Red's Arboreal Builds.

The Snark

Dumpster Fire of the Gods
Old Timer
Joined
Aug 8, 2005
Messages
11,046
Excuse me. All you primitive tribesmen and women. Dremel be series wound motor in a spiffity package. Adjust speed infinitely with light dimmer.
Hinteshness: Always start series wound motors at full throttle then dial em back.

For the more psychotic who doesn't want to barf up $5 for a light diddler, meketh yer owne. The Quadrac is a dork. Just grab a triac-diac pair.
 

Red Eunice

Arachnodemon
Joined
Mar 2, 2014
Messages
666
@Red Eunice I am not a handyman so am not familiar with this kind of thing. Is the epoxy for attaching the sheets together after they have been cut/snapped, like aquarium glass panels? Do you or anyone have a certain kind you use? Just asking because I wonder if all of them are T safe.

Did not know about score and snap for acrylic...closest thing to what you used that I see on Lowe's website is 0.118-in x 36-in x 72-in clear acrylic sheet for about $70. Would that work fine? Is it difficult to score and snap a piece so large? Also found 0.118 x 12 x 24 cast acrylic on Amazon...if buying smaller pieces makes that easier.
Handyman?? Everyone is a handyman to a certain degree. Lol!
1) The Loctite epoxy I use has yet to pose health hazards and is formulated for plastics. Glass tank manufacturer's use silicone, watertight, and framework for structural integrity. Don't use Tub-n-Tile silicone as it contains fungi/germicides.
2) I have a local sign manufactoring shop that I purchase full size acrylic sheets from. Examples: (4'X8' sheets) .118" @$48, .160" @$58, .180" @$65
3) Using .118", personally I'd build up to an 6"X6"X12" arboreal enclosure. The door size, 6"X7", may still warp slightly though, enough for small prey to escape.
4) Score-n- snap, you must score over half the material thickness to get a clean and straight break. Yes, I've done this w/h full sized sheets, quite tedious work. I'd love to own an 8' box-n-pan brake then I'd strictly use the score-n-snap method. I DO score-n-snap the height dimension then width/depth are cut on the table saw. Door cuts are on the band saw, kerfs are 3/32" and need a light sanding to remove the burring it produces.
5) Using a Dremel, I've models 3000 & 4200, produces less than acceptable cuts, irregardless what type discs I've tried or rpms used. Dremels are an excellent tool for any hobbiest, 1000s of uses, just buy a multi speed one. I bought the 1/8" glass hole cutting bit, using turbine oil @ 15K rpm, ground nearly perfect holes. Had to lightly remove the sharp edges w/h a non ferrous grinding stone though.
Hope the info is helpful. Be patient and good luck on the build.
 

Red Eunice

Arachnodemon
Joined
Mar 2, 2014
Messages
666
First off, NOT an arboreal scratch build, but a build nonetheless.
Requiring a larger enclosure for an upcoming rehouse I built a 4" wide 6" long by 3" deep acrylic one yesterday.
This acrylic, from scrap pieces, all measure .100" in thickness. Since its a small build this thickness won't warp over time.
Step by step photos, no I haven't the time or patience to create a video, of the build. One step, yet to accomplish, is a few vent holes drilled in the lid. Why the lid and not the sides? It'll house P. maximus scorpion with a small water dish for its drinking pleasure.

Ok, step one, affix tape and draw lines. Makes it easier to see when cutting on the band saw. 1)Taped&lines drawn.jpg
Step two. Carefully cut, on the lines, each piece. 2)Cut on bandsaw.jpg
Step three, can be omitted if your cuts are very straight, smooth the edges. I use this Dremel router attachment, great for small pieces. 3)Smooth the edges.jpg
Step four. Epoxy the ends & sides together at 90°, a square is handy, using tape to hold in place. Its 20 minute set time so you can adjust the fit. Leave be for an hour, while waiting, fire up the grill or feed some inverts. 4)Sides&ends epoxied.jpg
Step five. Same as step four, but creates the rectangle. 5)Ready for the base.jpg
Step six. Mix a larger amount of epoxy, apply all around the edges, place base in position. Carefully placing tape to keep firmly in place. Wait another hour. Ho hum! 6)Base attached.jpg
Step seven. Attaching the hardware. I apply the hinges and hasp to the door first, just because. Another hour wait, guess I'll cut the grass now. 7)Top with hinges and hasp.jpg
Step eight. Apply epoxy to the staple and hinges. Position the lid/top and tape in place. One hour to go. Yahoo! 8).jpg
Step nine. The waiting is over. Remove the tape and DONE! 9)Completed.jpg
Hopefully, this will encourage more people to try a "scratch" build. Easy, cheaper than store bought, gives a sense of accomplishment, doesn't require expensive equipment or special skills and practically anyone can build one.
Now, totally complete, drilled vent holes. 9)Completed.jpg
 

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