was wondering if anyone had ideas for humidity control

losct2381

Arachnosquire
Joined
Dec 2, 2010
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76
i have been having problems putting together a setup for humidity control i have made a hood out of 1/4 plexi with 2 2inch vent and a floor register i can control like a vet with a lever but still i either get too highg or find myself misting everyday sometimes 2 times a day any one got any ideas





 

SarahAntula

Arachnopeon
Joined
Nov 6, 2010
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+1 Agreed Foggers with timer make it a lot easier to control the humidity.

I found this timer & fogger setup to work great for my T blondi and T spinipes.
(Avail at home depot)

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1vZ1xie/R-100685864/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053
I also have that fogger and another timer on My A. Avic.


there is less worry when I know the humidity is perfect.

It has intervals of 15 minutes per hour. I had mine set at 15min per hour on low, I increased the settings to accommodate the added heater in the room. You can keep an eye on the hygrometer and adjust the timer as needed. :)

IMO these Foggers are also great because they help circulate fresh air(fan inside the fogger) in the enclosures w/ normal maintenance helps in keeping mold and critters down.
 
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curiousme

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Dec 11, 2008
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What species are you stressing so much about humidity for?
 

losct2381

Arachnosquire
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Dec 2, 2010
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76
Yeah man having trouble with that and on top of it all I'm worried cause he's in heave premolt sluggish won't eat constantly find him in his water bowl he's not burrowing lots of issues with him just want him to molt so I can fix his enclosure issues
 

SarahAntula

Arachnopeon
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Nov 6, 2010
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I'm more worried about my t-spinipes and t- blondi
THe foggers are $50 bucks a piece. So I did not have to spend $100 on two foggers. SInce my T blondi and T spinipes humidity requirements are the same.
I was able to split the Fogger connection so I could use it for both. I split it by using an old albuterol nebulizer T & electrical tape, I know you can get a small plumbing T and do the same. Good luck wish you the best on your molt :)
 

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SarahAntula

Arachnopeon
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Nov 6, 2010
Messages
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Yeah man having trouble with that and on top of it all I'm worried cause he's in heave premolt sluggish won't eat constantly find him in his water bowl he's not burrowing lots of issues with him just want him to molt so I can fix his enclosure issues
I like your idea with the vents too btw! :clap:
What is their enclosure temp at?
 
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losct2381

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Dec 2, 2010
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I got the tank temp at abot 85 to 87 The vents on the top help so much to be able to adjust them
 

SarahAntula

Arachnopeon
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Nov 6, 2010
Messages
46
I got the tank temp at abot 85 to 87 The vents on the top help so much to be able to adjust them
I know your worry and concern I obsess over them..

I feed my Bigger T Spinipes 6-7 crickets a day for 4-5 days. Depending on if she is hungry... i give her 1-3 at a time if she is not interested in it I take them out I have noticed she does not like crickets in her space if she is not hungry...
To keep me from freaking out over her eating I keep detailed logs so I can keep track of how much she is eating.
It helps me not to spaz out if she does not eat for a day or two.

I try and keep my Theraphosa temp aimed at 80F.

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=195474

http://www.arachnoboards.com/ab/showthread.php?t=168263&highlight=ceramic

From my searching on the web supposedly their nominal temp in their burrows in the wild are around 75-80.??

I see that you are from Ct.
Do you have a heat lamp on the enclosure? thought I might have noticed the red glow.. :)

Heating and Humidity makes for a very delicate dance. I have had to do this very dance and its a pain..
More heat = less humidity... :(

Heat can also cause rapid dehydration.

But proper heat also adds to metabolism.

Our house has horrible heat loss and the crappy heat mats on the side help very little.

I know there is a large debate about heating.
This may sound a little overkill maybe I'm wrong..

again I am not an expert....Im not trying to hijack this thread..

I just am giving some examples of what I have done to try and maintain safe.. heat/humidity levels.

And make my Theraphosa T's Comfortable because they are so sensitive and I love them more than I would a child. {D

my other pet rock T's are in another room and do not have such as an elaborate setup as my Theraphosa.

I know that alum foil blocks IR light.
I might as well have a aluminum foil hershy kiss on my head..
I wrapped the outside of the tanks in Aluminum foil for 3 reasons.(left the front exposed)
1) to help the terrible heat mat the heat evenly in a 60ish degree room.
I have been monitoring the temperature with probes in several locations in enclosure and in room both horizontaly and vertically.
Heat loss has been so bad I have had to purchase 2 ceramic heat emitters and on dimmers for the room ....
2) the aluminum foil also acts as an IR barrier so as not to over cook/dehydrate the T's with infrared waves from certian angles.
the ceramic heat emmiters have given me in the room a delta rise of approx 15 degrees. The heating pads gave a 2 degree increase. Heating pads with foil 4 degrees.
3)Foil/any tank wrap also adds privacy for your T.

Again I have the heat balanced with the humidity.

with the heat emmiter placed High above the cage imo it is good to have it so she can escape the IR heat rays lets say top half covered with foil.?

I have also burried her plastic shipping container (A large round screw top gladware) in the substrate at a 45 degree angle and have added an above ground hide as well with a 4" pvc plumbing T. (She has her choice of temperatures & hides)

Again good luck with your Theraphosa..
I hope he starts acting normally soon :)
Wish you nothing but the best happy and comfortable T's :)
 

losct2381

Arachnosquire
Joined
Dec 2, 2010
Messages
76
What I did instead of a heat pad was I went an got a 25 ft heating cable and used some zip ties and in a zig zag pattern using the zip ties attach them to a screen top I think it's a ten gallon top then attach son thin plexi strips on the 4 sides of the screen top and then just place the screen top flat on a shelf as if it was standin in the bottom an the plexi help the tank not slip off then attached it all to a thermostat with a probe inside the take I thinks it's a zill model thermostat an now I can get the tank up too 102 deg f wig no lamps the lamp u see is for my pythons but them being in the same area I'm sure helps with ambient heat try it it really works good with the cable
 

SarahAntula

Arachnopeon
Joined
Nov 6, 2010
Messages
46
Thx good to know heat tape works that well wasn't sure since the heat pads are terrible :)
Good ideas :)
 
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