Cheap Enclosure <$8.16 (9"x4"x4")

bryverine

Arachnoangel
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Apr 18, 2012
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So I talked earlier about making a cheap enclosure out of a hobby lobby model enclosure and it worked fantastic! I need to learn not to drop Acrylic solvent everywhere :banghead:, but fantastic!
Case 7.99-3.19=4.80
Hasp - 0.92
Hinge - 0.92*2=1.84
Reusable item I chalk up to at least 10 more enclosures (super, ultra underestimate)
Glue - 6.00/10= 0.60

I spent about 3 hours tops making this guy
Total $8.15
PhotoGrid_1454545734585.jpg
Here's my new little beauty:
IMG_20160203_155129.jpg
 

sdsnybny

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Apr 29, 2015
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Nice job, I found that the little soft squeeze bottles don't work worth crap. get yourself a med gauge hypodermic needle and you can control the glue much better.
 

bryverine

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Nice job, I found that the little soft squeeze bottles don't work worth crap. get yourself a med gauge hypodermic needle and you can control the glue much better.
After sloshing it all over the place (the guy at the plastics shop have me a 3oz squeeze bottle :shifty:) I got a 2.5ml syringe and a much smaller gauge needle.
I'm a little disappointed about the spots, but for my first one, I'm calling it good enough! :p
 

sdsnybny

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I did the same thing on my 2.5 gallon conversions, I hated to look at the drops. Second one I did i used the syringe much better results
 

obie

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Did you get the hinges and clasp from hobby lobby also.
 

bryverine

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Did you get the hinges and clasp from hobby lobby also.
Sadly no, I ordered them from McMaster-carr. They had them at a local plastic shop, but they have a $20 minimum policy so I didn't give them my business.
 
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Steve123

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@bryverine, I am very impressed. I've been using a lot of similar enclosures and paying ~$30 per cage, and that's buying 24 at a time. Even these came with a few spilled drops of solvent, the doors warped after a few months, and cracks formed on about 1/3, mostly at glue junctures (?stress cracks). Being able to change design a little depending on needs would be great. The case is from hobby lobby? Once again, thank you for the post.
 

bryverine

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@bryverine, I am very impressed. I've been using a lot of similar enclosures and paying ~$30 per cage, and that's buying 24 at a time. Even these came with a few spilled drops of solvent, the doors warped after a few months, and cracks formed on about 1/3, mostly at glue junctures (?stress cracks). Being able to change design a little depending on needs would be great. The case is from hobby lobby? Once again, thank you for the post.
Sure thing, I'm actually going to make a 10x10x10 soon and have instructions in the making that I was going to post for anyone to use. There are about 5 different sized cases all for under $12 at hobby lobby (after 40% off) and depending on the hole pattern, you can have this too:
IMG_20151231_094915.jpg
Here's my concept art for a couple of the sizes:
all2.jpg
 

sdsnybny

Arachnogeek
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Apr 29, 2015
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Try Tap Plastics for supplies, if you don't have one near you then they have an online store.
They also have smaller hinges and hasps they will work fine for the size enclosures you have in mind and increase viewing space.
 

viper69

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After sloshing it all over the place (the guy at the plastics shop have me a 3oz squeeze bottle :shifty:) I got a 2.5ml syringe and a much smaller gauge needle.
I'm a little disappointed about the spots, but for my first one, I'm calling it good enough! :p
I went into Hobby Lobby based on your last thread, where I though the lids were sort of press-fit, they aren't as you told me. SO, I've only drilled holes in acrylic.

1. How and what did you use to cut the lids in making the arboreal setup ? That's the only reason I'd get them.

2. What solvent did you use, because "glue" doesn't cut it :cool:, Did you use Weld-On or...., and what was the specific catalog number and vendor?

3. In the arboreal one you made, and in the CAD drawings, there is a angular notch on only 2 sides for the aboreal containers. What's that for?

The only thing I didn't like about the case is that it wasn't deep enough for my liking. If they were as deep as a medium sized KK, I'd be all in. I still might get one and make an arboreal setup for small Avics
 
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viper69

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@bryverine, I am very impressed. I've been using a lot of similar enclosures and paying ~$30 per cage, and that's buying 24 at a time. Even these came with a few spilled drops of solvent, the doors warped after a few months, and cracks formed on about 1/3, mostly at glue junctures (?stress cracks). Being able to change design a little depending on needs would be great. The case is from hobby lobby? Once again, thank you for the post.
I've heard I BELIEVE from the TheSnark that ultimately two things will happen to acrylic 1. It will warp over time (though varies by thickness) 2. If you drop coco fiber in as substrate, perhaps even peat, ultimately the acrylic will discolor over time and that is irreversible.
 

Belegnole

Tarantula Guy
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Nov 30, 2005
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New @bryverine Looks cool, but you mentioned "after 40% off". How are you getting the 40% off? Because I have a Hobby Lobby here in town and lots of time on the weekends.
 

viper69

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New @bryverine Looks cool, but you mentioned "after 40% off". How are you getting the 40% off? Because I have a Hobby Lobby here in town and lots of time on the weekends.
If we tell you, you owe us a T.

The org's website has the coupon. Print as many as you want, details apply.

I expect an Avic of my choosing.
 

Belegnole

Tarantula Guy
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If we tell you, you owe us a T.

The org's website has the coupon. Print as many as you want, details apply.

I expect an Avic of my choosing.
Sorry Viper, I don't keep Avics at this time. If you send me a few of your extras, I'll be sure to send one back later.
 

bryverine

Arachnoangel
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I went into Hobby Lobby based on your last thread, where I though the lids were sort of press-fit, they aren't as you told me. SO, I've only drilled holes in acrylic.

1. How and what did you use to cut the lids in making the arboreal setup ? That's the only reason I'd get them.

2. What solvent did you use, because "glue" doesn't cut it :cool:, Did you use Weld-On or...., and what was the specific catalog number and vendor?

3. In the arboreal one you made, and in the CAD drawings, there is a angular notch on only 2 sides for the aboreal containers. What's that for?

The only thing I didn't like about the case is that it wasn't deep enough for my liking. If they were as deep as a medium sized KK, I'd be all in. I still might get one and make an arboreal setup for small Avics
I'm sorry, all three of mine were a net fit. If I use my nails and extreme patience, I can take them off without upsetting inhabitants. Once they are cut, this is no longer the case and are easily opened and closed.
1. I used a small bench top band saw with a metal cutting blade (closer teeth) then lapped the edges to give then a smoother appearance. You could use a hand saw, a coping saw, out even a jig saw with the right blades.
2. Super glue works very well, but it looks awful! I used Weldon 'Scigrip 3'.
3. The door can't open otherwise. ;)
14547230448541814962442.jpg
This is a picture from my instruction PDF I'm making. :)
I've heard I BELIEVE from the TheSnark that ultimately two things will happen to acrylic 1. It will warp over time (though varies by thickness) 2. If you drop coco fiber in as substrate, perhaps even peat, ultimately the acrylic will discolor over time and that is irreversible.
Very interesting. I'll have to look into these. @The Snark do you know what about the polymers would cause these to happen?
I figured porosity in the surface layer could allow it to absorb coloration, but even then unless exposed to uv, i can't imagine this happens at a very quick rate.
The deformation is curious to me. There are inherent stresses in the material when made and depending on how it was made, these may be greater. Is this sort of like 'creep'? Rubber will degrade with the presence of O2 and UV, is this another explanation of what you are taking about?
 

viper69

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I'm sorry, all three of mine were a net fit. If I use my nails and extreme patience, I can take them off without upsetting inhabitants. Once they are cut, this is no longer the case and are easily opened and closed.
1. I used a small bench top band saw with a metal cutting blade (closer teeth) then lapped the edges to give then a smoother appearance. You could use a hand saw, a coping saw, out even a jig saw with the right blades.
2. Super glue works very well, but it looks awful! I used Weldon 'Scigrip 3'.
3. The door can't open otherwise. ;)
View attachment 205202
This is a picture from my instruction PDF I'm making. :)
I wish I had a bench top band saw! I understand why you used blades made for metal. I have a coping saw, and a jig saw as well. I might get one of these.
2. Thanks!
3. Ohhh RIGHT, because the lids have a mini-vertical "wall" around their perimeter. I had forgotten the lids were not a single flat plane. What angle did you cut the notches out, 45?

I can't wait to see the PDF.
 

bryverine

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I wish I had a bench top band saw! I understand why you used blades made for metal. I have a coping saw, and a jig saw as well. I might get one of these.
2. Thanks!
3. Ohhh RIGHT, because the lids have a mini-vertical "wall" around their perimeter. I had forgotten the lids were not a single flat plane. What angle did you cut the notches out, 45?

I can't wait to see the PDF.
Well those notches were actually made on a belt sander.... Not very accurate, but boy do they take off material fast!
 

viper69

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Well those notches were actually made on a belt sander.... Not very accurate, but boy do they take off material fast!
I hadn't thought of that. I can't visualize how that notch making is done actually.
 

bryverine

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Let me do a final spelling search so I don't sound like an idiot and I'll upload my rough draft.
 
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