My GBB sling not webbing?

mistertim

Arachnobaron
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Sep 4, 2015
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Yeah definitely supply more anchor points. They will eventually find a way to web without them but they will be much happier with some cork and a fake plant or two that they can attach webbing to. I just rehoused my GBB to its juvie enclosure about a week ago and supplied multiple anchor points and it started using them and webbing up pretty heavily about a day after the rehouse.
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
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What would be the best method to provide moisture? A small waterdish or would it get enough moisture from its food?
I always provide water. This is a species with one of the more aggressive feeding responses, and a fast metabolism. Feed it often and it should be fine most of the time. However once they hit 2" they will definitely need water. Even a T with a FAT abdomen NEEDS water. I've seen 2" all the way to adult sized Ts with huge abdomens still drink water.

In short, don't think a T w/a fat abdomen won't drink.
 

DeathMarch6

Arachnopeon
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Sep 21, 2016
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Tong feeding isn't recommended because if your T bites metal it can damage or lose fang/s. If it loses both fangs, it will almost surely die of starvation.

You're better off doing one of 2 things

1. Scavenge feed w/pre-killed cricket if you keep that size container
2. Putting it in a much smaller container that increase prey/predator interactions.

Your T is on the thin side, it needs more food/water or both. If you keep that container, I'd definitely bring the water bowl much closer, sink it into the sub. I've noticed small Ts tend not to climb up objects to drink.

They are hunters, they hunt from day 1 in the wild, your container should be no different ;)

I raised mine as Mello did above.
Okay since then it's taken 2 pinhead crickets, it had the first one then in the pic and has since had another in the hide. After hearing that I'll stop the tongs for definite! So just dry the substrate and sink the bowl closer?
 

clive 82

Arachnoknight
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I always provide water. This is a species with one of the more aggressive feeding responses, and a fast metabolism. Feed it often and it should be fine most of the time. However once they hit 2" they will definitely need water. Even a T with a FAT abdomen NEEDS water. I've seen 2" all the way to adult sized Ts with huge abdomens still drink water.

In short, don't think a T w/a fat abdomen won't drink.
I also always provide a waterdish, Ive never kept slings before though so was just wondering if this also applied to slings?
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
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Okay since then it's taken 2 pinhead crickets, it had the first one then in the pic and has since had another in the hide. After hearing that I'll stop the tongs for definite! So just dry the substrate and sink the bowl closer?
Feed it as often as it will eat, which will probably be almost every day to every other day depending upon temps in your flat, and how many crix you feed it each time. I always give them as many crix as they want in a single meal. If that's 5, so be it. Their only job is to grow larger to avoid being eaten at this size.

I also always provide a waterdish, Ive never kept slings before though so was just wondering if this also applied to slings?
It won't hurt if you provide one, but might if you don't ;) Considering you have never kept slings, I'd provide one.

I make these, but use a deeper bowl so I don't have fill them up as often. http://www.tarantulasus.com/showthread.php/4353-A-tip-for-a-Tip-resistant-water-dish

For tiny containers, I add water w/a blunt syringe onto the webbing etc
 

clive 82

Arachnoknight
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Sep 11, 2016
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Feed it as often as it will eat, which will probably be almost every day to every other day depending upon temps in your flat, and how many crix you feed it each time. I always give them as many crix as they want in a single meal. If that's 5, so be it. Their only job is to grow larger to avoid being eaten at this size.



It won't hurt if you provide one, but might if you don't ;) Considering you have never kept slings, I'd provide one.
I will definitely provide a waterdish when I get my first sling.
 

DeathMarch6

Arachnopeon
Joined
Sep 21, 2016
Messages
45
Feed it as often as it will eat, which will probably be almost every day to every other day depending upon temps in your flat, and how many crix you feed it each time. I always give them as many crix as they want in a single meal. If that's 5, so be it. Their only job is to grow larger to avoid being eaten at this size.



It won't hurt if you provide one, but might if you don't ;) Considering you have never kept slings, I'd provide one.

I make these, but use a deeper bowl so I don't have fill them up as often. http://www.tarantulasus.com/showthread.php/4353-A-tip-for-a-Tip-resistant-water-dish

For tiny containers, I add water w/a blunt syringe onto the webbing etc
Okay thank you my water dish is targeted at slings it's small and fairly weighted for its size
 

mistertim

Arachnobaron
Joined
Sep 4, 2015
Messages
548
I have two GBB slings. They are in 16oz deli cups with vent holes made from a thumb tack. No "anchor points", no hide, no water dish. Just maybe 1/2" of substrate and they have both webbed like crazy over the last year.









:D
 

Venom1080

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Sep 24, 2015
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i dont get the deal with anchor points. they do nothing! the spider will attach webs to the sides all day! the only thing adding anchor points such as plants and cork bark do is make the webbing more unique looking. the only genus where anchor points should be included are Avicularia.
 

mistertim

Arachnobaron
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i dont get the deal with anchor points. they do nothing! the spider will attach webs to the sides all day! the only thing adding anchor points such as plants and cork bark do is make the webbing more unique looking. the only genus where anchor points should be included are Avicularia.








Well, yeah, they'll web without them. I have just found that my GBB webs up much faster when it has a few places to anchor. *shrug*
 

DeathMarch6

Arachnopeon
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Sep 21, 2016
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Hi guys I've rehomed the GBB sling to a smaller container, changed the substrate to a more ground coco fibre and a lot dryer. I've sunk the sling water dish into the substrate so it's ground level and keep it shallow to prevent drowning. My sling has a bold dull patch on abdomen and hasn't been taking the live crickets, he used to take them no worries now he runs away and stresses out but if I leave them dead I'll find him eating one later on. Could he be pre molt? Here are some pics
 

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Trenor

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i dont get the deal with anchor points. they do nothing! the spider will attach webs to the sides all day! the only thing adding anchor points such as plants and cork bark do is make the webbing more unique looking. the only genus where anchor points should be included are Avicularia.
Why add them for Avics? They can web the walls just like any other T. They are not the only T to hide in fake plants or funnels made form webbing.

In videos of GBBs in the wild, I've seen them use the base of a bush to web off of. They made heavy web tunnels to hide in and hunt for prey. Why not give them the same thing in their enclosure? You could make the argument that the box is is like the bush and is the only anchor points that is needed. This would be true if we never opened the lid. They could use all six sides and web just as good with no extra webbing points. However, we do take off the lid and that usually will cause a large portion of the webbing to fall without anchor points. It's no accident that in all my enclosures the hanging leaf anchor points get webbed up before any open areas with just walls. It's just easier for the T to do this than run webbing all way across the enclosure.

Some Ts don't web much so they don't need them but I think anchor points are beneficial for any webbing tarantulas regardless if it's a arboreal or terrestrial.
 

Trenor

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Hi guys I've rehomed the GBB sling to a smaller container, changed the substrate to a more ground coco fibre and a lot dryer. I've sunk the sling water dish into the substrate so it's ground level and keep it shallow to prevent drowning. My sling has a bold dull patch on abdomen and hasn't been taking the live crickets, he used to take them no worries now he runs away and stresses out but if I leave them dead I'll find him eating one later on. Could he be pre molt? Here are some pics
I would add a large fake leaf or something to act as a hide for the T. It'll help it to have a place it can go to to feel safe. It might be in premolt or it might just be full. How often are you feeding it?
 

DeathMarch6

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I would add a large fake leaf or something to act as a hide for the T. It'll help it to have a place it can go to to feel safe. It might be in premolt or it might just be full. How often are you feeding it?
I left it for 4 days and it's still moving away from live food ..
 

Trenor

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I left it for 4 days and it's still moving away from live food ..
What I do when feeding is put in a prey item and leave it over night. If the T hasn't eaten it by the next day I take it out. Then I wait a week and then try again. I wouldn't leave food in longer then a day. If the T is hungry it'll eat by then and you don't want to risk the T being hurt it it's molting by the cricket.
 
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