I'm doing something wrong but I don't know what

[Pandablergs]

Help would be appreciated! I just got through my first molt with an aphonopelma chalcodes sling. It's about 1 1/2 inch legspan when it's stretched out. This is my first tarantula. So it got through the molt and I left it alone 9 days after the molt, only opening up to fill the water bowl. I do this by just dropping in a straw filled with water and letting a few drops out into the bowl because I don't want to disturb the enclosure too much. So last night I tried to feed a roach, but my t was throwing up threat pose and curling it's legs around violently and quickly. I got this sling because it was reported to be a very docile hardy species. But clearly something I'm doing is really pissing it off. I'm trying to do my best to leave it in an undisturbed room. It might be that it's just not quiet enough here? Maybe my roommate vacuums too frequently. Or even just the footsteps of people walking around the apartment are too much vibration. I keep reading about rookie mistakes, and I'm trying to just leave it alone. What could I have missed?

 

[cold blood]

It may just not be ready to eat...slow growers take their time with everything.

Next time you offer food, offer pre killed prey.

 

[lostbrane]

Or you could just have a feisty tarantula.

 

[Pandablergs]

It may just not be ready to eat...slow growers take their time with everything.

Next time you offer food, offer pre killed prey.

Will do! I feel like I need a more frequent eater to keep myself entertained between caring for this guy

Or you could just have a feisty tarantula.

Yeah...I feel like I'm doing something wrong though because when I first handled him it at the reptile show it was super chill and walking very slowly. It seemed extremely stressed after the move. I fed it twice the first week and then it went into pre-molt. It refused food for about a month so I stopped feeding it. This is my first t though so I kept offering food for a few weeks when I'm sure more experienced keepers would have recognized signs of pre-molt. I kept trying to feed and I think the prey items stressed it out. I lost a roach in the enclosure once and found it resurfaced weeks later. All this stuff I think stressed it out a lot. I'm inexperienced and the guy who sold me the t said if it's throwing up threat pose I'm doing something wrong bc usually a t's first reaction is to run and hide.

 

[Kitara]

Will do! I feel like I need a more frequent eater to keep myself entertained between caring for this guy

LOL! I have five now because my attention span is low and I love that they are all different, eat different, act different, grow faster/slower, etc. They are so easy to care for that I like my little group because it stays interesting.

 

[chanda]

Yeah...I feel like I'm doing something wrong though because when I first handled him it at the reptile show it was super chill and walking very slowly. It seemed extremely stressed after the move. I fed it twice the first week and then it went into pre-molt. It refused food for about a month so I stopped feeding it. This is my first t though so I kept offering food for a few weeks when I'm sure more experienced keepers would have recognized signs of pre-molt. I kept trying to feed and I think the prey items stressed it out. I lost a roach in the enclosure once and found it resurfaced weeks later. All this stuff I think stressed it out a lot. I'm inexperienced and the guy who sold me the t said if it's throwing up threat pose I'm doing something wrong bc usually a t's first reaction is to run and hide.

Your enclosure looks like it's too big for a spider that size. It may feel exposed and vulnerable. Your substrate looks like wood chips? A. chalcodes needs dirt or a substrate mix that it can dig in - and it should be deep enough for your spider to dig itself a burrow. You should replace that substrate with clean topsoil or a sand/dirt/coconut fiber mix that it can dig a burrow in. (Coconut fiber by itself doesn't hold a burrow very well.) Also, when you make the substrate deeper, that will decrease the "open space" height of the cage. There should be no more than 1.5 times the DLS (diagonal leg span) of the tarantula between the top of the substrate and the top of the cage, so if/when your spider climbs the walls or hangs from the ceiling, it won't suffer a fatal ruptured abdomen if it falls. The hide should be mostly buried in the substrate, with just a tiny gap left open at the top - then the spider can excavate to its liking. It wants a small, protected space to retreat to where it feels safe. If it feels exposed, it will be more likely to throw threat poses.

Also, you mentioned handling the spider at the show. Handling is not recommended for tarantulas. It does not benefit the spider in any way (and frequently stresses them out). Every time you handle a spider, you risk getting bit or "haired" - and you risk the spider jumping/bolting/falling and potentially escaping or suffering a fatal injury.

You also said you fed it twice during the first week? A. chalcodes is a pretty slow-growing spider and does not need to eat that often. How much are you feeding it at one time? If the spider gets overfed, it will be more likely to go on an extended fast afterward. I only feed my chalcodes (and most of my other tarantulas) roughly once every week or two.

If you want an eating machine, something like Acanthoscurria geniculata may be a better choice - but they are definitely not one you want to handle! In addition to having what are supposed to be some particularly unpleasant urticating hairs, they are very aggressive feeders. Pretty much anything that enters their space is considered potential food - and will be attacked accordingly - whether it's cleaning tongs (use the rubber tipped kind so it doesn't damage its fangs) or water (mine routinely "attacks" the water every time I fill her dish) or crickets - or fingers. I've had mine grab the cricket bag more than once - and refuse to let go.

 

[Cherri]

Or you could just have a feisty tarantula.

This! I had an avic metallica who thought she was a pokie.

 

[Vanessa]

While this species has an overall reputation as being tolerant, the reality is that they are split about 50/50 down the middle tolerant versus defensive. I have heard of plenty of less tolerant individuals. Smaller individuals can also be less tolerant, and more reactive/defensive, than larger ones.
Your spider needs more substrate. They would appreciate plenty to burrow in. Try burying the hide under the substrate at an angle.
I've also noticed that this species likes to 'hibernate' over the winter months and my female commonly refuses food between October and March. Smaller individuals are less likely to go off food like that, but it is still possible.

 

[Pandablergs]

I know now that it doesn't need to eat as often. I'll probably only attempt to feed once every other week or so. At this point, it hasn't eaten in about 3 months.

Are you sure it could be exposed? It comes outside its burrow all the time, and rarely goes in there. It does have a decent burrow under the wood piece, but doesn't hide much. I can definitely try changing the substrate, but I'm nervous about moving it because it hasn't calmed down except when it was conserving energy right before the molt. Last time I tapped its back legs to get it to move, it was pretty fast. That was about two months ago. I haven't tried since.

Your enclosure looks like it's too big for a spider that size. It may feel exposed and vulnerable. Your substrate looks like wood chips? A. chalcodes needs dirt or a substrate mix that it can dig in - and it should be deep enough for your spider to dig itself a burrow. You should replace that substrate with clean topsoil or a sand/dirt/coconut fiber mix that it can dig a burrow in. (Coconut fiber by itself doesn't hold a burrow very well.) Also, when you make the substrate deeper, that will decrease the "open space" height of the cage. There should be no more than 1.5 times the DLS (diagonal leg span) of the tarantula between the top of the substrate and the top of the cage, so if/when your spider climbs the walls or hangs from the ceiling, it won't suffer a fatal ruptured abdomen if it falls. The hide should be mostly buried in the substrate, with just a tiny gap left open at the top - then the spider can excavate to its liking. It wants a small, protected space to retreat to where it feels safe. If it feels exposed, it will be more likely to throw threat poses.

Also, you mentioned handling the spider at the show. Handling is not recommended for tarantulas. It does not benefit the spider in any way (and frequently stresses them out). Every time you handle a spider, you risk getting bit or "haired" - and you risk the spider jumping/bolting/falling and potentially escaping or suffering a fatal injury.

You also said you fed it twice during the first week? A. chalcodes is a pretty slow-growing spider and does not need to eat that often. How much are you feeding it at one time? If the spider gets overfed, it will be more likely to go on an extended fast afterward. I only feed my chalcodes (and most of my other tarantulas) roughly once every week or two.

If you want an eating machine, something like Acanthoscurria geniculata may be a better choice - but they are definitely not one you want to handle! In addition to having what are supposed to be some particularly unpleasant urticating hairs, they are very aggressive feeders. Pretty much anything that enters their space is considered potential food - and will be attacked accordingly - whether it's cleaning tongs (use the rubber tipped kind so it doesn't damage its fangs) or water (mine routinely "attacks" the water every time I fill her dish) or crickets - or fingers. I've had mine grab the cricket bag more than once - and refuse to let go.

 

[Andrew Clayton]

It does have a decent burrow under the wood piece, but doesn't hide much.

That is not a burrow that is just a hide a burrow is where you’re spider burrows into the dirt that’s where it gets its name burrow from you have less than an inch of substrate in there so this = no burrow

 

[chanda]

I know now that it doesn't need to eat as often. I'll probably only attempt to feed once every other week or so. At this point, it hasn't eaten in about 3 months.

Are you sure it could be exposed? It comes outside its burrow all the time, and rarely goes in there. It does have a decent burrow under the wood piece, but doesn't hide much. I can definitely try changing the substrate, but I'm nervous about moving it because it hasn't calmed down except when it was conserving energy right before the molt. Last time I tapped its back legs to get it to move, it was pretty fast. That was about two months ago. I haven't tried since.

Yes, they will come of of their burrows. Seeing it out in the open does not mean that it isn't interested in having a burrow - they still like having that small, safe space to retreat to when they feel threatened. The depth of your substrate does not allow it to create the sort of burrow that it will be comfortable in. What it has is more of a large empty space under the hide. Any "burrow" it has attempted to create under there is just a scrape where it started to dig a burrow - but had to quit when it hit the bottom of the cage. If it is throwing threat poses rather than retreating, then it most likely does not feel like the hole under that hide is an adequately "safe" space.

When you need to move it, you don't need to tap the legs. Just slowly and carefully place a clear plastic deli cup or something similar over it, then slide a piece of cardboard under the rim of the cup - then the spider is contained and can be safely removed from the enclosure. Be careful not to trap any legs or other body parts under the sides of the cup. (That's why you use a clear cup - so you can always see where the spider is and what it's doing.) Once the spider has been removed, you can replace the substrate and bury most of that hide, leaving just a small started gap for the spider to squeeze into. A. chalcodes are little hairy bulldozers when they want to be - it will dig and shift substrate around until it has something that it is comfortable with. After you've finished adding substrate, you can put the cup back into the enclosure, slide out the cardboard, and lift the cup off the spider - or if the spider has climbed the sides of the cup (and if the cup fits all the way inside the enclosure) just leave the uncovered cup in the enclosure and close the lid. The spider will leave the cup when it's ready - and you can remove the empty cup later.

 

[Pandablergs]

There is a small hole under the hide, when I first moved it into the enclosure it dug a hole under the hide down to the bottom of the coco fiber. I definitely hear what you're saying though, I need more substrate

That is not a burrow that is just a hide a burrow is where you’re spider burrows into the dirt that’s where it gets its name burrow from you have less than an inch of substrate in there so this = no burrow

Thank you this is very helpful! Really appreciate how you cleared up the type of burrow the spider wants to have

Yes, they will come of of their burrows. Seeing it out in the open does not mean that it isn't interested in having a burrow - they still like having that small, safe space to retreat to when they feel threatened. The depth of your substrate does not allow it to create the sort of burrow that it will be comfortable in. What it has is more of a large empty space under the hide. Any "burrow" it has attempted to create under there is just a scrape, given the depth of the substrate, and not the sort of burrow that it wants. If it is throwing threat poses rather than retreating, then it most likely does not feel like the hole under that hide is an adequately "safe" space.

When you need to move it, you don't need to tap the legs. Just slowly and carefully place a clear plastic deli cup or something similar over it, then slide a piece of cardboard under the rim of the cup - then the spider is contained and can be safely removed from the enclosure. Be careful not to trap any legs or other body parts under the sides of the cup. (That's why you use a clear cup - so you can always see where the spider is and what it's doing.) Once the spider has been removed, you can replace the substrate and bury most of that hide, leaving just a small started gap for the spider to squeeze into. A. chalcodes are little hairy bulldozers when they want to be - it will dig and shift substrate around until it has something that it is comfortable with. After you've finished adding substrate, you can put the cup back into the enclosure, slide out the cardboard, and lift the cup off the spider - or if the spider has climbed the sides of the cup (and if the cup fits all the way inside the enclosure) just leave the uncovered cup in the enclosure and close the lid. The spider will leave the cup when it's ready - and you can remove the empty cup later.

 

[cold blood]

Its not all that uncommon for many NW terrestrials to not use hides and just sit in the open...particularly adults...I have dozens that have blocked hides or buried them or just not used them in years.....sitting in the open isn't a sign there is something wrong.

 

[MainMann]

I would personally give the more substrate, for a chalcodes at that size, I'd say 3inches would be good. And i would also give the T more cover and hides because that's a pretty big enclosure for a T of that size. As for feeding frequencies, i feed my large NW once every two week with a small cricket. This ensures that the T will only fast for a couple of weeks when they're in premolt, and it also lessens the risk of an abdominal injury due to obesity. For a very slow growing T like an A chalcodes, once every two week with an appropriately sized prey item (not too big) should be enough.

 

[Jesse607]

I have 14 A. chalcodes of various sizes, from time to time I will get an adorable threat pose and "slap" when it's time to feed. Normal tarantula behavior. I would definitely add a few fast(er) growing, good eating Ts to your collection, maybe a few B. vagans or B. albopilosum.

 

[TwiztedNinja]

I have a .5" A. chalcodes that loves to burrow

My adult doesnt eat often, which made me go out and get a B. albopilosum as a second T. lol. Night and day difference in how often they eat

I now have 5 T's. Its impossible to own just one, as many species have their own unique behavior

 

[NukaMedia Exotics]

I'd put the hide up against the wall of the enclosure instead of having space on both sides, the hide is also big for it so I'd add some substrate to lessen the space underneath it making it a snugger fit for the T.

 

[Pandablergs]

I have 14 A. chalcodes of various sizes, from time to time I will get an adorable threat pose and "slap" when it's time to feed. Normal tarantula behavior. I would definitely add a few fast(er) growing, good eating Ts to your collection, maybe a few B. vagans or B. albopilosum.

Hahaha I have my eye on a juvenile albopilosum nearby I'm trying to figure out if/when I should pull the trigger.

 

[Kitara]

Hahaha I have my eye on a juvenile albopilosum nearby I'm trying to figure out if/when I should pull the trigger.

Do it! Taking care of two is no more trouble than taking care of one. My B. albopilosum was my first. Well, my daughter's first really. I got a GBB because I wanted my own haha. I have 5 now (all NW "beginner" ones) and it is still so easy. For me, 5 is a good amount because the care is not overwhelming. I dont need a ton of feeders. ( I'm a newbie too.)

 

[Pandablergs]

Do it! Taking care of two is no more trouble than taking care of one. My B. albopilosum was my first. Well, my daughter's first really. I got a GBB because I wanted my own haha. I have 5 now (all NW "beginner" ones) and it is still so easy. For me, 5 is a good amount because the care is not overwhelming. I dont need a ton of feeders. ( I'm a newbie too.)

I was eventually hoping for a small, colorful collection with a gbb and a couple pamphobeteus species and a versicolor. Not sure how deep I want to get in just yet because my roommates are gonna kill me. They know I'm the type to go in really hard on a new hobby and they're Kind of just waiting for the shoe to drop.