a while. Nothing that breaks the skin.

I know the reasons for feeding F/T or prekilled. F/T if it works for you do it. Prekilled I don't really go for. I have herd tons of stories. People stunning or knocking out the mice/rat. Thinking it was dead and it wasn't. The snake grabbing it then the food item wakes up. Biting and scratching the snakes really bad. Feeding live is just as safe as F/T if done right. If you throw a large rat in with your ball python and leave it over night. Your going to have problems. I don't feed any of my balls large rats. They largest rat I feed is a Med/small rat. Some of my bigger girls 2500g to 3500g will eat two of them. Again I have had not one bite or bad scratch feeding live.

 

[ballpython2]

There is nothing wrong with feeding live. I have never had a snake hurt from a rat or a mouse. I'm not saying it cant,or does not happen. I feed live here is how I do it. Anything not in shed I try to feed every week. I put the rat/mouse in the tub. By the time I get done with the last tub most have ate. If not I go back and check the ones that didn't eat. I take the rat/mouse out. So the rat/mouse is only in the tub 15 minutes or so at the most. I do one rack at a time. When that rack is done I move on to the next.

I also don't mess with the mice/rats before I feed them. I go through and pick out what I need. Put them in a tub carry them to my snake racks grab the mouse/rat put it in the cage. The less you freak out the mice/rats the better it is. If you throw in a good sized freaked out rat. There is a good chance its going to bite or scratch your snake. I will get little scratches once in a while. Nothing that breaks the skin.

I know the reasons for feeding F/T or prekilled. F/T if it works for you do it. Prekilled I don't really go for. I have herd tons of stories. People stunning or knocking out the mice/rat. Thinking it was dead and it wasn't. The snake grabbing it then the food item wakes up. Biting and scratching the snakes really bad. Feeding live is just as safe as F/T if done right. If you throw a large rat in with your ball python and leave it over night. Your going to have problems. I don't feed any of my balls large rats. They largest rat I feed is a Med/small rat. Some of my bigger girls 2500g to 3500g will eat two of them. Again I have had not one bite or bad scratch feeding live.

I agree with this supervised feeding go over well when proper precautions are taken. I think most serious bites come from mice/rats when the snake is either not hungry and left with the food item for too long or it's left with the food item and is sick and/or the husbandry is incorrect. Snakes in the wild don't worry about if they are going to get bit or not neither do the ones we own. In my opinion, we 'baby' our snakes and spoil them by killing their food for them. It's like we are forgetting when it comes down to it even the captive bred snakes will always have that wild instinct within them. Also a snake wouldn't take on more than it thought it could take down and kill.

 

[Elleken]

I just prefer frozen. I mean obviously if it comes down to it I will move to live. In the end I'm just going to end up wanting it to be a healthy snake. The only problem is that both me and my girlfriend have had rodents as pets in the past. I will admit to having the tendency to bond with an animal quickly even if it is meant to be a feeder. I bought some frozen pinkies and will be trying them next week once it has settled in a bit more.

 

[Mushroom Spore]

I bought some frozen pinkies and will be trying them next week once it has settled in a bit more.

Rat babies, I hope. I can't imagine even the youngest ball python bothering with a pinky mouse, some breeders start off hatchlings on adult or nearly adult mice. You should be offering one prey item about as big around as the fattest part of the snake's body.

 

[SD_Reptiles]

It's like we are forgetting when it comes down to it even the captive bred snakes will always have that wild instinct within them. Also a snake wouldn't take on more than it thought it could take down and kill.

That happens a lot. People forget that snakes are designed to kill. They are not designed to go to the fridge get out a frozen ratpop and thaw it out then eat it. They are designed to kill its prey as fast as possible with least amount of damage and stress done to itself.

 

[Mushroom Spore]

They are designed to kill its prey as fast as possible with least amount of damage and stress done to itself.

This doesn't mean they can always do so. Snakes may be designed to kill, but prey animals are designed to survive well enough to not become extinct - part of this is reproducing quickly and in large numbers, and part of this is the fact that rodents have some serious teeth.

I don't doubt that my BP could take out a live prey item at least most of the time. However, that % of attempts which will end in injury to him, however miniscule, is simply not acceptable to me. Mother Nature has tens of thousands of ball pythons. I only have one, and I don't intend to randomly lose him (or have him get bitten and scarred up or blinded) because of a $2.00 feeder rat.

If you choose to feed live, go ahead. But acting like those silly f/t feeding owners think their snakes will drop dead on the spot if they so much as see a live rodent EVER, or that we have somehow forgotten our pets are predators, is a little silly, and it's something I see in too many threads. ;P No, snakes in the wild don't get dead prey handed to them. But that doesn't mean wild snakes never get torn up or killed either.

 

[BrassMonkey]

I've brained F/T rat pups and converted two of my BPs to F/T; one brained pup each and they never gave me hassle again.

 

[samatwwe]

first dontuse any substrate...use astroturf or newspaper....they get the stuff in there mouths andnostrils and i had one acually get a sinus infection from it. just make sure it has a big water bowl on the warm side so it creates humidity for shedding. i wouldnt use a heat mat either, mine hated it..so i switched to a heat lamp. on one side of the tank. the othr side is cool. 2 hides. one on each side(hot and cool hide) also good luck getting it to eat frozen mine still wont touch them...at all.

and these things have alot of bad sheds if humidity is low...before a shed i always soak mine for 30 min. then i put her bck in her cage. sometimes they will soak naturally sometimes they wont. they can be picky eaters to...to big or to small of feeders mine wont eat. has to be a certain size. and supply something for them to rub on like a log or rock or shedding. (i use astroturf and a log for this) there really good snakes, not for begginers imho, but definatly a must have. good luck.

and p.s. they dont need uv lighting...they prefer dark hides...and make sure the hide are just big enough for them to fit in...they like tight spots.

aspen shavings work fine for all my snakes except my boa which is on eco earth...