I am unsure what's wrong with my rose hair

[CorsePerVita]

If you had it on its belly, and you came home to find it on its back....probably a molt.

Some of them do get quite lifeless before a molt. For future reference, never flip over a tarantula. Just in case.

Didn't know that. Will just leave him be entirely for now and check back later.

 

[Bill S]

Can you flip it over and supply a photo of its belly?

Rather than flipping an animal that is already in distress, consider placing it in a container that will allow you to photograph it from underneath. A petri dish is great for small animals like scorpions. For larger ones a piece of glass - just contain the animal with an inverted deli cup or other container.

 

[Stan Schultz]

... when I opened it he was flipped over on his back. I flipped him back over to see if he responded, no response but he looks anything but lifeless, he just won't move.

Is he molting? ...

Yup!

... He had some water on his mouth area. ...

That's okay. Sometimes they drool a little whenever they're straining. Right now it's straining hard!

You're off to a rough start with this one, partly because the tarantula has an exceptional history, partly because you have little or no experience with it. Don't stress over it. Leave it alone until it's finished molting. Leave it in the ICU. Take the ICU's cover off and place the tarantula/ICU combo back in its cage. DO NOT touch or otherwise move the tarantula!

Over the next several days the ICU will dry out. That's a good thing. Once the tarantula has finished molting and its new exoskeleton has hardened it will crawl out of the now useless ICU all by itself, and you can remove the ICU, clean it up, and store it away for the next time you need one.

Let the old, shed skin dry out, and save it regardless of how beat up it looks. After this little episode is over we'll tell you how to determine whether it's a male or female by looking at the old skin.

In looking at your photo I get a distinct hunch that your rose may be an immature male (At least before it molts. After it finishes molting it could be a mature male.), but I can't pin down exactly why I have that feeling. We really need to look at that old skin a little later.

Do not try to feed the tarantula for about 10 days or 2 weeks after it molts. Immediately after it molts it won't be able to eat because its new exoskeleton is still too soft and fragile. It is possible that it might eat sooner than 10 days, but these animals really don't need to eat that quickly or that much, and the extra time will allow it to do some much needed meditating. Once it does begin to eat, 6 large crickets a month is almost overfeeding it. It would also do just fine on 4 large crickets a month. Go real easy on the food.

Most of the time you will find yourself with your favorite beverage, on your favorite piece of furniture, with your favorite CD in the player, practicing yoga or meditating with the tarantula. Tarantulas do a lot of meditating.

Understanding a tarantula is a transcendental experience.

Enjoy your sublime tarantula.

 

[CorsePerVita]

Well guys.... it has still not moved from it's spot. Doesn't smell... but has not moved an inch I'm worried. Has it been too long? Or should I give it a few more days.

 

[Stan Schultz]

Well guys.... it has still not moved from it's spot. Doesn't smell... but has not moved an inch I'm worried. Has it been too long? Or should I give it a few more days.

Ten days to 2 weeks unless it begins to smell dead. Let the ICU dry out. Leave it alone. It'll do its thing, just like it has for many years already without a lot of worry or stress on your part.

Consider this to be a learning experience. You're learning patience and you're learning how a completely different life form behaves. Not everything on this planet jumps up and down hysterically, or runs around in a mad frenzy. Not all music is heavy metal. There's a lot of Mozart out there too.

Take time to enjoy the moment. In a second it'll be gone forever.

 

[elm199]

so what happened? I hate cliffhanger endings!

 

[Formerphobe]

Well, that thread is over a year old... but you have me curious, too!

 

[jgod790]

G rosea basic care

Ive had a G rosea, aka rose hair, for 10 years now. First off, if its a male, they dont live long regardless how well you care for it. Ok so as someone already mentioned GET RID OF THE HEAT LAMP! It is not necessary, and possibly annoying/harming your T. I have NEVER used any kind of heating source for my G rosea. During the winter, if the room gets colder then 40 degrees, use a heating pad on the SIDE (not bottom) of the tank. Not a crazy heating pad, just one that makes the temp go up 5 to 10 degrees. G rosea can actually survive in temperatures as low as 32 degrees with no ill effects. Try to keep the room temperature around 70/75 for ultimate comfort for the G rosea. And if it gets down to even 32, the T will be fine, not comfortable or happy, but it will survive. And keep the substrate fairly dry. Keep a full water dish at all times, but no need to mist or wet the substrate. They actually dislike damp substrate and it will stress them out and make them unhappy. And thats all you need to know to keep a G rosea alive and happy. Avoid big heavy and hard objects, as G rosea are clumsy climbers, they WILL climb sometimes, and they WILL fall. so keep that in mind while decorating as it is very easy to cause internal bleeding in the abdomen. So dont have anything that would make for a hard fall.

 

[KoriTamashii]

Ive had a G rosea, aka rose hair, for 10 years now. First off, if its a male, they dont live long regardless how well you care for it. Ok so as someone already mentioned GET RID OF THE HEAT LAMP! It is not necessary, and possibly annoying/harming your T. I have NEVER used any kind of heating source for my G rosea. During the winter, if the room gets colder then 40 degrees, use a heating pad on the SIDE (not bottom) of the tank. Not a crazy heating pad, just one that makes the temp go up 5 to 10 degrees. G rosea can actually survive in temperatures as low as 32 degrees with no ill effects. Try to keep the room temperature around 70/75 for ultimate comfort for the G rosea. And if it gets down to even 32, the T will be fine, not comfortable or happy, but it will survive. And keep the substrate fairly dry. Keep a full water dish at all times, but no need to mist or wet the substrate. They actually dislike damp substrate and it will stress them out and make them unhappy. And thats all you need to know to keep a G rosea alive and happy. Avoid big heavy and hard objects, as G rosea are clumsy climbers, they WILL climb sometimes, and they WILL fall. so keep that in mind while decorating as it is very easy to cause internal bleeding in the abdomen. So dont have anything that would make for a hard fall.

Buddy.... check the thread date.

 

[LadySharon]

ARG! again another old thread. I saw the janurary date but missed the year. so I thought it was only two months old and had an update. :wall: