2.5 gallon size limits

Matttoadman

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As a general rule, how big a tarantula can be kept in a 2.5 gallon aquarium? I realize there are many factors that can effect this. Necessary substrate depth, terrestrial, fossorial or arboreal. Let's assume for craps and giggles you have an immature Ladiadora parahybana. At what size do you upgrade? For a burrower, let's say a ceratogyrus species, the depth of the tank is 8 inches. So you would probably only be able to give 6 in of substrate depth? Therefore you would still need to upgrade to probably a 5.5?
 

EulersK

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I'm sure there are standard dimensions for 2.5/5/10 gallon tanks, but there are also plenty of non-standard sized tanks out there. Unfortunately, even with what you said, there's no enough info. However, there is a rule of thumb you can use that will apply to just about all terrestrials. Have the width be about 2x dls, the length be about 3x dls, and the height no more than 2x dls (preferably less). So, you upgrade when your spider no longer fits those sizes.

For burrowers, you want at least 2x dls in substrate depth. Personally, I offer no less than 3x, and most often more than that. My 4" C. darlingi is in an enclosure with 16" of substrate, and she's still reached the bottom.
 
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sdsnybny

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While I don't think I would use the 2.5 gal for any terrestrial past 3" I do use then for arboreal. When put on end they make a good home for Avics, Iridopelma, Pslamo's smaller Pokies, and such. I raised my P. metallica 5.5", A. metallica 6", P. irminia 6". A. urticans 5" all to adults in them from about 2.5-3" when they went in. If you give them adequate cover they do fine.

2016-08-01 13.05.26.jpg
 

EulersK

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While I don't think I would use the 2.5 gal for any terrestrial past 3" I do use then for arboreal. When put on end they make a good home for Avics, Iridopelma, Pslamo's smaller Pokies, and such. I raised my P. metallica 5.5", A. metallica 6", P. irminia 6". A. urticans 5" all to adults in them from about 2.5-3" when they went in. If you give them adequate cover they do fine.

View attachment 220609
Interesting braces at the bottom - the white circles. What are they called? They look much better than my solution of hot glue.
 

sdsnybny

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Nylon nuts ad bolts, about the same as stainless in cost without the possibility of corrosion and I can disassemble the tank cover for maintenance. The washers act as clamps because the lip on the 2.5 is to narrow to drill through and use the 1/8" hardware to attach.
Here is a 10 gallon front I made and attached directly through the lip for a friends Pokie girls mansion. It can easily be taken apart.
2016-09-02 15.36.21.jpg 2016-09-02 15.36.31.jpg
 

EulersK

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Nylon nuts ad bolts, about the same as stainless in cost without the possibility of corrosion and I can disassemble the tank cover for maintenance. The washers act as clamps because the lip on the 2.5 is to narrow to drill through and use the 1/8" hardware to attach.
Here is a 10 gallon front I made and attached directly through the lip for a friends Pokie girls mansion. It can easily be taken apart.
View attachment 220610 View attachment 220611
And I just found a new enclosure. Plastic hardware never even occurred to me.
 

Matttoadman

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Very nice lid. Ok so I hope to be getting a 2 in Lp so it would work for a while.
 

sdsnybny

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Very nice lid. Ok so I hope to be getting a 2 in Lp so it would work for a while.
Probably for a while. LP's can grow 4-6" in the first year of life even the females.
my home stays at least 72-74 degrees and my LP went form a 1" unsexed sling in Sept of 2015 to just over 5" confirmed female after last molt on Sept 9th she has been in the @ 3 gallon enclosure since hitting 3" and will be upgraded to a 5 or 10 gallon in a couple of more molts.
 

Matttoadman

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I have two standard 2.5 gallon glass fish tanks I used for Bettas. Sounds like they will work for larger slings and juvies. I have ten gallons waiting in the wings. After a lot of researching I have settled on a small female Lasiadora parahybana. I plan to get one more female, either a theraphosidae sp. "Peru" or Ceratogyrus brachycephalus.
 
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viper69

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Nylon nuts ad bolts, about the same as stainless in cost without the possibility of corrosion and I can disassemble the tank cover for maintenance. The washers act as clamps because the lip on the 2.5 is to narrow to drill through and use the 1/8" hardware to attach.
Here is a 10 gallon front I made and attached directly through the lip for a friends Pokie girls mansion. It can easily be taken apart.
View attachment 220610 View attachment 220611
The use of plastic was a great idea. I remember this from the last time you posted such a design. On these larger tanks, how are you drilling through the plastic aquarium lids so they don't break apart. I haven't tried that yet. I can drill through acrylic w/out issue.

I assume just slow and steady? But if you have more knowledge lay it down.

I think having the front removable is the best really, Avics are so messy compared to terrestrials in the defecation dept.
 

sdsnybny

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The use of plastic was a great idea. I remember this from the last time you posted such a design. On these larger tanks, how are you drilling through the plastic aquarium lids so they don't break apart. I haven't tried that yet. I can drill through acrylic w/out issue.

I assume just slow and steady? But if you have more knowledge lay it down.

I think having the front removable is the best really, Avics are so messy compared to terrestrials in the defecation dept.
I drilled both of them together, in fact I assembled the whole lid in place. Tap plastic cut the pieces for me, You have to cut them very snug just shy of rubbing side to side.
then I set the tank upright as you would for a fish tank set the pieces in place, drew/marked the protective covering. Then I drilled all my holes for ventilation and removed the protective covering and glued the hinges and hasp in place. then I carefully drilled the holes for the nylon hardware right through both the plexi and tank lip.

Dont know if it made a difference but I used a bit for plexi to do all holes, the bit angle is 60 degrees instead of the normal steel or wood bit angle of 30 degrees
 
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viper69

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I drilled both of them together, in fact I assembled the whole lid in place. Tap plastic cut the pieces for me, You have to cut them very snug just shy of rubbing side to side.
then I set the tank upright as you would for a fish tank set the pieces in place, drew/marked the protective covering. Then I drilled all my holes for ventilation and removed the protective covering and glued the hinges and hasp in place. then I carefully drilled the holes for the nylon hardware right through both the plexi and tank lip.

Dont know if it made a difference but I used a bit for plexi to do all holes, the bit angle is 60 degrees instead of the normal steel or wood bit angle of 30 degrees
Thanks this is useful. I didn't think of drilling both lid and aquar. lid at the same time, though, that makes the most sense. I agree on using a plexi bit for this. The Tap plastic bits are single fluted if I recall as well.

How much room did you give for the acrylic lids to fit into place, a few millimeters of gap on each side? I'd imagine it would to be very close. Jamie's used to offer lids sort of like this, hinged etc, but people weren't happy because the customers couldn't provide reliable measurements.
 

sdsnybny

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Thanks this is useful. I didn't think of drilling both lid and aquar. lid at the same time, though, that makes the most sense. I agree on using a plexi bit for this. The Tap plastic bits are single fluted if I recall as well.

How much room did you give for the acrylic lids to fit into place, a few millimeters of gap on each side? I'd imagine it would to be very close. Jamie's used to offer lids sort of like this, hinged etc, but people weren't happy because the customers couldn't provide reliable measurements.
I have a tap plastics close and they will cut the pieces for you so I took the tank with me. I actually asked them to cut it as close as possible without having to push it in on the side to side measurement. I'd say you could probably NOT get a piece of cereal box cardboard in between the side and lid. If its to sloppy you will not have enough plexi covering the skinny lip/rim of tank to drill a complete hole for the hardware.
The total length of the three pieces added together was aprox 1/16th" shy of actual measurement so the edge of door will clear top dam when open/closing the lid
 

viper69

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Oh, did they drill the holes for the nylon screws? Taps seems very accommodating by all accounts.

Who was the vendor for the hinges? They seem pretty sturdy.
 

sdsnybny

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No, I did use one of their plastic bits, but I did the drilling and gluing. I use the 1/8th" bit in my dremmel for all the holes.
The hinges and hasp came from them as well. They carry two sizes micro (used on 2.5 gal) and macro (used on 10 gal)
 

Trenor

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Nylon nuts ad bolts, about the same as stainless in cost without the possibility of corrosion and I can disassemble the tank cover for maintenance. The washers act as clamps because the lip on the 2.5 is to narrow to drill through and use the 1/8" hardware to attach.
Here is a 10 gallon front I made and attached directly through the lip for a friends Pokie girls mansion. It can easily be taken apart.
View attachment 220610 View attachment 220611
Very nice. I have got to get my hands on a table saw so I can fix my two 2.5 gallons into new T homes.
 

MrsHaas

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Nov 1, 2012
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861
While I don't think I would use the 2.5 gal for any terrestrial past 3" I do use then for arboreal. When put on end they make a good home for Avics, Iridopelma, Pslamo's smaller Pokies, and such. I raised my P. metallica 5.5", A. metallica 6", P. irminia 6". A. urticans 5" all to adults in them from about 2.5-3" when they went in. If you give them adequate cover they do fine.

View attachment 220609
Loooove this enclosure!!
 
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