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Worried about my AFS

Discussion in 'Scorpions' started by oc162960, Mar 3, 2018.

  1. oc162960

    oc162960 Arachnopeon

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    Hi everyone!

    I have an AFS that is acting abnormal. I took it out the night before for the first time but never held it with my hand as I could see it was starting to stress out. I put it back and it went to a corner of the cage I have never seen it in. It has not been eating and is not moving unless poked at. All day it has been there and I saw that some other forum said that if they are not hiding, it can be a bad sign. Any tips, suggestions, reasons? Thanks!
     
  2. Whitelightning777

    Whitelightning777 Arachno-heretic Arachnosupporter

    Two things:

    They like it hot. I'd strongly suggest 80 to 85 degrees, but the heat source must never be under the scorpion, under the substrate or inside of the enclosure. Heat lamps should be no closer then 8 inches from anywhere the scorpion can travel. Create a hot side and a cold side. Heat mats need to be on either left or right side, glass only!!

    Without heat, they stop eating. Excessive humidity can diminish appetite. If they're fasting, keep a full water dish but let the substrate dry.

    Second: both of mine are finicky eaters. Crickets and mealworms are non starters for adults. Scorplings may reluctantly do mealworms. All love properly sized roaches and earthworms or sections of Earth worms.

    I'm not sure about pinkie mice, never tried them.

    Larger prey is attacked more strongly. Basically, you make the scorpion homicidal. Dropping prey right on their head so they pinch and sting it is effective.

    Another words, I kill you!!

    Hmmm.....

    Tastes like chicken!!


     
  3. Whitelightning777

    Whitelightning777 Arachno-heretic Arachnosupporter

    In that case above, I literally flicked the roach rocketing in like a spit ball with the tongs.
     
  4. oc162960

    oc162960 Arachnopeon

    Thanks for the reply. I have a heat pad that is outside the right side of the glass. It is not that hot through the glass so that may be a problem? The weird thing is that the scorpion is usually hiding in the hide that is right next to the heat pad, but now it isn't. Don't know what's going on. Also, the scorpion has completely stopped moving around day or night and of course not eating. I also put in a humidifier that fogs up the enclosure. Since it only has one setting, I turn it on for an hour or less at a time. The enclosure was relatively dry before this so maybe it isn't used to it. I feed it crickets and have always fed crickets since I got it. What do you mean by non starters? Also, can this be because I took it out for the first time and it is stressed?? Thanks for your time.
     
  5. oc162960

    oc162960 Arachnopeon

    Also, my scorpion is really small and has not grown significantly for 6 months.
     
  6. Whitelightning777

    Whitelightning777 Arachno-heretic Arachnosupporter


    By non-starters I simply mean that the scorpion will refuse to eat them. They prefer slower moving prey with a higher calorie content. Of course, also use a voltage controller switch with any heat system. These guys are finicky eaters just like Rose Hairs are. Scorplings grow slowly. I have found that only moderate humidity is necessary. Having a full water dish big enough for the scorpion to submerge but shallow enough for it to get out easily is essential. I've heard that they need to bathe once in a while to keep the book lungs from getting obstructed. The scorpion will bathe itself. No intervention on your part is needed. These guys aren't aquatic but do bathe once in a while. With humidity, just avoid extremes. Once or twice per week, allow the stagnant air to escape and then raise the humidity level again. If a younger scorpion is nearing a molt, of course raise humidity further. With heat, religiously check the water dish twice a day without exception. Dehydration, not high temps can be the killer.
     
  7. oc162960

    oc162960 Arachnopeon

    Quality info! My AFS has always eaten crickets so maybe it is in for a change? My humidity is a little high in. My opinion and also the temp in my room is around 68 to 70 degrees. Should I get a heat lamp addition to the pad I already have? Also, what am I checking the water for? Anything specific? I have never seen my AFS go to drink out of the water and the cup is a little taller than everything else so I put another dish with water and some pebbles in that is the same level as the soil. Still, never seen it drink. I also think it WAS dehydrated because I sprayed the enclosure and saw it eating the coco fibers to drink the water on it. Since then, I've raised humidity and added a large leaf to keep water. Would you say this is too extreme for humidity?
     

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  8. Whitelightning777

    Whitelightning777 Arachno-heretic Arachnosupporter



    This video contains a technique to safely heat invert cages. Be aware that it is considered controversial. Mainly it is geared to tarantulas. Scorpions can't climb up glass so that hazard isn't a factor in your case unless the top of the enclosure is within reach due to a high substrate level, unnecessary in my opinion. Just provide a hide & you are good to go.

    Do NOT handle these guys. They are not emperor scorps in any way!! A paint brush and catch cup are your friends. The hotter they get, the faster they get. For cage maintenance, I strongly advise turning the heat off for a few hours and letting in fresh air for 2 hours. The humidity can be rebuilt once the system is reactivated.

    Turning it down at night and up during the day can also help increase appetite but isn't usually necessary.

    Blacklight scorp1.jpg H spinifer thirsty 4.jpg
     
  9. Whitelightning777

    Whitelightning777 Arachno-heretic Arachnosupporter

    I have heard reports that feeding a pinkie to an invert in decline can reverse that but can not confirm that.

    If you choose to do this, use a pinkie only, never an adult or sub adult rodent!! Those could easily kill either a tarantula or a scorpion.

    Try earthworms first as well as large Dubai or hissing roaches.

    Cooling off Dubai roaches in the refrigerator (never the freezer) and removing the front pair of legs can prevent burrowing.

    While not medically significant in terms of venom, the pinschers can inflict extensive mechanical damage & the sting is far more painful then an emperor.

    I've never been tagged because I don't handle unless it's a medical crisis and the scorp is cooled to 55 - 60 degrees. I only had to do this once.
     
  10. oc162960

    oc162960 Arachnopeon

    My heat pad is almost insignificant from the inside of the cage. I touched it and felt only lukewarmth. Should I still turn it off for a couple hours or are you talking about heat lamps? I don’t think I am ready to perform surgical amputations on roaches yet! ;) Do I need to do the same to hissing roaches? Also I have less than an inch of substrate only and am planning to add much more. My ASF never burrows so do I still need to? Btw, great scorpion you got there. Thanks for all this
     
  11. oc162960

    oc162960 Arachnopeon

    I’ve seen many people handle AFS online. Should I never handle them or should I await for a larger one?
     
  12. Whitelightning777

    Whitelightning777 Arachno-heretic Arachnosupporter

    I've seen people handle the OBT online, 12"+ centipedes, poisonous snakes etc. You get the idea.

    Can and should are 2 different things!! The larger the scorp is, the greater the amount of mechanical damage the pinschers can inflict. While the venom is weak, larger scorps have longer stingers and a greater quantity of time that can be injected deeper and greater then a smaller one of the same species.

    They don't usually open the pinschers and squeeze like a crab does. The pinschers when closed come to a very sharp point.

    Imagine a thug with a switch blade in each hand pointing inward. Now imagine this thug attacks so both points meet exactly in front of his body dead center. The left one stabs left to right and the right one goes right to left.

    Whatever is between them will sustain serious damage and we all know how quick inverts can be. This mechanical damage is far more of a concern then a sting.

    I had to handle my scorp once because a piece of twine was wrapped around 2 legs and jammed into the mouth. Someone obviously was dangling food from a string that didn't dissolve.

    I lowered the temp to 55 first which rendered her harmless. The whole body felt like a ceramic pistol, same as a Glock or PX4 storm Beretta. The pinschers were even sharper then those ceramic knives you can get at gunshows and have an identical texture.

    The scorp felt more like a robot or a cyborg then a living thing. They are best admired by eye not by hand.



    This is their defensive strike. The claws are held open on the threat display but close and stab when the strike is executed. It's a little hard to see there but you get the idea. Her heating pad was unplugged at the time because I just changed the substrate and was moistening the new stuff. At 80 degrees, the claws are simply a blur like the wings of a fly in flight.

    That strike would cut straight to the bone through nerves tendons etc. Scorps with weak venom have massively powerful claws and vice versa most of the time.

    A catch cup, paint brush and tight lid are your best friends!! This is what can go wrong if you handle anything. The centipede is a more extreme example.



    In fact, the creature reacted with poise and class giving the idiot plenty of opportunities to cease and desist.
     
  13. Tim Benzedrine

    Tim Benzedrine Prankster Possum Old Timer

    He picked her up again. :rolleyes:
     
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  14. VaejovisCarolineanusSDS

    VaejovisCarolineanusSDS Arachnoknight

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    I had a male/female pair, the male died recently because of old age. The male was never fine with handling, but female is. I agree handling should be avoided mainly because of stress on the animal. The female is not very defensive and just chills on me. The male always tried to escape and his pinch was pretty bad. I had been pinched by both and the male was the worst. I don't think that would be the case for every individual though, some males may be "nicer" and some females may be more "mean". You could end up with every AFS you have being very defensive. I have never had either sting me, I once had the female bluff strike me though. She just quickly "tapped" me with her stinger. I only handle because I am confident in my ability, even then it still isn't a good idea. I find it so fascinating to hear one hiss, it scared the first time though. If you want to handle a scorpion, get P. imperator or a something like V. carolineanus. V. carolineanus are rare in the hobby but make great pets IMO, small, communal, sting is almost painless, and readily available in the Southern U.S., If you're willing to go hiking.
     
  15. Whitelightning777

    Whitelightning777 Arachno-heretic Arachnosupporter

    Wild caught critters have their own issues. For one thing, they might be pregnant!! They can also have a hard time adapting or even parasites.



    This was a surprise delivery, on mother's day!!

    She was obviously wild caught.
     
  16. darkness975

    darkness975 will the Sun ever rise? Arachnosupporter

    I wouldn't use pinky mice.
     
  17. oc162960

    oc162960 Arachnopeon

    Hey everyone. It’s been a while since I started this thread and I wanted to tell you that it has gotten slightly better now. Before it would eat 2crickets a week and I think it recently ate one this week. This has been the first since I started this. What concerns me most is that it hasn’t molted for many months. I’ve had it since September and it molted sometime in late October. Should I be worried? It is still not acting as it had before. It is definitely alive and kicking as I sometimes wake up and see it roaming its habitat. Just not as active as before.
     
  18. Don't worry about it not eating. A typical healthy scorpion could easily go months without food (and sometimes they do).

    As for the molting, do you have a picture of the individual? If it's an adult it will not molt again, and if it's a juvenile it may be many more months before it molts again. They can take 4-7 years to mature.
     
  19. oc162960

    oc162960 Arachnopeon

    Hi Collin, I can get you a picture if necessary but I'm going to just tell you that it is about only 2 inches long WITH its tail curled. It probably isn't a juvenile but if you need more info, I can send you a pic. Definitely NOT an adult
     
  20. oc162960

    oc162960 Arachnopeon

    Update: it's been more than just a couple months now and it still isn't eating. The legs look very flimsy and skinny. It is still reactive and will get really made when I spray water. I got a small cricket in case it couldn't attack the large ones. Still isn't eating. What's odd is that I say it chase the crickets a little and will point in the crickets direction when one comes bye but still won't attack. I gave it a break for a little more than a week without food. Yesterday I got crickets some bug and some small. Still not eating. Help! I don't know what to do. Temp high 70s humidity around 80%. Very active but legs looks skinny.