S. heros enclosure

[VolkswagenBug]

I've decided to finally dip my feet into the centipede game with a not-fully-grown S. heros (which is not yet in my possession and I have some time to prepare). In view of centipedes' propensity for escaping and their love of biting, I'd really like to make sure I provide it with the best and most secure care. Here's the very preliminary enclosure that I came up with using mostly supplies on hand:


12-inch ruler for scale. Unfortunately, I do not know the precise size of the centipede that I'll be getting, but I doubt it will exceed 8" in length.

The substrate, which you can see is about 3.5" tall, is a ~5:2 mix of reptile sand substitute (ground walnut shells) and coconut fiber (it is more wet than I believe it should be because I just mixed it; I'll be letting it dry out before receiving the pede). There's a hollow cork bark log, a stone water dish, and a half log hide that I have had for a very long time which I believe to be oak, possibly? The container is a 19 XL liter Really Useful Box that measures 15.5" x 10" x 13" with the lid. It locks (and quite gracefully; it doesn't jolt the contents or make a loud noise when locked like some other locking containers), but is not airtight.

My concerns/questions about this are mainly as follows, in order of greatest to least importance:

• I have heard that large centipedes can chew through plastic, but did not find specifics on which ones. The plastic in the RUB is fairly thick and tough, more so than a typical plastic shoebox, but it does get thin in parts, especially towards the top. Are smaller Scolopendra like juvenile heros known to chew through these enclosures?
• The height of the RUB, especially with the generous amount of substrate, is shorter than I would like it to be. By the height = 1.5x length rule, the enclosure (including the height occupied by the substrate and lid) could technically accommodate a centipede up to 8.7" long, which seems like it should be sufficient for even a subadult heros, but it's a little bit closer than seems ideal if it turns out to be a longer specimen. I do plan on spreading petroleum jelly on the higher areas of the wall, which has worked fantastically for me as a deterrent for very climb-y American cockroaches, but I'm not sure how well it works to deter centipedes. How concerned should I be about climbing in this setup?
• Should I provide leaf litter (or rocks) or are the cork bark, log hides, and deep substrate sufficient for enrichment/hiding? I think that I saw one person suggest leaf litter for centipedes when I was researching the other day, but a lot of enclosure pics for heros online do not have any.

Any other points are also welcome in case I haven't thought of any. My biggest concern is definitely over the height and material of the enclosure, so I would love to hear any recommendations for specific brands of tall, glass/acrylic containers that you guys consider more suitable (if you agree that my concerns are warranted).

 

[Isaax Critterz]

I'd say its a good enclosure myself. But you can add Moss because centipedes seem to be attracted to moisture.

 

[VolkswagenBug]

I'd say its a good enclosure myself. But you can add Moss because centipedes seem to be attracted to moisture.

Would this not increase the chances of mycosis for a desert pede?

 

[Isaax Critterz]

Would this not increase the chances of mycosis for a desert pede?

not to much moss..

 

[AtariKaiju]

Looks pretty decent! The cork bark hides look really good but I definitely would recommend adding leaf litter alongside this! It’s not entirely necessary but can be really useful for both making your buddy feel more secure and helping to create good humidity for molting from what I know.

 

[Royal Rover]

Although they don't literally "chew through" soft plastics, centipedes are indeed curious voyagers, eager to endeavor any gap they can seep. Just make sure the ventilation is sufficient since they're vulnerable to mycosis while requiring some moisture. I am more prudent to humidity when it comes to this particular species. I don't put any moss but a always-full water dish.
Not only does adding grapevines boost the aesthetics, but also fun for observation. Most Scolependra individuals I've kept occasionally climb up those branches, hanging half the body up & picking chemical signals in the air with the antenna. I believe they indeed catch insects in flight as read on some field reports online.
In fact, some of my Pacific species often reach up the top mesh hanging there. I read that many South American giants have arboreal variants. The most classic predatory behavior of any centipede is S. gigantea hunting flying bats on a cave ceiling. Not sure if mine are at least considered semi-arboreal. It's fun to watch.

 

[scolopender21]

ARE YOU ASKING FOR MYCOSIS?!?!


Should be practically bone dry, have you seen where they come from? Don't let it climb on anything and provide multiple hides preferably.
I don't want to be rude but have you done any research on heros?

 

[Raptorr]

You're good unless it comes in bigger than 7," which is enough to reach the top if it uses the cork bark, I believe. They rarely come in bigger than that though. If it does, you can get a bin that has an airtight lid, or you could use less substrate. they don't necessarily require that much substrate if you have hides and other things for them to go under.

For your substrate, I've heard coco fiber can cause impaction, which unfortunately can lead to death, so I would personally avoid using it. I'd recommend mostly sand and gravel, with a small amount of peat moss in one corner of the enclosure. Only spray that one corner with peat, nowhere else, and you don't have to do it often; just have it very slightly damp, but make sure the water dish is always full. You can add rocks and some leaf litter too.

You need lots of ventilation to prevent mycosis, mold, etc., especially for heroes. Make sure the holes are near the ground; if you have them at the top, it's not getting nearly as much ventilation as it would if you had it at ground level.

 

[Royal Rover]

ARE YOU ASKING FOR MYCOSIS?!?!


Should be practically bone dry, have you seen where they come from? Don't let it climb on anything and provide multiple hides preferably.
I don't want to be rude but have you done any research on heros?

I believe there are S. heros coming from woodland not just desert. I agree on prudence to mycosis particularly when it comes to this species, but generally speaking centipedes are susceptible to desiccation due to physiology of their breathing system so certain moisture is required. Moist but not wet. Besides, I don't think climbing is a problem as far as the terrarium has its top mesh well sealed from escape, not too tall to reduce risk of injuries & with log or branches for them to land on from the mesh. It seems to be a natural behavior, depending upon the species. Of course, post-molting is another story.

You're good unless it comes in bigger than 7," which is enough to reach the top if it uses the cork bark, I believe. They rarely come in bigger than that though. If it does, you can get a bin that has an airtight lid, or you could use less substrate. they don't necessarily require that much substrate if you have hides and other things for them to go under.

For your substrate, I've heard coco fiber can cause impaction, which unfortunately can lead to death, so I would personally avoid using it. I'd recommend mostly sand and gravel, with a small amount of peat moss in one corner of the enclosure. Only spray that one corner with peat, nowhere else, and you don't have to do it often; just have it very slightly damp, but make sure the water dish is always full. You can add rocks and some leaf litter too.

You need lots of ventilation to prevent mycosis, mold, etc., especially for heroes. Make sure the holes are near the ground; if you have them at the top, it's not getting nearly as much ventilation as it would if you had it at ground level.

I've heard of the importance of cross-ventilation but top ventilation is required for evaporation especially in a bioactive terrarium. I found it fine if the top ventilation was sufficient with a robust top mesh when all the parameters were kept well.

 

[Raptorr]

I believe there are S. heros coming from woodland not just desert. I agree on prudence to mycosis particularly when it comes to this species, but generally speaking centipedes are susceptible to desiccation due to physiology of their breathing system so certain moisture is required. Moist but not wet. Besides, I don't think climbing is a problem as far as the terrarium has its top mesh well sealed from escape, not too tall to reduce risk of injuries & with log or branches for them to land on from the mesh. It seems to be a natural behavior, depending upon the species. Of course, post-molting is another story.

I've heard of the importance of cross-ventilation but top ventilation is required for evaporation especially in a bioactive terrarium. I found it fine if the top ventilation was sufficient with a robust top mesh when all the parameters were kept well.

Yes, some heros come from woodlands and can probably tolerate a little bit more moisture than the desert variant, but both can be kept nearly completely dry, with one corner of the enclosure slightly damp and a full water dish at all times. Their enclosure seems too moist from what I can tell in the picture, with no ventilation at the bottom. So with that much moisture and that little ventilation, you could easily have a mycosis problem.

I forgot to mention top ventilation. Yes, you can have top along with cross ventilation. But I'd say having enough cross vent and making sure it's low enough is more important. Top ventilation alone has a higher chance of mycosis, especially if you're keeping it more moist.

 

[VolkswagenBug]

ARE YOU ASKING FOR MYCOSIS?!?!


Should be practically bone dry, have you seen where they come from? Don't let it climb on anything and provide multiple hides preferably.
I don't want to be rude but have you done any research on heros?

Thanks for the helpful feedback. As you can see, there are indeed multiple hides in the photograph and I originally noted that I would be drying the substrate before obtaining the centipede (though I've now decided to change it entirely to a much sandier mix without coconut fiber due to what I've found out about the risk of impaction & to reduce the substrate's moisture retention).

For your substrate, I've heard coco fiber can cause impaction, which unfortunately can lead to death, so I would personally avoid using it. I'd recommend mostly sand and gravel, with a small amount of peat moss in one corner of the enclosure. Only spray that one corner with peat, nowhere else, and you don't have to do it often; just have it very slightly damp, but make sure the water dish is always full. You can add rocks and some leaf litter too.

I actually was just reading about coconut fiber impaction yesterday and I was in fact already planning on changing it out for that exact mix, so it's good to know that that's the right direction. Also, forgot to mention that I already intended to drill holes for cross-ventilation and just haven't done so yet - sorry that wasn't clear. I suppose I can also add top ventilation to that plan if it would be useful.

 

[VolkswagenBug]

To review, changes I will be making based on notes so far:

• Drill cross ventilation (already planned, but forgot to mention) and top ventilation holes
• Switch substrate for a slightly more shallow, perhaps 4:1 sand:gravel mixture, leaving a slightly moister corner with a sand : peat moss mix. Thoroughly clean enclosure of all coconut fiber residue.
• Add leaf litter
• Add rocks

Anything else?

 

[Raptorr]

To review, changes I will be making based on notes so far:

• Drill cross ventilation (already planned, but forgot to mention) and top ventilation holes
• Switch substrate for a slightly more shallow, perhaps 4:1 sand:gravel mixture, leaving a slightly moister corner with a sand : peat moss mix. Thoroughly clean enclosure of all coconut fiber residue.
• Add leaf litter
• Add rocks

Anything else?

That sounds good. Are you getting a castaniceps or arizonensis?

 

[VolkswagenBug]

That sounds good. Are you getting a castaniceps or arizonensis?

It's just sold as S. heros ssp. "Blotched", which is either a taxonomically distinct subspecies or simply unclassified (to my knowledge), but it's from western Texas, so its wild ecology presumably more closely resembles S. h. castaneiceps.

 

[VolkswagenBug]

Apart from the residue around the ventilation holes (consequence of the way I formed them - I'll be smoothing it out, I just don't have the right sandpaper at the moment), does this look better?



The bulk of the substrate is now exclusively composed of real sand (fine), walnut shell-based sand substitute (coarser), and a bit of very coarse gravel. The corner covered by the water dish has peat moss mixed in towards the surface. I added leaf litter (oak, I think - it's old and I'm not a plant person) and a large rock, which is on the bottom right in the third image, while retaining the two hides & water dish.

Cross-ventilation covers all 4 walls with 3 rows of holes on the long walls, 2 on the short walls - all of those are spaced ~1cm and 0.5cm diameter. There are also more closely spaced auxiliary cross-vent holes on the top right of each side. Top ventilation holes are spaced the same way in 4 rows.

 

[Raptorr]

Apart from the residue around the ventilation holes (consequence of the way I formed them - I'll be smoothing it out, I just don't have the right sandpaper at the moment), does this look better?
View attachment 442786
View attachment 442787
View attachment 442788
The bulk of the substrate is now exclusively composed of real sand (fine), walnut shell-based sand substitute (coarser), and a bit of very coarse gravel. The corner covered by the water dish has peat moss mixed in towards the surface. I added leaf litter (oak, I think - it's old and I'm not a plant person) and a large rock, which is on the bottom right in the third image, while retaining the two hides & water dish.

Cross-ventilation covers all 4 walls with 3 rows of holes on the long walls, 2 on the short walls - all of those are spaced ~1cm and 0.5cm diameter. There are also more closely spaced auxiliary cross-vent holes on the top right of each side. Top ventilation holes are spaced the same way in 4 rows.

Nice, yeah that looks good to me.

 

[Royal Rover]

Apart from the residue around the ventilation holes (consequence of the way I formed them - I'll be smoothing it out, I just don't have the right sandpaper at the moment), does this look better?
View attachment 442786
View attachment 442787
View attachment 442788
The bulk of the substrate is now exclusively composed of real sand (fine), walnut shell-based sand substitute (coarser), and a bit of very coarse gravel. The corner covered by the water dish has peat moss mixed in towards the surface. I added leaf litter (oak, I think - it's old and I'm not a plant person) and a large rock, which is on the bottom right in the third image, while retaining the two hides & water dish.

Cross-ventilation covers all 4 walls with 3 rows of holes on the long walls, 2 on the short walls - all of those are spaced ~1cm and 0.5cm diameter. There are also more closely spaced auxiliary cross-vent holes on the top right of each side. Top ventilation holes are spaced the same way in 4 rows.

Hands must have developed fatigue after drilling those holes!! I attempted a customized plastic box like yours once, but have never been going back from a glass terrarium since then! Anyway, enjoy your new pet! Be careful also. These are mighty predators with shear strength.

 

[The Snailkeeper]

good enclosure

 

[VolkswagenBug]

Hands must have developed fatigue after drilling those holes!! I attempted a customized plastic box like yours once, but have never been going back from a glass terrarium since then! Anyway, enjoy your new pet! Be careful also. These are mighty predators with shear strength.

Believe it or not, the holes almost took no physical effort and like 30 minutes at most! A $6 soldering iron from Walmart plus an open garage and a respirator did the trick - when heated, you can stick a round soldering iron straight through this type of plastic with basically no effort and no risk of cracking, unlike drilling. The main downside is those ugly bumps around the holes, which don't impact functionality but are an eyesore and hard to smooth down (although there may be a solution that I just haven't found yet). In case you ever want to try a customized plastic enclosure again, that's an incredibly useful hack.