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Scolopendra gigantea "white leg" care sheet Can anyone tell me?

Discussion in 'Myriapods' started by Jaewan, Feb 4, 2018.

  1. Jaewan

    Jaewan Arachnopeon

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    Can anyone tell me if I need the exact caresheet of scolopendra Gigantea "white leg"?
     
  2. pirminiamac

    pirminiamac Arachnosquire Active Member

    I don't think so? The care is pretty much identical across the sp, I'd probably do a lil research on the locality if possible just for a rough idea on humidity+temps as well as enclosure design, especially if it's WC, if not I'd worry even less
     
  3. LawnShrimp

    LawnShrimp Arachnodemon Active Member

    Care is similar to most centipedes from what I've seen: feed once a week or less, room temperature, 3-4" substrate, decent humidity, water dish. You can keep the top layer of substrate fairly dry as S. gigantea are from grassy areas and do not need extremely high humidity.
     
  4. Scoly

    Scoly Arachnoknight Active Member

    Well that statement doesn't totally hold seeings as a) we don't quite know what is what in the South American giants and b) two animals that are currently both classified as the same species may inhabit very different habitats.

    As an example, I have a "viridicornis" which most people see as different to a true S. viridicornis so it's Scolopendra sp. "viridicornis" for now. Recently people are starting to call that S. galapagoensis c.f. orange. But S. galapagoensis are collected from lower regions and like to be kept warm but the Scolopendra sp "viridicornis" are actually found higher up (all currently imported from Peru). If these get classified together that leaves one "species" with different temp requirements. What we know as galapagoensis and gigantea both come in different morphs, and live in different places. And now there's talk of the white legs (North Peru/Andes) not being a gigantea at all, although maybe that's just someone trying to kick the hornet's nest.

    I'd assume it's going to have a large enough enclosure to have a heat gradient, and that can be used to determine what temps the pede prefers. Just make sure it has some heat but can escape it too. For humidity my rule of thumb is to have ventilation and air that isn't damp, then provide pretty large hide which will create more humid conditions underneath, you can't really go wrong with that setup.
     
  5. LeFanDesBugs

    LeFanDesBugs Arachnobaron Active Member

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    The only thing we're completely positive about is that the specimens coming from Trinidad, the fabled dark morph, ARE TRUE gigantea. It's the only confirmed locale. Annnnnddd.. we don't have this species here. :(
     
    • Agree Agree x 1
  6. pirminiamac

    pirminiamac Arachnosquire Active Member

    That's very true but your answer also kind of proves my point. The housing advice you gave at the end there (which is spot on btw OP) would apply to both the highland and lowland sp you described, if you are providing a heat gradient the animal will find the temp they are comfortable at, if it is a CB specimen this is even less of an issue as they will most likely already be acclimatised to conditions which aren't exactly replicating the natural habitat.

    As you put so well yourself, you can't go wrong with that set up, we don't need to go into specific numbers otherwise you would have quoted specific humidity and temp in your advice. All Scolopendra need humidity and would like a heat gradient to self regulate(room temp isn't going to kill it btw),,better to keep it simple IMO especially for noobs:happy:
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2018 at 5:28 PM
  7. Scoly

    Scoly Arachnoknight Active Member

    Yeah this is all fine in an enclosure large enough to create a gradient. Many of my tubs are in a heated cabinet, and I know that if I keep pedes that are in the cabinet outside, or vice versa, I'll get issues.

    But where's @CHLee? He has white legs and should be able to tell you.
     
  8. pirminiamac

    pirminiamac Arachnosquire Active Member

    I think that's more to do with acclimatisation than local of specific sp, your tubs in the cabinet are warmer, suddenly removing them to room temp is bound to cause notable effects. I'm willing to bet if you gradually reduced to room temp all your Pedes would do just fine.

    Looks like the temp issue came up fairly recently

    http://arachnoboards.com/threads/scolopendra-hainanum-temperature.298700/
     
  9. Scoly

    Scoly Arachnoknight Active Member

    Sudden changes in temps aren't a problem. Everywhere in the world experiences a big difference between day & night, and you also get warm and cold spells without much warning. The danger is when a pede that requires lower temperatures doesn't get to cool down often enough, or one that require higher temps doesn't spend enough time at those, same as most ectotherms really.

    Pedes do acclimatise to different surroundings to a certain extent (like not having the same night drop they expect) but that doesn't change their biological needs.

    I've noticed some species, mainly Ethomstigmus stay in premolt for ages at 20-25, but bump up the heat to 23-28 and they all shed within 10 days or less.
    I've sadly killed a couple of pedes by keeping them at over 25 day and night for too long.
    I've also had pede imports on long distance transit in colder months show up all dead bar the largest one or two, despite there being ample moisture.

    For interest, here's someone recently posting a large centipede active at 11C: https://www.facebook.com/photo.php?...&set=gm.1535613986560942&type=3&theater&ifg=1
    I doubt that pede would take well to being kept in a box that's heated to 25C day & night, regardless of how much acclimatisation it gets.

    I think pedes are OK with lower temps than they're used to, but you'll get slower growth, move it higher than they like for too long and some species will kick the bucket.
     
    • Agree Agree x 1