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about Curly hair tarantulas.

Discussion in 'Tarantula Chat' started by friendttyy, Dec 9, 2012.

  1. friendttyy

    friendttyy Arachnolord

    Hello, we will go over the Curly Haired tarantula for you guys, I will cover everything you need too know about the tarantula. A helpful tip; The Curly Haired tarantula's latin name is Brachyplema albopilosum

    So, what does this tarantula look like? Well when it's a sub-adult it'll be a plain black colour all over with little golden hairs on it, so it gives it a nice colour to it, it has 8 legs because it's a new world spider, these spiders are from Costa Rica, which are located in the forests.

    These spiders are a great spider to have when you first start buying tarantulas because they're very cheap and easy too care for, very docile (calm natured) which means they're not prone to bite or put you in any harm, this tarantula is a Terrestrial species (ground living) meaning they do not need any height when looking after them. The only thing these will do is flick hairs if they get spooked by sudden movements or if your annoying them lol these hairs could irritate your skin and cause rashes but normally this type of tarantula won't flick hairs or bite you if your careful with them just like any other spider.
    If you do decide to buy one of these tarantula's and keep it in an enclosure then you'll need the some of the following things (I'll do multiple choices to give you an idea of what you'd want)

    Heat mat (not required) this will basically provide the tarantula with a heat source and make it feel more comfortable in the environment you're keeping it in. Heat mats for a spider will not cost anything over £10 if you've got a good pet store near you, if not Amazon will provide you one for about £7, or $10. You should only cover up to half the tank at maximum so if the tarantula decides to cool down or heat up then it can move from one side to the other side depending on how it's feeling, the heat mat will encourage the spider too molt as well (only when it's ready to go into pre-molt) because it needs a certain temperature for it's body too allow it to go into the molting stage, so overall a heat mat is recommended.

    Hiding - You should always give your tarantula a hiding source so it can burrow underneath it and feel safe if it ever wants to hide away from anything, also it's a place it can molt and eat because it's a suitable place because it's out the way of everything else but itself, You can provide a rock or plant pot.. something which is can easily burrow and hide under.

    Substrate - I highly recommend Coconut Husk, this stuff is fairly cheap for the amount you get it in. A brick sized-shape will cost about £5 or $8. It'll easily fill up a normal size bucket once you've added water to the brick and left it for half an hour, what it does is the brick absorbs the water and just expands by itself. This substrate is very easy for the tarantula to bury itself in, absorbs moisture as well so it can be used to also keep the tarantula cool.
    Another note on this substrate is that you'll need to clean out the tarantula every 5 or 6 months so no mould or ticks will get into the enclosure (well it'll lower the risk of it happening) you could use some bark as well, as long as it's been disinfected because a chemical in the bark can harm the tarantula, this is also a good floor for the tarantula to live on as well.

    Feeding/water - Depending on the size of the tarantula you can buy different sized crickets (best food for them IMO) if it's a sub-adult then you'll probably need size 3 silent crickets (you should only really feed them once a week, but that depends on how fast you'd want the tarantula to grow. The more you feed it potentially the quicker it'll grow) But beware of this method because the more you feed it the bigger the abdomen will get and if you ever dropped it or it fell off something then the abdomen has a very high risk of cracking which will kill the tarantula or seriously harm it , you can feed them the odd pinkie once they're fully grown (this is too be kept at a minimum though as it's a big food source for a spider of 5 - 6 inches big. For the water source I recommend spraying the enclosure down with a bottle sprayer, this then covers a area which you'd like to add water to the tank so the tarantula can grab a drop whenever it wants to, I normally spray mine once every 2 or 3 days to keep it well watered if it ever wants it. If any food is uneaten you should take it out after 6 - 12 hours because if the tarantula is going into pre-molt and the food is alive and in the enclosure it could cause seriously harm to the tarantula because it's defenseless once in the molting stage, so you should take it out straight away to take away the risk of the tarantula being hurt.

    I hope this care sheet has helped any views that are reading this, and I hope you can one day maybe get yourself one of these great spiders for yourself, If I've missed out any information or you want too add any then feel free to Private message me and i'll add it in and give you the credits for the information which you added. You can also Private message me if you have any FAQ's, or you can just post it in this thread. Thanks for reading guys and I hope I've been of some help to any of you.
    Please post your experience aswell.:biggrin:

    ---------- Post added 12-09-2012 at 07:01 PM ----------

    I will be putting multiple resources so u dont need to do a lot of research.

    ---------- Post added 12-09-2012 at 07:03 PM ----------

    What does the Curly Hair Tarantula look like?

    While immature, this species has an overall brown colour, with a copper tint on the carapace. Mature Adults still have the copper on the carapore, but have a brown-black ground with golden-red hairs on the legs and abdomen. An average adult size is 3 inch body and up to a 4.5-5.5 inch leg span.

    Personally, I prefer the Curly Hair Tarantula to the Chile Rose Tarantula. The Adult colour is pretty and I have found this species to be very calm and easy to handle. I basically just pick them up and pop them in my hand, they never seem to struggle. Caution should always be taken, as each tarantula has a different temperament.

    Where are Curly Hair Tarantulas from?

    Found in wet forests of Guatemala to Costa Rica.

    Due to this species living in wet forests, they need to be provided with a reasonably humid living area of 70-80%. The temperature ranges from 21 - 27C (70 - 80F), just above room temperature will be fine for them.

    Are Curly Hair Tarantulas to keep?

    YES - This is one of the easiest and best species of tarantula to keep.

    Being a Terrestrial species (ground living), you need to provide the Tarantula with more ground space than height. They will dig if given the opportunity or hide beneath logs, I find they prefer the latter. Layer the bottom of the tank with approx. 3" (80mm) of substrate to allow burrowing. Provide rocks, logs and even a plant pot for the Curly Hair to hide under.

    Once a week, feed on a range of insects and depending on the age, the odd pinkie (baby mouse). Crickets can injury your tarantula during moulting, so any uneaten food should be removed if your tarantula doesn't seem interested, try feeding again a few days later. Always provide water, this can be via a shallow dish or Tarantula sponge!

    ---------- Post added 12-09-2012 at 07:10 PM ----------

    Before you buy a tarantula you should think about the conditions it will need to live a long and healthy life. Many tarantulas die in the first few days because their new owner hasn't prepared a suitable home for them. First decide what you want to buy because a small spiderling will obviously require very different accommodation to a full grown specimen.

    I will assume you are buying a medium-sized tarantula in which case you will need to provide the following.


    Pet shops will sell suitable tanks in glass or plastic and the size should not be less than about 25cm by 15cm by 15cm high. If you want to create a tank that tries to provide natural conditions (for example rain forest with leaf litter, logs etc.) then you will need a much larger tank, but you won't see your spider very often! I would suggest that you begin with the simple tank without unnecessary contents so that you can watch your tarantula's activities.

    Substrate (Ground cover)

    A 2cm layer of Vermiculite should cover the bottom of the tank and a thin layer of chipped bark or cocoa fibre placed on top of that. These can be purchased from most garden centres and should be kept damp to keep up the humidity levels in the tank. Potting compost should not be used as they really need to be sterilised and changed frequently.


    A temperature of 21-24°C is required for most of the tarantulas that you should buy as a beginner. If you have a centrally heated room which stays at that temperature all the time then you won't need extra heating during the winter, but you will between spring and autumn when the heating is switched off.

    A good pet shop that sells reptiles and spiders will have a variety of thermostatically controlled heating devices including underground cables, heating mats and hot rocks. Tell them the size and type of tank that you are using and they will recommend a suitable heater for you. An alternative is a seed propagator which can be purchased from garden centres. You can keep your tank inside it. Red light bulbs are not very suitable for heating spider tanks.


    The humidity in the tank should not be less than 50-60% and you should buy a little humidity gauge to stick on the inside of your tank. If the humidity drops below 50% your tarantula may die during its next moult. You can keep the humidity high by misting the tank with water from a plant mister. You should make sure that has been washed thoroughly if it's been used for any plant fertiliser or other chemicals. Also, keep a check on the tank to make sure no mould develops.


    Crickets and locusts are usually available from pet shops that sell tarantulas and reptiles, and you can try other livestock which you catch yourself, such as moths and caterpillars. Some will even eat earthworms. A tarantula of about 3-4cm in body length will eat 8-10 crickets each week although it will survive on less.

    If you keep live food for your tarantula then you should also ensure that the live food is kept in appropriate conditions (adequate space, correct temperature and humidity and access to food and water).


    Water is vital to your tarantula. It can survive for weeks without food but quickly die without water. A small container such as a coffee jar lid half-full of water will provide drinking water and help keep the humidity up.


    As your tarantula grows it will moult (shed its skin in a process called ecdysis) regularly, 2-3 times a year in the case of the half grown individual. Signs of an approaching moult are darkening of the colour and the spider will stop feeding.

    When feeding stops, remove any live food in case they irritate the spider, or worse, nibble it while it is helpless during the moult. Normally the spider will turn on its back to moult and lie still in that position for several hours. Do not disturb it in any way at this time as activity may prove fatal. Feed it about 4-5 days after moulting when its new skin has hardened.

    Suggested species

    For your first tarantula you don't want an aggressive, difficult to keep or very expensive specimen. The following are ideal species:
    •Chilean Rose (Grammostola spatulatus / G. cala)
    •Entre Rios (Grammostola inheringii)
    •Curly Haired (Brachypelma albopilosa)
    •Red Rump (Brachypelma vagans)
    •White Collared (Pterinopelma saltator)

    Additional considerations

    Urticating hairs

    Most species of tarantula possess urticating hairs. These hairs are a defensive hair that can cause itching/irritation of the skin or more severe problems if hairs enter the eye. Care should be taken when handling tarantulas or cleaning out their enclosure. Tarantulas may also rub their back legs across their abdomen to flick hairs upwards if they feel threatened.


    All tarantulas are capable of biting (since this is how they feed). Many species are docile and rarely bite as a means of defence but others are more aggressive. Biting is often a last resort and different species have different threat behaviours (for example, raising the front pairs of legs, showing their fangs or hissing by rubbing their chelicerae together) which indicate that they feel threatened. It is important that you can recognise these behaviours or, better still, avoid doing anything that makes your tarantula feel threatened.

    You may also find our page on Arachnids interesting.

    Remember: it is important that you know the needs and requirements of your pet before you obtain the animal. You should never, ever obtain an animal before researching its needs and preparing the housing and conditions.
  2. Kazaam

    Kazaam Arachnobaron

    Tarantulas aren't capable of aggression, their 'brain' is too simple for that.
    This is untrue.
    That's a bit too quick.
    That is untrue as well.

    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 10, 2012
    • Agree Agree x 2
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Chris_Skeleton

    Chris_Skeleton Arachnoprince

    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 10, 2012
    • Like Like x 6
    • Agree Agree x 2
    • Funny Funny x 1
  4. friendttyy

    friendttyy Arachnolord

    I got it from other places blame them and blame some ppl who told me to DO RESEARCH ON THESE GOOGLE STUFF.
  5. MarkmD

    MarkmD Arachnoprince

    It's alright to do Google wiki pages and other site research just read from many sources on that species, then dull it to it's minimal form ie substrate, enclosure size etc, then you have a good care sheet or atleast a basic one, you gave it a good try so I wont say anything about it.
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2012
  6. Aredtomato

    Aredtomato Arachnopeon

    Just recently got my first Curly Hair. And just want to double check on humidity, as I was told it isn't a huge necessity.

    Should the water dish (which is actually water with silica crystals, making a sort of jelly-like substance) in the tank provide adequate enough humidity for a Curly Hair, if it is important? Its a fairly small tank and I'd like to not wet the sides because she has taken a fondness to staying on the walls for hours on end.
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2012
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. Kazaam

    Kazaam Arachnobaron

    They like it dry, just keep one corner a bit humid by spraying it whenever you feel like it.

    Remove the silica crystals, tarantulas can't drink from them, replace it with normal water.

    They hate humidity, when it's too high it'll climb, fall, and possibly damage itself.
  8. Aredtomato

    Aredtomato Arachnopeon

    Ok, thank you. That is what I thought, just wanted to make sure I wasn't killing the Little Miss. I'm used to high humidity T's.

    And as far as the silica goes, it will be promptly removed. It was only temporary as it was from the pet shop.
  9. Kazaam

    Kazaam Arachnobaron

    Don't believe anything that pet stores say.
  10. MarkmD

    MarkmD Arachnoprince

    As said only fresh water, to make it easy just keep it like a G,Rosea.
  11. Aredtomato

    Aredtomato Arachnopeon

    Ha, I seldom do. Only had the silica for a day or so. I was less prepared than I thought and have nothing to use as an adequate water dish until Monday afternoon, which fortunately is tomorrow. I figured it couldn't hurt if it was only a day or two.

    But I appreciate the advice. I wasn't aware they couldn't drink it period. I just thought it was a "It'll do for a bit" type thing. I'll make sure to turn down silica jelly at future purchases from that shop, which should be tomorrow.
  12. Kazaam

    Kazaam Arachnobaron

    You can use it for crickets if you want, that works.

    Tarantulas can go months without water, this shouldn't be a problem.
  13. MarkmD

    MarkmD Arachnoprince

    Good, you could have used a bottle cap for water.
  14. This is the point I read up to before giving up, good idea, poor information.
    Last edited by a moderator: Dec 10, 2012
  15. Aredtomato

    Aredtomato Arachnopeon

    Yeah, thats right. Might as well take some for them. Alright, I'm done derailing this thread. My apologies.
  16. friendttyy

    friendttyy Arachnolord

    Tahnks for the replies I am actually getting them from google so people wont have to go everywhere tolook for them.

    ---------- Post added 12-10-2012 at 05:11 PM ----------

    Brachypelma albopilosum

    From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

    Jump to: navigation, search

    "Curlyhair" redirects here. For the texture of hair, see Curly hair.

    Brachypelma albopilosum

    Honduran curlyhair tarantula

    Scientific classification














    B. albopilosum

    Binomial name

    Brachypelma albopilosum
    Valerio, 1980

    Brachypelma albopilosum is a species of tarantula known commonly as the Honduran curlyhair or simply Curlyhair tarantula. Its native range includes Central America, from Honduras to Costa Rica . They are terrestrial, opportunistic burrowing spiders. This tarantula is covered in long hairs that have a characteristic curl to them giving them a unique look.

    [hide] 1 Description
    2 Range and Habitat
    3 Biology
    4 Conservation
    5 As pets
    6 Gallery
    7 References
    8 External links

    [edit] Description

    The Curlyhair tarantula is a plump-bodied spider, covered with dark brown to black hair. It has a golden-bronze sheen due to longer gold hairs that cover the whole body, which are particularly dense on the hind legs.[1] Males are often a lighter bronze color than females.[2]

    [edit] Range and Habitat

    The range of the Curlyhair tarantula stretches along the Atlantic side of Honduras, Nicaragua and north-eastern Costa Rica. A burrowing species, the curlyhair tarantula is found in tropical scrubland, either around the base of large trees, near rivers, or in patches of cleared rain forest.[2][3]

    [edit] Biology

    Receptive females will allow a male to mate, usually during the rainy season, resulting in the making of an egg sac and the laying of 300 to 500 eggs several weeks later.[3] The egg sac is incubated for about seven to eight weeks at 24 to 27 degrees Celsius, after which pale-colored young emerge and cluster together. The spiderlings develop quickly, molting again over the next couple of weeks, by which time they disperse to live independent lives. Unreceptive females are likely to be aggressive towards approaching males and may try to kill and eat them.[2][3]

    Primarily a nocturnal, opportunistic ambusher, the curlyhair tarantula preys on insects and small vertebrates. An area on the end of each leg is sensitive to smell, taste and vibration, and is used to detect prey. The tarantula holds its prey with its pedipalps (front limbs) and injects it with venom delivered via two hollow fangs. This venom has a double purpose, paralysing the prey, as well as beginning digestion.Once the venom has acted the tarantula is able to suck up the proteins and fats of its prey, leaving just a small ball of undigested body parts.[2][3] This usually docile tarantula will kick hairs off the abdomen with its hind legs when threatened, which cause blindness if they hit the eyes of a predator and can also cause a rash on the skin.[3]

    [edit] Conservation

    The largest threat to the Curlyhair tarantula is now habitat loss. Once captured in large numbers for the international pet trade, the curlyhair tarantula is now bred in captivity worldwide and relatively few are caught in the wild.[2] Listed on Appendix II of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES), the curlyhair tarantula can now only be traded internationally according to quotas and with trade permits.[4]

    [edit] As pets

    B. albopilosum is frequently kept and bred in captivity. They feed readily on commercially available crickets and cockroaches. They are typically docile. Females are long-lived, potentially reaching 15 years of age.

    [edit] Gallery

    An adult B.albopilosum

    A juvenile B.albopilosum

    [edit] References

    This article incorporates text from the ARKive fact-file "Brachypelma albopilosum" under the Creative Commons Attribution-ShareAlike 3.0 Unported License and the GFDL.

    1.^ "Eight: A site about tarantulas". April, 2005. Retrieved July 21, 2011.
    2.^ a b c d e Baxter, R.N. (1993). Keeping and Breeding Tarantulas. Ilford, Essex: Chudleigh Publishing.
    3.^ a b c d e West, R. (2008) Pers. comm.
    4.^ "CITES". CITES. April, 2008. Retrieved July 21, 2011.
    Eight Legs Brachypelma albopilosum

    ---------- Post added 12-10-2012 at 05:12 PM ----------

    for the original page got to http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Brachypelma_albopilosum
  17. macbaffo

    macbaffo Arachnolord

    Friendtty. Seriously. Of course we are blaming you cos it's you who copied without reading that stuff. Your idea is good but you are doing it wrong. It is well known that caresheets from internet are not so accurate and yet you copy&paste.

    Better if you summarize all those articles in one big article with appropriate corrections.

    Nothing against you but newbies have already a lot of confused info and looking in this thread they might get confused even more. And i know that it's not what you want.
    • Like Like x 2
  18. MarkmD

    MarkmD Arachnoprince

    I agree, maybe you should have summarized from a fue sources and then made a short cut version that is factual and to the point, ok you gave it a try and well done, but unless you know your facts I wouldn't even try, as said newbies are having a hard time as it is without needing more.
  19. SamuraiSid

    SamuraiSid Arachnodemon

    Welcome to the internet, heres your bag of salt:D

    Im not gonna blame you, but the problem is that I cant blame them either because someone else gave them that info, and someone else gave the other people info, and so on and so forth. Grow a thick skin and realize We are all a bunch of anal T enthusiast who dont tolerate misinformation.... Now if we could all just agree on what constitutes misinformation the hobby would be a better place:sarcasm:
    Stans got a couple of great threads you should read. From there familiarize yourself with KISS (Keep It Stupid Simple) and the few species that do have specific requirements like swamp dwellers (Ie. Theraphosa sp.), but even these can be weened from their humidity requirements.... Guess We will have to wait for Stan to officially write an article about it before the majority catch on:sarcasm: Fact is that the vast majority of T's, regardless of what the weather is like in their "natural" habitat, will survive well on bone dry substrate, with a waterdish and hide. Nothing more is needed and falls in the category of personal preferance.
  20. macbaffo

    macbaffo Arachnolord

    Anal T enthusiast?
    I hope for a typo there :p
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