Theraphosa care and info

EDED

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
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Aug 12, 2004
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554
nobody talked about temperature

from my experience, these jungle floor dwelling species, Theraphosa , Pampho, Xenesthis
will do fine at low or mid 70s F, 23deg C

any other thoughts on the temp? they definitely seem stressed out when the temp gets near 80F (26deg C) or higher. They would come out of the hide and walk all over the tank<<trying to escape or avoid

also i noticed that
Theraphosa adults are surprisingly hardy, withstanding temporary dry spell, temperature drop etc, from my experience importing them.
 

Venom1080

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nobody talked about temperature

from my experience, these jungle floor dwelling species, Theraphosa , Pampho, Xenesthis
will do fine at low or mid 70s F, 23deg C

any other thoughts on the temp? they definitely seem stressed out when the temp gets near 80F (26deg C) or higher. They would come out of the hide and walk all over the tank<<trying to escape or avoid

also i noticed that
Theraphosa adults are surprisingly hardy, withstanding temporary dry spell, temperature drop etc, from my experience importing them.
Really? My room gets into the low eighties on occasion. I never noticed anything.
 

EDED

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
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Aug 12, 2004
Messages
554
yes thats why i asked others for their inputs,

however i am pretty sure they wouldnt do well at 85 or above.

I think thats why i am successful at breeding burrowing spiders only i keep them cooler,
where African and some other NW species need it much higher temp for their metabolism
 

AphonopelmaTX

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yes thats why i asked others for their inputs,

however i am pretty sure they wouldnt do well at 85 or above.

I think thats why i am successful at breeding burrowing spiders only i keep them cooler,
where African and some other NW species need it much higher temp for their metabolism
I noticed the same thing you described with my giant adult female T. stirmi. With temperatures over 100 degrees F in Texas for the past week, my spider room got to nearly 90 degrees F for a few days. The T. stirmi kept leaving its hide and wandered around its container. Since temperatures dropped in my spider room to below 85 degrees F, it settled down and went back to never coming out of its hide. In an attempt to remedy the high temperatures in its plastic container, I soaked the substrate with cool water which seemed to help it calm down some.
 

Nightstalker47

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Jul 2, 2016
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any other thoughts on the temp? they definitely seem stressed out when the temp gets near 80F (26deg C) or higher. They would come out of the hide and walk all over the tank<<trying to escape or avoid
however i am pretty sure they wouldnt do well at 85 or above.
Adult theraphosa seem most comfortable in the mid to low seventies just as you mentioned earlier, many have noticed this wandering behavior and its definitely temperature related. I can attest to keeping them slightly cooler as well, and they do just fine.

When it comes to breeding, high temps can be detrimental on the females...and cause the sacs to go bad, lots of the difficulty breeding this genus stems from keeping them too warm and thinking they need it. What we know for certain, is that these live in deep burrows underground where temps are much lower then the surface...and these wooded areas are all relatively cool and shaded.
 

Ultum4Spiderz

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Oct 13, 2011
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I noticed the same thing you described with my giant adult female T. stirmi. With temperatures over 100 degrees F in Texas for the past week, my spider room got to nearly 90 degrees F for a few days. The T. stirmi kept leaving its hide and wandered around its container. Since temperatures dropped in my spider room to below 85 degrees F, it settled down and went back to never coming out of its hide. In an attempt to remedy the high temperatures in its plastic container, I soaked the substrate with cool water which seemed to help it calm down some.
So you do not have air conditioning?

nobody talked about temperature

from my experience, these jungle floor dwelling species, Theraphosa , Pampho, Xenesthis
will do fine at low or mid 70s F, 23deg C

any other thoughts on the temp? they definitely seem stressed out when the temp gets near 80F (26deg C) or higher. They would come out of the hide and walk all over the tank<<trying to escape or avoid

also i noticed that
Theraphosa adults are surprisingly hardy, withstanding temporary dry spell, temperature drop etc, from my experience importing them.
I would wet them let substrate dry out when I had a sick T stirmi sold to me with a cyst . I tried my hardest to save it but it pushed lid off even with clips . And injured it’s abdom even worse re opening cyst , R.I.P.
Very tough T tough as nails as adults . So are phamphos.
 
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Nightstalker47

Arachnoking
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World record for fastest growing spider?

Just wanted to follow up on how crazy fast this genus can grow.

After noticing my largest stirmi molted last night, I took the opportunity to measure her molt and saw just how large she was. Without even stretching the molt in the least, she was 8'' on the dot.

Looking at her now, I would estimate she has grown another inch in DLS from this molt...her carapace has gotten enormous as well. To think that this spider is less then three years of age is just remarkable. Has anyone even experienced anything close to this? Literally went from 1.5'' to roughly 9'' in this short time span.

It seems unlikely to me, who knows...I might actually hold the record for fastest growing tarantula ever. 20180912_170039.jpg 20180912_170121.jpg
 

Venom1080

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World record for fastest growing spider?

Just wanted to follow up on how crazy fast this genus can grow.

After noticing my largest stirmi molted last night, I took the opportunity to measure her molt and saw just how large she was. Without even stretching the molt in the least, she was 8'' on the dot.

Looking at her now, I would estimate she has grown another inch in DLS from this molt...her carapace has gotten enormous as well. To think that this spider is less then three years of age is just remarkable. Has anyone even experienced anything close to this? Literally went from 1.5'' to roughly 9'' in this short time span.

It seems unlikely to me, who knows...I might actually hold the record for fastest growing tarantula ever. View attachment 286399 View attachment 286400
Sounds pretty typical to me honestly. Within 2 years you generally have a adult ~7" Poecilotheria.
 

Nightstalker47

Arachnoking
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Sounds pretty typical to me honestly. Within 2 years you generally have a adult ~7" Poecilotheria.
True enough, but comparatively poecs are much smaller in build then any Theraphosa, even an 8" female regalis is probably smaller then a six or seven inch theraphosa...if you see where im heading.

My female is doing the post molt stretching now, Ill see if I can get some quick pics of her...just crazy though. At roughly 9" now, shes bigger then any poec could ever be...physically anyway, some can actually get that large in leg span. ;)
 

Venom1080

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True enough, but comparatively poecs are much smaller in build then any Theraphosa, even an 8" female regalis is probably smaller then a six or seven inch theraphosa...if you see where im heading.

My female is doing the post molt stretching now, Ill see if I can get some quick pics of her...just crazy though. At roughly 9" now, shes bigger then any poec could ever be...physically anyway, some can actually get that large in leg span. ;)
Still same legspan ;)

I do see where you're going with it. But if one spider gets 7" in 2 years and another ten in 2.5, and ones thicker, which one really grew faster?
 

Nightstalker47

Arachnoking
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Still same legspan ;)

I do see where you're going with it. But if one spider gets 7" in 2 years and another ten in 2.5, and ones thicker, which one really grew faster?
I agree that leg span always comes first reference wise, still...never heard of any poec hitting 9" in less then three years.

Lets just put it this way, if you had both spiders side by side and they had an identical DLS, you would instantly know which one was bigger.

Theraphosa stirmi - mature spermathecae
20180912_013935.jpg AF post molt.
 
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Venom1080

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I agree that leg span always comes first reference wise, still...never heard of any poec hitting 9" in less then three years.

Lets just put it this way, if you had both spiders side by side and they had an identical DLS, you would instantly know which one was bigger.
That's fair.. and a challenge.. hopefully one day when I can breed rufilata or buy some more ornata off you I'll test that.

Ornata went from 3/4" to 5" in a year. Only about 2" in the next year. I'll let you know if she hits nine before Sept 9 2019. ;)
 

esa space station

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jun 3, 2018
Messages
204
I've tried a few different volume tubs in various shapes. Had a 45 litre cube shape half filled with sub but wasnt very much manoeuvring room when I introduced a male for mating.

View attachment 262848 View attachment 262849 The one in the picture is 84 litres but was a back breaker to lift as I had it half filled with pure top soil! I found a local supplier with peat moss now so I do a 50/50 mix with top soil which makes it far lighter and better at retaining moisture.

My favourite thus far is a 3ft x 1ft 64 litre tub although no lock mechanism on the lid so needs weighed down just incase :)
Hi how you doing mate!thought i saw that user name !i used to be on another site it was you who mentioned ze germans to me! Since then i have dealt with many and have got some t blondi 1.1s k
I've tried a few different volume tubs in various shapes. Had a 45 litre cube shape half filled with sub but wasnt very much manoeuvring room when I introduced a male for mating.

View attachment 262848 View attachment 262849 The one in the picture is 84 litres but was a back breaker to lift as I had it half filled with pure top soil! I found a local supplier with peat moss now so I do a 50/50 mix with top soil which makes it far lighter and better at retaining moisture.

My favourite thus far is a 3ft x 1ft 64 litre tub although no lock mechanism on the lid so needs weighed down just incase :)
Did u ever get a result with t blondi pairing any slings?

No, the substrate doesn't dry out very quick. Can't confirm that from my experience of using them.
That being said, I rewater every enclosure weekly since I have the time and not too much animals too care for.

Never had any issues with mositure retention. :)

€: I should mention Im from Germany, we don't have much dry air where Im from. Maybe thats important to note.
I really can't say the substrate dries up fast at all, trying to figure out why.
I get what your saying thou.
Ive Always found thats it best to water the soil a little near /slightly inside burrow and a dry layer pn top to maintain the humidity at acceptable level as compared fo the r h in the air .yes i know its pf some debate some kerp t blond either to wet or to dry id learned yo keep a happy medium

nobody talked about temperature

from my experience, these jungle floor dwelling species, Theraphosa , Pampho, Xenesthis
will do fine at low or mid 70s F, 23deg C

any other thoughts on the temp? they definitely seem stressed out when the temp gets near 80F (26deg C) or higher. They would come out of the hide and walk all over the tank<<trying to escape or avoid

also i noticed that
Theraphosa adults are surprisingly hardy, withstanding temporary dry spell, temperature drop etc, from my experience importing them.
Yrp i agree i remember the lovely sub female i paid 85 for 14 yr ago!blondest id ever seen!

Adult theraphosa seem most comfortable in the mid to low seventies just as you mentioned earlier, many have noticed this wandering behavior and its definitely temperature related. I can attest to keeping them slightly cooler as well, and they do just fine.

When it comes to breeding, high temps can be detrimental on the females...and cause the sacs to go bad, lots of the difficulty breeding this genus stems from keeping them too warm and thinking they need it. What we know for certain, is that these live in deep burrows underground where temps are much lower then the surface...and these wooded areas are all relatively cool and shaded.
Spot on 18-22 degrees inside burrow typically as light is only 15-25 percent after going thru forest canopy as well although i aim for 21-25 c with 70-80 humidity where the spider is in its microclimate the rest is kept dry
 
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Nightstalker47

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Spot on 18-22 degrees inside burrow typically as light is only 15-25 percent after going thru forest canopy as well although i aim for 21-25 c with 70-80 humidity where the spider is in its microclimate the rest is kept dry
Dont worry about ambient humidity numbers, its not something that really factors in...moist sub, good cross vent and you're all set.
 

Teds ts and Inverts

Arachnobaron
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Nov 10, 2017
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We have had so many threads lately on Theraphosa, and I find myself repeating the same thing time and time again. This thread will cover most of the common questions, hopefully it should be useful to some of the newer keepers, and may even save a few spiders from neglect. I'll start by going over the basics.

Care and husbandry:

Theraphosa were famously labelled as "swamp dwellers" in the tarantula keepers guide. This is quite misleading, and inadvertently lead to many common husbandry errors, as well as people obsessing over humidity numbers they do not require. They need moist sub, good ventilation and it's that simple. They aren't anymore difficult to keep, so long as you know what your doing.

Once you setup the spider properly your already pretty much in the clear. I prefer using sterilite/rubbermaid tubs for large Theraphosa. When you use glass aquariums, the ventilation ratio is almost always off. You either have too much, or not enough, both of which can be detrimental to your spider long term.

Setup:

For your custom enclosure. Start by drilling plenty of ventilation holes on the sides of the tub. I usually do three rows on each end. Give the spider plenty of substrate depth, and provide a partially buried hide, as they will take to burrowing...especially younger specimens. Larger individuals may abandon their hides/burrows as they grow, but they should still always have the option.

Maintenance:

Since these spiders consume so much food, you will have far more waste to clean up after. Spot cleaning is very important, as well as regularly providing the spider with clean drinking water. My specimens foul their water bowls after almost every meal, so stay on top of it or you will come back to something nasty one day.

Also, you will need to keep the substrate moist as it dries out. Poor water directly into the sub, and avoid misting...ineffective and will just send hairs airborne. Speaking of hairs, theraphosa have the worst urticating setae in the hobby. Hands off, always use tongs and be vigilant when doing maintenance...they tend to be rather voracious and are definitely prone to mistaking you for food.

Growth rates:

These are the fastest growing spiders you can get your hands on if kept right and fed often. I always emphasize on feeding theraphosa more then you would almost any other genus. It all goes towards growth. Obviously slow down on feeding with adults, but young growing spiders need as much as they can get. I had my female T.stirmi go from 1.5" to roughly 8" in less then two years time. My smaller unsexed specimen is too young to gauge as of now.

Size:

Theraphosa are the largest spiders in the hobby, commonly exceeding 9" in legspan. It was said that T.blondi is the largest of the genus, but truth is that T.stirmi get just as large if not larger. T.apophysis have the more slender build, and tend to be more leggy then the aforementioned species. All are stunning in their own right.

Identification:
Let's start with spiderlings.
T.stirmi will have four pink/white tarsi on the four front legs.
T.blondi will have no pink/white tarsi on any legs.
T.apophysis will have pink/white tarsi on all eight legs.

As adults or sub-adults, T.blondi is best distinguished by the heavy presence of setae on the pattella. Whereas it is absent with stirmi. T.apophysis doesn't really look like the other two species, so they are rarely ever confused. They also happen to be the only species within the genus that possess tibial hooks(mature males).

I think I covered most of it. Feel free to contribute to this thread. Pictures of any species within the genus are more then welcome.
Well done! I definitely agree that most people over-complicate the husbandry of Theraphosa. I will add that I keep my Female Juvenile T. stirmi in a glass aquarium with little to no issues. For ventilation, I just cover a portion of the screen top with paper towel (I will soon replace the screen top with vented plexiglass, as I don't want the T to get her feet stuck if she decides to climb), leaving two spaces in the lid for air flow (one on each side of the tank), and I used a glass drill bit to drill holes into the side of the aquarium for added ventilation. Nothing against the sterilite tubs, but the aquarium looks alot nicer and I've been keeping her with great success in it! :)
Cheers
 

Paul1126

Arachnodemon
Joined
Jun 14, 2017
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762
from my experience, these jungle floor dwelling species, Theraphosa , Pampho, Xenesthis
will do fine at low or mid 70s F, 23deg C
I am so glad someone with experience has said this, what boggled my brain when looking for care before this thread was the amount of YouTube videos/Care sheets from other forums saying Theraphosa need high temps 28C+
 

antinous

Pamphopharaoh
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Mar 28, 2013
Messages
1,468
I am so glad someone with experience has said this, what boggled my brain when looking for care before this thread was the amount of YouTube videos/Care sheets from other forums saying Theraphosa need high temps 28C+
I’ve seen some Pampho species at a nice crisp 60-65 degrees. Not saying all species should be kept like this, but there are always exception to this rule
 

cold blood

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I am so glad someone with experience has said this, what boggled my brain when looking for care before this thread was the amount of YouTube videos/Care sheets from other forums saying Theraphosa need high temps 28C+
Never read care sheets.
 

esa space station

Arachnoknight
Joined
Jun 3, 2018
Messages
204
Well done! I definitely agree that most people over-complicate the husbandry of Theraphosa. I will add that I keep my Female Juvenile T. stirmi in a glass aquarium with little to no issues. For ventilation, I just cover a portion of the screen top with paper towel (I will soon replace the screen top with vented plexiglass, as I don't want the T to get her feet stuck if she decides to climb), leaving two spaces in the lid for air flow (one on each side of the tank), and I used a glass drill bit to drill holes into the side of the aquarium for added ventilation. Nothing against the sterilite tubs, but the aquarium looks alot nicer and I've been keeping her with great success in it! :)
Cheers
Yep .i have to say ive been keeping mine this way for some time now.with good cross flow ventilation on sides thru perspex sheeting(on side s of glass aquaruim on vivaruim track) .since someone mentioned temp yeh it doesnt have to be 28.c i know.im currently translating a book(boris striffler) and the climate for theraphosa blondi is nearer 25.c all
Year round but 30.c for t.apophysis.i find 22.c to 24.c(day to be ideal in any case.
 

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