Rose Hair drinking a lot of water

[steelerandrew]

Yeah, I put the night light on there to add more heat and to help keep the substrate dry. he's not drinking as much today. My guess is the store had him dehydrated, they were using cricket water (these little cubes of water), I bet he wasn't getting enough. I just bought him on Tuesday so I bet he was getting caught up. Is it normal for them to rear up on their hind legs and move their front legs in an up and down motion when you put your hand in the tank? I think this guy is a little ornery.

 

[Misty Day]

Is it normal for them to rear up on their hind legs and move their front legs in an up and down motion when you put your hand in the tank? I think this guy is a little ornery.

Yes. He's just defending himself, he doesn't know what you are, all he feels is a large potential predator invading his home.

 

[viper69]

I put a night time UV basking light

What's the ambient temp of your room at night and day?

Why would you provide a UV light? IF I was FORCED to provide a light, you are better off providing a red light and not something shooting UV radiation. Granted UV strength is affected by distance to target, in short, w/out knowing said info, this is a bad idea.

Ts don't bask at night hoping to get get UV rays.

 

[viper69]

The one thing that is odd is that he is drinking water excessively (small water dish every 5 minutes or so as long as its full)

What info suggests this is excessive to you?

 

[viper69]

Is it normal for them to rear up on their hind legs and move their front legs in an up and down motion when you put your hand in the tank?

Yes, Ts DO NOT like being disturbed, case closed.

I STRONGLY suggest you read up on tarantulas more so than you may have read already. What you described is a CLASSIC defensive posture that all Ts are capable of doing. The fact that you don't know this strongly suggests that you have done very, very little research, if any, for an animal that is reliant upon you for its life.

 

[viper69]

The bedroom where the tarantula is being kept can get down to 63 degrees Fahrenheit during the day in the winter. Is that ok?

During the day is 63, that's too low on a regular basis, meaning a few times a week. If it's 63 during the day, the night temps are lower and that is not good.

@cold blood maybe you can give this owner a good idea of how to take care of Ts in a cold climate before his T dies.

 

[cold blood]

He drained three small dishes(smallest water dish I could buy at the pet store -5 ml maybe?) in 5 minutes and acted like he wanted more yesterday. I thought maybe his webbing might be absorbing the water so i remove it and clean it before filling. No webbing or substrate absorbing the water and he is drinking it too quickly for evaporation.

You are mistaken. Ts don't, and really can't even drink that much. Even if they did, it would take a LOT longer than 5 min for them to drink a dish of water, that is a physical impossibility. It may be drinking, but not nearly as much as you suspect. I guarantee there is a little thread of webbing you can't see that's causing the wicking of the water away from the dish. Lift the dish, I bet its wet under there. When you see a dish emptying quickly, pull the dish and thoroughly clean the rim.

I agree its too fast for evap.

Thanks everyone for your input. I'll see if I can find a glass top if you guys think that would be better. I use a store bought ceramic water dish, its not leaking. The bedroom where the tarantula is being kept can get down to 63 degrees Fahrenheit during the day in the winter. Is that ok? The water isn't evaporating, I watch the spider drink it.

I wouldn't worry about that temp IF the t was an adult. A 2" one though, I would really try to keep it closer to 70 (if not a little higher), like at least 68.

These T's come from one of the hottest deserts out there. Trust me, they won't mind a bone dry enclosure (they prefer it ) Should be completely fine. I can bet that light is what's making the water disappear. TBH these T's can be good at temps between 60-65. Unless your house gets to 50 or below, your T would probably do well. Just a little less active (and less growth rate?) when colder. I would just adjust the cage like everyone else says: they are great suggestions that will help ensure your T a little safer enclosure

They do like dry and come from desert area, but its far from a hot desert, nothing like the classic desert most picture. In the wild these ts deal with weather in the 40's at night and much of the year, highs barely top 70.

Yeah, I put the night light on there to add more heat and to help keep the substrate dry. he's not drinking as much today. My guess is the store had him dehydrated, they were using cricket water (these little cubes of water), I bet he wasn't getting enough. I just bought him on Tuesday so I bet he was getting caught up. Is it normal for them to rear up on their hind legs and move their front legs in an up and down motion when you put your hand in the tank? I think this guy is a little ornery.

Being ornery is pretty typical of the species, they're notoriously moody.

The single biggest issue here is that you are keeping a 2" specimen in an enclosure that would even be bigger than an adult needs. This will only make everything more difficult for you and the spider. At 2" I would still have that spider in a 16oz deli cup.

With a smaller, proper enclosure, you have options for good heating that you just won't have with an oversized enclosure. I would put it in a much smaller enclosure and utilize a heat bath with a simple aquarium heater...easy to set up, reliable and it will not have a negative effect on the t that a light or lamp will.

This is what a heat bath would look like.

1108140016 (1)

• cold blood
• Jan 28, 2016
• 5

 

[steelerandrew]

So what exactly is the negative effect of a black night light that is at least 6-8 inches from the spider? Trying to understand how a little heat on one side of the enclosure is bad. Also, in why is the 10 gallon tank too much? I know in the literature they say to use a smaller enclosure but he seems to like exploring this tank. I know its not in the wild but I have a hard time believing that this spider would limit itself to such a small area. I set my house temp on 65 during the day but the bedroom is upstairs and it can get a little cooler that is why I wanted to use the black light on one side.

 

[cold blood]

Lights dry the air out, which long term, can have detrimental effects. At least its not a heat lamp, but still, far from ideal. Although having it that close to the spider is even scarier.

When I first started out I thought just like you are in terms of larger enclosures...hey, in the wild they have unlimited space to explore.

With experience I now understand 1. exploration isn't really high on their priority list. In fact, a comfortable, adjusted t, rarely explores, they are the ultimate home bodies. 2. Ts in larger enclosures feel the need to hide away A TON more. Because they emerge a lot less, they feed a lot less, resulting in significantly slower growth rates and a t you never see. We can't equate wild conditions to those in our homes, its just not the same. We don't want the abysmal survival rates wild ts see.

I was just explaining this to someone a few minutes ago. Last year I experimented with G. pulchripes slings and N. chromatus slings (22 chromatus, 162 pulchripes). I housed some into smaller than normal housing, most in what I would normally use, and some into larger enclosures than I would have ever used for a 1/3" sling....and this larger home was just a 16oz deli cup.

The results were remarkable. The ones in the smallest enclosures were basically the same as the ones in the housing I normally use. They were almost always visible, and ate every meal readily. As a result, they all grew remarkably fast.

The ones housed in the enclosures I considered to be very large for their size ALL burrowed away and hid almost all the time. They rarely emerged even to feed, preferring to be under something or in a burrow.

When I finally ended the experiment and moved the ones in the larger enclosures into condiment cups, instantly their demeanor changed. Instant appetite, growth rates took off and they were always visible so they could be monitored. But also, these ones were still tiny, while their siblings had all exceeded 1", some were close to 1.25" and starting to show adult colors. I suspect they were a good 4, possibly 5 molts behind.

Right now I have half of a sac of P. cambridgei left. Half are in 32oz deli cups, the other half in 16oz deli cups. With their speed and feeding response you wouldn't think the extra room would have much of an effect....yet its obvious to see that the ones in the 16oz delis are simply out more and much much more aggressive with food when its dropped in.

For slings, smaller is most certainly better, for you to monitor them and for them to hunt and grow.

Another thing to consider, especially with a giant 10 gal, is that the feeders have a lot more places to hide...not just from the t, but from you as well. Miss a cricket hiding under something for weeks and it WILL eat your t should it molt. Being able to hunt efficiently is for your, and the ts benefit.

 

[Estein]

Last year I experimented with G. pulchripes slings and N. chromatus slings (22 chromatus, 162 pulchripes). I housed some into smaller than normal housing, most in what I would normally use, and some into larger enclosures than I would have ever used for a 1/3" sling....and this larger home was just a 16oz deli cup.

The results were remarkable. The ones in the smallest enclosures were basically the same as the ones in the housing I normally use. They were almost always visible, and ate every meal readily. As a result, they all grew remarkably fast.

The ones housed in the enclosures I considered to be very large for their size ALL burrowed away and hid almost all the time. They rarely emerged even to feed, preferring to be under something or in a burrow.

When I finally ended the experiment and moved the ones in the larger enclosures into condiment cups, instantly their demeanor changed. Instant appetite, growth rates took off and they were always visible so they could be monitored. But also, these ones were still tiny, while their siblings had all exceeded 1", some were close to 1.25" and starting to show adult colors. I suspect they were a good 4, possibly 5 molts behind.

This was really interesting and helpful to read--thanks for posting. Out of curiosity, did you have any thoughts as to why the large enclosure caused them to hide more? I remember someone suggesting recently that a smaller enclosure mimics a burrow in the wild so the T will feel more secure. I'd love to hear any other ideas you had while doing your experiment.

 

[steelerandrew]

Lights dry the air out, which long term, can have detrimental effects. At least its not a heat lamp, but still, far from ideal. Although having it that close to the spider is even scarier.

When I first started out I thought just like you are in terms of larger enclosures...hey, in the wild they have unlimited space to explore.

With experience I now understand 1. exploration isn't really high on their priority list. In fact, a comfortable, adjusted t, rarely explores, they are the ultimate home bodies. 2. Ts in larger enclosures feel the need to hide away A TON more. Because they emerge a lot less, they feed a lot less, resulting in significantly slower growth rates and a t you never see. We can't equate wild conditions to those in our homes, its just not the same. We don't want the abysmal survival rates wild ts see.

I was just explaining this to someone a few minutes ago. Last year I experimented with G. pulchripes slings and N. chromatus slings (22 chromatus, 162 pulchripes). I housed some into smaller than normal housing, most in what I would normally use, and some into larger enclosures than I would have ever used for a 1/3" sling....and this larger home was just a 16oz deli cup.

The results were remarkable. The ones in the smallest enclosures were basically the same as the ones in the housing I normally use. They were almost always visible, and ate every meal readily. As a result, they all grew remarkably fast.

The ones housed in the enclosures I considered to be very large for their size ALL burrowed away and hid almost all the time. They rarely emerged even to feed, preferring to be under something or in a burrow.

When I finally ended the experiment and moved the ones in the larger enclosures into condiment cups, instantly their demeanor changed. Instant appetite, growth rates took off and they were always visible so they could be monitored. But also, these ones were still tiny, while their siblings had all exceeded 1", some were close to 1.25" and starting to show adult colors. I suspect they were a good 4, possibly 5 molts behind.

Right now I have half of a sac of P. cambridgei left. Half are in 32oz deli cups, the other half in 16oz deli cups. With their speed and feeding response you wouldn't think the extra room would have much of an effect....yet its obvious to see that the ones in the 16oz delis are simply out more and much much more aggressive with food when its dropped in.

For slings, smaller is most certainly better, for you to monitor them and for them to hunt and grow.

Another thing to consider, especially with a giant 10 gal, is that the feeders have a lot more places to hide...not just from the t, but from you as well. Miss a cricket hiding under something for weeks and it WILL eat your t should it molt. Being able to hunt efficiently is for your, and the ts benefit.

Awesome response. Thanks for the clarification. I think I'll put a cage divider in. I think I'm going to expire mentioned with the light some

 

[steelerandrew]

So. I read somewhere that I should wait for a week after getting my ts before I feed it. Should I? Also, what are your thoughts on gut loaded large meal worms rather than crickets?

 

[Trenor]

You can try to feed them as soon as you get them and they are put in the new enclosures. They might not always eat but it doesn't hurt to offer it. Often the availability of food will help them decide to settle here and they will set up a home sooner.

I feed my feeders good food for them and then feed them to the Ts.

 

[cold blood]

This was really interesting and helpful to read--thanks for posting. Out of curiosity, did you have any thoughts as to why the large enclosure caused them to hide more? I remember someone suggesting recently that a smaller enclosure mimics a burrow in the wild so the T will feel more secure. I'd love to hear any other ideas you had while doing your experiment.

My belief is basically as you suspected.

Awesome response. Thanks for the clarification. I think I'll put a cage divider in. I think I'm going to expire mentioned with the light some

Cage dividers don't really work well with ts, they're great at getting past them.

So. I read somewhere that I should wait for a week after getting my ts before I feed it. Should I? Also, what are your thoughts on gut loaded large meal worms rather than crickets?

Not true, many people, myself included, feed later the same day or the next day after receiving them. Feeding means they will be webbing, so by default, it can help a t acclimate IME.

Gut loading is a reptile term, we just call it feeding our feeders. Carrot and potato are good choices.

And yes, mealies are great for slings, they can be bought in bulk (cheaply) and kept in the fridge for months, and being that they are fattier, they will plump a t a little faster. There is no need to search out large mealies though, just the standard ones are fine...for slings I dice them and offer 1/3 of a mealworm. Mealworms are my favorite feeder for slings, not only for the reasons I mentioned, but also because if they aren't eaten, I don't have to chase down a mealworm piece or worry about it hiding, and on top of that, they tend to mold less and even when they do, its isolated to the worm, so its easy picking them back out if they're uneaten.

If you feed whole mealworms, always crush the heads first...they still live and wiggle for a while (and stay fresh), failure to do so will result in a quickly burrowed away mealie...not good for the t within the enclosure should it molt.

 

[steelerandrew]

 

[steelerandrew]

 

[Andrea82]

That is waaaaaay beyond too much space. If she climbs to the top and falls, she is dead.
Very barren as well. Raise substrate levels to 1,5-2 times de diagonal legspan. Put in the hide and waterdish, done.
Edit: Or rehouse into something that is half the size, or even less.

 

[cold blood]

The gauges and wires have me thinking heat mat...please tell me I'm wrong.

That gauge is about as useful as tits on a bull.

 

[SpiderDad61]

You think i should get a glass top or some other type of top?

Like I stated on another forum if u don't get a new plexi lid right away, simply make a framed border around the lid with packing tape, so the T cannot get a leg caught in the mesh. Works great.

 

[steelerandrew]

No heat mat, thats just wires running behind the enclosure to my sons lamp. He ate two crickets yesterday (small) and 1 the day before. Gonna try a couple meal-worms tomorrow. Thanks for the help.