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Questions on Hadrurus arizonensis?

Discussion in 'Scorpions' started by LunarBeats, Sep 8, 2017.

  1. LunarBeats

    LunarBeats Arachnopeon

    I hope this isnt too redundant, but I'm very interested in this particular scorpion and am strongly considering getting one. I just want to ask/confirm a couple questions regarding care:

    1. For substrate, should I use sand or clay? In another post someone suggested excavator clay for a substrate, and I am interested in that idea, but Id just like more opinions.

    2. They are fine at room temperature (70-72F) correct?

    3. I've heard some conflicting opinions regarding humidity. Should I keep everything completely dry or mist part of the enclosure a few times a week?
  2. RTTB

    RTTB Arachnoprince Active Member

    I recommend a sand clay mixture kept bone dry. They do just fine at room temp in the 70's. Have 4-6" of substrate as they can dig long burrows. If you have a small water dish in the corner they will drink from it.
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  3. You can keep it at room temperature. Mist once a week or have a small water dish. You can use sand, excavator clay, mixture, whatever you want.
    Last edited: Sep 8, 2017
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  4. Oroborus

    Oroborus Arachnosquire

    Excavator is great; just make sure you use it with sand in a 1 to 3 mixture otherwise it gets too hard. It's great to watch them tunnel. I keep mine bone dry. I subscribe to the theory that desert species get the majority of their required water from their prey. I offer water once per month for 24 hrs and have had positive results. Cheers.
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  5. Red Eunice

    Red Eunice Arachnolord

    I used a mix of sand and excavator clay, 3:1, kept dry. Too much clay will make it difficult to tunnel in and they love to tunnel, give at least 4" of substrate.
    Each has a water cap and "Yes" I've seen them drinking.
    Mine were a bit over an inch when purchased, each molted successfully twice. I've a piece of cork that ocassionally I put a few drops of water on.
    As far as temps, my invert room stays in the mid/upper 70s. 70 is ok, but these are a desert species and do better at higher temps. IMO/E
    H. arizonensis #2.jpg
    One of my enclosures above.
    Not picky eaters, crickets, roaches or mealies with heads crushed when small. Mine take live, but still crush the worm heads and place near a tunnel opening.
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  6. Scorpionluva

    Scorpionluva Arachnoangel Arachnosupporter

    There are many ways to keep hadrurus in captivity successfully and the reason why there are SO many conflicting methods is simple. Human and environmental variables
    The ambient temps and humidity levels inside each house/room vary alot so some need waterbowls to accomodate the lack of humidity to keep them happy and hydrated.
    Other methods include overmisting 1 side of their tank to keep a little extra moisture around when they need a drink.
    There are also atleast 2 different substrate methods that can work well depending on your enjoyment and how much you want to see your hadrurus.
    1. You can use a mix of 3/1 sand/excavator clay with a depth of 6-7 inches if you want them to burrow alot ( which means you wont get to see them much ) this is how they would be in nature
    2. Shallow substrate (1-2") consisting of sand ,clay , small rocks and seashells used as hides ( seashells hold humidity which helps molting if you get juvenile specimens) this method will allow you to view your hadrurus more often even if this is not how they are found in nature but lets face it - if they are in captivity - theyre not in nature anymore !
    Temps can fluctuate quite a bit with hadrurus and have minimal affect on them especially as adults although youll want higher temps with juveniles to help promote better molts
    I used a 3 season cycle with mine.
    3 months winter ( 60-70° with light humidity)
    4 months of spring ( 75-85° with moderate - high humidity)
    5 months of summer (85-100° with moderate humidity)
    I used the shallow substrate method as i enjoyed watching this specie more than any other specie out there. Truly a fun energetic scorpion with lots of crazy poses and behavior
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  7. darkness975

    darkness975 Dream Reaper Arachnosupporter

    The Sand/Excavator clay is your best combination for substrate for this species.
    My specimens live at room temperature (mid to high 70s day and night in Summer, Low 70s during day and mid to low 60s at night in winter) and they have been living this way for years. I just wish it didn't drop to the 60s (for my own sake) but that is a topic for another thread.

    I give them a small water dish, I have seen all of mine drink from it so you should provide one for them.

    I have several of the "normal" and "pallidus" color morphs of this species.

    Mine enter a "diapause" period in the Winter. They disappear in late October / early November and do not resurface again until late March / early April of the following year. They eat if I feed them, but they do not actively come out and hunt, nor do they dig or do much of anything. They seem to enter a type of suspended animation, if you will.
    I mention this so that if yours does do this that you are not 100% alarmed at the behavior.

    Good luck, friend!
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  8. keks

    keks Arachnobaron Active Member

    I researched for this scorpion on German speaking boards. The most postings are older ones, maybe five to ten years old. They said, that this scorpion is very hard to raise because they die mostly during the molt. Also breeding is almost impossible because of dying scorplings.
    Is this still like that? Or changed something in the last years?
    I couldn't find anything currently :wacky:.
  9. These are better bought as adults because of the molting issues they can have. Keep them with available water and a place to burrow. Anywhere from 72f-88f is pretty acceptable, where the they live the temp can get down to the 20s at night in winter and summer day time highs of 122f. Let me know if you need any I have some nice adults available right now.
  10. RTTB

    RTTB Arachnoprince Active Member

    Room temperature is perfectly fine for them.
  11. darkness975

    darkness975 Dream Reaper Arachnosupporter

    Ja, leider ist das trotzdem wahr. Du sollst H. arizonensis als Erwachsene kaufen.

    Everything else about this species is spot on in my opinion. Good appetites, live in mild temperatures without the need of supplemental heating unless it gets really cold, decent size (not a fan of really small scorpions), etc. But that molting issue is quite a large factor. There have been some on the Boards here that have experimented with re-creating natural environments with false bottom set ups and the like to aid in molting. See if you can find some of those posts. They were pretty interesting, although I have not tried the methods myself.

    I wish more species got to Pandinus or Heterometrus size. I like the fairly large size of most Tarantulas (even the "smaller" ones like G. porteri or B. hamorii) but on average many Scorpion species are significantly smaller.
  12. RTTB

    RTTB Arachnoprince Active Member

    Try an Anuroctonus pococki. They get good sized, great coloration,etc. A really neat US native.
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  13. Walker253

    Walker253 Arachnobaron

    What about keeping them communally? Any tips? Or is it a futile effort?
  14. RTTB

    RTTB Arachnoprince Active Member

    They are not communal. They will become expensive snacks for each other. You can keep Blue Death Feigning Beetles with them as they do co exist in the wild together.
  15. Walker253

    Walker253 Arachnobaron

    I only ask because I had a friend that had 3 together until he sold them with no issue. So they are like Hysterocrates gigas tarantulas. They are communal until they aren't?
    I'm still pretty new to scorps
  16. soldierof4cheese

    soldierof4cheese Arachnoknight

  17. RTTB

    RTTB Arachnoprince Active Member

    If you kept them in a huge enclosure like 50 gal or so then maybe by why take the chance.
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  18. keks

    keks Arachnobaron Active Member

    Vielen Dank!
    That means you only can get WC, that's sad. H. arizonensis would be a perfect scorpion. I hope that someone will succeed although ....
    The size is not THAT criterium to me, I keep Euscorpius :hilarious:. But H. arizonensis are interesting scorpions ^^.
    Last edited: Sep 15, 2017
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  19. Scorpionluva

    Scorpionluva Arachnoangel Arachnosupporter

    Contrary to most opinions on this - i personally kept several colonies of hadrurus communally for years with minimal casulties. I really wished i would have documented all my work with this specie but at the time i didnt think anything of it as they all seemed to get along together and produced offspring with no issues with only threat poses in most cases. ( the only pics i got of my setups were polaroids and most are too hard to scan and clearly see everything) The odd part is the only acts of cannibalism i saw was between siblings after a fresh molt. I never saw an adult eat a juvenile or baby for that matter.
    After reading all the issues people have had with molts and producing offspring - i had to keep asking myself .... what the heck did i do so right to keep them producing and living together ????
    I quit keeping this specie about 6 years ago when it cost me alot more money to raise them up than i could sell them for. I sold them to a few vendors at the local reptile shows and a few local pet stores but when they kept asking for lower pricing on them due to other suppliers selling WC adults for $10-12 range - i couldnt compete with those prices and quit keeping hadrurus to move onto other species i had interest in. 20170906_093753.jpg
  20. keks

    keks Arachnobaron Active Member

    It's a shame that people don't want to pay more money for CB animals and prefer WC because they are cheaper :(. I always prefer CB if possible, and I have no problem to pay more for them. Breeder have a lot of work with raising this little guys, that has to be honored.
    WC are good for starting to breed a species, and to refresh the gene pool. It shouldn't become usual. My thoughts.