A.avic Ventilation Question

LadyVonChimp

Arachnosquire
Joined
Oct 20, 2020
Messages
113
Hi all

Will this be enough ventilation for a juvie/SA avic avic? There's holes on either side for cross ventilation and in the lid, but I wanted to get a second opinion. Cheers 😊

93A0D188-38D3-478D-B38B-BACB569B7880.jpeg A131C4A2-9546-41DC-86EC-F6C7EF755702.jpeg
 
Joined
Oct 10, 2019
Messages
424
Hi
I will personally add more.
You can do one row all around just above substrate level and one more near the top.
Or more of the pattern you have.
My sling Avicularia enclosure below.
1587364748223-1390943189.jpg 20200422_181902.jpg


Regards Konstantin
 

viper69

ArachnoGod
Old Timer
Joined
Dec 8, 2006
Messages
17,851
I basically do something like Konstantin, or do vertical top to bottom at the 12, 9, 3, 6 positions with holes on top too for molting.
 

The Grym Reaper

Arachnoreaper
Joined
Jul 19, 2016
Messages
4,835
To ensure good airflow you basically want holes on the sides just above sub level, and holes in the top/lid, as warm air exits via the top it pulls in fresh air via the holes at the bottom, this is basically the same way that European glass enclosures and Exo Terras are ventilated.

cross vent.jpg
 

Smotzer

ArachnoGod
Arachnosupporter +
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Messages
5,275
I agree with viper and konstantin I do more, I add rows down low and sub level and up high, and on the lid to cylce air through with thermal gradient
 

LadyVonChimp

Arachnosquire
Joined
Oct 20, 2020
Messages
113
To ensure good airflow you basically want holes on the sides just above sub level, and holes in the top/lid, as warm air exits via the top it pulls in fresh air via the holes at the bottom, this is basically the same way that European glass enclosures and Exo Terras are ventilated.

View attachment 372577
that's really helpful, thanks. I did try to do that with the holes on the bottom above sub level and then further up, but I'm guessing maybe I should've just done some at the bottom and in the lid instead? I guess basically what I'm asking you guys is if I should add more and where? :happy:
 

Smotzer

ArachnoGod
Arachnosupporter +
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Messages
5,275
I guess basically what I'm asking you guys is if I should add more and where?
What i was saying, is right where you are going to be putting the substrate in, right above that level as low down as possible, I add a row (or double row) of ventilation, on at least two opposing sides, sometimes the whole diameter. And then double rows up high where it will be hannging out and molting for 'cross ventilation' as well as cycling, and then ample ventilation on the lid for warm air to cycle up and out through with the rows at substrate level drawing new cooler air in.

So in another word im saying add more based on what I have described.
 

LadyVonChimp

Arachnosquire
Joined
Oct 20, 2020
Messages
113
What i was saying, is right where you are going to be putting the substrate in, right above that level as low down as possible, I add a row (or double row) of ventilation, on at least two opposing sides, sometimes the whole diameter. And then double rows up high where it will be hannging out and molting for 'cross ventilation' as well as cycling, and then ample ventilation on the lid for warm air to cycle up and out through with the rows at substrate level drawing new cooler air in.

So in another word im saying add more based on what I have described.
Ok cool, thank you. So, if I add a row right above the sub the whole way around, with the holes that are already on the sides and in the lid, that should be sufficient?
 

Smotzer

ArachnoGod
Arachnosupporter +
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Messages
5,275
Ok cool, thank you. So, if I add a row right above the sub the whole way around, with the holes that are already on the sides and in the lid, that should be sufficient?
Yes but...You have like a star cluster up high on one side (and one lower down), I would add another star cluster up high on the opposing side, and then a few more on the lid for just added measure.
Here’s an example of three different enclosure all with the type of ventilation I have described.- some have single rows low down some have double rows. And the two with white lids have a lot of ventilation on the lids.
BD0B39A1-03FA-4646-9798-06AB8C0B5DFC.jpeg 0A460B39-52A1-4EA0-883F-70AF39BC1A6E.jpeg
 

LadyVonChimp

Arachnosquire
Joined
Oct 20, 2020
Messages
113
Yes but...You have like a star cluster up high on one side (and one lower down), I would add another star cluster up high on the opposing side, and then a few more on the lid for just added measure.
Here’s an example of three different enclosure all with the type of ventilation I have described.- some have single rows low down some have double rows. And the two with white lids have a lot of ventilation on the lids.
View attachment 372581 View attachment 372582
Ah got it, I see exactly what you're saying. Ok I'll add a couple of rows on the sub level below the higher cluster, and the same on the opposite side but above the lower cluster. Thanks, my brain is having a hard time working things out today it seems :drunk:
 

Smotzer

ArachnoGod
Arachnosupporter +
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Messages
5,275
Ah got it, I see exactly what you're saying. Ok I'll add a couple of rows on the sub level below the higher cluster, and the same on the opposite side but above the lower cluster. Thanks, my brain is having a hard time working things out today it seems :drunk:
There are many ways to achieve the same result of proper air flow, this is just my way, so you can go of what i have shown you in the pictures if you want. Some people add holes along with hole height spaced out all along (the Swiss Cheese ventilation method), I prefer to organize where I put the holes strategically, and only put them on two opposing sides and the lid, so that view isnt obstructed by having holes everywhere up and down on a side like I feel on the swiss cheese method. And the thermal air flow gradient method up and out the lid, is techically a more 'active air flow' than just on the sides (pure cross ventilation) which is more of a passive air flow.
 

LadyVonChimp

Arachnosquire
Joined
Oct 20, 2020
Messages
113
Right, I've made a slight revision. More holes on either side and in the top, which I think covers all of the advice I've received? Possibly over kill, and if so I'll just go grab another container but this seems like it should be suitable to me?

20210118_161211.jpg 20210118_161229.jpg
 

quirinus

Arachnoknight
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
180
Ventilation is fine for sure now. Don't forget to keep the sub dry. Maybe you need more fake plants at the top. avic will web up the top, so opening this enclosure might destroy some webbing. I'd use only front opening for adult or subadult avics..
Most other arboreals would build their burrow underneath the cork, but avics likely won't.
 

LadyVonChimp

Arachnosquire
Joined
Oct 20, 2020
Messages
113
Ventilation is fine for sure now. Don't forget to keep the sub dry. Maybe you need more fake plants at the top. avic will web up the top, so opening this enclosure might destroy some webbing. I'd use only front opening for avics.
Most other arboreals would build their burrow underneath the cork, but avics likely won't.
Yeah, that's the downside to this enclosure unfortunately. It's only temporary, the enclosure it was gonna go in was used for a P.irmirnia yesterday instead, so just saving up until I can buy something a bit better. Wanted to make the temp place as suitable as I could though but you're totally right about the webbing, bummer.
 

Smotzer

ArachnoGod
Arachnosupporter +
Joined
Jan 17, 2020
Messages
5,275
you're totally right about the webbing, bummer.
Its really not a problem IMO, they will usually just stop webbing the lid after it gets destroyed a few times, but they evolved to web, so it getting destroyed is no different than what happens in the wild.

And the ventialtion looks good now, but yes you need more/different plant cover around the top of the cork bark. You can also place the plant cover like not directly underneath the lid, but a little below, so that it doesnt automatically web the lid when building its web cloud and web tunnels.
 

LadyVonChimp

Arachnosquire
Joined
Oct 20, 2020
Messages
113
Its really not a problem IMO, they will usually just stop webbing the lid after it gets destroyed a few times, but they evolved to web, so it getting destroyed is no different than what happens in the wild.

And the ventialtion looks good now, but yes you need more/different plant cover around the top of the cork bark. You can also place the plant cover like not directly underneath the lid, but a little below, so that it doesnt automatically web the lid when building its web cloud and web tunnels.
That's very true. But yes, I'll get to adding some foliage up top too. Thanks for all your help today :happy:
 

quirinus

Arachnoknight
Joined
Dec 17, 2019
Messages
180
You can also place the plant cover like not directly underneath the lid, but a little below, so that it doesnt automatically web the lid when building its web cloud and web tunnels.
that's a good idea. hope it doesn't web between the lid and the leaves :)

Its really not a problem IMO, they will usually just stop webbing the lid after it gets destroyed a few times
that might be true, but if its genes tell it to web up the top, it shall web up the top. if you have to force a spider to live "right", the enclosure might be wrong..
 
Top