Heat Box or Kill Box. Please Advise!

Mashizi

Arachnopeon
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
27
Greeting Arachnoboards,

I’m new to the hobby and have a ½” Mexican Red Knee spiderling. I’ve had it for about six months and it has only eaten three times and only molted once. I currently keep it in a small enclosure on a shelf. In a previous post it was suggested that I find a way to heat the environment. I keep my home at 68 degrees and this may be slowing it’s metabolism.

I’ve put together a heat box using some acrylic, heat tape, two thermostats, and a heat pad. (The second thermostat is a fail safe in case the enclosure gets too warm and the first thermostat does not shut down.) On a previous post I was given very positive feedback for the overall construction.

I have some concerns about getting the temperature right within the heat box. I’ve attached the thermostat thermometers on the inside wall of the box with heat tape and have placed a stand alone thermometer in the bottom center of the box.

I’ve been observing the heat box for about a week. While the thermostats do regulate the environment very effectively, I get different temperatures depending on where the thermometers are placed. Perhaps this is to be expected.

The thermostats on the inner wall may say 77, the temperature in the bottom center may be 79, while the temperature nearer to the heating pad may say 82.

It is my understanding that a healthy temperature range for a Mexican Red Knee spiderling is between 77 to 80 degrees.

Should I be concerned about a small temperature variance?

Would a slightly higher temperature, such as 82 degrees, cause harm?

Any input you can provide would be greatly appreciated!

I certainly don’t want to end up with a cooked spiderling!

Mashizi
 

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Neonblizzard

Arachnomoron
Joined
Mar 3, 2021
Messages
611
I'm not too sure about that contraption if I'm honest. It's great you're thinking about what temperature your fuzzy buddy should be at though. 68 is perfectly fine for a tarantula and is a lot safer than heating the enclosure.

People do like to keep their spiderlings slightly warmer just to help push them along a bit growing, but generally if you're comfortable, they are. If your house was super cold then I'd consider heating, but not at 68f

I would be more worried about just keeping the substrate moist so the little lump doesn't dry out.

Do you have a current picture of the spider? As long as the abdomen is plump it's not a problem that it might not eat regularly. Note: we like scientific names here so we know exactly what spider you have. Brachypelma.... Hamorii? Smithi?

Hope this helps and welcome to the fuzz club
 

Braden

Arachnoknight
Joined
Nov 3, 2019
Messages
193
68F is no big deal, my house temp goes down to 66F and my guys are all good.You could keep it a bit cooler, if you want it's all good. I don't think 82F is a big deal, but it is on the warmer side. You could try putting in more ventilation to let a bit of heat out and keep the substrate on the moist side, it's a good practice for spiderlings in general.

Also, do you mean you've only fed it 3 times in 6 months? That sounds a bit odd for such a small sling.
 

cold blood

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
13,259
It is my understanding that a healthy temperature range for a Mexican Red Knee spiderling is between 77 to 80 degrees.
Yet....
I keep my home at 68 degrees
Since you have been keeping it 68 and its doing fine other than growing slow, your assumed temp range is obviously way off.

Your cooler temps and slow growth will not threaten its life, or prevent it from growing up a perfectly healthy t...in fact the slow growth will actually increase its lifespan a little.

I wouldnt worry about it is I were you...if you are impatient, do like most of us and just get a few more, maybe add a faster growing sling.

but...
Would a slightly higher temperature, such as 82 degrees, cause harm?
No, I find that's about what I consider smack in the max growth rate range for most species, but you do need to be careful how this heat is applied. IMO the safest is to simply heat the room with a space heater.....however I completely get that its unrealistic to do so for just one t.

The simplest methods are often the best, and the simplest method I know is simply to put a heat pad on the side of a decent size aquarium, and place the sling enclosure within that heated tank. You really dont need much and I wouldnt aim for any temp, just a few degrees could make a huge difference unless its just one of those that grow slow no matter what you do....that happens, too..

Patience is just so important to keeping ts long term.
 

Mashizi

Arachnopeon
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
27
I'm not too sure about that contraption if I'm honest. It's great you're thinking about what temperature your fuzzy buddy should be at though. 68 is perfectly fine for a tarantula and is a lot safer than heating the enclosure.

People do like to keep their spiderlings slightly warmer just to help push them along a bit growing, but generally if you're comfortable, they are. If your house was super cold then I'd consider heating, but not at 68f

I would be more worried about just keeping the substrate moist so the little lump doesn't dry out.

Do you have a current picture of the spider? As long as the abdomen is plump it's not a problem that it might not eat regularly. Note: we like scientific names here so we know exactly what spider you have. Brachypelma.... Hamorii? Smithi?

Hope this helps and welcome to the fuzz club
Thanks for welcoming me to the fuzz club! (^_^)/

Here are some current pictures for my Brachypalma Smithi.

I hope it's a female. My family calls her fireball.

Thanks again!

Mashizi

68F is no big deal, my house temp goes down to 66F and my guys are all good.You could keep it a bit cooler, if you want it's all good. I don't think 82F is a big deal, but it is on the warmer side. You could try putting in more ventilation to let a bit of heat out and keep the substrate on the moist side, it's a good practice for spiderlings in general.

Also, do you mean you've only fed it 3 times in 6 months? That sounds a bit odd for such a small sling.
Thanks for your encouragement!

I have attempted to feed it most every week but it has only eaten 3 times.

It first ate after I received it in the mail. It ate again a few weeks later. It didn't eat for most of the winter. It ate about a month ago.

Have tried many different feeders, many sizes, live, chopped, etc.

Thanks!

Yet....


Since you have been keeping it 68 and its doing fine other than growing slow, your assumed temp range is obviously way off.

Your cooler temps and slow growth will not threaten its life, or prevent it from growing up a perfectly healthy t...in fact the slow growth will actually increase its lifespan a little.

I wouldnt worry about it is I were you...if you are impatient, do like most of us and just get a few more, maybe add a faster growing sling.

but...

No, I find that's about what I consider smack in the max growth rate range for most species, but you do need to be careful how this heat is applied. IMO the safest is to simply heat the room with a space heater.....however I completely get that its unrealistic to do so for just one t.

The simplest methods are often the best, and the simplest method I know is simply to put a heat pad on the side of a decent size aquarium, and place the sling enclosure within that heated tank. You really dont need much and I wouldnt aim for any temp, just a few degrees could make a huge difference unless its just one of those that grow slow no matter what you do....that happens, too..

Patience is just so important to keeping ts long term.
Thanks for your insight!

Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be able to purchase any more slings for a while.

It has been my plan to place the current enclosure in the box or tank.

I've followed the instructions found in this video from the Tarantula Collective:

Perhaps the biggest difference being that I have used a plastic box rather than a glass aquarium.

Is a B. Smithi a "grow slow no matter what you do" breed?

Thanks again!

Mashizi
 

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Edan bandoot

Arachnoprince
Joined
Sep 5, 2019
Messages
1,600
Thanks for welcoming me to the fuzz club! (^_^)/

Here are some current pictures for my Brachypalma Smithi.

I hope it's a female. My family calls her fireball.

Thanks again!

Mashizi



Thanks for your encouragement!

I have attempted to feed it most every week but it has only eaten 3 times.

It first ate after I received it in the mail. It ate again a few weeks later. It didn't eat for most of the winter. It ate about a month ago.

Have tried many different feeders, many sizes, live, chopped, etc.

Thanks!



Thanks for your insight!

Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be able to purchase any more slings for a while.

It has been my plan to place the current enclosure in the box or tank.

I've followed the instructions found in this video from the Tarantula Collective:

Perhaps the biggest difference being that I have used a plastic box rather than a glass aquarium.

Is a B. Smithi a "grow slow no matter what you do" breed?

Thanks again!

Mashizi
It will grow slow no matter what
 

Smotzer

ArachnoGod
Arachnosupporter +
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Messages
5,276
You really don’t need additional heat my apartment sits at 68-71 pretty much all the time and there is no reason to heat supplementally. Your slow growth rate is likely primarily due to this being a typical slow growing Brachypelma spp. I run on the cool side in my house and I have never noticed slow growth rate outside of normal variations due to night temps of 68, maybe slower than 82 but not glacial due to high 60’s. Patience is key in this hobby if you only want to keep one or even just a few!
 

Neonblizzard

Arachnomoron
Joined
Mar 3, 2021
Messages
611
Thanks for welcoming me to the fuzz club! (^_^)/

Here are some current pictures for my Brachypalma Smithi.

I hope it's a female. My family calls her fireball.

Thanks again!

Mashizi



Thanks for your encouragement!

I have attempted to feed it most every week but it has only eaten 3 times.

It first ate after I received it in the mail. It ate again a few weeks later. It didn't eat for most of the winter. It ate about a month ago.

Have tried many different feeders, many sizes, live, chopped, etc.

Thanks!



Thanks for your insight!

Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be able to purchase any more slings for a while.

It has been my plan to place the current enclosure in the box or tank.

I've followed the instructions found in this video from the Tarantula Collective:

Perhaps the biggest difference being that I have used a plastic box rather than a glass aquarium.

Is a B. Smithi a "grow slow no matter what you do" breed?

Thanks again!

Mashizi
That sling is still nice and chunky
Thanks for welcoming me to the fuzz club! (^_^)/

Here are some current pictures for my Brachypalma Smithi.

I hope it's a female. My family calls her fireball.

Thanks again!

Mashizi



Thanks for your encouragement!

I have attempted to feed it most every week but it has only eaten 3 times.

It first ate after I received it in the mail. It ate again a few weeks later. It didn't eat for most of the winter. It ate about a month ago.

Have tried many different feeders, many sizes, live, chopped, etc.

Thanks!



Thanks for your insight!

Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be able to purchase any more slings for a while.

It has been my plan to place the current enclosure in the box or tank.

I've followed the instructions found in this video from the Tarantula Collective:

Perhaps the biggest difference being that I have used a plastic box rather than a glass aquarium.

Is a B. Smithi a "grow slow no matter what you do" breed?

Thanks again!

Mashizi
Daw, lovely fireball! They are still nice and chunky, so as long as they have access to clean water it shouldn't be a problem. At that size i usually just use prekilled, because they will scavenge and you can see what they are eating.
That one is clearly eating something because its got a decent chunk on them.
Brachypelma are a quite slow growing species, but there's no rush. Just enjoy your spoodie
 

Mashizi

Arachnopeon
Joined
Apr 11, 2021
Messages
27
Thanks for the tremendous response on this.

You all are a wonderful and supportive community. (^_^)/

I feel I may be getting a few mixed messages so I’d like to take a poll.

Should I:

A: Create a better heat tank.

B: Play it safe. No heat tank.

Your input is incredibly valuable to me.

Thanks again!

Mashizi
 

Spoodfood

Feeder of Spoods
Arachnosupporter
Joined
Jun 4, 2020
Messages
473
Thanks for the tremendous response on this.

You all are a wonderful and supportive community. (^_^)/

I feel I may be getting a few mixed messages so I’d like to take a poll.

Should I:

A: Create a better heat tank.

B: Play it safe. No heat tank.

Your input is incredibly valuable to me.

Thanks again!

Mashizi
It’s up to you. But the supplemental heat is unnecessary. You could use a glass tank with a heat pad and a ventilated lid, and put your enclosure inside but not touching the glass with the heat pad, as I believe someone suggested already. But it really is your choice and 68 F is really not a dangerous temperature for the T. And yes, they do grow slowly regardless.
 

Dry Desert

Arachnoprince
Joined
Mar 9, 2016
Messages
1,551
Thanks for the tremendous response on this.

You all are a wonderful and supportive community. (^_^)/

I feel I may be getting a few mixed messages so I’d like to take a poll.

Should I:

A: Create a better heat tank.

B: Play it safe. No heat tank.

Your input is incredibly valuable to me.

Thanks again!

Mashizi
If you want to increase the temperature a little, probably the best and safest way is to use a glass tank with a heat mat fixed to the side of the tank and fix the thermostat probe directly to the mat, making sure the back of the heat mat has been insulated. Then with a quality thermometer measure the temperature in the centre of the enclosure just above substrate level. Then adjust the thermostat setting to give you the temperature required. The temperature in the enclosure may not correspond to the thermostat setting, disregard the thermostat setting and set for enclosure temperature.
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
17,937
Greeting Arachnoboards,

I’m new to the hobby and have a ½” Mexican Red Knee spiderling. I’ve had it for about six months and it has only eaten three times and only molted once. I currently keep it in a small enclosure on a shelf. In a previous post it was suggested that I find a way to heat the environment. I keep my home at 68 degrees and this may be slowing it’s metabolism.

I’ve put together a heat box using some acrylic, heat tape, two thermostats, and a heat pad. (The second thermostat is a fail safe in case the enclosure gets too warm and the first thermostat does not shut down.) On a previous post I was given very positive feedback for the overall construction.

I have some concerns about getting the temperature right within the heat box. I’ve attached the thermostat thermometers on the inside wall of the box with heat tape and have placed a stand alone thermometer in the bottom center of the box.

I’ve been observing the heat box for about a week. While the thermostats do regulate the environment very effectively, I get different temperatures depending on where the thermometers are placed. Perhaps this is to be expected.

The thermostats on the inner wall may say 77, the temperature in the bottom center may be 79, while the temperature nearer to the heating pad may say 82.

It is my understanding that a healthy temperature range for a Mexican Red Knee spiderling is between 77 to 80 degrees.

Should I be concerned about a small temperature variance?

Would a slightly higher temperature, such as 82 degrees, cause harm?

Any input you can provide would be greatly appreciated!

I certainly don’t want to end up with a cooked spiderling!

Mashizi
1. 68 is certainly a lower temp than in the wild regularly, and is slowing its metabolism - it will do better at the range you mentioned in terms of growth rate, but I've kept mine at 68 night, 72 day with no issues.

2. If you want to increase the heat, don't use a heat directly under the box, that kills Ts.

3. Your best bet is to heat up a tank with a heat mat, and put your Ts box in that.

Always use a thermostat to control temps

IF you heat up another box, like a fish tank, do NOT put your Ts box in there UNTIL you measure the temperature for a day or two so you can see the temps
 
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