LadyVonChimp
Arachnosquire
- Joined
- Oct 20, 2020
- Messages
- 113
that's really helpful, thanks. I did try to do that with the holes on the bottom above sub level and then further up, but I'm guessing maybe I should've just done some at the bottom and in the lid instead? I guess basically what I'm asking you guys is if I should add more and where?To ensure good airflow you basically want holes on the sides just above sub level, and holes in the top/lid, as warm air exits via the top it pulls in fresh air via the holes at the bottom, this is basically the same way that European glass enclosures and Exo Terras are ventilated.
View attachment 372577
What i was saying, is right where you are going to be putting the substrate in, right above that level as low down as possible, I add a row (or double row) of ventilation, on at least two opposing sides, sometimes the whole diameter. And then double rows up high where it will be hannging out and molting for 'cross ventilation' as well as cycling, and then ample ventilation on the lid for warm air to cycle up and out through with the rows at substrate level drawing new cooler air in.I guess basically what I'm asking you guys is if I should add more and where?
Ok cool, thank you. So, if I add a row right above the sub the whole way around, with the holes that are already on the sides and in the lid, that should be sufficient?What i was saying, is right where you are going to be putting the substrate in, right above that level as low down as possible, I add a row (or double row) of ventilation, on at least two opposing sides, sometimes the whole diameter. And then double rows up high where it will be hannging out and molting for 'cross ventilation' as well as cycling, and then ample ventilation on the lid for warm air to cycle up and out through with the rows at substrate level drawing new cooler air in.
So in another word im saying add more based on what I have described.
Yes but...You have like a star cluster up high on one side (and one lower down), I would add another star cluster up high on the opposing side, and then a few more on the lid for just added measure.Ok cool, thank you. So, if I add a row right above the sub the whole way around, with the holes that are already on the sides and in the lid, that should be sufficient?
Ah got it, I see exactly what you're saying. Ok I'll add a couple of rows on the sub level below the higher cluster, and the same on the opposite side but above the lower cluster. Thanks, my brain is having a hard time working things out today it seemsYes but...You have like a star cluster up high on one side (and one lower down), I would add another star cluster up high on the opposing side, and then a few more on the lid for just added measure.
Here’s an example of three different enclosure all with the type of ventilation I have described.- some have single rows low down some have double rows. And the two with white lids have a lot of ventilation on the lids.
View attachment 372581 View attachment 372582
There are many ways to achieve the same result of proper air flow, this is just my way, so you can go of what i have shown you in the pictures if you want. Some people add holes along with hole height spaced out all along (the Swiss Cheese ventilation method), I prefer to organize where I put the holes strategically, and only put them on two opposing sides and the lid, so that view isnt obstructed by having holes everywhere up and down on a side like I feel on the swiss cheese method. And the thermal air flow gradient method up and out the lid, is techically a more 'active air flow' than just on the sides (pure cross ventilation) which is more of a passive air flow.Ah got it, I see exactly what you're saying. Ok I'll add a couple of rows on the sub level below the higher cluster, and the same on the opposite side but above the lower cluster. Thanks, my brain is having a hard time working things out today it seems
Yeah, that's the downside to this enclosure unfortunately. It's only temporary, the enclosure it was gonna go in was used for a P.irmirnia yesterday instead, so just saving up until I can buy something a bit better. Wanted to make the temp place as suitable as I could though but you're totally right about the webbing, bummer.Ventilation is fine for sure now. Don't forget to keep the sub dry. Maybe you need more fake plants at the top. avic will web up the top, so opening this enclosure might destroy some webbing. I'd use only front opening for avics.
Most other arboreals would build their burrow underneath the cork, but avics likely won't.
Its really not a problem IMO, they will usually just stop webbing the lid after it gets destroyed a few times, but they evolved to web, so it getting destroyed is no different than what happens in the wild.you're totally right about the webbing, bummer.
That's very true. But yes, I'll get to adding some foliage up top too. Thanks for all your help todayIts really not a problem IMO, they will usually just stop webbing the lid after it gets destroyed a few times, but they evolved to web, so it getting destroyed is no different than what happens in the wild.
And the ventialtion looks good now, but yes you need more/different plant cover around the top of the cork bark. You can also place the plant cover like not directly underneath the lid, but a little below, so that it doesnt automatically web the lid when building its web cloud and web tunnels.
No problemo!!That's very true. But yes, I'll get to adding some foliage up top too. Thanks for all your help today
that's a good idea. hope it doesn't web between the lid and the leavesYou can also place the plant cover like not directly underneath the lid, but a little below, so that it doesnt automatically web the lid when building its web cloud and web tunnels.
that might be true, but if its genes tell it to web up the top, it shall web up the top. if you have to force a spider to live "right", the enclosure might be wrong..Its really not a problem IMO, they will usually just stop webbing the lid after it gets destroyed a few times