Minor leopard gecko advice

EightLeggedFrea

Arachnoangel
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I'll be getting my leo (my first herp) in some time soon, and am wondering a thing or two. Although these lizards come from deserts, in captivity they are provided with a "humid hide box" to aid in shedding.

Which is better to use as a humid hide substrate? Peat moss or coconut fiber? Also the leo in question is a fairly young (5-6") adult, so how much should I feed it (I've got dubia and B. lateralis roaches) and how often? And what kind of calcium supplement do I need for it and where can I obtain it?
 

LeilaNami

Arachnoking
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I used moist peat moss for the humid hide. Not sure which roach to use since I always used crickets but at 5-6" I used large sized crickets if that gives you any idea. For the calcium supplement I always use Reptivite with D3 (since they are crepuscular I felt better about using it with the D3 but non D3 is available). I just favor Reptivite because it has other vitamins and minerals besides calcium. Reptivite can be found at Petco. There's also Reptilife which is similar and can be found at PetSmart. You might be able to start feeding every other day at that size. I would get a second opinion on that though.
 

smartie

Arachnosquire
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I feed my leo 6 mealworms every second day, and she is doing very good on it. Im not sure what the roach equivalent of a mealworm is, but im guessing four or five dubias every second day would be enough. Just my guess :)
 

ORO

Arachnoknight
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When I was breeding these, the diet was crickets, June bugs in season, the odd grub I would find, and as well pink mice they love them and providing a ton of nutrition, I would be hesitant to have your gecko on a diet of meal worms only.
 

desertdweller

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I'd second that. Mealworms don't provide balanced nutrition. Crickets, though they are high in fat are better all around food. I'd say your roaches are even better. More meaty, less fat. A variety of others bugs is always good. With herps there is not the danger of additional wild caught bugs as with T's.
 

smartie

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...and as well pink mice they love them and providing a ton of nutrition, I would be hesitant to have your gecko on a diet of meal worms only.
Yes i have recently begun to feed my girl lobster roaches to supplement the mealworms, but im still trying to figure out how many to feed in one sitting. My mealworms are gutloaded with Sera Raffy I and P, so i guess they are more nutritious than normal store-bought worms.

Sorry to highjack the thread, but how do you feed a pinky to a leo? Live or prekilled or what? Id like to try that
 

ORO

Arachnoknight
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^ depending on you they will relish a pinky live or dead, I always fed live cause with 100 animals it was easier to do. Feed your gecko what it will eat and remove the rest, you will see how nice and plump they get on a varied diet, and breeding is so easy with these guys.
 

gecko_keeper/KBfauna

Arachnobaron
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We use crickets and roaches. The crickets do get a better feed response out of them. A simple "shake and bake" with either is fine every couple of feedings. Ours get fed every 2 days.
we also use "nest" boxes, with either moist peat moss or moist vermiculite.
Hope this helps,
GK
 

maxxx

Arachnopeon
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without D3

use calcium supplement without D3 in a bowl they will just lick it up. Roaches and/or mealworms is your best choice.
 

LeilaNami

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use calcium supplement without D3 in a bowl they will just lick it up. Roaches and/or mealworms is your best choice.
I have NEVER had a leo willing to do this. Your best bet is to dust the food to ensure it will be getting the amount of supplementation it needs.
 

maxxx

Arachnopeon
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D3

I have about 20 adults and and odd # of babies and they all lick it up out of the soda top bowl or etc. You should leave it in their all the time and make sure it is without D3.
 

LeilaNami

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I have about 20 adults and and odd # of babies and they all lick it up out of the soda top bowl or etc. You should leave it in their all the time and make sure it is without D3.
Just a quick question: Why without D3? They are crepuscular and do receive a small amount of UV though it may or may not be needed. Wouldn't the D3 make up for the couple of hours they would naturally receive when you don't use the lighting?

EDIT: Rereading my leo care sources, most if not all state that D3 is required. They do say they will lap up the calcium from a bowl however also go on to say the food itself needs to be dusted once a week.
 
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maxxx

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They are creature,s of the night nocturnal ground dwelling . So they are usually sleeping by day. They need Uv to convert D3 or it will build up and me harmful or deadly in due time . You can give them D3 once or twice a month .

Just a quick question: Why without D3? They are crepuscular and do receive a small amount of UV though it may or may not be needed. Wouldn't the D3 make up for the couple of hours they would naturally receive when you don't use the lighting?

EDIT: Rereading my leo care sources, most if not all state that D3 is required. They do say they will lap up the calcium from a bowl however also go on to say the food itself needs to be dusted once a week.
 

LeilaNami

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They are primarily nocturnal,yes, but are still crepuscular. I would get another opinion about the D3 however. I have always used it and never had a problem. I will give my breeder a call in the morning to double check.
 
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