Heat Mat for ball python help!

[Alex T Newbie]

Hi Everyone! I have a ball python in a 60-gallon tank with 1/2 inches of coco fiber substrate. I recently purchased a Zilla reptile mat for 50-60 gallon tanks (8 by 20 inches), but it isn't getting hotter than 80 degrees. Any suggestions on how to get the hot part of the tank to be 90? Or are there any specifically reptile forums I could post this to?

 

[kingshockey]

if you look up ball python forums online you can find good forums to get all the info you need 20 years ago when i kept snakes i would have just used a good basking lamp on one side of the tank above a good branch with the heat mat on opposite side of tank to let it find the temps it wanted etc but i am pretty sure methods have changed etc

 

[Tarantuland]

I use a basking lamp and heat mat on one side then have a humid hide on the other and water dish in the middle so there is a temperature gradient. Also if you don't have a heat mat connected to a thermostat you probably should do that. I found the under the tank heat mat wasn't enough though so I added a 25 watt bulb, but I have only a baby snake in a 10 gallon. You'll probably want a 50 watt light for a 60 gallon tank

 

[Sterls]

When I kept ball pythons in aquariums I also had to use an over tank light to heat it, in addition to the belly heat.

Make sure the belly heat is hooked up to a thermostat - you don't want burns. Take not, thermostat, NOT thermometer. It should be controlled by a probe.

 

[viper69]

Hi Everyone! I have a ball python in a 60-gallon tank with 1/2 inches of coco fiber substrate. I recently purchased a Zilla reptile mat for 50-60 gallon tanks (8 by 20 inches), but it isn't getting hotter than 80 degrees. Any suggestions on how to get the hot part of the tank to be 90? Or are there any specifically reptile forums I could post this to?

I’ve never had my BPs over 80-83. No health issues.

Get a RHP, head over to BP forum- google

 

[The Snark]

A question, especially for you @viper69 . How about some technical info? What is the best heat source(s) for these, and other animals? Conduction, convection, radiation, a combination of the three, upper and lower temperature maximums - minimums, how tight a tolerance on that envelope, and how important is ambient humidity in this temperature control scenario?

I was just rolling around in my head this aspect of keeping animals and the hit and miss guesswork that is often involved. Making heat sources in the various forms in a cake walk, Controls down to one or two degree envelopes are easy. It's also easy to incorporate a humidistat into the system. I mean, building an infant ICU incubator with +/- 1 degree tolerance regulated by a humidity control and spectrum of light source as for bilirubin treatment would be easy to design. Something I'd enjoy playing with in my idle idyll hours. Also something just about any keeper could bang together with generic parts from various readlly available on line suppliers.

 

[Sterls]

A question, especially for you @viper69 . How about some technical info? What is the best heat source(s) for these, and other animals? Conduction, convection, radiation, a combination of the three, upper and lower temperature maximums - minimums, how tight a tolerance on that envelope, and how important is ambient humidity in this temperature control scenario?

I was just rolling around in my head this aspect of keeping animals and the hit and miss guesswork that is often involved. Making heat sources in the various forms in a cake walk, Controls down to one or two degree envelopes are easy. It's also easy to incorporate a humidistat into the system. I mean, building an infant ICU incubator with +/- 1 degree tolerance regulated by a humidity control and spectrum of light source as for bilirubin treatment would be easy to design. Something I'd enjoy playing with in my idle idyll hours. Also something just about any keeper could bang together with generic parts from various readlly available on line suppliers.

Best heat source is commonly considered RHPs, or radiant heat panels. They're the safest from a fire-risk aspect, and aren't supposed to be able to burn your animals. I touched mine once, and while it wasn't comfortable, so long as it's mounted properly I don't see how an animal could burn itself. Heat tape is also a very good option, I've used the same strips I originally bought for a decade with absolutely no issues. As far as I'm concerned, RHPs (radiation) for over-head heat and heat tape (conduction) for belly heat are the best options around. A lot of people will say this or that animal needs over or under heat more, but really, as long as it's getting warm - it works.

The temperature and humidity, honestly, people obsess over it too much, at least with ball pythons ime. My hot spots are usually around 90, give or take a few degrees. Humidity is maintained pretty well with a large water bowl for the most part, as long as you have a good enclosure (no screen top). I'll mist them sometimes but I'd be lying if I said I didn't neglect it at times too. Shed time? Mist. Forget? Mine usually still shed just fine, even considering the dry air where I live.

Ball pythons are very tolerant, their envelope is wide. That's not to say there isn't an optimal care range, but they won't perish if you don't get everything perfect.

I agree these systems are easy if you know what you're doing, and it doesn't take much to learn. Especially if you invest in good thermostats early on (ie, not crap from petsmart). The keepers that have the most issues are usually only using the cheapest items available at the local pet store.

 

[The Snark]

Best heat source is commonly considered RHPs, or radiant heat panels.

Okay, right out of the gate, one huge problem. How many of these infrared heat source manufacturers have the full spectrum of their products scientifically analyzed? Have strict controls on the spectrum these heaters produce? Your highly recommended wonderful soothing heat source that happens to emit in the wrong wavelength can do an extreme amount of damage while you and your animal feel little or nothing is wrong. The near infrared danger spectrum can cook you or your animal while you feel nothing. LED sources can compound this problem. Better yet, many of these heat sources find their origins in mass production low education factories in places like China, are repackaged and sold as the best foofy you can buy at your local reputable pet supply store.

I've got a LED laser pointer next to me that the factory saved a few cents not putting a filter on. Doing a simple spectrum check reveals the dangerous infrared from this little gadget is several hundred times the safe level.

 

[Sterls]

Okay, right out of the gate, one huge problem. How many of these infrared heat source manufacturers have the full spectrum of their products scientifically analyzed? Have strict controls on the spectrum these heaters produce? Your highly recommended wonderful soothing heat source that happens to emit in the wrong wavelength can do an extreme amount of damage while you and your animal feel little or nothing is wrong. The near infrared danger spectrum can cook you or your animal while you feel nothing. LED sources can compound this problem. Better yet, many of these heat sources find their origins in mass production low education factories in places like China, are repackaged and sold as the best foofy you can buy at your local reputable pet supply store.

I've got a LED laser pointer next to me that the factory saved a few cents not putting a filter on. Doing a simple spectrum check reveals the dangerous infrared from this little gadget is several hundred times the safe level.

Should have added, with RHPs, Pro Products is the only brand I trust. Obviously there is always some risk, but they have the best reputation for a reason. UL, cUL, and CEU certified. Pretty sure they're made in the states. You can't just buy them anywhere, you have to go directly to them, and talk to a representative. Very old school that way. They take every enclosure into account before letting you buy one. They aren't cheap, and that's for a reason. They have a lifetime warranty on the housing and 15 year on the heating element.

I agree, cheaper RHPs pose a miriad or potential and unknown risks.

 

[Malum Argenteum]

Yes, the ProHeat panels, as well as Reptile Basics panels, have a few decades of very widespread use among serious herp keepers with no such problems reported. Both are made in the US.

 

[Sterls]

Yes, the ProHeat panels, as well as Reptile Basics panels, have a few decades of very widespread use among serious herp keepers with no such problems reported. Both are made in the US.

I dunno, I've heard some sketchy shit from Reptile Basics panels on other forums. Cheaping out is cheaping out.

 

[The Snark]

Cheaping out is cheaping out.

THIS. Thanks to this modern age, select one of the following.
1. Same quality but thanks to mass media gossip a bad reputation is floating around.
2. Quality of manufacturing methods has been reduced. Temporary or permanent?
3. Quality of materials has been reduced. Temporary or permanent?
4. Manufacturer is farming out production to a third party.
5. Bogus product with identical appearance and packaging.

I've got 4 circuit boards here. Three were normally sold at $14 and were on sale for $9. One cost $1.50. All are identical under the magnifying glass. One of the $9 ones is dead from word go. The other three, from Malaysia but one undoubtedly made in China work fine. Explain.

 

[Malum Argenteum]

I dunno, I've heard some sketchy shit from Reptile Basics panels on other forums.

Regarding the wrong wavelength burning issue? Because that is (was, anyway) what is under discussion.

If we're going to discuss general quality decline in all electrical products, well then I agree about most such products in general, but that doesn't get us anywhere with trying to figure out how this person is going to heat their BP (since they aren't going to heat it with a campfire), so it is just a hijack.