Cerbalus negebensis, question before buying
- Thread starter Neo
- Start date
Arthroverts
Arachnoking
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2016
- Messages
- 2,468
I don't think such high temperatures are necessary for this species from what I've seen. It might appreciate the warmth but it doesn't seem room temperature has any negative effects on this species.
Thanks,
Arthroverts
Thanks,
Arthroverts
That is REALLY good to hear unless someone else can say differently. I was planning to get them but what was holding me back was hearing that they need light and heat. But if it can be happy with the kind of setup a T can handle, then great! (which is room temperature, low light)
- Joined
- May 30, 2017
- Messages
- 2,158
It's not necessary as room temperature is fine, but they do like warmth a lot. So the warmer, the better in my experience. They however do not adapt as well in captivity. I've had mines live for a few months, but then they sadly passed. Now just to let you know, I got them as adults and not to mention I had little to no information going in when I got them. I've learned a few things from this species. So here goes my input, so take it or leave it.
1. They appreciate warmth as in air heat such as a space heater heat. While they do well in room temperature, I'd suggest 75F+ for them.
2. They're not N. aravensis, so they don't create trap-doors like they're cousins in my experience. When I had mines, none of them created trap-doors. Instead, they lived in a wandering spider lifestyle. So either they don't create trap-doors, or maybe there is a special requirement/case to make them do so.
3. In terms of feeding, they are not good catching prey in my experience. I literally had to tong-feed them all the time to eat. For some reason, they don't hunt as well as I thought.
4. Any WC specimens do not do as well, which is common sense. My WC specimens did okay, but in terms of feeding and getting adapted to captivity, they tend to struggle with feeding/hunting. But overall, it wasn't too bad.
There are a few things I cannot figure out when I had them, but the biggest thing was how to reproduce them. I had WC females, so some were bound to be gravid before being caught. I had three sacs, and none of them made it. One sac was not wrapped well by the mother and it dried out. Another female made a sac and it was wrapped well, so I just left it as is to see what will happen. And sadly, that egg sac dried out. Another sac from another female was made, and I kept it a little humid, but not too humid because they're a dry species. And the reverse happened, the eggs rotted out. Then they all shortly passed after that. I have to say, it was harder to figure out than breeding tarantulas.
I think a great attributing factor is humidity for the sacs to be successful. Sadly, I don't know what exact range of humidity is required for a good eggsac hatching for the N. negebensis.
1. They appreciate warmth as in air heat such as a space heater heat. While they do well in room temperature, I'd suggest 75F+ for them.
2. They're not N. aravensis, so they don't create trap-doors like they're cousins in my experience. When I had mines, none of them created trap-doors. Instead, they lived in a wandering spider lifestyle. So either they don't create trap-doors, or maybe there is a special requirement/case to make them do so.
3. In terms of feeding, they are not good catching prey in my experience. I literally had to tong-feed them all the time to eat. For some reason, they don't hunt as well as I thought.
4. Any WC specimens do not do as well, which is common sense. My WC specimens did okay, but in terms of feeding and getting adapted to captivity, they tend to struggle with feeding/hunting. But overall, it wasn't too bad.
There are a few things I cannot figure out when I had them, but the biggest thing was how to reproduce them. I had WC females, so some were bound to be gravid before being caught. I had three sacs, and none of them made it. One sac was not wrapped well by the mother and it dried out. Another female made a sac and it was wrapped well, so I just left it as is to see what will happen. And sadly, that egg sac dried out. Another sac from another female was made, and I kept it a little humid, but not too humid because they're a dry species. And the reverse happened, the eggs rotted out. Then they all shortly passed after that. I have to say, it was harder to figure out than breeding tarantulas.
I think a great attributing factor is humidity for the sacs to be successful. Sadly, I don't know what exact range of humidity is required for a good eggsac hatching for the N. negebensis.
Awesome information Liquilfin . Very much appreciated by me and those wondering. I'll learn from your observation and try a different approach to see if there's any difference.
One thing though is that my experience will be from slings. Planning to get 2 slings and see wasup.
One thing though is that my experience will be from slings. Planning to get 2 slings and see wasup.
gorybmovie
Arachnosquire
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2022
- Messages
- 122
I don't know anything about keeping tarantulas, but I did a google search to see what I could find. This breeder sells them and the note at the bottom says that the temperature must be below 90°F or above 40°F. Based on that I think you're good. Here is the link. There is contact info on this page. I would message this breeder and ask them.
^ Thank you! That's quite the range!
I got them by the way! Got two slings coming my way along with my main buy, a centipede!
On the side note, anyone have any idea how potent the venom is on one of these?
Kinda wondering the same on H. Lunula, apologies on jumping species but I'm curious lol.
I got them by the way! Got two slings coming my way along with my main buy, a centipede!
On the side note, anyone have any idea how potent the venom is on one of these?
Kinda wondering the same on H. Lunula, apologies on jumping species but I'm curious lol.
gorybmovie
Arachnosquire
- Joined
- Jan 11, 2022
- Messages
- 122
This page on H. Lunula says that they are not venomous but the bites are painful. Here's a cool video on the cerbalus that has a lot of information. And here is another video, that is also very helpful.
ForTW
Arachnobaron
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2021
- Messages
- 407
Hi
Nothing to worry i'd say but when i see mine bite the tweezers i assume they have a pretty strong bite.
Usually they hit you with the frontlegs and Run away. Not so fast.
Always trying to retreat to it's burrow.
On insects they go all in and are pretty brutal. Including wrestling cockroaches.
Regards
Nothing to worry i'd say but when i see mine bite the tweezers i assume they have a pretty strong bite.
Usually they hit you with the frontlegs and Run away. Not so fast.
Always trying to retreat to it's burrow.
On insects they go all in and are pretty brutal. Including wrestling cockroaches.
Regards
ForTW
Arachnobaron
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2021
- Messages
- 407
I haven't had a chance to See the epygine but subadult you cleary See the bulbs getting swollen.
No major dimorphism except däthe slightly larger abdomen in females. A gamble.
1.1.0
No major dimorphism except däthe slightly larger abdomen in females. A gamble.
1.1.0
Attachments
Cool, thanks guys!
If there's anything else, please share.
Just got the two slings today, they're a bit tired looking but that's to be expected.
I'll fill in more information for future keepers, especially if there's anything new and unusual. Help hobbyists out, myself included ;P
If there's anything else, please share.
Just got the two slings today, they're a bit tired looking but that's to be expected.
I'll fill in more information for future keepers, especially if there's anything new and unusual. Help hobbyists out, myself included ;P