Welcome back to the hobby and welcome to AB!
This is a very generic request. You are going to have to be a lot more specific with what information you are looking for. Please remember that no one here knows what your husbandry experience is.
A little bit of general knowledge, I’ve had a couple G. Rosea in the past, and always wanted a L. Parahybana, so I’m excited, my new baby has started a tunnel system under the hide rock, and I’m thinking about some live plants for it as well, any tips on plants, and maybe finer points of what they like? I’ve given mine lots of leg room, lower enclosure, thick bed of terrarium soil, maintaining average temp of about 26 and humidity just below 70Welcome back to the hobby and welcome to AB!
This is a very generic request. You are going to have to be a lot more specific with what information you are looking for. Please remember that no one here knows what your husbandry experience is.
Needs way more substrate in there T should only have 1.5x DLS head space so in you're case 6 inches.
Gratz on your newly acquired L. parahybana.
Pinkie was live, won’t feed frozen, never have, and yes I had my roseas maybe 8 years ago or more, but I will definitely add more substrate, especially as I’ve noticed it’s tunneling in it’s hide, so far it’s mostly hiding during the day and relaxing away
It left nothing, and I was under the impression that the occasional pinkie was good for fat content?
Thank you very much, I’ve noticed mine is a voracious eater, which is not uncommon from what I understand for a young Parahybana, at this size would you know what to expect for moult frequency?
Definitely have a look at changing the mesh top too, the T will be able to chew through it, or they can get stuck in it if it's the right small stuff.
Molt frequency is dependent on temps it is kept at and frequency of feedings. Even then if you had two parahybana from the same sac the molt frequency could be different. It's hard to gauge but power feeding a sub-adult is not recommended.
This is good to know, I’ll definitely be looking at other options, given what was available at the time that I purchased it, that was the best option, but currently it’s more interested in going underground
They are pretty fast growers up until around the size you have. It all depends on how there kept and how there fed.
It's easy enough to edit the tank you have no need to look for another tank that way you don't need to rehouse eitherThis is good to know, I’ll definitely be looking at other options, given what was available at the time that I purchased it, that was the best option, but currently it’s more interested in going underground
I’ve got mine at 26-27 Celsius and 70 ish percent humidity what size and amount of crickets should it be getting, and opinions on super worms?
Ive used super worms before, at that size it will take 2 or 3 at a time. Better off using large locost or roaches whatever is more readily available to you.
I have a great source a block or two from my house for crickets from 3-5 week, and super worms, there’s a couple that got into the substrate but I’ve done some reading and learned that isn’t something to worry about?
What got into the substrate? You mean the tarantula's enclosure substrate? That's a very bad thing.
Can the worms hurt the tarantula otherwise? I’ve got two that burrowed in and other posts I read stated that this shouldn’t be a problem? Should I be digging out the worms?
I’ll get on digging them out right away. Should I be doing a full change on substrate now?