Pink Zebra Tarantula

[missmis]

We have a Pink Zebra Tarantula who is about a year old. We got her around 4 months old and she had a healthy appetite and molted within 2 months. For the past several months, her abdomen has continued to shrink and she now has a large balding spot. I haven't noticed any marks or other abnormalities on her. We initially thought another molt but I think something is wrong. We have a 10 gallon aquarium, use a black heat lamp keeping the temperature around 76-78 degrees. She has a small water pond as well and some small shelters. We have used several different kinds of bedding to eliminate environmental issues. We feed her crickets and she does not have a huge appetite but will eat a few a month (much less than when I first got her). I am seriously worried ahout her as she is getting very small and I am not sure what I am doing wrong! Any suggestions as to how to improve her health or what I am doing wrong? I am not an expert and this is my first Tarantula so any help is much appreciated!

Here are 2 pics healthy, 2 pics with issues and her environment.

 

[missmis]

We have a Pink Zebra Tarantula who is about a year old. We got her around 4 months old and she had a healthy appetite and molted within 2 months. For the past several months, her abdomen has continued to shrink and she now has a large balding spot. I haven't noticed any marks or other abnormalities on her. We initially thought another molt but I think something is wrong. We have a 10 gallon aquarium, use a black heat lamp keeping the temperature around 76-78 degrees. She has a small water pond as well and some small shelters. We have used several different kinds of bedding to eliminate environmental issues. We feed her crickets and she does not have a huge appetite but will eat a few a month (much less than when I first got her). I am seriously worried ahout her as she is getting very small and I am not sure what I am doing wrong! Any suggestions as to how to improve her health or what I am doing wrong? I am not an expert and this is my first Tarantula so any help is much appreciated!

Here are 2 pics healthy, 2 pics with issues and her environment.

 

[DVMT]

I'm no expert but I don't think heat lamps are typically used for T's.....I could be wrong. Also, just make sure Cedar substrate isn't being used. Usually the Eco-earth soil type stuff is good for almost all T's. I'm kind of a noob, but this may help. She also might be in premolt, not sure the habits of that species. Also, that wood you have there, was it baked and disinfected? If it was pulled from outside, it might have mold or something on it which could explain the bald spot unless she has been kicking hairs. Do you have pets that sniff around her enclosure she may be urticating at? Is she a nervous spider? How often do you handle her?

Also, her abdomen doesn't look too small in the last 2 pics that I can tell. Maybe she was just too big before and is refusing food now. My rosea binges for a couple months then doesnt eat seemingly forever, like 7-8 months at a time. How often did she eat before all of this started?

Also, one last thing I thought of. How is her humidity level? Find out what humidity level she needs and get a gauge to moniter this (I dont see one, just a t-stat in there) Do you frequently mist the cage once or twice a week? She could be drying up and losing hair that way too especially with a heat lamp.

 

[jen650s]

Her abdomen does not look unusually small, but it most certainly is bald!

Let's start with her enclosure. Her substrate should be something like peat moss or coco coir (the ground kind not the chips), don't ever use wood chips for any reason. Many types of wood have natural insecticides in them that can be harmful to all invertebrates. The substrate should be compacted enough to allow for burrowing; should that be what she decides to do, not loose and fluffy which makes walking difficult. It should come to within 1.5X her leg span of the top of the enclosure so that if she decides to climb she cannot fall far enough to rupture her abdomen. I usually try to set my enclosures up so that my terrestrials can just about touch the top of the enclosure from bottom. If she continues to show a propensity for climbing on the ceiling, change the lid. Many a T owner has found to their dismay that their T has gotten its claws stuck in a mesh top and lost a leg. I do use screen lids on a number of my enclosures, but will change to sheet acrylic if I have a roof sitter because of this. You can buy acrylic in sheets and cut it to fit inexpensively at either Lowes or Home Depot. Next, no heat lamp! They are great for reptiles which need to bask, but not for Ts. They dry them out and can be detrimental to their well being.

Next, her not eating is not necessarily worrisome. I have had Ts go more than a year without eating with no apparent ill effects. However, looking at her enclosure, environmental stress might be part of the problem. If you were on bedding that you found uncomfortable to walk on, might be toxic to you and you had to hang from the ceiling to get away from it would you be inclined to eat? Me either!

Fix her enclosure, give her a week or two to settle in and try feeding her again.

Hope this helps,
Jennifer

 

[SamuraiSid]

First, change your substrate!!! Peat moss and coco coir are popular, cheap and proven. Woodchips are a bad choice due to the number of tree species which are naturally insecticidal. If you keep your substrate on the dryer side it will help minimize mold issues. Also, mold aint that big a deal to yur T anyway.

The bald spot is normal. the T has urticating bristles (think fibreglass) that they can shoot into the air to deter large predators, and they also place it around there dens for much the same reason.

 

[jen650s]

I'm no expert but I don't think heat lamps are typically used for T's.....I could be wrong. Also, just make sure Cedar substrate isn't being used. Usually the Eco-earth soil type stuff is good for almost all T's. I'm kind of a noob, but this may help. She also might be in premolt, not sure the habits of that species. Also, that wood you have there, was it baked and disinfected? If it was pulled from outside, it might have mold or something on it which could explain the bald spot unless she has been kicking hairs. Do you have pets that sniff around her enclosure she may be urticating at? Is she a nervous spider? How often do you handle her?

Also, her abdomen doesn't look too small in the last 2 pics that I can tell. Maybe she was just too big before and is refusing food now. My rosea binges for a couple months then doesnt eat seemingly forever, like 7-8 months at a time. How often did she eat before all of this started?

Also, one last thing I thought of. How is her humidity level? Find out what humidity level she needs and get a gauge to moniter this (I dont see one, just a t-stat in there) Do you frequently mist the cage once or twice a week? She could be drying up and losing hair that way too especially with a heat lamp.

No humidity gauge is needed, they are famously unreliable and make you worry needlessly. No misting! it just annoys the T and provides no real benefit, especially with a screen top. She is not ready (or apparently anywhere near ready) to molt, her abdomen will darken significantly before she does. And heat lamps are indeed a bad choice in general for Ts for a whole variety of reasons including: they dry them out too much, the can overheat the T as Ts will move toward heat even if it is warm enough to kill them in many instances, and they are just not needed and cost money to run. If you are comfortable your T is comfortable (even if you need a light sweater to be comfortable).

 

[concrete]

Here's a few suggestions to get you started:

Start from scratch with your enclosure. It's a bit big for your spider but you can make it work. Fill it at least half way full with slightly dampened peat moss to reduce the height and risk of injury from a fall. Provide a large, shallow water dish and let the substrate dry out. You don't need to mist as long as the dish is always full. Remove all that stuff you have in there and provide a simple hide. Get rid of the heat lamp. As long as your house is not freezing, your spider will be fine at room temperature. Once you have your spider settled in, leave it alone. It looks like it might be in premolt. You can still offer food once a week but make sure that you remove it if it doesn't show interest. Other then that, relax and enjoy it

 

[toast4nat]

Ok, a couple things, and please don't take this as me being a douche or whatever, I'm just trying to inform you so your T can be happier and healthier in the future.

First, wood chips are not a good choice of substrate for a tarantula, it is difficult for them to burrow in it and there's a chance they might ingest it and it can injure them, so I suggest using eco-earth or peat moss, which is both softer and better suited for them. And you need A LOT more of it. Like at least fill the aquarium up half way to prevent any chance of injury from a fall.

Second that T is not a year old, E. campestratus are relatively slow growers, if had to hazzard a guess, I'd say it's around 4-5 years old.

Third, ditch the heat lamp, you don't need it.

Fourth, ditch all the crap you have in there, the boxes and the wood and stuff, they don't need that and serves only as a potential source of injury. A simple clay flower pot or piece of cork bark is sufficient for a hide.

Fifth, and this is a complete guess, but from the photos it almost looks like your T is a mature male. I would ask that you take some clearer photos of the pedipalps and front sets of legs, or a ventral shot so we can be sure. If it is a mature male, it might be near the end of its life.

Sixth, yes, it is in premolt, but not heavy premolt. It is not uncommon for the abdomen to shrink or grow before molting and fasting is also normal.

If you want an example of a good set up for an E. campestratus, look at mine:




Just a simple plastic shoe box with a flower pot hide, eco-earth and a small water dish, the leaves are for decoration only.

 

[MarkmD]

I agree, start a completely new setup, use coco-fiber substrate, smaller hight for enclosure, get rid of the woodchip and heat lamp, provide a hide with a medium sized water dish(fresh water), if you need heat then use a ceramic/fan heater or heat-mat on the side, as said feed in a week after the new setup.

Good luck, let us know how you get on.

 

[captmarga]

Hi - I second that "she" is probably a "he". I can't see the palps in any of the photos, but the long-legged aspect, and the fact that you say it was a baby when you got it point towards male (are you certain it was 4 months old when you got it? At that size it would have barely covered a dime).

I am going to flat out say the substrate is part of the problem. I personally am allergic to the wood shavings, and I'd not keep a T on them. Coco coir fiber, the brick kind, or loose if you can find it, is actually perfect.

If this is indeed a male, that accounts for much of the behaviour - being somewhat "thin" (as opposed to the very-fat most of us keep our Ts at), the nervousness, the climbing.

Don't use the heat lamp, change his sub, and take a good long look at his palps, and if at all possible, retrieve that last molt and see if it says "boy" or "girl" by comparing (find the "sexing threads).

We all start somewhere... please don't take any of this as harsh criticism.

Good luck!

Marga

 

[Zeph]

I'm probably just dittoing what's been said before:

- She looks like she's trying to escape, so she possibly hasn't made this tank her "home". (are you sure it's a "she", btw? a mature male may be trying to escape to find a mate)
- Change the substrate!!! Use coco fiber, you can usually get one brick (expands in water) for $3-5, it looks like this: http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Compr...TF8&qid=1352326673&sr=8-2&keywords=coco+fiber
- I would use a smaller tank, 2.5 gallons ($13 at Petco) or a large Kritter Keeper (similar price) should suffice.
- If you don't decide to go with a smaller tank, make this one more "cozy" with large cork bark, such as a piece of cork bark round. Cork bark is the safest option and resists mold: http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-Natur...UTF8&qid=1352326852&sr=1-4&keywords=cork+bark
- I assume you're providing a clean water dish, but keeping the tank and substrate dry?
- She needs more substrate, she the distance between the substrate and the lid of the tank should only be her body length.
- Add lots of obstacles so that she can attach webbing and "map" her enclosure, I would suggest pieces of cork bark and fake plants
- Ditch the light, go for an under-tank heater (but put it on the side of the tank, not below) if the room really is too cold
- Try changing up the food, I would offer a superworm or try to get a hold of some feeder roaches. Also try maiming the crickets.

The main issue I'm seeing is the substrate, though. Best of luck!!! I loved my Pink zebra tarantula but I was such a novice when I had her, I kept her on newspaper with a sponge in her water dish and she didn't eat for an entire year before I gave her away for free. That was six years ago, I wish I could have her back. I'm glad I'm more knowledgable now!

 

[Storm76]

Why is every new post just repeating what has been said before? I'll just stick with agreeing to what Jen (and the others) said. Now let's wait for an answer from the OP first...

 

[advan]

(are you sure it's a "she", btw? a mature male may be trying to escape to find a mate)

My thoughts exactly. Can you get a picture of the palps missmis?

 

[catfishrod69]

I was thinking this also. She, really looks like a mature male.

My thoughts exactly. Can you get a picture of the palps missmis?

 

[Storm76]

My thoughts exactly. Can you get a picture of the palps missmis?

I was thinking this also. She, really looks like a mature male.

After you mentioning that, check the 3rd pic - am I blind or do I see hooks there quite easily?

 

[jen650s]

After you mentioning that, check the 3rd pic - am I blind or do I see hooks there quite easily?

Nope, you are not blind. I think I see them as well. I wasn't looking for them this morning, just going with the given information...

 

[sugarsandz]

I'm just curious but from some of your photos I see ceiling tiles like those found in schools or businesses. Do you keep it in a heavy foot traffic area or in area open to the public? Just wondering because my B. smithi lifts to kick hairs(she hasn't yet) when there is a lot of movement and vibrations near the tank(which is very rare). Oh also I have my G. rosea in a 10 gal tank similar to yours and I use 3 bags of the loose eco-earth to get her close to the lid so she won't fall far if she decides to climb, it's like $9.00 a bag here so I spent $30ish but when you think of how long it lasts if you keep it clean then it's well worth it. I know the brick eco-earth is way cheaper, I just make a huge mess with it like everything else I do!

 

[Stan Schultz]

... I am not an expert and this is my first Tarantula so any help is much appreciated!

Here are 2 pics healthy, 2 pics with issues and her environment.

I've not the time to do my usual newbie intro. Sorry.

1) Way too much room between the substrate and the top of the cage. The space between the substrate and the cage top should be about 1.5 X DLS. (DLS = Diagonal Leg Span, the distance from the tip of one front leg to the tip of the rear leg on the opposite side when the tarantula is in a normal resting pose.

2) BAD substrate. Read Substrate.

3) Temperature is seldom an issue with tarantulas. No need for heaters or thermometers. Read Temperature.

4) Humidity is seldom an issue with tarantulas. No need for a humidity gauge, the tarantula will tell you when it needs humidity. Read Relative Humidity.

5) Read Stan's Rant. Especially, read the books!

6) For the record, your pink zebra tarantula normally goes by the scientific name of Eupalaestrus campestratus. It comes from the drier regions of Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina. It's cared for as an arid species.

7) I can't see the tarantula clearly enough to tell for sure, but it looks like an adult male. Can you supply well focused, closeup photos from its front, left, and right sides?


Enjoy your little 8-legged PZB!

 

[Mattyb]

I've not the time to do my usual newbie intro. Sorry.

1) Way too much room between the substrate and the top of the cage. The space between the substrate and the cage top should be about 1.5 X DLS. (DLS = Diagonal Leg Span, the distance from the tip of one front leg to the tip of the rear leg on the opposite side when the tarantula is in a normal resting pose.

2) BAD substrate. Read Substrate.

3) Temperature is seldom an issue with tarantulas. No need for heaters or thermometers. Read Temperature.

4) Humidity is seldom an issue with tarantulas. No need for a humidity gauge, the tarantula will tell you when it needs humidity. Read Relative Humidity.

5) Read Stan's Rant. Especially, read the books!

6) For the record, your pink zebra tarantula normally goes by the scientific name of Eupalaestrus campestratus. It comes from the drier regions of Brazil, Paraguay, and Argentina. It's cared for as an arid species.

7) I can't see the tarantula clearly enough to tell for sure, but it looks like an adult male. Can you supply well focused, closeup photos from its front, left, and right sides?


Enjoy your little 8-legged PZB!

Its about time someone gives good advice! Been seeing a lot bad advice on here lately.

 

[JZC]

your going to want to get rid of the wood chips, use something like coco fiber. maybe give her a little more humidity