New upcoming home for my D diamantinensis

BassCatPIV

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It's almost time to rehouse my d diamantinensis. How does this look? The substrate is still moist so I'm going to give it a few more days to dry out.
 

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BassCatPIV

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Dumb question... what can I do to speed up the process of drying out the substrate?
 

ccTroi

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Dumb question... what can I do to speed up the process of drying out the substrate?
I would empty the enclosure, squeeze out as much water from the substrate, let it sit loosely overnight, and put back in.
 

BoyFromLA

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Dumb question... what can I do to speed up the process of drying out the substrate?
By using dry substrates in the first place.

Top soil with no fertilizer in it, only costs $1-2 per 20lbs bag.
 
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Craig73

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Recommend adding some anchor points for webbing. You could do a small hide, it’ll start webbing off of that.

If thats a real plant I‘d remove; doesn’t look like it’s doing so hot and will eventually get webbed over. If you want a plant I’d go with something fake. The water dish will eventually be sucked into a web abyss. You can leave it in, or take it out once you see it starting to get webbed over and from that point forward drop water on its web.

I‘m about to rehouse my 1” slings out of their deli cups this week. Should be fun times.
 

The Grym Reaper

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Aim for something similar to this.

Heavy Webber setup 1.jpg

Also, the sub doesn't have to be bone dry like it would have to be for C. cyaneopubescens, this species does absolutely fine with some moisture in the sub.
 

viper69

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It's almost time to rehouse my d diamantinensis. How does this look? The substrate is still moist so I'm going to give it a few more days to dry out.
Depends on size of T

Can bake the sub in oven to dry faster
 

Frogdaddy

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Taking the lid off the enclosure for a few days will also help dry it out. Baking it in the oven would be way faster with that small amount of substrate.
 

xXTristinaXx

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Aim for something similar to this.

View attachment 384389

Also, the sub doesn't have to be bone dry like it would have to be for C. cyaneopubescens, this species does absolutely fine with some moisture in the sub.
kinda looks a little big for that small thing, you probably have more experience than me so tell me if I'm wrong and is something GBB likes
 

Craig73

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kinda looks a little big for that small thing, you probably have more experience than me so tell me if I'm wrong and is something GBB likes
The enclosure size @The Grym Reaper has is similar to what I’m putting mine into. They are prolific webers and hunters and that gives them the adequate space to do their thing. While they only get to ~3” they will utilize the space.

For me it all depends on the T and how it uses the enclosure. I have some I go bigger with because they have proven to do well in their current enclosures and are great hunters. Others I hold back and keep strictly in a size appropriate enclosures. Case in point is my 1” obt is in a 8x6x6. Not because I want to avoid rehousing sooner than later, but because it has proven in its junior enclosure to thrive well. It’s acclimated to the larger setup remarkably. My 1” H. pulchripes on the other hand hasn‘t proven it would do well in the larger setup yet and is being held back until it’s size appropriate.

Thats how I roll.
 

The Grym Reaper

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kinda looks a little big for that small thing, you probably have more experience than me so tell me if I'm wrong and is something GBB likes
That's not a C. cyaneopubescens in there (the only reason I even mentioned the species was because the OP seemed a little fixated on getting the sub dry), this was the juvenile setup I used for my female D. diamantinensis (photo was taken the day after rehousing so you can see that she actually settled in and started webbing pretty quickly, I also raised a male to maturity in an identical setup). Anyway, that tub is about the same size as a small faunarium (9" x 6" x 6.5") and that enclosure size what I've used for housing juveniles between 2 - 3.5 inches for the last 5 years without issue.

You can get away with giving heavy webbing terrestrials a bit more space than their typically terrestrial counterparts though, they generally fill most of the (if not all of the) space with webbing pretty quickly and are fast growers/active hunters.
 

BassCatPIV

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I still need a few more days to dry out the substrate in the new enclosure. However, after reading some of the comments I have a question about enclosure size. The enclosure pic that I attached is 4 inches x 4 inches x 5 inches. Would I be better off getting a 9 inch x 6 inch x 6.5 inch? My T is about 1.5 inches right now.
 

Craig73

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Would I be better off getting a 9 inch x 6 inch x 6.5 inch? My T is about 1.5 inches right now.
I would go with the larger vs the cube. That’s just my preference. The growth rate is pretty decent, so you’d be rehousing again in a few molts anyways.
 

Craig73

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Where can I get the enclosure (container) that you posted from?
I’m using Herpcult medium-flat. There’s other companies like Tarantula Cribs as well. But if you don’t want to drop that much on an enclosure places like The Container Store have clear plastic shoe boxes for about $10 that you could drill or solder air holes into and would equally as nice once setup as a $40 enclosure.

I also use Amac boxes as well for smaller T’s. All depends on budget and what you like. The more expensive enclosures don’t necessarily make them any better.
 

Craig73

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Thanks! I just ordered one.
I’ll share my build in the next day or so. I may use driftwood, but we’ll see. I have bark as well but have quite a few juvenile avics to rehouse as well so we shall see what I do. The cutting and find shapes I like always takes the longest.

Acrylic does scratch much easier than plastic, but I will tell you the enclosure lid slides all the way off giving you plenty of room to design your setup without much worry. Pro tip - don’t just poor the substraight in, use something to scoop it and poor so you don’t have debris all over the side of the enclosure. I also use a microfiber towel to gently clean any debris. Cotton like a t shirt can work as well.

Another tip is find out which way you want the lid to slide open, right or left, and then build out the interior. I found out the hard way. I found I prefer the lid to start to open on the opposite side of the hide. I have one that opens directly over the T which isn‘t a big deal unless you have a defensive specimen. The more barrier I have the better.
 
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