Little worried

ReeferSheppness

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jan 16, 2022
Messages
11
I'm sorry to hear that :( At the very least, the seller was honest with you. I'm hoping that this event won't deter you from trying again. If you're up to it, may I reccomend Lasiodora parahybana (Brazilian Salmon Pink) or Acanthoscurria geniculata (Brazilian Giant Whiteknee) ? Both will reach up to 8"+ and are much more readily available as slings or otherwise, a lot less expensive... and the best thing about them, neither are extremely sensitive to moisture. They'll appreciate a bit of moist sub in a corner or half of the enclosure, but no more. Both make amazing display spiders and generally have a ravenous appetite, making feeding day very entertaining.

If you're raising a sling, don't fret, they quickly outgrow the sling stage in a matter of months. In a year or two, you'll have a beautiful adult to enjoy for many years, if female, that is. Males are much, MUCH shorter lived.
Thank you for your kindness
 

LucN

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Messages
315
Thank you for your kindness
You are quite welcome. I always try my best to be as helpful and gentle as possible.

Now that I look at it though, that cage is still way too large for any tarantula. It would make a great Bearded Dragon enclosure, for one. Another option would to have a communal of Emperor or Asian Forest Scorpions. If you're still considering another tarantula, I'd say a 10 gallon glass tank would more than enough room for even a Theraphosa.

Once again, I hope the loss won't deter you from exploring further. The variety of tarantulas available today is mind-boggling. Was Frank your first spider ? If so, maybe it would be best to retry with a even more forgiving species like Tliltocatl albopilosus (Curlyhair), Grammostola pulchripes (Chaco Golden Knee) or the ultimate classic T : Brachypelma hamorii (Mexican Redknee). All 3 have fairly simple husbandry requirements (no need to moisten the substrate, a full water dish will meet their hydration needs), generally have a decent appetite (don't overfeed them, tho) and females often live up to 30+ years if that interests you.

The big thing about the tarantula hobby is that there's no reason to rush. Take your time, learn about them as much as you can. Read, read, read everything you'll find on this site. Without a doubt, Arachnoboards is by far the absolute best resource on tarantulas and other arachnids on the internet. Most importantly, enjoy them :)

Best of luck in whatever path you choose to take.
 

ReeferSheppness

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jan 16, 2022
Messages
11
You are quite welcome. I always try my best to be as helpful and gentle as possible.

Now that I look at it though, that cage is still way too large for any tarantula. It would make a great Bearded Dragon enclosure, for one. Another option would to have a communal of Emperor or Asian Forest Scorpions. If you're still considering another tarantula, I'd say a 10 gallon glass tank would more than enough room for even a Theraphosa.

Once again, I hope the loss won't deter you from exploring further. The variety of tarantulas available today is mind-boggling. Was Frank your first spider ? If so, maybe it would be best to retry with a even more forgiving species like Tliltocatl albopilosus (Curlyhair), Grammostola pulchripes (Chaco Golden Knee) or the ultimate classic T : Brachypelma hamorii (Mexican Redknee). All 3 have fairly simple husbandry requirements (no need to moisten the substrate, a full water dish will meet their hydration needs), generally have a decent appetite (don't overfeed them, tho) and females often live up to 30+ years if that interests you.

The big thing about the tarantula hobby is that there's no reason to rush. Take your time, learn about them as much as you can. Read, read, read everything you'll find on this site. Without a doubt, Arachnoboards is by far the absolute best resource on tarantulas and other arachnids on the internet. Most importantly, enjoy them :)

Best of luck in whatever path you choose to take.
I see when i was researching the theraphosa species The 20 gallon terrarium and the dimensions for it came up in multiple different articles and videos pertaining to the husbandry of the theraphosa genus, however I didn't have enough substrate and far from enough places for Frank to hide (the terrarium goes about 3 inches deeper beyond the end of the glass as its designed for a reptile and has a drawer built in to the bottom)

Frank isn't technally my first T he is my second as a teenager I was bought a T for my like 15 birthday he was a rose hair T I think thats what they are called (not sure of the genus didnt care as a kid) and wayy lower matenince then the theraphosa genus his name was viper and he lived 6 years
 
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LucN

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Messages
315
Indeed, there is a huge difference in husbandry between Grammostola (Rose Hair, Chaco, Brazilian Black, etc) and Theraphosa.

Do you plan on giving it another go ? Just curious.
 

ReeferSheppness

Arachnopeon
Joined
Jan 16, 2022
Messages
11
Indeed, there is a huge difference in husbandry between Grammostola (Rose Hair, Chaco, Brazilian Black, etc) and Theraphosa.

Do you plan on giving it another go ? Just curious.
Indeed, I started to ask around and talk to people locally about spider breeders and I ended up finding a breeder that specializes in the Theraphosa genus Theraphosa Apophysis (Pink Footed Goliath) I am well aware of the advanced care needed for Theraphosa genus and wish to try again also at this point my heart is set on giving a Goliath the life I couldn't give to Frank, The breeders specimens are slings and still are far from adult maturity.
 

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LucN

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Messages
315
Awesome ! Captive-bred slings are definitely the way to go ! It won't take long before that apophysis becomes massive. Best of luck raising it and hope it ends up being female for you :)
 

cold blood

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
13,259
I find it baffling that your previous t was assumed to be WC, or that its demise, or bald patch could be because it was potentially WC. There is no way to determine WC by looking at it, or by its behavior. Also, considering Brazil has closed borders, WC is actually unlikely at this time.
 

LucN

Arachnobaron
Old Timer
Joined
Jan 22, 2009
Messages
315
I find it baffling that your previous t was assumed to be WC, or that its demise, or bald patch could be because it was potentially WC. There is no way to determine WC by looking at it, or by its behavior. Also, considering Brazil has closed borders, WC is actually unlikely at this time.
In my defence, I was unaware that they were no longer available as WC. Every Theraphosa I've seen (as photos in older books or even those displayed in Insectariums) have ALWAYS been with bald opithosomas and wear and tear over their carapace and legs. That to me suggests that they've been roughed up enough, such as being pulled out of their comfy burrows in nature and tossed and turned during international shipping from their country of origin to where we are.

I can admit that I have never owned a Theraphosa, but I can say with my personal experience (even if limited to Brachypelma/Grammostola) suggests that captive bred animals rarely show such conditions, probably because they aren't plucked from their comfy burrows and shipped to the other end of the world. To give an example, I have a B. boehmei, probably one of the worst Ts with a reputation of flicking hairs with little to no provocation. Over the years, she rarely if ever flicks hairs unless seriously startled or that she'll lining her molting mat.

Don't most captive Ts settle into their enclosures to a point where they don't feel the need to flick in defence ? Or are Theraphosa and most larger NWs an exception ?
 

me and my Ts

Arachnoknight
Joined
Mar 20, 2021
Messages
251
Don’t stress about keeping the sling, I have a stirmi sling and they’re very easy to keep, just make sure the substrate stays pretty moist and make sure to give them a hide, mine like to burrow and unfortunately stays in their hide a lot
 

cold blood

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
13,259
In my defence, I was unaware that they were no longer available as WC. Every Theraphosa I've seen (as photos in older books or even those displayed in Insectariums) have ALWAYS been with bald opithosomas and wear and tear over their carapace and legs. That to me suggests that they've been roughed up enough, such as being pulled out of their comfy burrows in nature and tossed and turned during international shipping from their country of origin to where we are.

I can admit that I have never owned a Theraphosa, but I can say with my personal experience (even if limited to Brachypelma/Grammostola) suggests that captive bred animals rarely show such conditions, probably because they aren't plucked from their comfy burrows and shipped to the other end of the world. To give an example, I have a B. boehmei, probably one of the worst Ts with a reputation of flicking hairs with little to no provocation. Over the years, she rarely if ever flicks hairs unless seriously startled or that she'll lining her molting mat.

Don't most captive Ts settle into their enclosures to a point where they don't feel the need to flick in defence ? Or are Theraphosa and most larger NWs an exception ?
Tjis assumes that this couldnt happen with a t shipped within the US. Lots of Theraphosa start to look rough at the back end of their molt cycles.
 
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