What's the LAZIEST way to feed a tarantula?

[Nyx44]

I must admit, I'm a pretty lazy guy.

What's the laziest, yet acceptable way to feed a tarantula? I don't know about you but I hate keeping crickets - the smell, catching them, feeding them, rotting food, feces everywhere, cleaning etc

I am planning to get a Theraphosa stirmi, from what I've read they are ferocious eaters.

Is it possible to feed them in one sitting one day a week? Can you give it (6-10) store-bought crickets in just one day? I'm completely new to the hobby.

 

[nicodimus22]

The laziest way would be letting them loose in the cricket tank and taking them out a couple of days later.

6-10 crickets a week sounds like too much, even for a larger T. Many large Ts are fine with a couple of crickets a week or 1 adult dubia roach. Their slow metabolism lets them get by with a lot less food than you'd expect, especially when they are not growing any more.

 

[Walker253]

Is it possible to feed them in one sitting one day a week? Can you give it (6-10) store-bought crickets in just one day? I'm completely new to the hobby.

Yes

 

[PidderPeets]

Superworms and roaches are quieter, less smelly, and and lower maintenance than crickets. Some roaches also have more mass than crickets (dubia roaches for example) so it takes less to feed the T.

I don't have experience with anything from the Theraphosa genus, but 6 to 10 crickets a week actually sounds like too much. You might be able to give them that many every 2 or 3 weeks. Even big Ts don't usually have super crazy food requirements.

Thirdly, if you plan on starting with a stirmi, make sure you do all the proper research beforehand (the best info would be on here. Pet stores and online caresheets are full of terrible information). They're not considered a beginner species

 

[Nyx44]

Thanks for the answers guys, very helpful!

 

[boina]

Yep, as Pidder said: make sure you get your husbandry right if you get your stirmi. They are not forgiving of mistakes. And an adult spider can easily be fed once a month only. Just make sure it has access to water at all times. Slings and juveniles need to be fed more often but once a week is sufficient.

 

[Venom1080]

You could keep nightcrawlers in the fridge for a long time, and take them out for feeding.

Superworms are easy to keep and live for a long time. They do turn into beetles that some spiders don't like, but a Theraphosa will probably take it.

I would never bother with crickets if I had one-5 spiders.

 

[Ztesch]

I dont have a Stirmi but the most efficient way to feed T's is with meal worms for slings and superworms for juveniles and adults. Mealworms and superworms last a lot longer then crickets and are cheap. Just make sure you don't let them burrow. Also you can smash the heads and you can leave them in for a bit.

 

[BC1579]

My first T was a stirmi. I didn’t find the husbandry overwhelming, but I had a lot of help from the regulars here at AB.

That said, I don’t know if I’d recommend one as a starter T. While mine has been forgiving, I definitely fretted over substrate moisture and such more than I should have.

There a lot of Ts out there with drier preferences, which lessens the chance for new-keeper worry.

I way overfed mine, as well. It led to her fasting for two months or so while her body was prepping for a molt. Not the worst thing in the world, but a big lethargic arachnid that won’t eat and doesn’t have eye-popping coloration or prolific webbing makes for a rough start in the hobby.

So I went out and bought a few new Ts and slings in the meantime to fill my needs for active T keeping.

Also, stirmi hairs are widely considered to be among the worst and most irritating of all OW Ts, so take that into consideration. I love my big girl, but I think it will be my last stirmi for this reason alone.

 

[darkness975]

I really do not understand how so many people complain about all these issues with crickets. I kept them for years and never had excessive smell or crap everywhere. Don't keep too many in one tank, keep it dry, and feed them dried foods with the occasional carrot or whatever for moisture.

I keep super worms now. Admittedly they are a lot easier to keep.

To answer @Nyx44 , the "laziest" way to feed a Tarantula is also the most natural. Drop the cricket in there and let it hunt it itself.

 

[cold blood]

What's the laziest, yet acceptable way to feed a tarantula?

For slings, diced meal worms...so easy...and so lazy...I love it...great growth rates with minimal feedings as you can offer larger chunks than you would with live prey.

nom nom (Nhandu chromatus)

• cold blood
• Aug 17, 2017
• 7
• brazilian red and white tarantula chromatus feeding nhandu nhandu chromatus sling white striped birdeater

chromatus 2i

For adults, I use sterilite for most of mine, and use a drill bit larger than a superworm for ventilaton. This means I can put a super through the ventilation near the t, and just wait for it to take it.

I'm completely new to the hobby. I am planning to get a Theraphosa stirmi

Terrible idea. Possibly the worst NW beginner species (no, genus) there is. Its stupid how many die in the hands of over-eager new keepers.

While their keeping isn't rocket science, you do need to understand things first, as when things go wrong, they can go downhill fast with Theraposa. Just getting that balance of moisture and ventilation can be difficult....but being able to recognize cues from the t are invaluable.

I highly urge you to look for a better species.

A. geniculata is an option...not the best beginner either, but worlds better than a Theraposa...and they are much more of a "wow" species and also share their appetite (practically) and growth. Highly enjoyable to raise and own. And they get very large in their own right.

Is it possible to feed them in one sitting one day a week? Can you give it (6-10) store-bought crickets in just one day?

You are thinking way too often with the feedings. Adults can be fed once or twice a month if you like, just feed more or larger prey items. Now Theraposa need food more regularly when young (as do most large tropicals)...but once a week is still just fine and dandy....how many feeders depends on what your feeders are, and how big they are. If you want to feed less, just feed larger prey items like adult roaches...avoid feeding verts like you see clowns on you tube doing...they are setting a poor example.

 

[BC1579]

 

[The Grym Reaper]

I really do not understand how so many people complain about all these issues with crickets. I kept them for years and never had excessive smell or crap everywhere. Don't keep too many in one tank, keep it dry, and feed them dried foods with the occasional carrot or whatever for moisture.

Same here, all I see is "they stink and die in droves for no reason at all", never had that problem, my only problems with them were that the MMs chirping drove me bloody crazy and that smaller crickets would quickly outgrow my slings which meant I had a surplus of adults.

 

[Devin B]

Luckily tarantulas are extremely low maintenance pets. They require only slightly more time and energy to take care of than a pet rock. You only really need to feed it once a week or once every other week. As others have said, crickets are lame, roaches or superworms are the way to go. They dont smell and are easy to catch. All you gotta do is drop one of those prey items somewhat near your T a couple times a month and your all done.
Even an extremely lazy person should have no problem with a T.

 

[Nyx44]

I can tell this is an excellent forum so far thanks all!

Terrible idea. Possibly the worst NW beginner species (no, genus) there is. Its stupid how many die in the hands of over-eager new keepers.

While their keeping isn't rocket science, you do need to understand things first, as when things go wrong, they can go downhill fast with Theraposa. Just getting that balance of moisture and ventilation can be difficult....but being able to recognize cues from the t are invaluable.

I highly urge you to look for a better species.

A. geniculata is an option...not the best beginner either, but worlds better than a Theraposa...and they are much more of a "wow" species and also share their appetite (practically) and growth. Highly enjoyable to raise and own. And they get very large in their own right.



You are thinking way too often with the feedings. Adults can be fed once or twice a month if you like, just feed more or larger prey items. Now Theraposa need food more regularly when young (as do most large tropicals)...but once a week is still just fine and dandy....how many feeders depends on what your feeders are, and how big they are. If you want to feed less, just feed larger prey items like adult roaches...avoid feeding verts like you see clowns on you tube doing...they are setting a poor example.

Is it really just mainly a matter of humidity/ventilation that makes this genus difficult? I just really like the looks of this species, I don't mind it being less active than others.

Let's say I'm stubborn and decide to get one eventually anyways. I would get a large acrylic cage (how important is cross-ventilation btw?), 4-5 inches of substrate, keep the humidity around 80-85, feed superworms once a week.

Is that really all there is to it or am I missing something?

 

[cold blood]

Is it really just mainly a matter of humidity/ventilation that makes this genus difficult?

Its more than that...

I don't mind it being less active than others

Its not less active.

Let's say I'm stubborn and decide to get one eventually anyways.

You are entitled to make mistakes, but remember, there's an animal's life you are taking a chance with.

4-5 inches of substrate, keep the humidity around 80-85

See, prime example of not being ready...no offense.

But clearly you are staking your ability on being well read on care sheet info. Care sheets kill tarantulas, plain and simple.

4-5 inches of substrate---the amount of substrate needed is a product of where/how its housed. If for example, you were housing it in a tallish aquarium, you may need 12 inches of sub just to make is safe.....If you housed it in a shallower sterilite tub, you could probably get away with 3 or 4 with a proper hide.

keep the humidity around 80-85---start chasing humidity numbers and you will be here asking what's wrong in no time. No t requires number specific humidity...its pointless to even measure. What they need s damp substrate that doesn't dry out quickly. How much water you add and how often will be dictated by your areas ambient humidity....example: if you live in a dry place, you will need to add more water, more often...you will also require less ventilation....

Its not like you need 100 years of experience and 500 ts...but it will be invaluable if you raise one or three over the course of a year so you know what you need to do for your particular area and living space. Without any experience, you are trying to figure it out on the fly...and as you have no experience as to what the right conditions are/look like, how do you actually know when you are getting it wrong? We see it all the time.

Is that really all there is to it or am I missing something?

If that were it, they would be a beginner species.


FWIW, don't think this was a bashing session, its not meant to be, its meant to be helpful with regards to making a better, more informed decision.

 

[Ellenantula]

Luckily tarantulas are extremely low maintenance pets. They require only slightly more time and energy to take care of than a pet rock.

This was my thought upon reading thread title. Feeding my Ts is probably the easiest thing I do each week. Even raising feeders for my Ts, feeding them is still probably the easiest thing I do all year.
It's not even work to feed them -- it's all joy just seeing them so happily doing their food-happy tippy-toe circle dance.

 

[boina]

Let me just add a few thoughts to @cold blood s humidity/ventilation discussion.

You will find endless care sheets defining humidity numbers for Theraphosa and they are all wrong and I'd pose they are among the main reasons so many Theraphosa die. NO, they do NOT need 80-85% humidity. Tarantulas have a practically water proof exosceleton and ambient humidity does nothing for them at all. What they need is moist substrate. While that moisture avaporates the few mm above it will become saturated with humidity. This is the area where the spider sits. The very sensitive book lungs on the underside of the tarantuala and the one part of it that really is in danger of drying out will be bathed in highly humid air constantly because they are directly above the substrate.

High humidity everywhere has one big disadvantage: It's a great way to breed bacteria. Bacteria just love humid, warm conditions with little air flow so there's nothing to blow them away. If, just by chance, you get the wrong bacteria inside your enclosure your tarantula may get an infection and then one day you come home to an unexplained sudden tarantula death.

Trying to get ambient humidity up to 80% or above has another big disadvantage: Cheap humidity gauges are notoriously inaccurate, especially when it comes to higher humidity numbers. So, you may be overwatering the substrate, making your tarantual live in a swamp, restricting the ventilation more and more (and all mold and bacteria go: yay!) just to reach that magic number... not a good idea.

Personally I'm against restricting ventilation in any way. I know it has worked for many people but that doesn't mean it's the best solution ever. Just poor water into the substrate more often to keep it moist - and DO NOT MIST. That just won't work. But I also know that I, myself, live in a rather humid climate, so what works for me may not work for someone living in a desert. That's where experience comes in: You need to know how to keep a substrate reliably moist but not swampy in your climate and conditions, preferably before you start experimenting with a living (and expensive) being.

Oh, and then you will invariably find mold and mites and whatever in your enclosure (warm and moist... everything grows), so you should figure out what to do then before you start...

Still sounds easy?

 

[Dennis Nedry]

If you're responsible I think anybody can keep a T. stirmi, care isn't as simple as some other Ts but it's pretty easy if you do it right

 

[bryverine]

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