S subspinipes piceoflava

[vyadha]

First Asian pede! S piceoflava "jewel" was what it was sold to me as. Gorgeous animal. Spooky fast!
I understand this species has little taxonomical classification beyond a S subspinipes subspecies. Is that currently accurate?
Any info greatly appreciated.

5.75"

 

[XxSpiderQueenxX]

Noice! I've always wanted to try my hand at keeping those! Here is some care... dont know if you need it tho!



The serious centipede enthusiast can look forward to a lifetime of interest and discovery. Over 3,000 species (class Chilopoda) have been described so far, and we know little about most! Biologists place Centipedes and the world’s 10,000+Millipedes in the same Super Order, Myriapoda, but any similarities end there. The name “Giant Centipede” is applied to a variety of species. Those most commonly seen in trade are the Amazonian Giant Centipede (Scolopendra gigantean) and the Vietnamese or Red-headed Centipede (S. subspinipes), but as many as 6 species have been recorded as being sold under the same name.


Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Katka Nemčoková

Centipede ownership requires consideration, and should only be undertaken by mature, cautious adults. Bites from various species have caused fevers, dizziness, cardiac problems, breathing difficulties and fatalities. Allergic reactions to their venom can occur – as evidenced by a Bronx Zoo co-worker of mine, who was hospitalized after being bitten by a species considered to be harmless.

The following information can be applied to then the care of most commonly available centipedes. Please post below for information on individual species.

Natural History
Centipedes are found on all continents except Antarctica, and live in varied habitats, including deserts, grasslands, caves, temperate woodlands, rainforests and human dwellings. The true giants are confined to tropical regions.

All are voracious predators, with larger species sometimes taking bats, tarantulas, rodents and other sizable animals; please see this article for further information. When attacked, Centipedes release irritating secretions and can inflict wounds with their fangs (which are actually modified legs connected to venom glands) and pointed rear legs.

Centipedes have 15-30 pairs of legs. The Amazonian Giant Centipede, Scolopendra gigantea, is the largest species; females may top 12 inches in length.


Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Yasunori Koide

The Terrarium
Centipedes may be kept in screen-covered aquariums, but bear in mind that they are escape artists that can exert a tremendous amount of pressure and are able squeeze through impossibly-tiny openings. Their terrarium’s cover must be secured by 6-8 clips. Gallon jars with screw-on tops are an escape proof option. I do not recommend plastic terrariums with clip-on tops. Please see this article to read about an escape that occurred during my tenure at the Bronx Zoo.

Plastic caves, a deep substrate and cork bark sheltersshould be provided.
“Ant farm” style set-ups may allow you to watch your pets’ below-ground activities. A small aquarium placed upside down within a larger one will confine their burrowing activities to the area along the glass; please see article linked below.

Substrate

The substrate should be 4-6 inches deep and comprised of coconut husk, peat moss and top soil. Plain coconut husk, as well as leaf litter and decaying wood, have also been used with success.

Light

Red/black reptile night bulbs will allow you to watch your pets’ nocturnal activities.


Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by John

Heat

Most do well at temperatures of 72-85 F; please post below for individual species’ details.

Red/black reptile night bulbs, ceramic heaters or heat pads can be used to warm the terrarium. All have a drying effect, so be sure to monitor humidity.

Humidity

Centipedes are prone to dehydration and require humidity levels of approximately 75%. Humidity can be increased by misting, moistening the substrate, and partially covering the lid with plastic. Reptile misters and humidity gauges are useful in arid surroundings.

Companions
Centipedes are “pathologically unsociable” and must be housed alone.

Feeding
Centipedes will thrive on a diet of crickets, roaches and earthworms. Wild-caught insects may be offered to help balance the diet. They will also accept canned grasshoppers and snails via tongs, but be extremely careful when feeding in this manner. Mice are not required, even for the largest species.

Powdering food once weekly with a reptile vitamin/mineral supplement may be beneficial.

Centipedes obtain water from their food, but should be provided with a shallow water bowl.

Daily Care and Maintenance
Centipedes remain below ground when molting, at which time high humidity levels are especially important.

Tiny white mites are often introduced to terrariums via substrate or food. Most are harmless scavengers that can be lured into a jar baited with fish flakes. Please see the article linked below for further information.

Long-handled tongs – never fingers – should be used to remove uneaten food and water bowls from Centipede terrariums.

Health Considerations
Centipedes are fast-moving and high strung, and will strike at any disturbance or vibration. Please ignore the ridiculous online videos showing people handling Giant Centipedes.

Centipede bites have caused fevers, dizziness, cardiac problems, breathing difficulties and fatalities. Before keeping Centipedes, discuss the matter with your physician and make certain that treatment will be available if needed. Be sure to explain that species identification may be impossible (i.e.6 species have been sold under a single trade name, and some species exhibit an array of different colors).

 

[BobBarley]

Centipedes are prone to dehydration and require humidity levels of approximately 75%. Humidity can be increased by misting, moistening the substrate, and partially covering the lid with plastic. Reptile misters and humidity gauges are useful in arid surroundings.

Not true of all species at all. I am not going to keep a Scolopendra polymorpha at 75% humidity.

Centipedes are “pathologically unsociable” and must be housed alone.

Not true of all species. The species used as a picture in the care sheet @XxSpiderQueenxX posted, Scolopendra mutilans, is communal. They are bred in large scale "farms" in Asia for use as Arowana feeders, traditional medicine, etc. In these farms, the centipedes live in very close proximity to one another.

Centipedes are fast-moving and high strung, and will strike at any disturbance or vibration. Please ignore the ridiculous online videos showing people handling Giant Centipedes.

Very untrue. Centipedes' "personalities" (more like tendencies) differ from individual to individual. Some are more high-strung than others, etc.

When attacked, Centipedes release irritating secretions

Lol wut.


Most online care sheets are full of bad info IME.

 

[vyadha]

Yeah, I saw that and just thought how poor a caresheet for an entire class of animal must be.

My white legs is extremely calm. And this piceoflava is an aggro beast so far

 

[Bill S]

Companions
Centipedes are “pathologically unsociable” and must be housed alone.

As mentioned above - S. mutilans are well known to be communal. I've also had very good luck keeping S. polymorpha in small groups for long periods of time.

 

[Staehilomyces]

Care sheets (It's pretty obvious this was copy/pasted) are often wrong on many levels, and this one is no exception.

Noice! I've always wanted to try my hand at keeping those! Here is some care... dont know if you need it tho!

...Those most commonly seen in trade are the Amazonian Giant Centipede (Scolopendra gigantean) and the Vietnamese or Red-headed Centipede (S. subspinipes), but as many as 6 species have been recorded as being sold under the same name.

First of all, it's spelled "gigantea". Secondly, even the fake S. gigantea (white legs, robusta etc.) are rare and expensive, with the true gigantea being almost nonexistent in the hobby.
Also, while S. subspinipes is found in Vietnam, you can be 99% sure that any pede sold as a "Vietnamese centipede" will actually be S. dehaani.

Centipede ownership...should only be undertaken by mature, cautious adults.

Been keeping pedes since I was in primary school. Never came close to getting bitten until I started handling, which was much more recent.

When attacked, Centipedes release irritating secretions

Apparently some centipedes can do this, but not any that are in the hobby.

The Amazonian Giant Centipede, Scolopendra gigantea, is the largest species; females may top 12 inches in length.

S. gigantea is not restricted to the Amazon, and to my knowledge, there is no real difference in size between sexes.

Centipedes may be kept in screen-covered aquariums

Not recommended. Their legs can get stuck in the mesh, and they may even be able to pry the mesh apart.

Plastic caves, a deep substrate and cork bark sheltersshould be provided.

No need to waste money on some fancy plastic cave. Just grab some bark and leaf litter for free. Besides, cavernous shelters are not favoured by pedes as they prefer to squeeze themselves under something.

The substrate should be 4-6 inches deep and comprised of coconut husk, peat moss and top soil. Plain coconut husk, as well as leaf litter and decaying wood, have also been used with success.

Deep substrate isn't completely necessary as long as the pede has somewhere to hide, and can still completely submerge itself if it wishes.

Most do well at temperatures of 72-85 F; please post below for individual species’ details.

Red/black reptile night bulbs, ceramic heaters or heat pads can be used to warm the terrarium. All have a drying effect, so be sure to monitor humidity.

With some exceptions, such as the Malaysian Jewel, the rule is as simple as "if you're comfortable, they're comfortable."

Centipedes are prone to dehydration and require humidity levels of approximately 75%. Humidity can be increased by misting, moistening the substrate, and partially covering the lid with plastic. Reptile misters and humidity gauges are useful in arid surroundings.

A humidity level that high would kill an arid species like S. heros, morsitans or polymorpha. Maintaining adequate humidity is as simple as keeping the substrate as moist as needs be - no need for fancy gauges and other equipment. I'd personally recommend a moisture gradient, so the pede can choose between different levels of moisture, as well as a water dish to provide hydration whenever necessary.

Centipedes are “pathologically unsociable” and must be housed alone.

Scolopendra mutilans and a few other species have successfully been housed communally.

Wild-caught insects may be offered to help balance the diet.

Not recommended. They could have parasites, or been in contact with pesticides and other chemicals.

Powdering food once weekly with a reptile vitamin/mineral supplement may be beneficial.

Centipedes are not reptiles...

Centipedes are fast-moving and high strung, and will strike at any disturbance or vibration. Please ignore the ridiculous online videos showing people handling Giant Centipedes.

Pedes certainly deserve a healthy amount of respect, and I'm not gonna condone handling here, nevertheless they're not the demons they're often made out to be. Pretty much any non-Asian centipede would be safer to handle than nearly all Old World tarantulas. Even the Asian pedes usually run when disturbed as opposed to striking.

 

[Liquifin]

Noice! I've always wanted to try my hand at keeping those! Here is some care... dont know if you need it tho!



The serious centipede enthusiast can look forward to a lifetime of interest and discovery. Over 3,000 species (class Chilopoda) have been described so far, and we know little about most! Biologists place Centipedes and the world’s 10,000+Millipedes in the same Super Order, Myriapoda, but any similarities end there. The name “Giant Centipede” is applied to a variety of species. Those most commonly seen in trade are the Amazonian Giant Centipede (Scolopendra gigantean) and the Vietnamese or Red-headed Centipede (S. subspinipes), but as many as 6 species have been recorded as being sold under the same name.


Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Katka Nemčoková

Centipede ownership requires consideration, and should only be undertaken by mature, cautious adults. Bites from various species have caused fevers, dizziness, cardiac problems, breathing difficulties and fatalities. Allergic reactions to their venom can occur – as evidenced by a Bronx Zoo co-worker of mine, who was hospitalized after being bitten by a species considered to be harmless.

The following information can be applied to then the care of most commonly available centipedes. Please post below for information on individual species.

Natural History
Centipedes are found on all continents except Antarctica, and live in varied habitats, including deserts, grasslands, caves, temperate woodlands, rainforests and human dwellings. The true giants are confined to tropical regions.

All are voracious predators, with larger species sometimes taking bats, tarantulas, rodents and other sizable animals; please see this article for further information. When attacked, Centipedes release irritating secretions and can inflict wounds with their fangs (which are actually modified legs connected to venom glands) and pointed rear legs.

Centipedes have 15-30 pairs of legs. The Amazonian Giant Centipede, Scolopendra gigantea, is the largest species; females may top 12 inches in length.


Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Yasunori Koide

The Terrarium
Centipedes may be kept in screen-covered aquariums, but bear in mind that they are escape artists that can exert a tremendous amount of pressure and are able squeeze through impossibly-tiny openings. Their terrarium’s cover must be secured by 6-8 clips. Gallon jars with screw-on tops are an escape proof option. I do not recommend plastic terrariums with clip-on tops. Please see this article to read about an escape that occurred during my tenure at the Bronx Zoo.

Plastic caves, a deep substrate and cork bark sheltersshould be provided.
“Ant farm” style set-ups may allow you to watch your pets’ below-ground activities. A small aquarium placed upside down within a larger one will confine their burrowing activities to the area along the glass; please see article linked below.

Substrate

The substrate should be 4-6 inches deep and comprised of coconut husk, peat moss and top soil. Plain coconut husk, as well as leaf litter and decaying wood, have also been used with success.

Light

Red/black reptile night bulbs will allow you to watch your pets’ nocturnal activities.


Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by John

Heat

Most do well at temperatures of 72-85 F; please post below for individual species’ details.

Red/black reptile night bulbs, ceramic heaters or heat pads can be used to warm the terrarium. All have a drying effect, so be sure to monitor humidity.

Humidity

Centipedes are prone to dehydration and require humidity levels of approximately 75%. Humidity can be increased by misting, moistening the substrate, and partially covering the lid with plastic. Reptile misters and humidity gauges are useful in arid surroundings.

Companions
Centipedes are “pathologically unsociable” and must be housed alone.

Feeding
Centipedes will thrive on a diet of crickets, roaches and earthworms. Wild-caught insects may be offered to help balance the diet. They will also accept canned grasshoppers and snails via tongs, but be extremely careful when feeding in this manner. Mice are not required, even for the largest species.

Powdering food once weekly with a reptile vitamin/mineral supplement may be beneficial.

Centipedes obtain water from their food, but should be provided with a shallow water bowl.

Daily Care and Maintenance
Centipedes remain below ground when molting, at which time high humidity levels are especially important.

Tiny white mites are often introduced to terrariums via substrate or food. Most are harmless scavengers that can be lured into a jar baited with fish flakes. Please see the article linked below for further information.

Long-handled tongs – never fingers – should be used to remove uneaten food and water bowls from Centipede terrariums.

Health Considerations
Centipedes are fast-moving and high strung, and will strike at any disturbance or vibration. Please ignore the ridiculous online videos showing people handling Giant Centipedes.

Centipede bites have caused fevers, dizziness, cardiac problems, breathing difficulties and fatalities. Before keeping Centipedes, discuss the matter with your physician and make certain that treatment will be available if needed. Be sure to explain that species identification may be impossible (i.e.6 species have been sold under a single trade name, and some species exhibit an array of different colors).

This entire care sheet is either very inaccurate or either based off some crazy zoo care. If you take out all the misinformation and really evaluate this care sheet. I'd say only 5%-10% of this information is useful (which is the bare basics). I can nit pick this care sheet for a long time, but I just gotta say that there is a lot of errors and misinformation on this care sheet.

 

[vyadha]

Pretty poor care sheet.....

Anyone have any current info on the centipede in the OP? Is it still considered a S subspinipes subspecies?

 

[NYAN]

Would someone be kind enough to edit that Wikipedia article?

Anyway, congrats on the pede. If all goes well I’ll have one this weekend also.

 

[vyadha]

Would someone be kind enough to edit that Wikipedia article?

Anyway, congrats on the pede. If all goes well I’ll have one this weekend also.

Thanks! This one may be a female but I’ll need to sex it after the next molt to be sure.

 

[Galapoheros]

Kind of repeating BobBarley, centipedes like polys and heros do best over here when there is dry gravely substrate with almost no organic material in it while having a hide at one end placed over a thicker layer of something like coco fiber and sand mix that's kept a little moist. In their natural habitat they go from being underground or at least under something where it's humid and going out in drier air to hunt for food or move to another hide. It makes sense they may avoid fungal infections that way while something like subspinipies isn't as prone to fungal infections(mycosis) and so can be kept in a more humid container. I've wanted to keep one of those pedes in the OP also, just never got around to looking for one to buy, I like the pattern on those.

 

[Staehilomyces]

Just for interest's sake, here's a link to the care sheet that the information was copied off. Seems like just another pet store care guide.

http://blogs.thatpetplace.com/thatr...eding-and-supplies-and-warnings/#.XMrDLi1L1N0

Once I finish my first semester at Uni, I'll see if I can start a series on centipede care for my YouTube channel, and I'll make sure I warn people to steer clear of care sheets.

 

[REEFSPIDER]

Cool pede, and lol at the amount of "dead horse" kicking on the caresheet comment, obviously someone who maybe isn't a centipede expert was just trying to be nice, regardless, any novice pede keeper can take one look at the care sheet and laugh a little i think. Cheers

 

[LeFanDesBugs]

Hey guys, I’m willing to make a Wikipedia centipede keeping page. I’ll get to it now!

 

[Scoly]

Pretty poor care sheet.....

Anyone have any current info on the centipede in the OP? Is it still considered a S subspinipes subspecies?

It is currently deemed to be a subspecies of S.subspinipes, but that's all subject to change.

In terms of care it will be much like other S.subspinipes: keep it medium warm during the day (25-27C) and drop to 20-22C at night, with medium humidity (not rain forest wet, not dry either) and sufficient ventilation. S.subspinipes actually tolerate a range of conditions, so you should be OK. The bite will likely be pretty bad so be careful for that.

There's a great care sheet written by Chris Barker uploaded to the files section of his facebook group:
https://www.facebook.com/notes/cent...inipes-information-and-care/1065538883589339/

In fact it is the only Facebook group I know of which has a collection of file, which is actually a real treasure trove of information on centipedes:]
https://www.facebook.com/groups/centipedes.and.millipedes.uk/files/

 

[Captain Centipede]

Noice! I've always wanted to try my hand at keeping those! Here is some care... dont know if you need it tho!



The serious centipede enthusiast can look forward to a lifetime of interest and discovery. Over 3,000 species (class Chilopoda) have been described so far, and we know little about most! Biologists place Centipedes and the world’s 10,000+Millipedes in the same Super Order, Myriapoda, but any similarities end there. The name “Giant Centipede” is applied to a variety of species. Those most commonly seen in trade are the Amazonian Giant Centipede (Scolopendra gigantean) and the Vietnamese or Red-headed Centipede (S. subspinipes), but as many as 6 species have been recorded as being sold under the same name.


Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Katka Nemčoková

Centipede ownership requires consideration, and should only be undertaken by mature, cautious adults. Bites from various species have caused fevers, dizziness, cardiac problems, breathing difficulties and fatalities. Allergic reactions to their venom can occur – as evidenced by a Bronx Zoo co-worker of mine, who was hospitalized after being bitten by a species considered to be harmless.

The following information can be applied to then the care of most commonly available centipedes. Please post below for information on individual species.

Natural History
Centipedes are found on all continents except Antarctica, and live in varied habitats, including deserts, grasslands, caves, temperate woodlands, rainforests and human dwellings. The true giants are confined to tropical regions.

All are voracious predators, with larger species sometimes taking bats, tarantulas, rodents and other sizable animals; please see this article for further information. When attacked, Centipedes release irritating secretions and can inflict wounds with their fangs (which are actually modified legs connected to venom glands) and pointed rear legs.

Centipedes have 15-30 pairs of legs. The Amazonian Giant Centipede, Scolopendra gigantea, is the largest species; females may top 12 inches in length.


Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by Yasunori Koide

The Terrarium
Centipedes may be kept in screen-covered aquariums, but bear in mind that they are escape artists that can exert a tremendous amount of pressure and are able squeeze through impossibly-tiny openings. Their terrarium’s cover must be secured by 6-8 clips. Gallon jars with screw-on tops are an escape proof option. I do not recommend plastic terrariums with clip-on tops. Please see this article to read about an escape that occurred during my tenure at the Bronx Zoo.

Plastic caves, a deep substrate and cork bark sheltersshould be provided.
“Ant farm” style set-ups may allow you to watch your pets’ below-ground activities. A small aquarium placed upside down within a larger one will confine their burrowing activities to the area along the glass; please see article linked below.

Substrate

The substrate should be 4-6 inches deep and comprised of coconut husk, peat moss and top soil. Plain coconut husk, as well as leaf litter and decaying wood, have also been used with success.

Light

Red/black reptile night bulbs will allow you to watch your pets’ nocturnal activities.


Uploaded to Wikipedia Commons by John

Heat

Most do well at temperatures of 72-85 F; please post below for individual species’ details.

Red/black reptile night bulbs, ceramic heaters or heat pads can be used to warm the terrarium. All have a drying effect, so be sure to monitor humidity.

Humidity

Centipedes are prone to dehydration and require humidity levels of approximately 75%. Humidity can be increased by misting, moistening the substrate, and partially covering the lid with plastic. Reptile misters and humidity gauges are useful in arid surroundings.

Companions
Centipedes are “pathologically unsociable” and must be housed alone.

Feeding
Centipedes will thrive on a diet of crickets, roaches and earthworms. Wild-caught insects may be offered to help balance the diet. They will also accept canned grasshoppers and snails via tongs, but be extremely careful when feeding in this manner. Mice are not required, even for the largest species.

Powdering food once weekly with a reptile vitamin/mineral supplement may be beneficial.

Centipedes obtain water from their food, but should be provided with a shallow water bowl.

Daily Care and Maintenance
Centipedes remain below ground when molting, at which time high humidity levels are especially important.

Tiny white mites are often introduced to terrariums via substrate or food. Most are harmless scavengers that can be lured into a jar baited with fish flakes. Please see the article linked below for further information.

Long-handled tongs – never fingers – should be used to remove uneaten food and water bowls from Centipede terrariums.

Health Considerations
Centipedes are fast-moving and high strung, and will strike at any disturbance or vibration. Please ignore the ridiculous online videos showing people handling Giant Centipedes.

Centipede bites have caused fevers, dizziness, cardiac problems, breathing difficulties and fatalities. Before keeping Centipedes, discuss the matter with your physician and make certain that treatment will be available if needed. Be sure to explain that species identification may be impossible (i.e.6 species have been sold under a single trade name, and some species exhibit an array of different colors).

This post is 95% bullshit.

 

[Royal Rover]

Care sheets (It's pretty obvious this was copy/pasted) are often wrong on many levels, and this one is no exception.


First of all, it's spelled "gigantea". Secondly, even the fake S. gigantea (white legs, robusta etc.) are rare and expensive, with the true gigantea being almost nonexistent in the hobby.
Also, while S. subspinipes is found in Vietnam, you can be 99% sure that any pede sold as a "Vietnamese centipede" will actually be S. dehaani.


Been keeping pedes since I was in primary school. Never came close to getting bitten until I started handling, which was much more recent.


Apparently some centipedes can do this, but not any that are in the hobby.


S. gigantea is not restricted to the Amazon, and to my knowledge, there is no real difference in size between sexes.


Not recommended. Their legs can get stuck in the mesh, and they may even be able to pry the mesh apart.


No need to waste money on some fancy plastic cave. Just grab some bark and leaf litter for free. Besides, cavernous shelters are not favoured by pedes as they prefer to squeeze themselves under something.


Deep substrate isn't completely necessary as long as the pede has somewhere to hide, and can still completely submerge itself if it wishes.


With some exceptions, such as the Malaysian Jewel, the rule is as simple as "if you're comfortable, they're comfortable."


A humidity level that high would kill an arid species like S. heros, morsitans or polymorpha. Maintaining adequate humidity is as simple as keeping the substrate as moist as needs be - no need for fancy gauges and other equipment. I'd personally recommend a moisture gradient, so the pede can choose between different levels of moisture, as well as a water dish to provide hydration whenever necessary.


Scolopendra mutilans and a few other species have successfully been housed communally.


Not recommended. They could have parasites, or been in contact with pesticides and other chemicals.


Centipedes are not reptiles...


Pedes certainly deserve a healthy amount of respect, and I'm not gonna condone handling here, nevertheless they're not the demons they're often made out to be. Pretty much any non-Asian centipede would be safer to handle than nearly all Old World tarantulas. Even the Asian pedes usually run when disturbed as opposed to striking.

In my experience, no Old World tarantula would be harder to transfer than S. heros (the giant desert) which is a New World centipede species, for its agility & reactivity so I may not agree with your comparison here.

I haven’t handled any of those expensive South American giant centipedes, but a senior hobbyist fellow told me they weren’t as docile as some had described. The Peruvian white leg giant tends to be calm, but S. galapagoensis & the true giant (S. gigantea) are definitely not. Given their massive sizes & strength of outburst with speed & large forcipules with high venom yield per strike, they wouldn’t be safer to handle than any aggressive Old World tarantula. On the contrary, they would be more dangerous, especially since tools wouldn’t be useful upon transfer.

Asia pretty much includes most Old World centipede species in the hobby realm, except the popular feather tail & blue ring from Africa (these non-Scolependra species are sensitive as well). So, I think even in an apple-to-apple (i.e. New to New or Old to Old) comparison, centipedes would be more challenging to handle. The most defensive tarantulas I’ve ever tackled are those tree tigers or earth tigers from Asia. African tarantulas are shyer with the orange baboon being more sensitive than the king baboon, whose temperament is exaggerated by many people. Yet, none of these comes close to aggression of S. dehaani (the Vietnamese giant centipede) & S. piceoflava (the Sulawesi centipede). The difference is furious tarantulas stand for their ground or flee quickly if being forced out of their burrows while giant centipedes shoot around with high agility, giving no good spot to land your tools on.

Not “demonizing” centipedes, but there’s a good reason why people are generally more afraid of them than tarantulas or scorpions, even among arthropod enthusiasts. The handleability is just lower. Their escape artistry is also higher, not least after losing them. They simply vanish, taking you a great amount of work to find them out. A tiger or baboon is more popular than a Vietnamese giant.

Of course, all generalizations are false. We’re just talking about tendencies here. Some Old World centipedes like S. subspinipes (known most commonly as the Asian red-head) prefer flight over fight while others like the dehaani & piceoflava often charge or strike the forceps. Old World tarantulas I’ve handled, including the cobalt blue, Singaporean blue, Chinese bird eater & baboons, are more predictable than giant centipedes. The same also applies to New World centipedes & tarantulas.

 

[Taffy]

In my experience, no Old World tarantula would be harder to transfer than S. heros (the giant desert) which is a New World centipede species, for its agility & reactivity so I may not agree with your comparison here.

I haven’t handled any of those expensive South American giant centipedes, but a senior hobbyist fellow told me they weren’t as docile as some had described. The Peruvian white leg giant tends to be calm, but S. galapagoensis & the true giant (S. gigantea) are definitely not. Given their massive sizes & strength of outburst with speed & large forcipules with high venom yield per strike, they wouldn’t be safer to handle than any aggressive Old World tarantula. On the contrary, they would be more dangerous, especially since tools wouldn’t be useful upon transfer.

Asia pretty much includes most Old World centipede species in the hobby realm, except the popular feather tail & blue ring from Africa (these non-Scolependra species are sensitive as well). So, I think even in an apple-to-apple (i.e. New to New or Old to Old) comparison, centipedes would be more challenging to handle. The most defensive tarantulas I’ve ever tackled are those tree tigers or earth tigers from Asia. African tarantulas are shyer with the orange baboon being more sensitive than the king baboon, whose temperament is exaggerated by many people. Yet, none of these comes close to aggression of S. dehaani (the Vietnamese giant centipede) & S. piceoflava (the Sulawesi centipede). The difference is furious tarantulas stand for their ground or flee quickly if being forced out of their burrows while giant centipedes shoot around with high agility, giving no good spot to land your tools on.

Not “demonizing” centipedes, but there’s a good reason why people are generally more afraid of them than tarantulas or scorpions, even among arthropod enthusiasts. The handleability is just lower. Their escape artistry is also higher, not least after losing them. They simply vanish, taking you a great amount of work to find them out. A tiger or baboon is more popular than a Vietnamese giant.

Of course, all generalizations are false. We’re just talking about tendencies here. Some Old World centipedes like S. subspinipes (known most commonly as the Asian red-head) prefer flight over fight while others like the dehaani & piceoflava often charge or strike the forceps. Old World tarantulas I’ve handled, including the cobalt blue, Singaporean blue, Chinese bird eater & baboons, are more predictable than giant centipedes. The same also applies to New World centipedes & tarantulas.

yea i’ve owned a few S. galapagoensis and i currently only own one. they’re definitely not calm, they have bursts of speed and will try to bite. S. sp “white legs” was very. calm though when i owned one.

 

[Desert scorps]

yea i’ve owned a few S. galapagoensis and i currently only own one. they’re definitely not calm, they have bursts of speed and will try to bite. S. sp “white legs” was very. calm though when i owned one.

That’s funny, I see this about white legs all the time, but mine is absolutely insane. I wonder if it has any relation to its age? It’s only about 6.5-7 inches right now, and most likely less than a year in age, but it’s been this way since it was a tiny pling.

 

[Taffy]

That’s funny, I see this about white legs all the time, but mine is absolutely insane. I wonder if it has any relation to its age? It’s only about 6.5-7 inches right now, and most likely less than a year in age, but it’s been this way since it was a tiny pling.

my whiteleg was around the 9 inch mark so maybe