Gods Spartan
Arachnopeon
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2014
- Messages
- 47
Thanks for the input.Looks decent visually, nice job.
When you are writing subjective words like "thicker" etc, those are meaningless w/out knowing knowing what thickness you have
So given it's not square, what would you do in future to solve that issue for another build?
Questions to help people who will read this in the future:
What was the cost of materials?
What material is that?
~Time to complete
What product did you use to chemically weld the sides together, the hasps?
Source of hasps (they are easy to find, but you'd be surprised how many people ask us this)
Keep up the good work, you'll only get better!
Thanks for the input.Looks decent visually, nice job.
When you are writing subjective words like "thicker" etc, those are meaningless w/out knowing knowing what thickness you have
So given it's not square, what would you do in future to solve that issue for another build?
Questions to help people who will read this in the future:
What was the cost of materials?
What material is that?
~Time to complete
What product did you use to chemically weld the sides together, the hasps?
Source of hasps (they are easy to find, but you'd be surprised how many people ask us this)
Keep up the good work, you'll only get better!
Thanks for the input man! Always up for a little education so I can make improvements!Impressive for your second build.
Size of the enclosure dictates acrylic thickness for structural stability, IME.
Note: when drilling holes I use a tabletop drill press at highest speed and have a piece of plywood underneath. If possible use a 3 flute bit, carries the shavings out quicker and eliminates potential cracking. If you can't locate 3 flute bits, brad point bits work equally well, but need to go slow and lighter pressure applied. HSS bits should be avoided, they're for use on metal and result in chipping the acrylic.
I've built many arboreal enclosures and the size yours is, would personally use .180" thickness. Thickest I have ever used was .220" and only on 2 sides, more of a weight factor than structural integrity.
I would use Weld On bonding agent but given how I cut my acrylic pieces, use a 2 part epoxy instead.
All in all, as viper69 stated, the more you build the better you become. Keep up the good work. Kudos to you.![]()
How do your two part epoxy bonds look? I figure they won't make what a routered edge abd acrylic solvent will, but if I don't have to router edges to make a decent looking enclosure...Impressive for your second build.
Size of the enclosure dictates acrylic thickness for structural stability, IME.
Note: when drilling holes I use a tabletop drill press at highest speed and have a piece of plywood underneath. If possible use a 3 flute bit, carries the shavings out quicker and eliminates potential cracking. If you can't locate 3 flute bits, brad point bits work equally well, but need to go slow and lighter pressure applied. HSS bits should be avoided, they're for use on metal and result in chipping the acrylic.
I've built many arboreal enclosures and the size yours is, would personally use .180" thickness. Thickest I have ever used was .220" and only on 2 sides, more of a weight factor than structural integrity.
I would use Weld On bonding agent but given how I cut my acrylic pieces, use a 2 part epoxy instead.
All in all, as viper69 stated, the more you build the better you become. Keep up the good work. Kudos to you.![]()