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- Jan 19, 2014
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Just wondering, is the care for the Xenethis species pretty much the same as the Pamphos?
Yes, it is.
Just wondering, is the care for the Xenethis species pretty much the same as the Pamphos?
Just wondering, is the care for the Xenethis species pretty much the same as the Pamphos?
Alright thanks one of my long term goals is to get a Xenethis species and I was just a bit curious.
Yup they are on my wish list.Save your money, they've always been rare and expensive.
shawno821;2421399I keep the front third of the cage moist and use a water bowl...They spend nearly all their time on the moist end.[/QUOTE said:Why not keep most of the cage moist?
I already use quite a bit of water to keep the front third damp,and don't forget,my T's are in a room kept near their preferred humidity range.I wouldn't want to dump 3 gals.or so a day toWhy not keep most of the cage moist?
I promise I don't follow you around (purposely) from post to post--I searched for "Pamphobeteus care," found this thread, and here you are. Full disclosure, I've come to respect your knowledge and advice above all here on AB, but if I'm becoming a nuisance let me know and I'll find a way to ask you EVEN MORE questions. Just joking.P. antininous is the bolivian steely blue....one of the pamphs with the most attitude. With as fast as they grow and as much of a joy it is to rasise them, I would strongly suggest getting slings....you could get a few, or at least 2 shipped, for $150.
As for humidity, I feel like I say this 3 times a day, but beware anyone or any care sheet that tells you that any t requires a number specific humidity to be maintained....beware of care-sheets altogether actually. This kind of info simply over-complicates things all around. Keep a decent sized water dish full and keep the sub moist (not wet), only letting it dry completely for short periods of time as they are prone to dehydration...while you will hear of many keeping them bone dry, its certainly not what I would suggest for either of the genus's you mentioned.
Probably two of the hungriest genus's you will ever come across....prey barely has a chance to hit the ground.
The males may be more colorful, but keep in mind that this is ONLY after they mature, prior to maturity the male will look basically the same. Once they get that amazing color, you'll probably be packing him to send to a female.
Annoyance??? Hey dude, that's what the forum is here for...people asking questions are hardly an annoyance....that's left to the argumentative people.A few questions: I get that handling the more docile T's is a hotly debated topic, and of all mine, I really only feel comfortable handling my B. albopilosum and B. smithi (rarely with the latter-it's more skittish than what appears to be average, but it's a juvie, so maybe that has something to do with it). Where do you stand on the debate? Just curious, as I'm on the fence about it myself.
Also, how do you address the issue with water dishes when some spp. insist on burrowing underneath them? Do you use the glue-it-to-the-wall method, or make sure it's sitting on the bottom of the enclosure so the T can make sure and bury it in sub? And last question: what do you use to fill water dishes/dampen sub when you're dealing with a flighty sp.? The irminia we've talked about is taking to her taller, narrower home nicely I think, but she hasn't discovered her cork bark tube yet so clings to the side. So it's probably more stressful on both the T and myself when I'm using a turkey baster w/plastic-tipped syringe, lid off the enclosure, during refills & sub dampening. She hasn't made a break for it yet but I don't want to assume she never will.
If I do indeed ask for too much advice, let me know, but my rationale here is that you seem to genuinely care for T's and their well-being when being kept by hobbyists, so I hope that overrides any annoyance you may feel from incessant questioning by an inquisitive intermediate such as myself.
Have a good one, brother.
This is exactly why I come to you for advice! And while I have to say I've seen one or two elitists on AB that seem more about stroking their egos than answering questions, for the most part people here seem to concur with you that this forum is a place for asking questions and starting discussions. Glad you feel that way.Annoyance??? Hey dude, that's what the forum is here for...people asking questions are hardly an annoyance....that's left to the argumentative people.
I don't handle...ever. I treat ts like I did the fish I kept....and just like those fish, there's NO benefit to handling these animals either....in fact I'd probably be more inclined to handle one of the fish. Now an inadvertent t walking across you or onto you when re-housing or packing ts is NOT what I consider handling, that's going to happen from time to time if you have enough ts. But I never ever open an enclosure with the notion of getting the t onto me....never.
When a dish gets buried I simply pull it out and clean and re-fill it. If its buried good, I simply add another water dish. Often when I re-house I excavate a half dozen to a dozen water dishes. I've never glued a water dish anywhere, doing so makes removing and cleaning impossible. People that do this often stack condiment cups so the top one can easily be removed....but I don't do this...I just see it as added work for the keeper without any real benefit to the animal...I'm not trying to increase my workload. I never glue anything in place.
People, especially those new to the hobby, typically worry too much about "stress", this isn't really something I ever even think about.....handling is probably the only stressor I'd really worry about, and I don't do that.
When I fill dishes, my methods vary depending on the enclosure. Some I fill with a syringe, others I fill with a spray bottle, but with adults, I just pour water in....when sub gets too dry, I also pour water directly onto the substrate until I get the desired amount/effect. A baster should work just fine.
Adding to the "stress" and handling...I go a step further, I ventilate by drilling holes (I use sterilite), because of this, I can feed and water most of the time without even opening cages, I just go right through the nearest vent holes.....no spooking the t this way and I can observe a more natural acting tarantula....which generally means more food aggressive.