Theraphosa care and info

Teds ts and Inverts

Arachnobaron
Active Member
Joined
Nov 10, 2017
Messages
311
Yep .i have to say ive been keeping mine this way for some time now.with good cross flow ventilation on sides thru perspex sheeting(on side s of glass aquaruim on vivaruim track) .since someone mentioned temp yeh it doesnt have to be 28.c i know.im currently translating a book(boris striffler) and the climate for theraphosa blondi is nearer 25.c all
Year round but 30.c for t.apophysis.i find 22.c to 24.c(day to be ideal in any case.
Yup, keeping Theraphosa in aquariums is definitely not for everyone, but if you know how to set it up correctly, I don’t see an issue with it :)
 

SteveIDDQD

Arachnosquire
Joined
Dec 4, 2018
Messages
72
Hi Everyone, I'm new here, but been a keeper for 12 years.

Was looking for a modern take on Theraphosa requirements, as the various care sheets available online seemed off to me, and I found this thread. Thank you all for the great info, especially Nightstalker47!
I have a 3.5cm sling T.blondi arriving any day, and I want to get the set up right, as I've not had a species requiring the more damp conditions of this guy before.
I have a shallow deli cup set up with plenty of 1mm holes around the edge, and a few in the lid. I've kept some moist coco fibre, a bottle cap water dish and a little moss in there for 4 days and it's not dried out too much, and no mould. :) I also have some springtails to add too for when there's food leftovers in there.
Now I'm thinking it may be best to start with something bigger as it seems it'll grow pretty fast... Maybe a 3ltr "really useful box" type thing? Or I've got some 3ltr Braplast tubs going spare? Doesn't look like they have any issue hunting down food in a bigger enclosure...
Thanks again.
 

esa space station

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jun 3, 2018
Messages
204
Hi Everyone, I'm new here, but been a keeper for 12 years.

Was looking for a modern take on Theraphosa requirements, as the various care sheets available online seemed off to me, and I found this thread. Thank you all for the great info, especially Nightstalker47!
I have a 3.5cm sling T.blondi arriving any day, and I want to get the set up right, as I've not had a species requiring the more damp conditions of this guy before.
I have a shallow deli cup set up with plenty of 1mm holes around the edge, and a few in the lid. I've kept some moist coco fibre, a bottle cap water dish and a little moss in there for 4 days and it's not dried out too much, and no mould. :) I also have some springtails to add too for when there's food leftovers in there.
Now I'm thinking it may be best to start with something bigger as it seems it'll grow pretty fast... Maybe a 3ltr "really useful box" type thing? Or I've got some 3ltr Braplast tubs going spare? Doesn't look like they have any issue hunting down food in a bigger enclosure...
Thanks again.
Braplast tubs are fine Germans swear by them.most People opt for rubs(large plastic boxs as they get older or glass with cross ventilation plexi sheets on vivaruim track with drilled cross flow ventilation)stop me if im getting to wordy here think of all the fun you will have.
 

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Nightstalker47

Arachnoking
Joined
Jul 2, 2016
Messages
2,554
Hi Everyone, I'm new here, but been a keeper for 12 years.

Was looking for a modern take on Theraphosa requirements, as the various care sheets available online seemed off to me, and I found this thread. Thank you all for the great info, especially Nightstalker47!
I have a 3.5cm sling T.blondi arriving any day, and I want to get the set up right, as I've not had a species requiring the more damp conditions of this guy before.
I have a shallow deli cup set up with plenty of 1mm holes around the edge, and a few in the lid. I've kept some moist coco fibre, a bottle cap water dish and a little moss in there for 4 days and it's not dried out too much, and no mould. :) I also have some springtails to add too for when there's food leftovers in there.
Now I'm thinking it may be best to start with something bigger as it seems it'll grow pretty fast... Maybe a 3ltr "really useful box" type thing? Or I've got some 3ltr Braplast tubs going spare? Doesn't look like they have any issue hunting down food in a bigger enclosure...
Thanks again.
Yeah that should be just fine for now, good hunters would be an understatement. Now it will definitely outgrow the deli cup quickly, so a larger enclosure would be fine right off the bat, just make sure it has a nice hide...thats where it will spend most of its time. These basically double in size with each molt during the early stages of growth, so you would be saving yourself the hassle of rehousing several times over. Feel free to share pictures of your setup, and Ill give you some feedback.

Welcome to the forums.
 

esa space station

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jun 3, 2018
Messages
204
Yeah that should be just fine for now, good hunters would be an understatement. Now it will definitely outgrow the deli cup quickly, so a larger enclosure would be fine right off the bat, just make sure it has a nice hide...thats where it will spend most of its time. These basically double in size with each molt during the early stages of growth, so you would be saving yourself the hassle of rehousing several times over. Feel free to share pictures of your setup, and Ill give you some feedback.

Welcome to the forums.
Hi got some t blondi pics up in sexing gallery could you take a look tell me what u think thanks
 

Nightstalker47

Arachnoking
Joined
Jul 2, 2016
Messages
2,554
Hi got some t blondi pics up in sexing gallery could you take a look tell me what u think thanks
Your pictures were pretty out of focus, but it looks like you have a female...if you can get clearer photos it would help me confirm.

As a note for other readers that are inquiring about this, Theraphosa are very easy to vent sex once they surpass the 3-4'' mark. Males will have a large triangular patch right above the furrow, whereas this is absent with females.
 

SteveIDDQD

Arachnosquire
Joined
Dec 4, 2018
Messages
72
Yeah that should be just fine for now, good hunters would be an understatement. Now it will definitely outgrow the deli cup quickly, so a larger enclosure would be fine right off the bat, just make sure it has a nice hide...thats where it will spend most of its time. These basically double in size with each molt during the early stages of growth, so you would be saving yourself the hassle of rehousing several times over. Feel free to share pictures of your setup, and Ill give you some feedback.

Welcome to the forums.
Thanks for the welcome and advice.

I've attached a somewhat rubbish photo (this tablet has the worse camera ever), there is a cork hide and a water dish. It's about 10/11cm diameter. For reference, the one next to it is a large deli cup with my gbb sling inside.

One last thing to pick your brain about, do you add any additional heat for your blondi? I ask because I keep all my T 's at room temperature, so a max of 21/22, and lower at night. I have put a large heatmat on the wall behind my T shelves this winter, but it's at least 3cm from any of the enclosures and I'm pretty sure it doesn't help too much. I don't like the idea of having heatmats actually touching any enclosures though.
 

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esa space station

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jun 3, 2018
Messages
204
Thanks for the welcome and advice.

I've attached a somewhat rubbish photo (this tablet has the worse camera ever), there is a cork hide and a water dish. It's about 10/11cm diameter. For reference, the one next to it is a large deli cup with my gbb sling inside.

One last thing to pick your brain about, do you add any additional heat for your blondi? I ask because I keep all my T 's at room temperature, so a max of 21/22, and lower at night. I have put a large heatmat on the wall behind my T shelves this winter, but it's at least 3cm from any of the enclosures and I'm pretty sure it doesn't help too much. I don't like the idea of having heatmats actually touching any enclosures though.
I would use heat mats if i were you those temps at 21-22 are ok at night but id up it 2-3 degrees to be safe .heat mats provide a good bit of heat
I use a hygro/thermo probe inside the burrow its 2 inch away from heat mat and in ideal range although said t usually gos about 3 inches away from it(to self regulate)
 

boina

Lady of the mites
Arachnosupporter
Joined
Mar 25, 2015
Messages
2,202
Thanks for the welcome and advice.

I've attached a somewhat rubbish photo (this tablet has the worse camera ever), there is a cork hide and a water dish. It's about 10/11cm diameter. For reference, the one next to it is a large deli cup with my gbb sling inside.

One last thing to pick your brain about, do you add any additional heat for your blondi? I ask because I keep all my T 's at room temperature, so a max of 21/22, and lower at night. I have put a large heatmat on the wall behind my T shelves this winter, but it's at least 3cm from any of the enclosures and I'm pretty sure it doesn't help too much. I don't like the idea of having heatmats actually touching any enclosures though.
Those temps are perfectly fine. My whole collection lives at those temps and has been for years and I have spiders that are much more sensitive than Theraphosa. You are right to be wary of heat mats. The local heat they provide can get very dangerous.
 

SteveIDDQD

Arachnosquire
Joined
Dec 4, 2018
Messages
72
Those temps are perfectly fine. My whole collection lives at those temps and has been for years and I have spiders that are much more sensitive than Theraphosa. You are right to be wary of heat mats. The local heat they provide can get very dangerous.
Thanks, this is good news. I've also never had any issue in the past, but I've mostly kept hardy little tanks.
I'm going to measure the temperature tonight on the shelf and see what it get down to. We are in a very old solid stone walled house in the UK, so even with the central heating ticking over, I can see it dropping down to between 12 and 17 in the winter (the thermostat is set at 17 for the whole house).

Thanks for the welcome and advice.

I've attached a somewhat rubbish photo (this tablet has the worse camera ever), there is a cork hide and a water dish. It's about 10/11cm diameter. For reference, the one next to it is a large deli cup with my gbb sling inside.

One last thing to pick your brain about, do you add any additional heat for your blondi? I ask because I keep all my T 's at room temperature, so a max of 21/22, and lower at night. I have put a large heatmat on the wall behind my T shelves this winter, but it's at least 3cm from any of the enclosures and I'm pretty sure it doesn't help too much. I don't like the idea of having heatmats actually touching any enclosures though.
Sorry, That was a terrible photo!

Better one from my phone attached - 3cm GBB sling for scale, if you can spot him.
 

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esa space station

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jun 3, 2018
Messages
204
Thanks, this is good news. I've also never had any issue in the past, but I've mostly kept hardy little tanks.
I'm going to measure the temperature tonight on the shelf and see what it get down to. We are in a very old solid stone walled house in the UK, so even with the central heating ticking over, I can see it dropping down to between 12 and 17 in the winter (the thermostat is set at 17 for the whole house).
Yep weather is not great in uk when using heat mats always think e.g its 60 degrees so the heat mat has to add another 10-15 degrees that and a larger burrow with a warm&colder spot all common sense really plus if your substrate nice&damp humidity goes up temp might drop off a few degrees or substrate dry humidity low temp up a notch all trying to find and create that perfect microclimate around the spider.also might be great for a week then have to damp it down again a bit hope this helps

Female 5th moult.moulted two month ago ate like a horse now gone off
feed
Back on feed 2 day after pic bulking up nice as well!

:chicken::cat:
Your pictures were pretty out of focus, but it looks like you have a female...if you can get clearer photos it would help me confirm.

As a note for other readers that are inquiring about this, Theraphosa are very easy to vent sex once they surpass the 3-4'' mark. Males will have a large triangular patch right above the furrow, whereas this is absent with females.
:cat:
 
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SteveIDDQD

Arachnosquire
Joined
Dec 4, 2018
Messages
72
Update: The little/big guy is now settled in a braplast tub, with lots of 1mm holes drilled in all sides, and a few in the lid.
The delli cup looked on the small side once he was inside. The braplast should do him for a couple of moults, and then I'll go for something bigger - it's a shame the braplast's are only 75mm tall, 125mm would suit the height and width better and make it better for larger T's.

I can't believe how leggy he is, it really looks like a standard large UK house spider, but with long leg hairs and he's jet black. I dropped a cricket in after a few hours and left him to it. I checked back after 30 mins and he was eating it, so that's a good sign.
I gave him a hide, but on checking this morning he's till just sat in the open on a bit of moss. Just from moving him from the deli cup to the other box, he's not one to be pushed around - doesn't immediately bolt forward when pushed and we had a couple of threat postures toward the straw.

Once he's settled and calmer, I'll get some photos and upload for you all. tried taking some through the lid but they weren't very clear.
 

esa space station

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jun 3, 2018
Messages
204
Update: The little/big guy is now settled in a braplast tub, with lots of 1mm holes drilled in all sides, and a few in the lid.
The delli cup looked on the small side once he was inside. The braplast should do him for a couple of moults, and then I'll go for something bigger - it's a shame the braplast's are only 75mm tall, 125mm would suit the height and width better and make it better for larger T's.

I can't believe how leggy he is, it really looks like a standard large UK house spider, but with long leg hairs and he's jet black. I dropped a cricket in after a few hours and left him to it. I checked back after 30 mins and he was eating it, so that's a good sign.
I gave him a hide, but on checking this morning he's till just sat in the open on a bit of moss. Just from moving him from the deli cup to the other box, he's not one to be pushed around - doesn't immediately bolt forward when pushed and we had a couple of threat postures toward the straw.

Once he's settled and calmer, I'll get some photos and upload for you all. tried taking some through the lid but they weren't very clear.
Theres nothing more cute than a baby t blondi!well done
 

Nightstalker47

Arachnoking
Joined
Jul 2, 2016
Messages
2,554
UPDATE.

14 months later and the queen of the T room has molted again. Starting to look really brawny, this is typical in larger Theraphosa. They begin to thicken out at this stage, and grow much more negligibly in leg span.
20191110_155856.jpg
 
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