Housing & welfare assistance for G.rosea...

[Troyantula]

Hello Arachnoboardians!
I find myself in need of expert advice for a new friend I recently acquired, the following pictures will show my T as I received it four days ago, I have been told it's lived in this enclosure for atleast four months after being purchased in a pet store in Edmonton, AB. Now, I accidentally hijacked another thread where I received several excellent suggestions but came to realize I need more help, so I have created this thread(hopefully in the right place) for the sole purpose of improving the life of my new buddy...

I have been told it is a Grammostola rosea but I have no idea of age, nor gender, I imagine it is a wild capture but this is merely conjecture...

I have also been told that the enclosure the previous owner setup, no doubt with the assistance of the pet store that sold them everything, is lacking and could actually be dangerous for a terrestrial that seems to enjoy climbing...

I have ordered "The Tarantula Keepers Guide" but it won't arrive for a few days yet and I'd prefer not to wait if there is any risk at all to this fantastic creature. I am open to any suggestions/tips or supplemental information that will improve the quality of life for this T and subsequently make me a better keeper...
I "Thank you!" for taking the time to help and appreciate any and all assistance offered

 

[Ungoliant]

I find myself in need of expert advice for a new friend I recently acquired, the following pictures will show my T as I received it four days ago, I have been told it's lived in this enclosure for atleast four months after being purchased in a pet store in Edmonton, AB. Now, I accidentally hijacked another thread where I received several excellent suggestions but came to realize I need more help, so I have created this thread(hopefully in the right place) for the sole purpose of improving the life of my new buddy...

Most of this has already been covered in the other thread, but to recap:

Enclosure

Since this is a terrestrial species, you will want to limit vertical space (the distance between the top of the substrate and the lid) in order to prevent injuries from falls. (Bulky terrestrial tarantulas are vulnerable to abdominal ruptures from falls, which are often fatal.) The general consensus on what is a safe distance is no more than 1.5 times the diagonal leg span (DLS) of your tarantula. (So if you have a 6" spider, the vertical space should not exceed 9".)

In an aquarium this tall, that will require a fair amount of substrate. You may find it more economical to use a low-profile enclosure.

Additionally, you will want to remove any hard or sharp objects from the enclosure, especially around the perimeter, where a climbing tarantula is most likely to land after a fall.

Try to avoid a screen lid, as a climbing tarantula might get its tarsal claws stuck, resulting in an amputation or fall.

Horizontal space should be at least 2-3 times the DLS in any direction. Having excessive horizontal space is not harmful (provided you have proper cage furnishings); it's just unnecessary.

As far as the substrate itself is concerned, the most commonly used options are coconut fiber (or coir), topsoil, peat, or some combination thereof. It doesn't really matter what you pick, since this species likes it dry anyway. The important thing is to make sure that whatever you use does not contain any pesticides, fungicides, fertilizers, or other such additives. (Fortunately, the stuff without additives tends to be the cheaper stuff.)

The hide is an OK size, although I would bury most of it under the substrate so that just the entrance sticks out. She'll excavate what she wants. (They prefer small, cozy hides and will readily excavate if they need more space.)

Temperature, Humidity, and Water

There is no need to measure temperature or humidity. This species tolerates a wide range of temperature. If you are comfortable without stripping or wearing a coat, the tarantula is fine.

Do not use a heat lamp, as this will desiccate your tarantula. Even a regular light in the enclosure should be avoided, as it gives off some heat, and tarantulas prefer darkness anyway.

As mentioned above, this species likes it dry, so don't mist the enclosure or moisten the substrate. Instead, make sure the water dish is always full. (You don't need to include a rock or sponge in the water dish. Tarantulas don't drown in their dishes, and anything you add to it may just be a growth medium for bacteria.) It will be more comfortable for the tarantula to drink if the dish is relatively flush with the substrate.

Feeding

This species has a glacial metabolism and is notorious for fasting. How often you will feed depends on the size of the meal, but I would start with something like 2-4 crickets per month. (You read that right.)

Molting

Like all arthropods, tarantulas must periodically molt to grow. However, unlike most other spiders, female tarantulas continue to molt as adults.

The older and larger your tarantula gets, the longer it will go between molting, the longer the pre-molt period will be, and the longer it takes to molt and recover.

The most obvious sign of pre-molt is lack of appetite (although Grammostola rosea/porteri may fast for no obvious reason). They may also seal themselves into their hides. (This is a do not disturb sign. Leave the tarantula alone.) Within 24 hours of molting, they may construct a molting mat.

If you see your tarantula flipped onto its back or lying on its side, do not disturb it. It is not dead. It is just molting.

It is also best not to disturb a tarantula right after it molts, as it is soft and vulnerable. Do not feed a tarantula that has molted until its fangs turn black. (They start out white, then turn red, and then gradually darken from a ruddy brown to black.) This will probably take a couple of weeks for a tarantula of the size you have.

This video goes over the molting process.

I have been told it is a Grammostola rosea but I have no idea of age, nor gender, I imagine it is a wild capture but this is merely conjecture...

There is no way to know the age, but a Grammostola rosea of that size is at least several years old, as this is a slow-growing species. Females can live for decades.

As for the gender, the best way to sex it is to examine the exuviae (shed exoskeleton) after it molts. However, we can at least immediately confirm that it is not a mature male if you post a picture of the ends of the pedipalps (the first pair of appendages near the head). Mature males have palpal bulbs on the ends of their palps. Additionally, mature males of this species have tibial hooks under their front legs (visible from a side angle).

 

[Troyantula]

Thank you very much, lots to absorb there, I have already set a plan in motion to change the enclosure to one more fitting for this species and will try to take pics along the way...

 

[Troyantula]

Before I get to invested in modifications on the enclosure, can anyone see any potential pitfalls of using the same aquarium in the posted pics but turned on its side, I can make it into a front door accessible terrarium, using two pieces of lexan or plexi? It would lower the overall height while increasing the floor plan, so to speak...

 

[Troyantula]

I watched the vid embedded in Ungoliant's post and I believe my T may be pre-molt, it's flicked most of its hair's off and it's abdomen has darkened considerably over the last few days... I have also observed it lay down a patch of webbing which it sits on more often then not lately... So, my question now is do I disturb her enclosure and make the drastic changes that have been prescribed or do I leave it until after the most?

 

[sdsnybny]

The last pic you posted makes it look like a Mature male?? The pedi palps look very thick. Can you get a better close up pic? check for emboli on the tips of the palps.
If its nearing a molt I wouldn't change anything till afterwards.

 

[boina]

The last pic you posted makes it look like a Mature male?? The pedi palps look very thick. Can you get a better close up pic? check for emboli on the tips of the palps.
If its nearing a molt I wouldn't change anything till afterwards.

Yes, I see what you are seing! Didn't notice it at first, but it does look very much like a mature male - which would also explain the excessive climbing...

OP, can you get a pic of the front end of your tarantula focussed on the pedipalps?

 

[Anoplogaster]

Agreed. If you believe it's in premolt, I would hold off any disturbances for the time being.

In regards to turning the enclosure on its side, I don't think that is necessary. Seems overly complicated to set it up that way. If you use the same enclosure, I would just double the amount of substrate you currently have it on to get the height where it needs to be.

 

[Troyantula]

Ok, I took a few more photos... to get the last ones I had to gentle touch it with a paint brush and on the third nudge it abruptly turned and threw a threat pose, lively little fellas, lol...
let me know if I need a different angle or something, I'm new to this and actually had to look up tarantula anatomy to know what you ment by palps, so I hope I got a few ok images for you to analyze...

 

[Troyantula]

So I just read an article on sexing T's, it sure looks like a male to me now that I kinda know what I'm looking for... from a keepers perspective how does that effect things?

 

[Ghost56]

Definitely a MM, I was pretty confident early on, but now I'm positive.

 

[Venom1080]

Agreed. Mature male. Don't expect too much longer out of it.

 

[Troyantula]

Well that's a bummer, first T and it's on its way out already? So is it about to molt or just up and die?

 

[sdsnybny]

Although MM's don't successfully molt after maturing the G. porteri/rosea are known to make it through this on occasion. there is a post on here somewhere indicating that a MM made 2 post ultimate molts and lived several more years. That is the rare exception though. Your T has an abdomen that is darkening and is surely going to attempt the feat....good luck.

 

[boina]

Yep, that's a mature male, the last pic is exceptionally clear on that.

That means:
Mature males don't live that long. This, however, is a very long lived species and mature males have been known to live several years. It shouldn't molt - mature males cannot molt out their pedipalps. If they attempt a molt the pedipalps will usually get stuck and either the tarantula dies or at least it loses its pedipalps. The abdomen does not look all that dark to me - you can still clearly see the heart of the tarantula under the skin, so I don't think it will molt very soon. It's hard to say, though, without being able to judge the color progession during the last days. If he does molt he'll need a lot of luck.

 

[Troyantula]

I dont believe in luck... God willing this little fella will molt successfully while maintaining his manhood, lol... how do I determine for certain if He's about to molt or not? I want to fix his enclosure asap but don't want to disrupt whatever he has going on...

 

[Ungoliant]

I dont believe in luck... God willing this little fella will molt successfully while maintaining his manhood, lol... how do I determine for certain if He's about to molt or not? I want to fix his enclosure asap but don't want to disrupt whatever he has going on...

Without knowing more about his recent history (when he last molted, how he normally looks, eats, and behaves), it's hard to be sure.

If he isn't molting, I think it's worth at least making the basic safety changes with regard to height, as he has the instinct to wander and will climb more than the average female or juvenile.

It will be easier and more economical to add more substrate than modify the enclosure.

So I just read an article on sexing T's, it sure looks like a male to me now that I kinda know what I'm looking for... from a keepers perspective how does that effect things?

Otherwise, being a mature male doesn't change much about how you would care for him. Just know that his appetite may not be as strong, and a male usually doesn't live for more than 1-3 years after reaching maturity. (He's a G. rosea, so at least he has longevity going for him.)

I try to see the silver lining: a mature male can still be a good pet and a good introduction to tarantulas. (I wouldn't deliberately seek one out, but if you end up with one, it's not the worst thing in the world.)

 

[Troyantula]

Very good, thank you sir... I will commence with the renovations and post when complete...

 

[Leila]

My G. porteri matured a couple months before I got him. (That would make him 9 months matured.) He is still alive and kicking, full of sass and cuteness.

 

[Troyantula]

Excellent! That's good to hear, I'm trying to track down more background information on this guy just for my own peace of mind but I'm very hopeful that he may have quite some time left in him but no matter how it turns out I'm just thankful to be able to learn more about these amazing little critters