New pede questions

Webslinger

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
20
Hello all,

I just got my new pede! It's a S. subspines de hanni from what I can tell. About 6-7 inches - I decided to feed her 4 crickets today as I wasn't sure when the last time she ate. Is this overkill? I was thinking at this size 3-5 per week.

Is it okay to feed her 3-5 at once and then wait a week or better to space it out like say 1 per day for 5 days?

Two more questions - Can too much moisture negatively effect her?

My room that she is in is usually between 75-85 degrees w/out a heat lamp over her tank. Should I invest in a heat lamp to place above her tank? And should she have a hot side/Cold side? - think reptiles like a ball python with hides on the hot/cold side.
 

Galapoheros

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Jul 4, 2005
Messages
8,984
I mostly keep S. heros pedes. I've only had one subspinipes, a Malaysian Cherry Red. I still have it. I've had it for over 1.5 years now. I keep mine in a air-conditioned room (mid 70's) with plastic wrap around the sliding screen top, in a 10 gal. All the heros are in an unairconditioned room. I don't think the subspinipes subspecies I have likes it very warm. Like I said though, I've never had any of the other subspecies. I don't really go by a schedule when I feed my stuff. But I guess I'd offer it a full grown cricket once a week, esp since you think you have it caught up. I kind of have a mental alarm when it comes to feeding time, I don't keep up with the days, to the day. I prob feed my pedes once every 5 to 10 days and with one or maybe two crickets/roaches. Throwing in a second cricket depends on how each one acts when I feed it the first one and how fat/skinny they look. My subspinipes hasn't had a problem with allot of moisture but it can be a problem. They can get something called "foot rot" or mycosis. It happens when their systems can't hold back fungal infections anymore because the conditions are just too ripe for the fungi. You would start to see blackening, usually at the joints. Just dry it out a little if that happens and when the next molt comes around, the blackening from the mycosis should be gone. The heros I have will get that before the subspinipes will. No heat lamp. I have mine on about 3 or 4 inches of coco fiber and with a large flat rock that takes up a little less than half of the walking area.
 

Webslinger

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jul 25, 2007
Messages
20
Awesome thanks for all the info - I had an old heat lamp with a really weak 50watt bulb that I put about 1ft from her tank. I figured the heat would help her get really humid in there.

1-2 crickets a week. Ouch! I fed her 4 and she was still hunting around the cage. Although now she's become very lethargic and is enjoying her new hide.

Another question - Not relating to cents but I might as well ask since we are on the topics of housings.

Do T-blondi's require any sort of heat lamp to regulate their cage temp or are they fine at room temp?

Thanks in advance :D
 

MasamuneX7

Arachnosquire
Old Timer
Joined
Oct 16, 2005
Messages
70
Awesome thanks for all the info - I had an old heat lamp with a really weak 50watt bulb that I put about 1ft from her tank. I figured the heat would help her get really humid in there.

1-2 crickets a week. Ouch! I fed her 4 and she was still hunting around the cage. Although now she's become very lethargic and is enjoying her new hide.

Another question - Not relating to cents but I might as well ask since we are on the topics of housings.

Do T-blondi's require any sort of heat lamp to regulate their cage temp or are they fine at room temp?

Thanks in advance :D
They are fine at room temp. Humidity is more important. Keep it between 75 and 85%. They tend to have more problems than other tarantulas when it comes to dehydration.

Inverts aren't as needy as herps, so you'd do fine without a heat lamp for any of them.
 
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