Questions about my T G. Rosea

[Gammazeta430]

Hi all,

This forum has a great deal of information and I absolutely love it! I purchased my first G. Rosea T over the weekend in an effort to help me with my arachnophobia (sounds crazy, I know). I have questions regarding the amount of room she has in her tank and some tips on how to change her water without risk of escapes (or bites). I'm a little worried that there isn't enough space for her. I know the general rule of thumb in terms of spacing but I purchased a small tank to keep costs down (since this is my first but hopefully not last time I'll care for an arachnid.)

1) In terms of the "log", is it too large? She seems to just hang around in tight space between it and the side. Should I remove it all together or try to cut it in half risking it breaking? I normally keep her in the shade anyhow (the amount of light shown in the image is generally the maximum). I also noticed a small amount of white secretion from one of her legs, but it looks dry. I can't tell if it was there before but just incase, does the log look a little too high where she can get injured?

2) I plan on removing the sponge as I read it only serves to breed bacteria and refill her water (which I don't think she's drinking, it's probably just evaporating) but I do have a concern that she may try to climb up the wall when I take off the top. How should I approach this situation as someone with arachnophobia?

3) Also, in terms of feeder crickets. I have a small feeder tank for them but they smell pretty bad and it dirties up very quickly. I'm worried that if I keep them outside they may die off or other smaller insects may hop in with them, then hop out if I bring them inside. Any advice?
EDIT:
I also made the rookie mistake of feeding her two days after she was placed in her new home. Should I remove the 3 feeder crickets in there since I doubt she'll eat them any time soon (they are hiding on top of the log which also worries me that she may get injured trying to catch them if she does feel comfortable enough to eat) If I should remove them, what's the quickest and easiest way to do so without risking my T trying to escape or attacking me since she will be stressed?

I posted two images to help with the first two questions.

Thanks!

 

[ratluvr76]

looks ok to me, but when she molts you may want to upgrade her to the next size keeper. The only other thing I can think of is she could use a bit more substrate. I would fill that enclosure about half way personally. Other than that, I think it looks great. I'm sure someone more experienced will correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[NewAgePrimal]

First off you should invest in a pair of long feeding tongs. You can get it at the pet store. Then you wont have to worry about the T mistaking your hand as lunch. More substrate is definitly needed. A fall from that height could seriously injure or kill your T. As for the white secretion, it would help to have a picture. Don't be afraid of her. It won't fly out and latch on your face. You are far more likely to hurt her than the chances of her hurting you. Take the crickets out. Try to feed her ONE in a week or two. Don't leave them in overnight. They'll just end up stressing it out. Yes, crickets stink. Don't buy so many next time. Enjoy your new pet.

 

[ratluvr76]

Ok, I did not read the whole post apparently? Not sure what happened? I thought you were only asking about the size of the enclosure. I'm sorry. Thank you NewAgePrimal!! Gah. Lol

 

[darkness975]

you don't need to feed her with the tongs, just drop the cricket in there and she will find it. The tongs are good for other forms of maintenance however.

 

[cold blood]

Hi all,

This forum has a great deal of information and I absolutely love it! I purchased my first G. Rosea T over the weekend in an effort to help me with my arachnophobia (sounds crazy, I know). I have questions regarding the amount of room she has in her tank and some tips on how to change her water without risk of escapes (or bites). I'm a little worried that there isn't enough space for her. I know the general rule of thumb in terms of spacing but I purchased a small tank to keep costs down (since this is my first but hopefully not last time I'll care for an arachnid.)

1) In terms of the "log", is it too large? She seems to just hang around in tight space between it and the side. Should I remove it all together or try to cut it in half risking it breaking? I normally keep her in the shade anyhow (the amount of light shown in the image is generally the maximum). I also noticed a small amount of white secretion from one of her legs, but it looks dry. I can't tell if it was there before but just incase, does the log look a little too high where she can get injured?

2) I plan on removing the sponge as I read it only serves to breed bacteria and refill her water (which I don't think she's drinking, it's probably just evaporating) but I do have a concern that she may try to climb up the wall when I take off the top. How should I approach this situation as someone with arachnophobia?

3) Also, in terms of feeder crickets. I have a small feeder tank for them but they smell pretty bad and it dirties up very quickly. I'm worried that if I keep them outside they may die off or other smaller insects may hop in with them, then hop out if I bring them inside. Any advice?
EDIT:
I also made the rookie mistake of feeding her two days after she was placed in her new home. Should I remove the 3 feeder crickets in there since I doubt she'll eat them any time soon (they are hiding on top of the log which also worries me that she may get injured trying to catch them if she does feel comfortable enough to eat) If I should remove them, what's the quickest and easiest way to do so without risking my T trying to escape or attacking me since she will be stressed?

I posted two images to help with the first two questions.

Thanks!

Wow, lot of info (all easily available here in previous threads btw). Don't worry about her trying to escape when you open the enclosure, this species isn't prone to that in the least. There's a reason they're often called "pet rocks", as you are about as likely to have a rock try to escape when you open it...lol. Lots of people, myself included, were once arachnophobic, its not uncommon as you think. While the species isn't always the best beginner due to all its quirks, I do believe they are good for helping get over irrational fear. They won't move much, won't aggressively attempt to escape, and generally just won't move quickly or very far. The actions that often cause fear can seem to become almost predictable with time to observe the individual, which helps put someone with "the fear" a little more at ease.

1) The enclosure looks just fine in terms of size for the time being. And what you are seeing at the joints is normal and nothing to think twice about. The hide looks fine as t's prefer tight to open hides. However, the species don't tend to use hides very often (mine hasn't in 6 years, and only rarely the previous 8), but I do keep a hide regardless, just in case it ever feels the need.

2)Yes, get that nasty sponge out of her dish. You won't see her drink often at all, if ever, regardless it should be there and always have fresh water. I see mine drink about once a year. And she won't likely climb up to meet you, that would be really odd for the species. To alleviate your concerns 1. don't take the top off, period, there's no reason to, just open the hatch on top and work through that. The only time I take the top completely off one of those enclosures is when I am re-housing. There's a few basic tools you should pick up, a long tweezers and a syringe of some kind. Most, if not all maintainence, can be done with the tweezers, its not wise to use your fingers, even with calm specimens. The syringe makes filling the dish easy, without the need to even open the lid or disturb the t.

3)Crickets are by nature, very dirty and for many people, difficult to keep alive, especially in bunches. Keep everything dry as moisture combined with the mess they make is a recipe for lots of mold, and fast. Also make sure to remove the dead as quickly as possible as they release ammonia, which causes mass deaths quickly. Death is very "catchy" with crickets. Feed dry things, like fish, dog or cat food.

Now feeding her 2 days after you got her is by no means a mistake, I tend to offer food the same day I get a t in the mail, just to judge its reaction...more often than not it gets snatched instantly. A meal helps them get comfortable IMO. The "rookie" mistake was putting 3 crickets in. Feed one single cricket at a time, and if its not eaten by morning, take it out. Crickets ARE predatory and if the t were to molt it would become a cricket buffet. The species has very low food requirements, and one cricket a week is plenty. Aside from after a molt, mine gets fed every 10-20 days and still fasts regularly. These t's are very commonly over-fed. The crickets won't be easy to catch, I just use a plastic stick, and when I locate the crickets I just crush them and remove the body with a tweezers. So yes, take them out asap.

Also be aware that they have a strong tendency to fast for extended periods of time, 3-6 month fasts are nothing, in fact year long fasts are not really that rare at all. If the t won't eat, don't fret, its normal. I only really offer mine food when I see her in a hunting posture, which is generally spread out. When they are sitting tightly like yours is, feeding isn't even worth it, wait till its demeanor changes.

Also be aware that the species HATES moisture, so keep everything bone dry, don't ever mist, don't overflow the water dish, nothing. Moisture will shut them down and put them into a fast or up on the glass, well after the enclosure has dried.

Which leads to up on the glass...there's too much room on that glass. Fill the enclosure at least halfway with substrate so that a fall won't be a fatal ordeal. They're not the best climbers, but that won't stop them, especially at night. Many other species also appreciate the depth to burrow or whatever, but this species doesn't tend to burrow in captivity for whatever reason, which means she'll likely always be visible.

Best of luck with your first t and good luck overcoming your irrational fear of spiders.

 

[Gammazeta430]

Thanks for the input everyone.

When adding more substrate, is there any way to "carefully" do this without removing my T? or is that a bad idea altogether? I have a spare shoe box, but at this early in my T raising I'd prefer not to physically interact with her.

Thanks.

 

[skippydude]

Your tarantula will use the hide if you cover one end with substrate, blocking most of the light beaming through it.

 

[NewAgePrimal]

Thanks for the input everyone.

When adding more substrate, is there any way to "carefully" do this without removing my T? or is that a bad idea altogether? I have a spare shoe box, but at this early in my T raising I'd prefer not to physically interact with her.

Thanks.

You mentioned getting this spider to help conqure your fear. Take a deli cup with a lid and a paint brush. Place the open end of the cup in front of her then GENTLY prod her back legs to get her to move into the cup. It's not as scary as you think.

 

[gobey]

You mentioned getting this spider to help conqure your fear. Take a deli cup with a lid and a paint brush. Place the open end of the cup in front of her then GENTLY prod her back legs to get her to move into the cup. It's not as scary as you think.

Yeah every so often you're going to have to kind of manipulate the animal around it's environment to do some kind of maintenance. It's just how it is. Whether you're just cleaning or completely redesigning like you are. I have to so something similar with my 2 L. Parahybanas and I'm not looking forward to it. But I get it over with now. Or wait until next molt when they're even bigger and more of a hassle to handle to refit their enclosures, or just bite the bullet and get it over with now. Because it's honestly not that complicated. It's bugs in cups.

My G Rosea put up with a ton of rookie crap from me. Including 2 rehousing in the first month I had her,

You'll be fine. Look up rose hair re housing vids

 

[Storm76]

That cage is large enough to simply put a catchcup over the T in case the keeper -has- to reach into the enclosure. Usually, that isn't necessary but sometimes you need to take out the waterdish and if your tongs aren't of good enough qualitiy, chances are you'l drop it by accident. Under those circumstance, or with large waterdishes like the one with my A. geniculata or G. pulchripes, I make sure the T is secured and only the reach into the cage to get the dish out for cleaning. It's really simple. Example is the vid I made for another AB user a year or so ago in regards to transferring a T:

[YOUTUBE]wqB4mPXqDGw[/YOUTUBE]

 

[Formerphobe]

Congrats on your first tarantula! I got my first B. smithi more than 30 years ago to overcome arachnophobia. That's one reason why many people get into the hobby.
Tools of the trade:
10 - 12 inch tongs,
catch cups (deli cups),
long handled artist's paint brush (or chopsticks),
copy of Tarantula Keeper's Guide,
etc.....

There are many 'wrong' ways to do things, and there are also many 'right' ways. You'll hear and read a lot of variations on a theme.

Substrate and enclosure: If it were me, I'd leave her where she is for the moment and invest in the next size up KK, or equivalent sized tank.
Mix topsoil or sphagnum peat with coconut fiber, dampen it enough to get a good mix and so you can pack it well. Tarantulas dislike loose substrate. Put that very nice piece of corkbark round at an angle and partially bury it in the well packed substrate so it forms a burrow. She may never use it, or she may... Maximum ceiling height should be about one and a half times tarantula legspan to avoid falls. Allow the new set up to sit lidless until the substrate is bone dry before rehousing your G. porteri. (She appears to be porteri vs rosea.)
Save her current enclosure for your next tarantula...

Definitely lose the sponge.

There is no need to ever physically interact with her unless she comes up with a molt or medical issue.

Can you get a picture of the white stuff on her leg?

Do not place her where direct sun can hit the enclosure. Even though tarantulas come from warm climates, they burrow to escape the heat. Some have very deep burrows. Most tarantulas are more tolerant of a little cool than a lot of heat. Enclosures can heat up very quickly in direct sun and the spider has nowhere to go to escape. (You could place the new set up in the sun, sans spider, to speed substrate drying process.)

When you take off the lid, she'll most likely just huddle in place. Some individuals, once settled, may exhibit 'inquisitiveness' (anticipating food), or defensiveness (out of fear). Grammostola species, in general, tend to be pretty sedate as Ts go.

I always feed mine the same day as arrival unless they're in obvious premolt.
If she hasn't eaten the crickets in a 24 hour period, remove them. My adults get offered 1 to 2 crickets every 1 to 2 weeks. With only one spider, you may want to offer larger meals less frequently (i.e. 3 - 4 crickets once a month) to save you running back and forth for crickets. Rosea/porteri are infamous for random fasting, sometimes for months. As long as she has access to clean water and her abdomen is nice and rounded and not raisin-esque, no worries.

Removing crickets - tongs. Initially you may feel like the Karate Kid trying to catch a fly with chopsticks, but you'll get the hang of it.
Or, you could place a catch cup over her and grab the crickets.