Lethargic Tarantula

[Edan bandoot]

heat isn't an issue if its not below 18C during daytime temps consistently and even then all it does is decrease metabolism.

Enclosure is kinda big.

replace screentop.

skull takes up unnecessary floor space

if you're concerned with having trouble caring for the spider I reckon making the enclosure "bioactive" only further complicates things. One thing at a time.

don't mist.

Additionally some people have reported unexplainable random deaths in this species and other lampropelma (which it was formarly)

 

[viper69]

Additionally some people have reported unexplainable random deaths in this species and other lampropelma (which it was formarly)

There's a long time breeder I know for these, he always told me they need to be on the moist side a bit. Just his experience, can't speak to others. In my case I kept the males I raised a little damp, not bone dry due to his advice.

I am open to feedback but I don’t agree with the “it’s my way and nothing else” approach

I don't see that approach here. People, like @Smotzer , are suggesting methods to make your setup easier to manage, nothing more. We all have different perspectives, If you believe the approaches provided are not best for your pet so be it

 

[Edan bandoot]

There's a long time breeder I know for these, he always told me they need to be on the moist side a bit. Just his experience, can't speak to others. In my case I kept the males I raised a little damp, not bone dry due to his advice.



I don't see that approach here. People, like @Smotzer , are suggesting methods to make your setup easier to manage, nothing more. We all have different perspectives, If you believe the approaches provided are not best for your pet so be it

aren't most if not all asian arboreals meant to be kept on the damper side?

 

[viper69]

aren't most if not all asian arboreals meant to be kept on the damper side?

Yep. However, the breeder didn't mention that with Poki's to me. Again, I didn't go into depth with him on Poki's just Lvs (back then)

I think the OP is going to do fine.

 

[cold blood]

I got it home and set up its bioactive enclosure,

I always say, there is no way to more easily over-complicate the simple task of tarantula keeping than using a bioactive enclosure.

Bioactive enclosures can work, sure, but they should really only be attempted with a t by people with significant experience with them. The fact is, bioactive enclosures are 100% for you, not the tarantula....that t will gain absolutely zero benefit...none. And they are a lot more work.

Keep in mind, even for species that are moisture dependent, too much moisture is always more dangerous than a little too dry.

, a 12x12x18

Its big, but fast OWs do just fine with extra space. I wouldnt worry too much about the size.

and gave it loads of hiding places,

Yes, but not exactly how the species would prefer. While they are arboreal, in captivity they tend to adopt more of a fossorial lifestyle. Therefore wood leaned in a manner that the t can make a home underneath is what you want...and ideally that area should be surrounded by plants. I would even lean that cork tube more so its not as vertical.

I personally dislike those cork tubes simply because they are a recipe to never see your t...and violaceopes are quite nice to look at. Cork tubes work, ts like them and they are a fine addition, just be aware that they do induce reclusive behavior.

a few live plants,

Which look great.....but lets face facts, in time they will grow and need to be pruned back.....I wouldnt want to be doing landscaping work in a violaceopes enclosure...they are big, very fast and can be very defensive and reactive. Be careful working.

and a heat mat stuck to the outside of the glass

The single worst way to heat a t enclosure...pretty much on par with a heat lamp.

the thermostat is set at 27 as they need slightly higher temps than my room provides.

Your temps arent all that bad...their temp requirements arent that much different from any other tropical species.

. but it still is just sitting on the substrate. does this seem like normal behavior?

They can take a while to acclimate.

I did a bioactive enclosure as its a higher humidity needing species,

Nope, humidity isnt relevant to keeping ts.

Moisture is needed to keep book lungs hydrated, so any moisture in the air one inch above the ground is utterly and completely irrelevant. Only that thin layer above the ground matters ad that can be accomplished in any ambient humidity by simply keeping the sub damp....something you can do VERY simply without having a bioactive enclosure.

the springtails and woodlice will eat off any nasty stuff as they do in the wild to stop mold growth

Yeah, but those things do not require a bioactive enclosure at all, like the t, they merely need damp substrate, like the t.

I will also add, these clean up crews arent necessary.....I keep hundreds of ts for decades now and I have never used clean up crews.....theyre nice, sure, but they are also completely unnecessary...ts arent inherently dirty animals and the minimal cleaning requirement of the keeper are enough to keep pests at bay.

In a well kept enclosure, there shouldnt be much nasty stuff and mold, well molds happen and are of virtually no concern and can really just be picked out or left to run its course....mold isnt the danger we were led to believe back in the day unless it gets really bad...but small bits of mold are pretty normal and not a real concern at al.

There are plenty of people that do keep in bioactives and quite a few of the notable youtubers do this too and have a lot of success with it. It might be overkill but I like the look of them and it does help with the humidity levels how ever you look at it.

Nope, as I explained above, all you need is damp sub, and you dont need a bioactive anything to maintain damp sub....just add water.

But all of the research i have done on this species in particular say they have more advanced husbandry requirements, slightly warmer enclosures and higher humidity to get the best out of them.

Yeah, I would question the places you have researched....yeah they are an advanced species, but not because they have some differing requirements...their care is pretty much exactly the same as any asian tarantula.

I have a heat mat on the side of the enclosure with the thermostat prob sat right on top of it so it will not get any higher than 27. If it turns out heating is a waste of time i'll just pull it off and keep it the same as all my other T's. But id rather do my best for her as shes my first O. violaceopes.

I would pull it, in winter if you need supplemental heat, there are much better ways to go about it....like heating the room or creating a micro-climate (which can be done with a heat pad)...but as for now your summer temps are just fine.

The main thing to know about heat pads is that they should never be in direct contact with an enclosure...direct heat bad.

I dont tend to mist as i keep the bioactives with water in the bottom with the clay balls

These clay ball false bottoms should never be used with ts, especially ones that dig as the t will eventually dig down to those clay balls.

Her water bowl is up near one of the cork hides. and as she hasnt climbed yet,

As I mentioned, in captivity they have a proclivity for being more fossorial, so you really want the water dish where the t is going to spend most of its time, which is on the ground. My violaceopes really only go up to hunt.

Baring in mind temps are generally lower here in the U.K. than over there in Texas.

But keep in mind, half the US, is more like you experience than texas....I am from Wisconsin, its definitely colder here than it is by you, we aint all from Texas here...lol.

I run a space heater basically from October to June.

Heat lamps for T’s I agree is dangerous but what exactly is dangerous about what I’m doing?

You have it in direct contact with the enclosure.

Bioactive setups when done correctly work

Just because they can be made to work doesnt in any way mean they are the best method or even that they are beneficial.

My main thing is, do you want to keep a bunch of plants and critters, or did you set the thing up to keep a tarantula? For me its a matter of prioritizing what you want....and I would bet the most important thing here to you is also the tarantula...so why focus on so many other little things that dont in any way help that t? Again, entirely your choice, I am just pointing out certain things and I do this because a lot of people, especially new keepers or those coming from other hobbies like the dart frog community, seem to enter this hobby with the misconception that bioactive is better for the tarantula.

When I first started I had bioactive dreams, experience has led me far away from those old notions......seriously, you couldnt pay me to go bioactive.

by notable youtubers I’m talking those like yourself that have been in the hobby for years and keep a whole manner of T’s, such as Dave’s beasties, tarantula collective and Tom’s big spiders. Surely being able to see the quality of the care is worth something?

Sounds logical...but its not. Here is why watching care vids from these guys can actuallly be worthless.

Unless you are already experienced, how on earth will you know that what you are being shown is correct? The biggest issue is that really only experienced keepers can watch these you tubers and know....newer keepers are just led along their path, right or wrong...and many do show and teach very poor husbandry....and the more you watch, the more confident you get in these tubers....its incredible the amount of fixing we have to do for new keepers who come here after previously relying on some you tuber.

There are a couple good you tubers like Tom Moran, but in reality, most will not show you the right or even the best ways to do things. If you gotta you tube ts, go with Tom, please.

its all about finding out what works and what can be made better.

Yes, so true....and thats why this site is valuable, because here you get advice from people who are actual long time experienced keepers, precisely the kind of people that have the experience to help new keepers sift through all the foibles.....we did the trial and error so new keepers don't have to.

Think about it, an electrician or a surgeon doesnt go about learning through trial and error, they utilize the experiences of all those before them (and this can be said for many if not most things)....why should t keeping be any different.

Mate it will not cook itself on 27 degrees of glass,

Well, it sure can, here's why/how.

As mentioned earlier, ts are drawn to heat like a moth to a flame....and like the moth, they can be drawn to their detriment (and like the moth gaining no advantage from the flame, the t gains no real advantage from a hot spot). A t wont sit on a warm spot and move off when its warm like a reptile might, instead they will literally sit on a mat until they are past the point of no return.

Omothymus violaceopes EWLs

• cold blood
• Feb 12, 2020

violaceopes...just getting ready to molt to EWLs...a few are already there

violaceopes

• cold blood
• Nov 15, 2019
• 3
• lampropelma violaceopes omothymus omothymus violaceopes singapore blue tarantula sling violaceopes

Just molting to second instar...ready to go very soon!

 

[Smotzer]

I always say, there is no way to more easily over-complicate the simple task of tarantula keeping than using a bioactive enclosure.

Bioactive enclosures can work, sure, but they should really only be attempted with a t by people with significant experience with them. The fact is, bioactive enclosures are 100% for you, not the tarantula....that t will gain absolutely zero benefit...none. And they are a lot more work.

Keep in mind, even for species that are moisture dependent, too much moisture is always more dangerous than a little too dry.

Its big, but fast OWs do just fine with extra space. I wouldnt worry too much about the size.

Yes, but not exactly how the species would prefer. While they are arboreal, in captivity they tend to adopt more of a fossorial lifestyle. Therefore wood leaned in a manner that the t can make a home underneath is what you want...and ideally that area should be surrounded by plants. I would even lean that cork tube more so its not as vertical.

I personally dislike those cork tubes simply because they are a recipe to never see your t...and violaceopes are quite nice to look at. Cork tubes work, ts like them and they are a fine addition, just be aware that they do induce reclusive behavior.


Which look great.....but lets face facts, in time they will grow and need to be pruned back.....I wouldnt want to be doing landscaping work in a violaceopes enclosure...they are big, very fast and can be very defensive and reactive. Be careful working.

The single worst way to heat a t enclosure...pretty much on par with a heat lamp.

Your temps arent all that bad...their temp requirements arent that much different from any other tropical species.

They can take a while to acclimate.

Nope, humidity isnt relevant to keeping ts.

Moisture is needed to keep book lungs hydrated, so any moisture in the air one inch above the ground is utterly and completely irrelevant. Only that thin layer above the ground matters ad that can be accomplished in any ambient humidity by simply keeping the sub damp....something you can do VERY simply without having a bioactive enclosure.


Yeah, but those things do not require a bioactive enclosure at all, like the t, they merely need damp substrate, like the t.

I will also add, these clean up crews arent necessary.....I keep hundreds of ts for decades now and I have never used clean up crews.....theyre nice, sure, but they are also completely unnecessary...ts arent inherently dirty animals and the minimal cleaning requirement of the keeper are enough to keep pests at bay.

In a well kept enclosure, there shouldnt be much nasty stuff and mold, well molds happen and are of virtually no concern and can really just be picked out or left to run its course....mold isnt the danger we were led to believe back in the day unless it gets really bad...but small bits of mold are pretty normal and not a real concern at al.

Nope, as I explained above, all you need is damp sub, and you dont need a bioactive anything to maintain damp sub....just add water.

Yeah, I would question the places you have researched....yeah they are an advanced species, but not because they have some differing requirements...their care is pretty much exactly the same as any asian tarantula.


I would pull it, in winter if you need supplemental heat, there are much better ways to go about it....like heating the room or creating a micro-climate (which can be done with a heat pad)...but as for now your summer temps are just fine.

The main thing to know about heat pads is that they should never be in direct contact with an enclosure...direct heat bad.

These clay ball false bottoms should never be used with ts, especially ones that dig as the t will eventually dig down to those clay balls.

As I mentioned, in captivity they have a proclivity for being more fossorial, so you really want the water dish where the t is going to spend most of its time, which is on the ground. My violaceopes really only go up to hunt.


But keep in mind, half the US, is more like you experience than texas....I am from Wisconsin, its definitely colder here than it is by you, we aint all from Texas here...lol.

I run a space heater basically from October to June.


You have it in direct contact with the enclosure.

Just because they can be made to work doesnt in any way mean they are the best method or even that they are beneficial.

My main thing is, do you want to keep a bunch of plants and critters, or did you set the thing up to keep a tarantula? For me its a matter of prioritizing what you want....and I would bet the most important thing here to you is also the tarantula...so why focus on so many other little things that dont in any way help that t? Again, entirely your choice, I am just pointing out certain things and I do this because a lot of people, especially new keepers or those coming from other hobbies like the dart frog community, seem to enter this hobby with the misconception that bioactive is better for the tarantula.

When I first started I had bioactive dreams, experience has led me far away from those old notions......seriously, you couldnt pay me to go bioactive.

Sounds logical...but its not. Here is why watching care vids from these guys can actuallly be worthless.

Unless you are already experienced, how on earth will you know that what you are being shown is correct? The biggest issue is that really only experienced keepers can watch these you tubers and know....newer keepers are just led along their path, right or wrong...and many do show and teach very poor husbandry....and the more you watch, the more confident you get in these tubers....its incredible the amount of fixing we have to do for new keepers who come here after previously relying on some you tuber.

There are a couple good you tubers like Tom Moran, but in reality, most will not show you the right or even the best ways to do things. If you gotta you tube ts, go with Tom, please.

Yes, so true....and thats why this site is valuable, because here you get advice from people who are actual long time experienced keepers, precisely the kind of people that have the experience to help new keepers sift through all the foibles.....we did the trial and error so new keepers don't have to.

Think about it, an electrician or a surgeon doesnt go about learning through trial and error, they utilize the experiences of all those before them (and this can be said for many if not most things)....why should t keeping be any different.


Well, it sure can, here's why/how.

As mentioned earlier, ts are drawn to heat like a moth to a flame....and like the moth, they can be drawn to their detriment (and like the moth gaining no advantage from the flame, the t gains no real advantage from a hot spot). A t wont sit on a warm spot and move off when its warm like a reptile might, instead they will literally sit on a mat until they are past the point of no return.

Omothymus violaceopes EWLs

• cold blood
• Feb 12, 2020

violaceopes...just getting ready to molt to EWLs...a few are already there

violaceopes

• cold blood
• Nov 15, 2019
• 3
• lampropelma violaceopes omothymus omothymus violaceopes singapore blue tarantula sling violaceopes

Just molting to second instar...ready to go very soon!

This deserves multiple awards, not a single thing Id think anyone could disagree with in this. Spot on all the way through!

 

[DarkSheepoftheFam]

I always say, there is no way to more easily over-complicate the simple task of tarantula keeping than using a bioactive enclosure.

Bioactive enclosures can work, sure, but they should really only be attempted with a t by people with significant experience with them. The fact is, bioactive enclosures are 100% for you, not the tarantula....that t will gain absolutely zero benefit...none. And they are a lot more work.

Keep in mind, even for species that are moisture dependent, too much moisture is always more dangerous than a little too dry.

Its big, but fast OWs do just fine with extra space. I wouldnt worry too much about the size.

Yes, but not exactly how the species would prefer. While they are arboreal, in captivity they tend to adopt more of a fossorial lifestyle. Therefore wood leaned in a manner that the t can make a home underneath is what you want...and ideally that area should be surrounded by plants. I would even lean that cork tube more so its not as vertical.

I personally dislike those cork tubes simply because they are a recipe to never see your t...and violaceopes are quite nice to look at. Cork tubes work, ts like them and they are a fine addition, just be aware that they do induce reclusive behavior.


Which look great.....but lets face facts, in time they will grow and need to be pruned back.....I wouldnt want to be doing landscaping work in a violaceopes enclosure...they are big, very fast and can be very defensive and reactive. Be careful working.

The single worst way to heat a t enclosure...pretty much on par with a heat lamp.

Your temps arent all that bad...their temp requirements arent that much different from any other tropical species.

They can take a while to acclimate.

Nope, humidity isnt relevant to keeping ts.

Moisture is needed to keep book lungs hydrated, so any moisture in the air one inch above the ground is utterly and completely irrelevant. Only that thin layer above the ground matters ad that can be accomplished in any ambient humidity by simply keeping the sub damp....something you can do VERY simply without having a bioactive enclosure.


Yeah, but those things do not require a bioactive enclosure at all, like the t, they merely need damp substrate, like the t.

I will also add, these clean up crews arent necessary.....I keep hundreds of ts for decades now and I have never used clean up crews.....theyre nice, sure, but they are also completely unnecessary...ts arent inherently dirty animals and the minimal cleaning requirement of the keeper are enough to keep pests at bay.

In a well kept enclosure, there shouldnt be much nasty stuff and mold, well molds happen and are of virtually no concern and can really just be picked out or left to run its course....mold isnt the danger we were led to believe back in the day unless it gets really bad...but small bits of mold are pretty normal and not a real concern at al.

Nope, as I explained above, all you need is damp sub, and you dont need a bioactive anything to maintain damp sub....just add water.

Yeah, I would question the places you have researched....yeah they are an advanced species, but not because they have some differing requirements...their care is pretty much exactly the same as any asian tarantula.


I would pull it, in winter if you need supplemental heat, there are much better ways to go about it....like heating the room or creating a micro-climate (which can be done with a heat pad)...but as for now your summer temps are just fine.

The main thing to know about heat pads is that they should never be in direct contact with an enclosure...direct heat bad.

These clay ball false bottoms should never be used with ts, especially ones that dig as the t will eventually dig down to those clay balls.

As I mentioned, in captivity they have a proclivity for being more fossorial, so you really want the water dish where the t is going to spend most of its time, which is on the ground. My violaceopes really only go up to hunt.


But keep in mind, half the US, is more like you experience than texas....I am from Wisconsin, its definitely colder here than it is by you, we aint all from Texas here...lol.

I run a space heater basically from October to June.


You have it in direct contact with the enclosure.

Just because they can be made to work doesnt in any way mean they are the best method or even that they are beneficial.

My main thing is, do you want to keep a bunch of plants and critters, or did you set the thing up to keep a tarantula? For me its a matter of prioritizing what you want....and I would bet the most important thing here to you is also the tarantula...so why focus on so many other little things that dont in any way help that t? Again, entirely your choice, I am just pointing out certain things and I do this because a lot of people, especially new keepers or those coming from other hobbies like the dart frog community, seem to enter this hobby with the misconception that bioactive is better for the tarantula.

When I first started I had bioactive dreams, experience has led me far away from those old notions......seriously, you couldnt pay me to go bioactive.

Sounds logical...but its not. Here is why watching care vids from these guys can actuallly be worthless.

Unless you are already experienced, how on earth will you know that what you are being shown is correct? The biggest issue is that really only experienced keepers can watch these you tubers and know....newer keepers are just led along their path, right or wrong...and many do show and teach very poor husbandry....and the more you watch, the more confident you get in these tubers....its incredible the amount of fixing we have to do for new keepers who come here after previously relying on some you tuber.

There are a couple good you tubers like Tom Moran, but in reality, most will not show you the right or even the best ways to do things. If you gotta you tube ts, go with Tom, please.

Yes, so true....and thats why this site is valuable, because here you get advice from people who are actual long time experienced keepers, precisely the kind of people that have the experience to help new keepers sift through all the foibles.....we did the trial and error so new keepers don't have to.

Think about it, an electrician or a surgeon doesnt go about learning through trial and error, they utilize the experiences of all those before them (and this can be said for many if not most things)....why should t keeping be any different.


Well, it sure can, here's why/how.

As mentioned earlier, ts are drawn to heat like a moth to a flame....and like the moth, they can be drawn to their detriment (and like the moth gaining no advantage from the flame, the t gains no real advantage from a hot spot). A t wont sit on a warm spot and move off when its warm like a reptile might, instead they will literally sit on a mat until they are past the point of no return.

Omothymus violaceopes EWLs

• cold blood
• Feb 12, 2020

violaceopes...just getting ready to molt to EWLs...a few are already there

violaceopes

• cold blood
• Nov 15, 2019
• 3
• lampropelma violaceopes omothymus omothymus violaceopes singapore blue tarantula sling violaceopes

Just molting to second instar...ready to go very soon!

cheers dude that was actually very insightful, i hate to think how long that actually took to type out and quote. well i had already made the executive decision to pull the heat pad a few hours ago. i took some readings in the room and where i have her placed its around the 24 degree mark. im not paying to run a thermostat and heatpad for 3 degrees. sod that noise. The "more fossorial" thing was interesting and would explain the question i originally wanted answering at the start, why is my arboreal T sat on the substrate and has been for nearly 24 hours. every bit of literature i could find about them online fails to mention this key fact. with that in mind i will be changing up how i have her enclosure set out. I am gonna stick with the bio active enclosure for now and see how it goes with it. if i need to do some maintenance on her plants then i will tackle it as and when.
With the youtubers, i have so far managed to identify some that are full of <edit> and dont for me keep their t's correctly. exotics lair? i think its called? the kid that gets a million views but all his T's seem really stressed out and reactive. Its interesting viewing but not helpful in my opinion. I like tom moran, and a few others. I have to say i like daves beasties, hes a big proponent of the bio setups but he never has any issues at all with rehouses, nice and calm approach. I dont claim to be an expert on T's and id be worried about anyone that thought they knew it all. But i am willing to learn and pick up tips and tricks any way i can. so far, i have had no unexpected deaths, no bites, no close calls and many rehouses. I have to be at least doing something right. Granted I am no where near into the amount of T's kept as yourself, i do not have the room or time for that many with everything else i keep, but im approaching 2 dozen. This one was the first time i was actually unsure of what was going on. Had i known about the fossorial thing I wouldnt have even batted an eyelid.

Thanks for your time and effort man

I would like to thank several of you for your input on the topic. and im sorry if i came across a little standoffish. A few of the reponses were a bit blunt and maybe didnt come across the best that it got my back up a little. But i know you had the T's best interest at heart. I still dont necessarily agree with everything that was said, I have listened to the feedback and i may make a few minor adjustments.... To the enclosure not my attitude. thats here for life

 

[sasker]

i like daves beasties, hes a big proponent of the bio setups but he never has any issues at all with rehouses, nice and calm approach.

His rehouses are indeed very useful to watch, and his clips are quite informative.

A few of the reponses were a bit blunt and maybe didnt come across the best that it got my back up a little.

That's the thing. People are people. They may not always say things the way we like to hear them, but they may offer good advice. It helps to look past the method of delivery of the advice when you assume that what is said is meant to help you. People rarely are just unpleasant for the sake of being unpleasant on this platform. And even if they are, this positive approach helps you not to become affected negatively.

 

[Marlana]

I personally love Dave’s little beasties! His enclosures look fantastic. He’s so calm and collected. He doesn’t do everything in arachnoboards fashion but it works for him. And I don’t think there’s anything wrong with his bio active set ups.

I sometimes use supplemental heat…there I said it. Yes, most species don’t need it. Really only one species I’ve raised, I’ve found benefits from more heat. Personally I’ve found T.seladonia to do much better with higher temps and more moisture than other Aviculariinae. I took a big risk doing it this way as literally no one told me to. The information is seriously lacking but I knew most of the breeders keeping this species have their T rooms heated. And I researched temps and rainfall where it’s from. Then I did trial and error. A lot of observation and guess work, which obviously takes experience. I couldn’t have done this a month or two into the hobby. I probably would have killed them.

With that being said I don’t have this species and know little about it. I couldn’t tell you if it’s one of the rare species who does benefit from higher temps. I’d rely on the people who have successfully kept multiple. But I don’t believe all species are so simple as ‘room temp is fine’.

I also use springtails don’t tell.

 

[DarkSheepoftheFam]

I personally love Dave’s little beasties! His enclosures look fantastic. He’s so calm and collected. He doesn’t do everything in arachnoboards fashion but it works for him. And I don’t think there’s anything wrong with his bio active set ups.

I sometimes use supplemental heat…there I said it. Yes, most species don’t need it. Really only one species I’ve raised, I’ve found benefits from more heat. Personally I’ve found T.seladonia to do much better with higher temps and more moisture than other Aviculariinae. I took a big risk doing it this way as literally no one told me to. The information is seriously lacking but I knew most of the breeders keeping this species have their T rooms heated. And I researched temps and rainfall where it’s from. Then I did trial and error. A lot of observation and guess work, which obviously takes experience. I couldn’t have done this a month or two into the hobby. I probably would have killed them.

With that being said I don’t have this species and know little about it. I couldn’t tell you if it’s one of the rare species who does benefit from higher temps. I’d rely on the people who have successfully kept multiple. But I don’t believe all species are so simple as ‘room temp is fine’.

I also use springtails don’t tell.

well that was my understanding. There are a few species that do require slightly higher temps and humidity. And from everything I read Singapore blues are one of them. Singapore in itself is a fairly hot a humid country. I knownot all T’s like the conditions they have in their country of origin and will burrow or find cross winds or shade to reduce the heat etc, but you can’t get away from the fact that it’s still mid to high 20’s in the shade in that country. They seem to thrive there so why not recreate as much as we can there natural habitat. I think sometimes as owners there is an element of “well this works for everything else I own so why won’t it work for this” and a bit of laziness with regards to having everything on the same substrate, same temps and humidity.
thank you for your response. It’s nice to hear I’m not alone in my thought process

 

[Jumbie Spider]

I also use springtails don’t tell.

Why would you even waste your time with something that self propagates, requires zero maintenance, takes care of leftover food and keeps fungus gnats away, when you could just let it sit and develop mites on its own?
/ exits through the back door.

 

[DarkSheepoftheFam]

I would have went with a smaller setup.

I got this photo of her yesterday, shes a good 5 inches. I'm not sure she would have wanted a smaller set up