Tarantula in weird critical condition?

SpiderGuyJake

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 6, 2018
Messages
10
This isn’t necessarily helping. Notice I said one of the borrows. There’s two. One with a heating pad and one without. I live in Ohio. We had about a six month winter and half of the days dipped under -10, just wanted to keep it warm
 

Vulcan2900

Arachnopeon
Joined
Aug 7, 2018
Messages
1
About three days ago, I fed my Chilean Rose Hair and it was active and everything. Ate, moved around, perfectly normal. The following day, it had what kinda gets tossed around but “DKS” like symptoms, it kept having spasm like activity and poor coordination, and later was on its back. So I kind of figured it was going into molt which is really odd because

A.) It doesn’t typically eat right before it molts

B.) No webbing or anything before molt

It’s been over a day and it’s still on it’s back just moving it’s legs every now and then. I have no idea what could’ve been wrong with it as this was not gradual and happened within 48 hours. If anyone can provide any sort of information and help, that would be wonderful. I’d really like to help my T
Have you thought about trying to but a drop of water near its fangs where its moth is to see if it will dring, might be dehydrated and does not have enough liquid to molt. there should be no harm in trying. Vulcan2900.
 

Greasylake

Arachnoprince
Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Messages
1,324
it’s common knowledge that when a T is sick extra humidity helps in the healing process and/or moulting through it
Actually humidity does nothing. These are spiders not reptiles. Raising the moisture levels before a molt only creates a stuffy environment and encourages bacterial growth. All the fluids a tarantula needs to molt are produced inside its body, and it doesn't use moisture from the air to slide out.
That’s why we use ICUs
Yeah uh we don't use ICUs unless the tarantula is extremely dehydrated, and even then a water dish or dripping water onto its mouth parts is usually a better alternative.
 

Chris LXXIX

ArachnoGod
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
5,845
This isn’t necessarily helping. Notice I said one of the borrows. There’s two. One with a heating pad and one without. I live in Ohio. We had about a six month winter and half of the days dipped under -10, just wanted to keep it warm
Well, - 10 is the outside temperature, what matters is the one you have - not even in your house, entirely - but where you keep your T's/inverts/etc.
 

SuzukiSwift

Arachnoprince
Old Timer
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May 29, 2012
Messages
1,208
Actually humidity does nothing. These are spiders not reptiles. Raising the moisture levels before a molt only creates a stuffy environment and encourages bacterial growth. All the fluids a tarantula needs to molt are produced inside its body, and it doesn't use moisture from the air to slide out.

Yeah uh we don't use ICUs unless the tarantula is extremely dehydrated, and even then a water dish or dripping water onto its mouth parts is usually a better alternative.
I’m big enough to admit when I’m wrong, I can see how my information could be out of date. My apologies, I’ll remove my comment
 

cold blood

Moderator
Staff member
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Jan 19, 2014
Messages
13,250
This isn’t necessarily helping. Notice I said one of the borrows. There’s two. One with a heating pad and one without. I live in Ohio. We had about a six month winter and half of the days dipped under -10, just wanted to keep it warm
As long as you live in a house and have heat, you do not need to add supplemental heat. In a house with a furnace, the outside cold temps are pretty darn irrelevant. A rose hair is fine with temps into the 60's...adding supplemental heat like you are will only dry things excessively as well as attract the t to the heat....this is almost certainly the cause of your issue. Please please listen when people say to remove the heat pad.

I am in Wisconsin, have hundreds of tarantulas and do not use or need a heat pad. Heat pads are designed for reptiles, which have vastly different needs when it comes to temperature.
 

Greasylake

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Joined
Jul 23, 2017
Messages
1,324
I’m big enough to admit when I’m wrong, I can see how my information could be out of date. My apologies, I’ll remove my comment
It's a common mistake and the tarantula keepers guide says a lot of that stuff too. Good thing you can accept being corrected, some of the people that have come through here get defensive way too fast.
 

Chris LXXIX

ArachnoGod
Joined
Dec 25, 2014
Messages
5,845
Actually humidity does nothing.
I do understand that you replied to @SuzukiSwift, but let me only point out (for the sake of the average beginner reader) that such a stement per se isn't correct. What is pointless is to measure/put a % on humidity - say the so called humidity % numbers - but the humidity given by water poured into substrate (for certain species) matters.
 

Crone Returns

Arachnoangel
Joined
Mar 22, 2016
Messages
990
Well the windows have been closed for over a month and it’s a good 20 feet or so from a window and the angle of the window is facing away from its tank. Nothing was sprayed near it’s tank except for the water misting bottle I use to humidify the enclosure. I put more and more water on the sides of the tank to humidify it more. For over a year this spider has had exceptional care and everything it needs. It’s troubling because I’ve never had this problem with ANY of my previous arachnids. Let’s say that it IS pesticides, do any of you know any ideas on how to go through with possibly helping? Forgive me, since this is the first time I’ve dealt with anything like this, I’m not necessarily sure what to do
Could you put up a pic of your beast?

The video wouldn’t upload. It’s legs keep moving, curling in, and then expanding out. Still on its back.
How deep is your substrate?
 
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cold blood

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It's a common mistake and the tarantula keepers guide says a lot of that stuff too. Good thing you can accept being corrected, some of the people that have come through here get defensive way too fast.
Swift is a smart guy...he used to be one of the more active and helpful members here.

Good to see him back around to be honest.
 

SuzukiSwift

Arachnoprince
Old Timer
Joined
May 29, 2012
Messages
1,208
It's a common mistake and the tarantula keepers guide says a lot of that stuff too. Good thing you can accept being corrected, some of the people that have come through here get defensive way too fast.
In the end my Ts health is more important than my self image =) I don’t want to give excuses when it’s my negligence in not keeping up with the research and experience of others

Swift is a smart guy...he used to be one of the more active and helpful members here.

Good to see him back around to be honest.
Appreciate that mate, it’s great to finally be back and see many of the longer members still around like yourself.

Will hopefully be putting up some galleries on acrylic enclosures again soon
 

Whitelightning777

Arachno-heretic
Joined
Feb 9, 2017
Messages
399
You probably don't need heat at all for that one. The desert where it's from gets pretty cold at night. If you must add heat, the source needs to be above the tarantula but can also be somewhat to the side. They all go down and dark when its to hot and seek light and height when cold, regardless of where the heat or cold is coming from. If the heat is underneath, the T can fry itself. This CAN be done safely (been there -- done that), but its tricky & right now you need to get it healthy again and not worry about growth rates and appetites.

When a tarantula is dehydrated and on its back, you can use a water dropper to drip water down between the fangs to reverse dehydration.

Another method far superior to the traditional ICU is to put the tarantula into some type of container with a diagonal floor. Keep the abdomen and book lungs in the dry area and the fangs within the wet area. First fill it so that half of the floor is dry and the other half is wet. Keep the angle shallow so the T doesn't have to work to hard to drink.
 
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